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This is the OEM part, which does the job of cooling the engine just fine, and has proven to last about 15 years.

The mishimoto aluminum radiator is a nice piece, but really not necessary; and at ~2.5x the price - it's hard to make a business case for it.

That said, my turbo car has the mishimoto, and my stock IS just got a new Denso (top tank cracked).
 

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Hodgdon, do you have an aftermarket temp gauge in your car? I'm wondering about real time fluctuations, not temperature ranges. Lmk if you do and I'll PM you a recent experience of mine (in the interest of not thread jacking).

Back on topic. I have a koyo in my gte car. Cooling is fine but it is quite a bit thicker than OEM and pulley work gets a little more complicated should you have to do any.
 

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My turbo car has a Haltech ecu that provides an actual temp reading, but the Toyota ecu/gage is still functional as well - so I've been able to kinda make a correlation between the two... I've never seen it get over 205, even when on the dyno where the engine is really putting out and there's not real world airflow to keep it cool. Idling in the summer (95° ambient) with AC off, it dithers between 185 and 200. With AC on, it dithers between 175 and 190.

My stock car just has the OEM gage.
 

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I recently did a flush. On 50/50 prestone green stuff temps would hover around 190 +- 5 degrees. Under engine braking they would decrease a good 10 degrees and during engine lugging they would increase a good 10 degrees.

1. Drained, removed tstat and filled with distilled water and a flush. Temps never broke 160 under any circumstances. Usually at about 150.
2. Refilled with 70/30 water/Toyota red and installed new thermostat. Temps pretty constant at 200. Will go up one or two degrees under engine lugging will go down considerably during engine braking.

All of this on my Defi temp gauge. It’s driving my OCD self crazy….and I mean CRAZY.
After hearing about your background…do you watch formula? It’s a one team season so far.
 
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