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i measured the bellhousing to shift center on a factory tranny ... so i modded the trans to mimic actual factory placement of the shifter, not taking into account the style and bend of the shifter (for the r154)

it should be noted, i am working with a V160.

But, to mimic the factory placement, i feel that this measurement is a little more valid.

Also, it is JUST a 1/2 inch ... barely anthing noticable at all.. And it is possible that the engine could be leaning forward a bit in your pic throwing the measurement off a bit. the block may not be sitting exactly as if the trans was installed with a bracket.

not arguing your measurement, just saying its worth noting.
 

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Blue Devil
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Discussion Starter #122
^^^ yea you might actually be right about the engine maybe sitting a tab bit nudged up or down. plus, you're working with a 6-speed, so you're fine since your shifter is straight up and down, not bend an inch back..
 

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:) Yep that's all i was saying.

My measurement came straight from a factory W55. I was just thinking it should be thrown in a s a reference for those wanting to know.

Thanks for being civil about the constructive criticism ... most people cant handle it now-a-days. Like i said i wasn't trying to start a fight ... just saying that my measurement was factory position (length).
 

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Other than using the soarer external housing and using a dog leg 92 SC shifter and hacking up the car a bit there is also the option of extending the housing in order to get the shifter to line up correctly

The r154 is 2.5 inches shorter than the stock w55 so the housing needs to be extended 2.5 inches



Directions to do this

1. Pull the shifter housing itself off there are 6 metric 12 bolts that hold this down



2. Inside there unbolt the shift lever which is one bolt a 12 if I remember correctly


3. Unbolt your tail of the r154 there are metric 14’s around the outside



4. Make sure you have the bolts all out and use a screw driver to pry the tail off
5. Take the shift lever off
6. The shift lever and housing need to be extended if you cannot find somewhere to do this send me a pm and I will get you the info of the place that did it for me




7. Have the dog leg cut out of your shifter to make it straight



8. Use a oil resistant fpic or gasket maker and put the trans back together with your extended parts on it
9. Let it dry


When mounting the transmission to the car you will use a w55 or w58 transmission mount and the factory is300 bolts and cross member. Make sure to bolt the slave cylinder on the transmission before installing it is hard to get to the top bolt once it is installed.

From either crawler or driftmotion order the two bushings for the r154 shifter
The cup bushing should slide right on like stock but because of the material of the other mine did not want to go in. What I did to fix this is where they had taken off material on both sides for the dowel pins I dremeled about 1/8 of an inch off going both in the same direction. After this it slid right in

Benefits of doing it this way
1. No hacking up the car for room for the shifter
2. No need for spacers or longer trans mount bolts
3. No sloppy shifter mine is nice and tight like the stock w55
4. Shifter sits in a good positing with a nice throw and is directly in the center of the shifter hole



neutral



1st



2nd



5th



Thanks LO21 for the r154 swap all you need to know thread
 

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Blue Devil
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Discussion Starter #125
^^^ that looks amazing! great welding job!. looks like you may even be able to somehow fit an IS300 short shifter without much customization, since your shifter and the is300 shifter both use the same shifter socket at the bottom of the shifter

(btw, your picture from step #3 shows just the link, no picture)
 

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From what I keep gathering on the forums is that while the r154 will handle 600-700 rwhp, the overall driving experience with it is sub par. Looking back do you wish you would of gone v160 from the get go?

From what I read the v160 swap is fairly straight forward, v160 / sequoia axle / clutch & flywheel / and necessary tranny adapter & shifter adapter.

Both swaps require a new flywheel / clutch / and axle, but the cost of the r154 versus the v160 is pretty substantial.

Will the r154 get the job done? Or will I regret it and wish I went v160?
 

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From what I keep gathering on the forums is that while the r154 will handle 600-700 rwhp, the overall driving experience with it is sub par. Looking back do you wish you would of gone v160 from the get go?

From what I read the v160 swap is fairly straight forward, v160 / sequoia axle / clutch & flywheel / and necessary tranny adapter & shifter adapter.

Both swaps require a new flywheel / clutch / and axle, but the cost of the r154 versus the v160 is pretty substantial.

Will the r154 get the job done? Or will I regret it and wish I went v160?

^^ ditto.
 

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From what I keep gathering on the forums is that while the r154 will handle 600-700 rwhp, the overall driving experience with it is sub par. Looking back do you wish you would of gone v160 from the get go?

From what I read the v160 swap is fairly straight forward, v160 / sequoia axle / clutch & flywheel / and necessary tranny adapter & shifter adapter.

Both swaps require a new flywheel / clutch / and axle, but the cost of the r154 versus the v160 is pretty substantial.

Will the r154 get the job done? Or will I regret it and wish I went v160?
^^ ditto.
you guys should search mikefate or ISDude, both of them had/have r154's and could answer that for you... I know that ISDude loved his r154 from his postings... I think he even stated at one point that he liked it better than v160... I think the key to the v160/161 is having the proper rear end to go with it (ie: GS400 3.27 or US Supra rear 3.133) otherwise if you have an auto rear (3.9-4.11) or 5-spd rear (~3.76) 1st gear might be "fun" but it won't be very practical, you'll also lose economy on those long highway cruises as you'll probably be sucking it down @ 3200-3500rpm @ 80mph, whereas with a supra or GS rear you'd be cruising @ 2700-2900rpm @ 80mph. with a r154 + GS rear you'd be cruising @ 2700rpm @ 80mph
 

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you guys should search mikefate or ISDude, both of them had/have r154's and could answer that for you... I know that ISDude loved his r154 from his postings... I think he even stated at one point that he liked it better than v160... I think the key to the v160/161 is having the proper rear end to go with it (ie: GS400 3.27 or US Supra rear 3.133) otherwise if you have an auto rear (3.9-4.11) or 5-spd rear (~3.76) 1st gear might be "fun" but it won't be very practical, you'll also lose economy on those long highway cruises as you'll probably be sucking it down @ 3200-3500rpm @ 80mph, whereas with a supra or GS rear you'd be cruising @ 2700-2900rpm @ 80mph. with a r154 + GS rear you'd be cruising @ 2700rpm @ 80mph
Sounds like the r154 is the best bang for buck, although I don't think the gear ratio is going to matter when you throw 500-700whp at it.

Having a lower rpm "cruise" gear though would be nicer for fuel economy but when the car is attaining those power levels I'm not to worried about that.

Now locating a quality tranny is probably the issue since most of the donor cars are higher mileage and probably beat on.
 

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Heyyy, I have doubts

I have tranny R154 and I brought a act clutch kits, act ts2-xtr6
The clucth kits come:
T015x Pressure plate
6240007 - Solid hub (6 pad)
Rb419 - Release bearing Toyota Supra
Pb1004 - Pilot Bearing
At11 - Alignment tool

I bought many parts oem toyota clutch stuff.

My Question is:

so this parts ACT are sames oem toyota or are different?

ACT
Rb419 - Release bearing Toyota Supra
Pb1004 - Pilot Bearing

Oem Toyota
Clutch Hub Release Bearing - 90363-45012
Throw Out (Pilot Bearing) - 90363-12002-77

I want to assure than I will not purchase twice.
Thanks you
 

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SEAHAWKS!!
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Ok, so I skimmed threw the first page and didnt really see what I was wanting to know. So I will ask again, if its already been answered. Sorry

Will the manual driveshaft work with the R154?
I noticed that you cut the shifter. Is that necessary to make it align center?

I will ask more questions, as they come up.

Thanks
 

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Ok, so I skimmed threw the first page and didnt really see what I was wanting to know. So I will ask again, if its already been answered. Sorry

Will the manual driveshaft work with the R154?
I noticed that you cut the shifter. Is that necessary to make it align center?

I will ask more questions, as they come up.

Thanks
No factory drive shaft will work with the R154 unlike the V160 and V161. You can probably get it to work with modifications, but I never read of someone doing it while I was researching my R154 install. I am currently using the 3 inch aluminum drive shaft from "the drives shaft shop."

What exactly are you referring to when you say cut the shifter?
If you have the non-soarer R154, then you have to extend the hole on the transmission tunnel a bit (towards the front of the car) just to have access to install the shifter on the tranny.
If you are referring to what Leon did, he cut his and welded it back again so that the shifter would fall dead center. That is because he has the soarer tranny with the remote shifting. That R154 uses a straight shifter unlike the dog leg shifters on the more common R154.

I hope that helped,
Roy
 

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SEAHAWKS!!
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No factory drive shaft will work with the R154 unlike the V160 and V161. You can probably get it to work with modifications, but I never read of someone doing it while I was researching my R154 install. I am currently using the 3 inch aluminum drive shaft from "the drives shaft shop."

What exactly are you referring to when you say cut the shifter?
If you have the non-soarer R154, then you have to extend the hole on the transmission tunnel a bit (towards the front of the car) just to have access to install the shifter on the tranny.
If you are referring to what Leon did, he cut his and welded it back again so that the shifter would fall dead center. That is because he has the soarer tranny with the remote shifting. That R154 uses a straight shifter unlike the dog leg shifters on the more common R154.

I hope that helped,
Roy

Just to make sure that I am reading it correctly...The Soarer R154 tranny straight shifter will line up dead center in an IS300? I will measure the bellhousing to shifter just like what Leon wrote in his post.

Can you get a driveshaft before installing the tranny? Or do you need to install it first, to get the correct measurements?
What was your cost on the driveshaft just to get a ballpark idea on cost =)

Sorry for all the questions. If you cant answer them all, Im not worried, as I will probably find out later.

Thanks
Deek
 

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Just to make sure that I am reading it correctly...The Soarer R154 tranny straight shifter will line up dead center in an IS300? I will measure the bellhousing to shifter just like what Leon wrote in his post.

Can you get a driveshaft before installing the tranny? Or do you need to install it first, to get the correct measurements?
What was your cost on the driveshaft just to get a ballpark idea on cost =)

Sorry for all the questions. If you cant answer them all, Im not worried, as I will probably find out later.

Thanks
Deek
The straight shifter from the soarer tranny does not sit dead center. It's sits further back towards the rear of the vehicle, I think maybe like 1 inch or less. I know Leon had to drive with out the shift boot and center console because when he would shift into 2,4,R gear it would make contact. He then cut the shifter in the middle and welded the top portion in front of the lower portion now making the shifter closer to the center. It was just an added bonus that it lowered the hight of the shifter :).

To answer your 2nd question. Yes, you can order the DS already made for an IS300 with an R154 tranny.
The Driveshaft Shop | IS300 - Toyota - Import Driveshafts
 

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*Nub here, don't hate*​

First off, I already have the stock 5 speed w55. I'm currently stock piling parts for my rebuild, and I'm looking to push more psi. Now, my engine knowledge is fair, I already know what I'm gonna do engine-wise, but I'm a noob when it comes to the transmission. Obviously, I know that the dinky w55 isn't going to hold up too well pushing 12-14 psi, so a stronger transmission is, evidently, needed.

I'm a bit lost as to what I should ask, I've read through the thread and it seems that everyone who has posted here already has a decent knowledge to this swap. So I'm going to just run with it...

Let's say I have already purchased the r154, straight from the original car...I'm assuming, since I do not need to buy any parts that I already have from already having the stock 5 speed, that I will just need these?:

TRANSMISSION STUFF
1JZ-GTE R154 Bell Housing 31111-14110 $350.00
Flywheel Inspection Cover - L 31101-14010 $64.68
Flywheel Inspection Cover - R 31102-14010 $64.68
Flywheel Inspection Cover Gasket - L 31122-14010 $4.78
Flywheel Inspection Cover Gasket - R 31124-14010 $4.78
Flywheel Inspection Cover Bolts - L 90080-11228 $1.66 (qty. 2)
Flywheel Inspection Cover Bolts - R 91661-40814 $2.46 (qty. 2)
Bellhousing bolts 91611-61045 $11.07 (qty. 9)
Transmission Shift Fork 31204-14031 $55.72
Transmission Shift Fork Hook ??? ???
Lexus 1992 SC300 Shifter 33530-24040 $136.04
Supra mkIII Slave Cylinder 31470-14050 $51.71
Rear Tailshaft Oil Seal 90311-40001 $9.54

CLUTCH STUFF
1JZ-GTE Flywheel 13405-46030 $248.91
Flywheel Bolts 90910-02103 $52.56 (qty. 8)
Clutch-to-Flywheel Bolts ??? ??? (qty. 6)
Clutch Hub Release Bearing 90363-45012 $26.81
Throw Out (Pilot Bearing) 90363-12002-77 $5.42
BIG Bearing ??? ???
Snap Ring 96152-00450 $2.15
Plate Washer 90201-71001 $1.24
Wave Washer 90206-72001 $1.01
Shaft Snap Ring 90520-67001 $2.75
Washer 90201-45023 $1.96
Clutch Spring Pin 31264-14040 $14.09
And, I'm guessing that all of these parts may already come with the r154 transmission, but you're listing these parts because they should be replaced with new ones to ensure a proper rebuild?

And another question, this is more towards members who have successfully swapped this transmission into their already-manual cars, wiring? I'm assuming that this isn't a PnP type of deal? Is there anyone here that can shed some light on this matter as well?

Again, sorry for cluttering with such noob questions. I've never done this before, gotta learn somehow, right? And, I have a mechanic that will be helping me with the install when I eventually swap the transmission, so don't worry about me trying to do all of this on my own (lol). I'm just asking these questions for re-assurance and so I truly can understand what I am going to be getting myself into...Thanks for any insight guys. Jeesh, I feel like I'm about to get flamed right now (lol, take it easy).
 

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what car is your r154 out of? some of those parts are things you need to replace as maintance the rest is changing it to a jz bell housing and flywheel. This will all not work off your old transmission
as far as wiring the reverse sensor plugs in and speed sensor you need to get a conversion to electric
only things you will really use from your old trans is clutch pedal and master cyl as well as trans mount and trans cross member
 
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