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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I bought a cheapo Easyguard EC-003-01 push to start kit, keyless entry, trunk release, remote start. I’ve wired it into the ignition, triple checked the wires, and it fails to turn over. It cranks for like a second then stops. I’ve googled for 2 days now, just finding people with remote starts so I can verify the ignition wiring as to what they are and pairing them correctly. Yes I have the key in the immobilizer ring.

anyone have any ideas what else I could do. Can’t find anyone on YouTube as they are just showing off the push to start not actually showing wiring.

thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wouldn’t having my valet key in the immobilzer ring that goes around the ignition cylinder work? Would that be a bypass?
 

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Technically, yes. But not a good practice. Most remote stye system have a module to simulate the signal. It is only active when the system is activated. But it does need to be coded into the factory immobilizer.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I used an immobilizer bypass that took out of the vehicle since the last owner had a remote start and didnt tell me or give me the key fob. So i used that. the company told me to wire the fuel pump wire to well a fuel pump wire but the wiring diagrams for this vehicle dont make it easy, alternatively they suggested a oil pump wire, tach wire, or the ignition 1 wire. I wired the fuel pump wire to the black/red igition 1 wire, and used a bypass but both didnt work. I imagine it wants the fuel pump wire/tach/or ignition because these voltages are pulsating during the crank phase of the engine then steady out to 12 volts once the engine has started so it cuts signal to the starter wire? Am i thinking of this correctly?

Anyone have any ideas? Where the fuel pump wire is?
 

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Immobilizer bypass should be a signal to the factory immobilizer. Like I was talking about before. The interrupt to a fuel pump is a simple relay. On or off. So if the power is going up and down. Something is wrong.

Do you have a manufacturer's website for your remote start kit? I may be able to read a bit and help more.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just tried again. Turns out you can hold the push to start down for a longer cranking time. GREAT. But now it still doesnt turn over, but does the engine shudder like its about to start. Maybe fuel pump wire still?
 

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That is just a cheap aftermarket alarm system. It does not bypass the factory system. They want you leave a chip in the car. Your problem may be the factory system not getting the right signal and voltage. What do you mean you bypassed?

Also did you do this just for remote start or what?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
CHeap!? This is the highest grade Chineseum money can buy!

I managed to get it to run! but only for a few seconds then it crapped out. I had to switch the ignition wires around. By Bypass i mean, i have a little box when the master key immobilizer chip is inside it, 12 volts goes to the box, supposedly amplifies the signal, then you take a induction coil and wrap it around the immobilizer ring at the ignition cylinder.

Right now, the fuel pump wire on the easyguard box, is connected to C1 on the DH61 igniter on the drivers fender. Not sure if this works or not, just using it because that was spliced from the last system, and i have no idea where the fuel pump wire is or what color. If you know the color and location that would be great, otherwise i'll rip the back seat up and run continuity at the fuel pump to connectors at the drivers side kick panel.

Also, the manual says to use tachometer wire if you cant use the fuel pump wire. And supposedly the tach wire is on the DH61 Igniter, but my wire isnt there.

I have not tried remote start yet as I want to atleast get it to run first.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I havent installed any relays yet. there was a requirement for a Ground while running but Im not sure if the is300 has that or not.

So I let it sit for an hour on the battery charger and put the fuel pump wire to the C1 on the igniter. She was a rough start, had to give it some throttle, but she started up perfectly. Smoked out the garage. I tried starting a few times without giving it gas and it was a success. So as of right now, i have to install the door lock/unlock wires with relays, and trunk wire with relay. I also have to test starting it using the immobilizer bypass hooked up and no key cylinder.

Is the green/red and green/black on the drivers side junction box the appropriate wires to tap into for this? A lot of threads say to actually go into the door and tap into the motor. Also any ideas on the trunk wire?
 

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I do not know the colors for your wires. I am sure you can read the wiring diagram. The idea of the relays on the other interupte spots is to not drop voltage or amperage.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So an Update for my blog,

I tapped into the red/white and green/yellow door lock wires in the drivers side door, to the lock/unlock wires of the new module which were connected to a set of relays in a positive trigger setup. ended up FRYING my body ecu. I have to admit, this cars wiring diagrams and information on the internet are pretty garbage. Either one person has different color wires or somehow got it to work without saying how he did it, perfect.

Luckily there was a guy locally who was parting out his is300 and got a new body ecu. so now through excessive multimetering and googling for a couple days that the wiring is A MULTIPLEX SYSTEM. this is for the guys who will google this in a couple years. Additionally I have to use diodes in this system but no clue where to use them as most forums people don't bother with diagrams.

Can anyone confrim that i just need to tap into the red/white wire that goes to the door motor? can anyone confirm that a diode in-line with the wire going to the body ecu to prevent feedback is correct?
 

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These are factory diagrams from the internet.

Most Toyota systems are negative trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
See i thought so too. But that diagram that you referenced says "Multiplex communication system" above "body ecu". I also found the is300 diagnostic wiring and TSB manual, which was a little more in depth, and says the door locks are apart of the multiplex system as well. And I just tried the DEI 1070 document from www.the12volt.com, and the locks still don't work. They'll only lock when the car is locked. They won't lock if the car is unlocked. and they won't unlock when the car is locked. Im kinda confused now.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I'm an idiot. I tapped into the wrong Blue/black wire for the lock detection. I ran continuity for the green/red and green/black but didn't bother to check the Blue/black. I got the correct wire now and it works flawlessly. Now im onto he trunk wire, which is the blue/white wire thats behind the body ecu. theres only one behind the body ecu and plugs into it. Its a 14 pin connector and the blue/white wire is pin 8. Now im trying to figure out the best way to cut into it as theres little to no room.

Alarm install notes & questions

this guy said he tapped into the body ecu, but im not sure as to how he would have done that since the 5 wire relay http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/15317_IS300_5-WIRE TRUNK RELEASE DIAGRAM.pdf mentions to cut the wire in half. Unless he cut into the hard line inside the ecu
 

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