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Nice write up, but personally.. I'd rather get an IS300 that is already 5 speed instead of ripping apart a perfectly good car and spending so much money on it as well.
 

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Blue Devil
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Discussion Starter #22
^^^ well, the truth is, many people do the swaps for many different reasons. mine was that i got the car in the summer of '01. doesn't sound like that long ago, but 7 years ago i would have never even thought of getting a manual. didn't even cross my mind. not to mention, it wasn't even an option until the '02's came out.

another reason might be if you go boost and know that your auto tranny wont hold the power, instead of spending the money upgrading it, you might just do the tranny swap right away. that wasn't an option for me at the time so i did end up upgrading the auto tranny, but sold it after i did the manual swap.

and to be honest, there was no ripping apart whatsoever. it was an extremely simple and straightforward of a project. if it's the inside that looked "ripped apart" to you, that center console takes about 3 minutes to take off and put back on.

and if you're referring to the pedal assemblies that look a bit of elbow grease to fit in there, it was only because of all of the aftermarket electronics (alarm, boost gauges) i had bunched under there since the original installers just shoved tons of wires up there. so it actually turned into a good chance to organize all that clutter, which we did.

and spending so much money? after selling my auto tranny, i paid about $3k. not to mention i spent an extra $1k to get the soarer r154 instead of the regular one whichc would have costed me much less. that's not too large of an amount, per se, to make such an "impactful" change to your IS. i say impactful, not sure what other word to use, because its something you see and feel and use EVERY SINGLE time you drive your car. so its not like installing a navi system that you only sometimes use (not to mention, it would probably cost more than my swap did).

and selling my '01 (which i would NEEEEEEEEEVER ever do because that car is priceless to me, after all these years and memories etc etc) to buy a used 1st gen manual would for sure cost me more that $3k out of pocket. not to mention i'd end up with some strangers car, and God knows how many times that guy may have dropped or slipped the clutch, etc.

just my .02 on a project like this..
 

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^^^ well, the truth is, many people do the swaps for many different reasons. mine was that i got the car in the summer of '01. doesn't sound like that long ago, but 7 years ago i would have never even thought of getting a manual. didn't even cross my mind. not to mention, it wasn't even an option until the '02's came out.

another reason might be if you go boost and know that your auto tranny wont hold the power, instead of spending the money upgrading it, you might just do the tranny swap right away. that wasn't an option for me at the time so i did end up upgrading the auto tranny, but sold it after i did the manual swap.

and to be honest, there was no ripping apart whatsoever. it was an extremely simple and straightforward of a project. if it's the inside that looked "ripped apart" to you, that center console takes about 3 minutes to take off and put back on.

and if you're referring to the pedal assemblies that look a bit of elbow grease to fit in there, it was only because of all of the aftermarket electronics (alarm, boost gauges) i had bunched under there since the original installers just shoved tons of wires up there. so it actually turned into a good chance to organize all that clutter, which we did.

and spending so much money? after selling my auto tranny, i paid about $3k. not to mention i spent an extra $1k to get the soarer r154 instead of the regular one whichc would have costed me much less. that's not too large of an amount, per se, to make such an "impactful" change to your IS. i say impactful, not sure what other word to use, because its something you see and feel and use EVERY SINGLE time you drive your car. so its not like installing a navi system that you only sometimes use (not to mention, it would probably cost more than my swap did).

and selling my '01 (which i would NEEEEEEEEEVER ever do because that car is priceless to me, after all these years and memories etc etc) to buy a used 1st gen manual would for sure cost me more that $3k out of pocket. not to mention i'd end up with some strangers car, and God knows how many times that guy may have dropped or slipped the clutch, etc.

just my .02 on a project like this..
Well said... not to mention that the factory 5-speed (w55) that come in the IS, is not the most favorable when it comes to big power. It holds less than an auto tranny from what I have read.
 

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Blue Devil
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Discussion Starter #24
^^^ you get started yet?!?!?
 

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i'm planning to do that swap on mine...but i'm actually W55 at the moment....iwas thinking to add some bling bling this year but i had some clutch slipping problems this falls on the dyno witch didn't help me to go over 350rwhp....I have to do R154 swap this spring !!!

is there anyone here who's using the SPEC stage 3+ clutch ?

they said it's "streetable" but can hold up to 625TQ wich is where i'm planning to go in couple years ( the mystic 500rwhp )

see this auction :
eBay Motors: Spec Stage 3+ Clutch kit 7mgte Toyota Supra Turbo MK3 (item 380091609794 end time Feb-18-09 20:59:04 PST)
 

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i'm planning to do that swap on mine...but i'm actually W55 at the moment....iwas thinking to add some bling bling this year but i had some clutch slipping problems this falls on the dyno witch didn't help me to go over 350rwhp....I have to do R154 swap this spring !!!

is there anyone here who's using the SPEC stage 3+ clutch ?

they said it's "streetable" but can hold up to 625TQ wich is where i'm planning to go in couple years ( the mystic 500rwhp )

see this auction :
eBay Motors: Spec Stage 3+ Clutch kit 7mgte Toyota Supra Turbo MK3 (item 380091609794 end time Feb-18-09 20:59:04 PST)
I'm not sure about the Spec 3+ clutch, maybe you might want to check out an MK3 supra forum. What I can tell you is, this tranny does not like a lot of shock when it comes to clutch engangement. As long as the Spec clutch has a sprung disk I am sure you should be ok. The enemy from what I have read (no personal experience) is unsprung disk with the combination of a heavy duty pressure plate = shocking the tranny! If you plan on rebuilding the tranny like with Marlin Crawler, then you can pretty much put any set-up you want. I went with an OS Giken twin disk clutch, because it is capable of holding 600+hp and has a smoother engagement than most heavy duty single disk clutch systems. Hope that answers your question.
 

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I was seeing in other older threads that the car has to be "tricked" to think it's in neutral or it would go into limp mode... and that CELs would pop up on on swap like this.

Have you had any codes or have you see anything like this?

I was thinking of doing this swap, since I also don't want to get rid of my SBM, but I'm pretty much stock performance-wise (no engine management, etc.). I just wanted to know what to expect.
 

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Blue Devil
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Discussion Starter #29
^^^ since your car is '01, you don't have to worry about that.

i'm not sure of the specifics of it, but i know '01s ECUs are different than '02-'05s. there's no wiring you would need to do except the starter, and the reverse light wires if you want your reverse lights to light up (even though you technically dont HAVE to do that.)

if you want your SBM in manual, then why not just to a stock IS manual tranny (W55). you'll save some money doing that instead of the R154, it'll probably shift a bit more smoothely, you know it'll lign up perfectly with your center console, AND you get to use a SWEEET short shifter (B&M, PLP, whatever!). i kinda wish i coulda gotten away with a w55, but i would blow it for sure.

and did you install an aftermarket LSD? (i'm guessing in '01 it didn't come stock like that?)
 

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I want to have the option of going forced induction later without issues, so the R154 is perfect for me. I just wanted to do this first.

Thanks for the info. Does your cruise control work after all?

As for the LSD, my car came with it as a $390 factory option.

^^^ since your car is '01, you don't have to worry about that.

i'm not sure of the specifics of it, but i know '01s ECUs are different than '02-'05s. there's no wiring you would need to do except the starter, and the reverse light wires if you want your reverse lights to light up (even though you technically dont HAVE to do that.)

if you want your SBM in manual, then why not just to a stock IS manual tranny (W55). you'll save some money doing that instead of the R154, it'll probably shift a bit more smoothely, you know it'll lign up perfectly with your center console, AND you get to use a SWEEET short shifter (B&M, PLP, whatever!). i kinda wish i coulda gotten away with a w55, but i would blow it for sure.

and did you install an aftermarket LSD? (i'm guessing in '01 it didn't come stock like that?)
 

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Hi, is a drive shaft absolutely necessary ? I have a guy locally that is trying to work out a deal on swapping his 2jzgte/r154 setup into my is, but could I drive the car for a few weeks ( carefully ) ? Because I dont want to order one and end up not going through on the deal.

Thanks
 

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Blue Devil
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Discussion Starter #32
Hi, is a drive shaft absolutely necessary ? I have a guy locally that is trying to work out a deal on swapping his 2jzgte/r154 setup into my is, but could I drive the car for a few weeks ( carefully ) ? Because I dont want to order one and end up not going through on the deal.

Thanks
yes, a driveshaft is absolutely necessary. the R154 is shorter than the IS tranny and requires a longer driveshaft, so the stock driveshaft wont reach the tranny (hence, not exactly possible to drive a RWD car for a few weeks without a driveshaft ;-))
 

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I was seeing in other older threads that the car has to be "tricked" to think it's in neutral or it would go into limp mode... and that CELs would pop up on on swap like this.

Have you had any codes or have you see anything like this?

I was thinking of doing this swap, since I also don't want to get rid of my SBM, but I'm pretty much stock performance-wise (no engine management, etc.). I just wanted to know what to expect.

I have 11 CEL's because of my 01 auto to r154 swap, so I did the 5min. fix and removed the bulb... Yes you bypass the neutral safety switch to get the car to start... no limp mode here after 6 months and that is not using any engine management (I am bone stock other than the r154)
 

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Well guy's, the car went under the knife last night. We started off by installing the clutch pedal assembly/clutch master and swapping out the brake pedal. I could not beleive how we were getting owned by what seems to be a pretty simple procedure. I know that LO 21 was mentioning how his was a PITA because of all the aftermarket wiring he had by where the clutch pedal goes. Once we had that done we thought we were in the clear. we pulled out the auto brake pedal arm and realized that the manual pedal arm I purchased (the one in the parts list) had this sensor and mechanism attached to it that the auto one did not have. It was restricing the pin that holds the pedal to the brake master to go through. We decided to remove that sensor/mechanism from the pedal arm. Once we had that out it just got even better. The hole is now to big (bigger than the one on the auto one). Luckily we don't call my friend Magiver for nothing. He ended up welding a coller or something in the hole so that way it had the right size bore. My suggestion, buy a used complete pedal assembly that way you have all the parts, or buy them all new from the dealer. If you don't, this is what your in for.
On a brighter note, today we will be dropping the tranny, DS, wiring what needs to be wired, clutch lines, etc.
Saturday-I am waiting on a input shaft seal to come in, replace that, install the tranny, etc.
 

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I have 11 CEL's because of my 01 auto to r154 swap, so I did the 5min. fix and removed the bulb... Yes you bypass the neutral safety switch to get the car to start... no limp mode here after 6 months and that is not using any engine management (I am bone stock other than the r154)
Well, that sucks. I live in a county where I need to pass inspection. Would you happen to know what the codes are that came up? If these are codes which will keep me from passing inspection I will have to scrub the swap plans (sucks even more, since I already started purchasing parts).

Side note. I keep hearing everywhere that the R154 is also used in the Saturn Sky and Pontiac Solstice. I know there is parts sharing between GM and Toyota, but I was surprised...

Solstice/Sky 5 speed manual (man, that is a long extension).


R154 from this thread.
 

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Blue Devil
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Discussion Starter #38
Side note. I keep hearing everywhere that the R154 is also used in the Saturn Sky and Pontiac Solstice. I know there is parts sharing between GM and Toyota, but I was surprised...

Solstice/Sky 5 speed manual (man, that is a long extension).


R154 from this thread.
yea i had heard that too. forgot to look into it back when i was gathering parts though. man, those trannies look almost identical (except obviously bellhousing and shifter housing).
that shifter housing is WAYYYYY too long though. mine as it is was about 3/4 of a inch farther back than the dead center of our center console housing, so i just played a bit with the shifter and made it fit pretty perfectly. but that one doesn't seem like there would be a way to make the shifter sit farther up.
 

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Transmission temp, transmission shift malfunctions (several of these), vehicle speed, neutral safety, and that's all I can think of off the top of my head... I took the easy way out and changed my license to my mother-in law's house to register my car in a non emissions county lol... To fully rid your car of cel's the easiest way I feel would be replace your harness and ecu with an 02+...
 

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I wanted to know something. When you remove the torque plate (auto flywheel) there is a spacer on the crank. In other words, it is sandwiched in between the torque plate and crank. what i want to know is, do you have to remove it when you install the manual flywheel or do you leave it on? To clear any confusion, it's about a 1/4 inch thick, removable and has 8 holes just like the crank.
 
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