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Ah frick. That felt like a punch in the gut. I just came across this update from a friend who works at Xcessive about when the ECU kits will be available again...

View attachment 135554

There's still hope. Just have to hang tight until stuff opens up again.
I felt the same way when I read both of their replies. I'm torn between waiting or just using the All4Swap signal converter and my factory 1J ECU to get it running.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I felt the same way when I read both of their replies. I'm torn between waiting or just using the All4Swap signal converter and my factory 1J ECU to get it running.
I would personally get the Canverter (Lexus IS200/300/Toyota Altezza - all4swap) and repin the 12 wires for the stock 1j ecu. Advantage is, it's only $100 and about 3 hours of your time, leaving the option of the PnP when it comes out. Relatively low investment.
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Small update, I officially bought the T56 Magnum swap a couple weeks ago. It'll get here whenever the supplier for the bellhousings catches up and ships their product to the shop.

In the meantime, I'm just studying, mapping, and drawing out the details of fittings, lines, peripheral wiring, and fitment of the 2 choices for an FFIM setup. The time for teardown/swap cannot come before September 30th, so I have all that time to learn, plan and buy a Quickjack 😂. I might still give myself a month or so after the engine arrives to do one final review before I call the buddies over and tear this thing apart.

Also, my car had it's first actual professional photoshoot this weekend during an incredibly intense sunset after a rainy day. The mismatched panels make it look like a typical project Lexus lol, but I can't stop staring at these pics! They came out really good for being unplanned and taken at a completely random gravel road in Aldie, VA.There's a ton more than this, can find all of them in the gallery on my profile: QWKSLVR Glamour Shots

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Just took the time to read through the entire thread. Nice work. I did notice that your collector on the CX manifold is different than mine. What is it made from?
 
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Discussion Starter #65
Just took the time to read through the entire thread. Nice work. I did notice that your collector on the CX manifold is different than mine. What is it made from?
Thanks brother! I believe my manifold has a cast collector, considering I can't see welds where the runners merge or where the flange sits. It seems like it's a single cast piece that is welded onto the rest of the manifolds where the shiny pipes begin (or end lol).
 

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Y
Thanks brother! I believe my manifold has a cast collector, considering I can't see welds where the runners merge or where the flange sits. It seems like it's a single cast piece that is welded onto the rest of the manifolds where the shiny pipes begin (or end lol).
yea that’s what I was thinking. I swore my manifold didn’t have that piece either but it does after looking at it again. I got my kit in about a month ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
A few significant updates...

- My PnP single Walbro 450 setup in a modified stock hanger might be up for sale, because I sourced a billet dual hanger for a 450 and a 525 hellcat pump for my car. Fuel pump flow will no longer be a concern for a limiting factor! I should be able to max out the ID1050x injectors on e85 now.

- I might be ditching all of the intercooler/charge piping setups I've collected over the last year or so (I have 2 complete intercoolers and 2 full piping sets lol). They're all too small for my liking tbh.

- I'm in touch with an amazing fabricator who can make me a custom large intercooler and piping, and possibly a manifold/downpipe/exhaust. In that case, my whole CX kit will be up for grabs for a good deal (missing turbo/wastegate/BOV which are all China junk anyways). I got in touch with the fabricator when looking for someone to modify my manifold and dump pipe for Precision 46 wastegate V-band flanges.

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  • I bought a PHR oil filter relocation kit from @gsrwanted137 to make FFIM oil changes less of a pain.
  • I bought a new power steering pump, reservoir relocation, and steering rack to refresh the entire power steering system on the car and make room for an FFIM.
  • I got in touch with a shop/tuner in Hagerstown who could button up/tune the car after the crazy swapping/fabbing process finishes.
  • For the time the swap happens, I bought a second IS300 to take care of my cravings lol. This one fell in my lap for a good deal. Factory manual+LSD, black-on-black, complete factory L-Sportline body kit, and it came with a bunch of goodies like Fortune Auto 510 coilovers, headers (there's a leak for the y-pipe gasket), intake, head unit, etc.
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I'll restore this thing as a side-quest with another pair of Chargespeed fenders, some bushings, maybe imported wheels/tires, and an interesting wrap. It'll make for an awesome daily in an amazing spec alongside the beastly, fully built silver IS.

Minor engine update: main bearing oil clearances were just dialed in with a combination of King STD and XTRA coated bearings. Block is bored and decked, ready to get plate-honed when the other stuff is finalized. Head is all machined and assembled, ready to bolt on to the block. The longblock is set to be done mid-next month. Exciting stuff!
 

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Did the cx racing intercooler fit behind the jdm front bumper?
Id imagine it would be a tight fit already considering you lose a few inches of space compared to a usdm bumper.

i did some measurements on my jdm trd neo bumper and i need something like a 2.5 inch thick core at the most in order to not cut any bumper.
Which i know is super small but w/e lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Did the cx racing intercooler fit behind the jdm front bumper?
Id imagine it would be a tight fit already considering you lose a few inches of space compared to a usdm bumper.

i did some measurements on my jdm trd neo bumper and i need something like a 2.5 inch thick core at the most in order to not cut any bumper.
Which i know is super small but w/e lol.
I know for sure the lower grille has to go, I didn't fit the intercooler in with the bumper yet haha. I simply bought the CX kit to use as a reference/mockup, and have been selling parts of it as I progress through the build (this is my first boosted car, I've actually never seen a built car in person in fine detail before I started this build lol).

I plan on cutting this bumper such that the intercooler sits flush and tight where the grille is for a refined and intense intercooler look (like the Vertex cover car, pictured below). Planning on a 4" core like the bottom section of the CX, or a 4.5" core depending on what my fabricator can do with the crash bar mounting of the end tanks. Going for a wide intercooler that fills the entire lower grille.

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Discussion Starter #70
So I was doing some regular maintenance (ball joints) and one of the RCA bolts broke inside the spindle. What prompted the maintenance was a clunking noise from the area of the bolt that broke (it was basically bottomed out in the spindle and there was play in the RCA as if the bolt was 0.5mm too long). Since it was a Figs RCA, I reached out to Mike and he offered to help me salvage my Shy Factory shortened spindle by extracting the bolt. I'm so happy there are businesses like Figs that support our platform, they stand 100% behind their work and are true to their word!

In the meantime, while I had the suspension apart and my spindle was shipped to Colorado, I decided it would be a good time to replace my lower control arms. In July 2018, I was in an incident involving rain, nighttime (10pm), a deer, a ditch, and a small tree stump. A deer crossed a very curvy dark wet single-lane road and I swerved to avoid it, sliding into a ditch and hopping a small tree stump on the way down. The aftermath was a boofed bumper, tweaked fender gaps, shredded fender liner, bent spindle, bent lower #1 arm, and tweaked #2 arm. I fixed the body stuff right away, aligned it myself, and fixed the spindle with the shortened ones a year later. But my car is still rolling on the bent arms over 2 years later. But not for much longer! I have a set of Ikeya Formula lower arms to straighten everything and replace the tired bushings...

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These will be combined with another major modification (to be revealed in the next post) to transform how the car feels.

The head and shortblock are complete now, and all that's left is to torque down the head with the GTE gasket and time the motor...
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In the meantime, I sourced a basically new Garrett GTX3584RS Gen II turbo and all the associated boost goodies. This basically finishes off all the big stuff for the build except the FFIM setup, related parts (integrated rail, upsized 1700 injectors, dual fuel pumps), and fab work (custom turbo manifold, downpipe, intercooler, charge pipes, and exhaust). I technically have everything I need to get the car running with the turbo, but the parts listed in parentheses are replacing them to make it easier to hit my power goals (I'll sell the old unused stuff).

Garrett GTX3584RS Gen II 0.81AR T3. My dream turbo. I want to sandblast and polish the compressor housing and possibly do a T51R mod, and maybe switch the turbine housing for a 1.01AR V-band inlet depending on the custom manifold configuration. It comes with all the fittings, turbo guard, and the turbine blanket.
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Tial Q 50mm blow off valve to replace the replica CXRacing piece I sold in January.
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Another custom catch can, now I have an option of which to run depending on how much space is left by the ABS relocation.
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Some pie cuts and sections to make my fab buddy's job a little easier...
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Additional updates, I completed my pedal setup with a factory manual brake pedal and a 1986 Toyota Land Cruiser 3/4" bore clutch master cylinder (to work with the Tilton hydraulic release bearing and McLeod twin disk clutch going in the T56 Magnum). Took 6 months to source parts and piece this together!

My other (black) IS drives addictingly well, although I can feel the clutch wanting to slip when I bang it into 3rd and 4th gear during spirited driving. Now I'm dreaming about 1JZ swapping it and putting L-Sportline 3-piece wheels on it with a rainbow flake wrap job 🥴

I can't wait to post the next update, it's an exciting one! Quick hint: my buddy bought an ISF last weekend and I was the one looking it through and test driving it; upon the first touch on one of the pedals, I was sold on an upgrade... Any guesses?
 

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ISF Manual conversion???
 
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Discussion Starter #73
ISF Manual conversion???
Had to specify, upgrade for my car lol. That would be incredibly dope though, the one I drove was a 2012 model and was easy to kick sideways and keep it there with the throttle. It would make a wild drift machine with a third pedal!

When I drove the ISF the auto trans really added to the experience. The shifts are incredibly crisp and the trans is buttery smooth. Impressive for a design from 2008! It rev matches itself seamlessly like a Porsche (second hint, the upcoming upgrade for my car is from a Porsche 😉)... If there was a way to put that trans behind a 2j, I'd swap out the Magnum for that in a heartbeat lol. That car pulls on the highway like a rocket and the induction noise is intoxicating, the instantaneous shifts make the experience feel like you're in fast forward.

IS-F big brakes?
Very close guess! I am using ISF rear rotors on the rear of my car as part of the upgrade lol. The problem with the ISF bbk is it can only be applied to the front. I want an upgrade for all 4 corners. The brakes on the ISF felt so telepathic and powerful they almost felt like the brakes on my dad's Aprilia RSV4. The acceleration and deceleration in the ISF is proportionally greater than the IS300 and it felt amazing haha.
 

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Had to specify, upgrade for my car lol. That would be incredibly dope though, the one I drove was a 2012 model and was easy to kick sideways and keep it there with the throttle. It would make a wild drift machine with a third pedal!

When I drove the ISF the auto trans really added to the experience. The shifts are incredibly crisp and the trans is buttery smooth. Impressive for a design from 2008! It rev matches itself seamlessly like a Porsche (second hint, the upcoming upgrade for my car is from a Porsche 😉)... If there was a way to put that trans behind a 2j, I'd swap out the Magnum for that in a heartbeat lol. That car pulls on the highway like a rocket and the induction noise is intoxicating, the instantaneous shifts make the experience feel like you're in fast forward.


Very close guess! I am using ISF rear rotors on the rear of my car as part of the upgrade lol. The problem with the ISF bbk is it can only be applied to the front. I want an upgrade for all 4 corners. The brakes on the ISF felt so telepathic and powerful they almost felt like the brakes on my dad's Aprilia RSV4. The acceleration and deceleration in the ISF is proportionally greater than the IS300 and it felt amazing haha.
ISF are indeed a treat to drive. As are the M3s they compete against. N/A V8 Induction noises are fantastic! Especially V8s that Rev!
 
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Are you going with the Cayenne calipers on the ol girl? It's a shot in the dark but I'm doing same thing at the moment and the Porsche hint and the bigger brakes in the rear has me convinced lol
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Are you going with the Cayenne calipers on the ol girl? It's a shot in the dark but I'm doing same thing at the moment and the Porsche hint and the bigger brakes in the rear has me convinced lol
Nailed it haha, Cayenne brakes all around! I'm just waiting to for the 30mm spacers to get delivered and for the KTS Japan RCA's to go through customs before I can post initial clearance pics of the front calipers. Good gosh these are massive! They clear the inner rim of the wheel faces on my Blitz 03's by hardly 1mm. The rotor fills up the entire inside of the wheel. It'll look epic!
 

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Haha that's awesome that they fit behind behind your wheels without a spacer, I don't think I'm going to be as lucky lol And those KTS Japan RCA's look awesome! I just grabbed the ones he had with the brackets but I really like how the KTS ones are one solid piece like the original Figs RCA's. I can't wait to see them on the car man!
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
Haha that's awesome that they fit behind behind your wheels without a spacer, I don't think I'm going to be as lucky lol And those KTS Japan RCA's look awesome! I just grabbed the ones he had with the brackets but I really like how the KTS ones are one solid piece like the original Figs RCA's. I can't wait to see them on the car man!
I'm no where near lucky about the spacers lol. There are tight clearances all around, and I will definitely need to add more space than I already have.

My wheels needed 5mm spacers to clear the stock spindles to begin with (18x9 +45 touches the spindle), I've been running 15mm spacers for over a year now to clear my modified spindles. I did a mock-up today and it looks like I will need an additional 25-30mm of spacer depending on how the rotor affects the wheel offset lol (thus the additional 30mm spacers that should be arriving soon). At the end I think the wheel spec will be around 18x9 +5 or 18x9 +0. Not ideal, and I might have the front wheels rebuilt with 1 inch wider barrels (so it's 18x10 +12 with the spacers back there). I think that'll fit just fine in the +20mm Chargespeed fenders, but I might keep an eye out for a set of aggressive spec monoblocks (NT03?) to just skip the spacers and have less scrub radius.

Here's the findings of my initial mockup/fit without modifying anything except the amount of spacer behind the wheel...

The main problem area is the pad guide pin "hump" in the center of the caliper. It interferes with the inner radius of the wheel face by 3 mm with 42mm of spacers and no rotor (rotor hat has a thickness that acts as a spacer):
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@23_zetto on instagram fit these calipers in 17x10 +12 specs with 2-3mm to spare in the same area (he ran into the same issue). That spec was achieved with 13mm of spacers behind 17x10 +25 5Zigen FN01R-C's. +12 offset on a 10 wide is just the same poke and scrub radius as an 18x9 +0, so I'll end up with identical fitment (and he runs stock fenders). That fact eases my nerves about running 1.75" spacers.

However, I'm not gentle on the car during spirited driving (not putting Porsche brakes on it to baby it lol), and the spacers will probably stress the wheel bearings a bit. But 0 offset wheels are a common thing (especially in widebody world), and the lifted trucks down south regularly run 2+ inch spacers (and they weigh over double the weight of our cars and make a crap ton of torque while accelerating and braking). I'll just try it and see I guess. If the bearings go bad, I'll throw these Blitz on my dad's TSX and run a set of aggressive spec monoblock wheels on my car like Work Emotion ZR10, Advan RS-D, WedsSport SA15R, Enkei RS05-RR, etc. Perhaps those won't have an inner face radius that interferes with the guide pin, and I could run less aggressive offset. That's where my thoughts lie on running spacers. I guess I'll give it a shot since these wheels are married to this car atm.

I also need to remove the tire and replace the valve stem with a rare 45 degree 3 inch stem (Work 39A valve stem) to fit correctly in the cutout in the wheel face, that way it won't interfere with the massive rotor and caliper. I guess I'll just have the tires flipped while I'm in there haha.
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The caliper almost grazes the wheel balancing weights in the barrel lol (less than 1mm), it's truly massive. I'll tell the tire guy to stick them on a different surface (either an inch in or out on the sloped sections of the barrel).

This is not an easy brake swap, there's a lot of calculated decisions being weighed (switching the calipers left/right, amount of clearancing needed in certain places, target wheel alignment specs, fitment calculations, etc.). Sometimes I wonder if ISF front brakes (and 350phi adapters) would clear better (they use the same rotors). It would be much cheaper to swap to that setup and sell this front brake setup in the future instead of getting new wheels if so.

It's quite a project, really have to know what I'm doing in every step and fully justify every millimeter of modification. I have a lot of measuring, test-fitting, clearancing, bloody knuckles, etc. ahead of me! After this is swapping in the Ikeya Formula arms, new steering rack+pump+remote reservoir, battery relocation, and ABS relocation. Mildly overwhelming atm, but I'll take it one step at a time; I've already come so far and it's been fun the whole way.
 

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Well crap, my bad my brain let me down there lol the 30mm spacers and the KTS RCA's must have ran together in my head when I read it 😅 to be honest I was Googling IS-F rear rotors trying to find some that aren't drilled and landed here on page 4 and played the lazy bastard card instead of reading through the whole build thread (which now I have lol) and I can now see that you have aaaaalot more going on up front haha but I digress.

If the IS-F front calipers are indeed easier to fit behind your wheels then that avenue would definitely be worth exploring because personally, I would hate to see the Blitz's go lol. Have you found any real fitment info on the IS-F calipers? I couldn't really find any good info on running those other than just them bolted on to the car with the 350phi brackets.

And as far as the spacers go, being from Alabama I have had a truck with 2 inch wheel spacers (for actual useful purposes lol) and it never really caused any issues other than being 2 miles wide haha And you've got that right about this being a very involved brake swap, I've had a few "What the hell am I doing" moments while grinding on things lol Are we supposed to switch the calipers from left to right!? I was thinking it was just swapping the bleeder valves and crossover tubes from bottom to top.
 
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