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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What the heck does that mean???

It's to be done during all of our scheduled mainetance services. What happends if it's not done? I have 62K miles on my car and have never had it done. How importance is it to do this?
 

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Occasionally, these bolts can start to walk loose. More frequently, I've seen it on hard-driven sports cars. Thus, IS's are a candidate. If bolts start to loosen you will usually begin to hear the driveshaft slop before they completely come apart. However, since you sit right above and next to the driveshaft tunnel, you'll want to make sure ithey're properly torqued because that's not a good place to be when a fast-spinning driveshaft snaps loose. Once under the car, it's a 2 minute procedure.
 

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i never done this before either,and have always seen it on the manual..can some one post a picture of this please.

i ride my car hard sometimes about 120-130 on i-287 :shame:

i have no idea what it looks like. i guess i have to tight 'n it realgod then. pic please
 

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Take it easy on yourself, and just bring it to the dealership for maintence. I believe, if i read the manual right, its apart of the maintenance procedure.
 

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All you need to do this is a 3/8" drive torque wrench, a socket for the bolts (I think it's a 14mm, can't remember).

Jack the rear end up, put on jackstands, yank e-brake so the drive shaft won't spin, then go around and tighten each bolt, only four to tighten on the flange. If you having a hard time reaching the other bolts, pop the e-brake loose and spin the wheels till the drive shaft lines up so you can get to the other bolt(s).

The drive shaft flange is connected to the front of the differential.
Do the same for the middle joint if possible.

If you have no idea where this stuff is on your car, Eminence is right, just take it in and have them do it.

Kane
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Kanine21 said:
All you need to do this is a 3/8" drive torque wrench, a socket for the bolts (I think it's a 14mm, can't remember).

Jack the rear end up, put on jackstands, yank e-brake so the drive shaft won't spin, then go around and tighten each bolt, only four to tighten on the flange. If you having a hard time reaching the other bolts, pop the e-brake loose and spin the wheels till the drive shaft lines up so you can get to the other bolt(s).

The drive shaft flange is connected to the front of the differential.
Do the same for the middle joint if possible.

If you have no idea where this stuff is on your car, Eminence is right, just take it in and have them do it.

Kane
Just that I don't feel like getting my nutz tightened at the same time (that's what it feels like paying those way overpriced "dealer" fees).

I just wanted to know exactly what it is. I thought if it's not done, then the car might feel like it's driving loose or vibrating. What do I know??
 

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Here is what I can find you...someone else maybe can comment further.

The intermediate "sub-shaft assembly" connects to a "center support bearing"

Into this is connected a "universal joint flange" and this connects to the "propeller shaft"

The Propeller shaft connects to the Universal joint flange by 4 bolts. These bolts are tightened to 74 nm or 54 ft lbs.

If this is what you are referring to in your posted description, then this is you answer

Digger08
 

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digger08 said:
Here is what I can find you...someone else maybe can comment further.

The intermediate "sub-shaft assembly" connects to a "center support bearing"

Into this is connected a "universal joint flange" and this connects to the "propeller shaft"

The Propeller shaft connects to the Universal joint flange by 4 bolts. These bolts are tightened to 74 nm or 54 ft lbs.

If this is what you are referring to in your posted description, then this is you answer

Digger08

cool info dude. I'll do this maintenace during this weekend...

If you have a digital camera, can you take pics...?
 

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get under your car and look its not that difficult...


then again, my car is sittin on jack stands so ill take a pic tomorrow if i remember
 

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Its pretty self explanatory actually. You retorque the bolts on the driveshaft flanges. I've done it once on mine for good measure.
 

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Sorry to bring this back from the dead but i was wondering about this as well. Rather than starting a new thread i thought i would just ask here.

My car clunks on acceleration at speed and at a standstill. My car has about 212k miles on it and the previous owner didnt give a shit about the car at all. If i bring the car in for an oil change would i be able to get away with the driveline flange bolt re torque?
 

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Sorry to bring this back from the dead but i was wondering about this as well. Rather than starting a new thread i thought i would just ask here.

My car clunks on acceleration at speed and at a standstill. My car has about 212k miles on it and the previous owner didnt give a crap about the car at all. If i bring the car in for an oil change would i be able to get away with the driveline flange bolt re torque?
In actuality, these bolts are supposed to be checked every 5k miles, but I don't know anyone that does. A shop may be able to check and torque them, but a place that simply does oil changes probably won't. Wherever you take it to get those bolts checked, make sure to give them the tightening specs. Flange bolts are tightened to 54 ft/lbs while the center support bearing is tightened to 36 ft/lbs.
 

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I was thinking of bringing it to a lexus dealership. The car is an auto by the way. Has re-torquing the bolts actually helped anyone with drive line clunking noises?
 

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I was thinking of bringing it to a lexus dealership. The car is an auto by the way. Has re-torquing the bolts actually helped anyone with drive line clunking noises?
Any shop can do this or you can buy a 1/2" drive torque wrench at Harbor Freight for like $25-$30(think one of mine was like $20). No need to pay premium labor rates to check a few bolts. Shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa will always have a slight clunk because there has to be some clearences and there are a number of joints, but the best you can do is verify the bolts are within spec. The driveshaft is like a three piece deal, with the intermediate shaft in the middle. Mine has always made a slight clunk from day one(new) but has also never gotten worse. I've only checked it at 15k miles and I'm at 51k now.
 

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I have some noise in the rear of my car and can't seem to find it. It's on my Pass side. Some sort of knock. When I press up on my half shaft on the pass side it moves. Basically the red thing in the picture moves up and down when I pry on it. Is it normal? I've never had those bolts torqued as mine are super rusty and im afraid they will strip. The shaft moves in and out which i believe is normal but should that be fairly quiet to when i do that? thanks
 

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^Isn't that the end that has the hex head bolts and U washers towards the diff? Shown as 42330 in this link? I've heard of those bolts come loose but not sure if it should flex. If I get a chance I'll check mine, unless someone that knows chimes in. I know the CV half-shaft/CV axle shaft should obviously move.2005 IS300: OEM Powertrain & Chassis (REAR AXLE SHAFT & HUB) Replacement Parts
 

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Needs to be fixed. This isn't what this topic is discussing I don't think but, this does need to be torqued back down. Usually I use a hammer and hammer the allen head wrench in so, it bottoms out before I torque.

I've discovered on my own diff that these seem to need a re-torquing. Probably need to tighten, drive some, then re-tighten to get the proper torque.

They'd have to be damn loose to let that end move around. You really ought not drive it till it's fixed.
 

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Needs to be fixed. This isn't what this topic is discussing I don't think but, this does need to be torqued back down. Usually I use a hammer and hammer the allen head wrench in so, it bottoms out before I torque.

I've discovered on my own diff that these seem to need a re-torquing. Probably need to tighten, drive some, then re-tighten to get the proper torque.
So you think by torquing them down it may fix it? I wasn't sure if that part moved up and down because it was bad or loose. I wasn't under the car so I was only checking to see where my noise may be from. Honestly I didn't read the thread just the re-torque the flange bolts parts... Next week I'll have a chance to check if they are tight. Do these get stripped a lot or should I just do it and not worry...?
 
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