Just that I don't feel like getting my nutz tightened at the same time (that's what it feels like paying those way overpriced "dealer" fees).Kanine21 said:All you need to do this is a 3/8" drive torque wrench, a socket for the bolts (I think it's a 14mm, can't remember).
Jack the rear end up, put on jackstands, yank e-brake so the drive shaft won't spin, then go around and tighten each bolt, only four to tighten on the flange. If you having a hard time reaching the other bolts, pop the e-brake loose and spin the wheels till the drive shaft lines up so you can get to the other bolt(s).
The drive shaft flange is connected to the front of the differential.
Do the same for the middle joint if possible.
If you have no idea where this stuff is on your car, Eminence is right, just take it in and have them do it.
digger08 said:Here is what I can find you...someone else maybe can comment further.
The intermediate "sub-shaft assembly" connects to a "center support bearing"
Into this is connected a "universal joint flange" and this connects to the "propeller shaft"
The Propeller shaft connects to the Universal joint flange by 4 bolts. These bolts are tightened to 74 nm or 54 ft lbs.
If this is what you are referring to in your posted description, then this is you answer
In actuality, these bolts are supposed to be checked every 5k miles, but I don't know anyone that does. A shop may be able to check and torque them, but a place that simply does oil changes probably won't. Wherever you take it to get those bolts checked, make sure to give them the tightening specs. Flange bolts are tightened to 54 ft/lbs while the center support bearing is tightened to 36 ft/lbs.Sorry to bring this back from the dead but i was wondering about this as well. Rather than starting a new thread i thought i would just ask here.
My car clunks on acceleration at speed and at a standstill. My car has about 212k miles on it and the previous owner didnt give a crap about the car at all. If i bring the car in for an oil change would i be able to get away with the driveline flange bolt re torque?
Any shop can do this or you can buy a 1/2" drive torque wrench at Harbor Freight for like $25-$30(think one of mine was like $20). No need to pay premium labor rates to check a few bolts. Shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa will always have a slight clunk because there has to be some clearences and there are a number of joints, but the best you can do is verify the bolts are within spec. The driveshaft is like a three piece deal, with the intermediate shaft in the middle. Mine has always made a slight clunk from day one(new) but has also never gotten worse. I've only checked it at 15k miles and I'm at 51k now.I was thinking of bringing it to a lexus dealership. The car is an auto by the way. Has re-torquing the bolts actually helped anyone with drive line clunking noises?
So you think by torquing them down it may fix it? I wasn't sure if that part moved up and down because it was bad or loose. I wasn't under the car so I was only checking to see where my noise may be from. Honestly I didn't read the thread just the re-torque the flange bolts parts... Next week I'll have a chance to check if they are tight. Do these get stripped a lot or should I just do it and not worry...?Needs to be fixed. This isn't what this topic is discussing I don't think but, this does need to be torqued back down. Usually I use a hammer and hammer the allen head wrench in so, it bottoms out before I torque.
I've discovered on my own diff that these seem to need a re-torquing. Probably need to tighten, drive some, then re-tighten to get the proper torque.