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forza italia
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I’m not 100% sure that I’m going with a PC-only solution for my car, but here is what I am thinking right now:

Main Computer Components:

> CarCPU DIY kit (MicroATX case, with Opus 150W PSU) – vlad, will you ship to Canada?
> Athlon Mobile 2500+ CPU
> Biostar M7NCG Motherboard
> 256 MB PC2700 DDR SDRAM
> Seagate 80 GB 3.5” HDD

Monitor:

> Xenarc 700TSV 7” Touchscreen LCD

And now for the USB devices:

> M-Audio Transit (powered via USB)
> DVD drive (not sure of specific drive, will need external power)
> Linksys WUSB54g (powered via USB)
> Laptop/keyboard (Wireless – probably Gyration – powered by USB)
> GlobalSat BU-303 USB GPS receiver (powered via USB)
> Griffin RadioShark (powered via USB)

Here’s the plan, in terms of component locations:

Front of the car:
> Xenarc touchscreen located in JDM dash kit

Mounted underneath rear deck:
> WiFi card, GPS receiver, keyboard/mouse RF transmitter, FM receiver (connected to car antenna if possible)

Inside trunk:
> Computer, DVD drive (don’t really need to put it up front, won’t be using it much), amp for sound system, sound card, USB hubs

I don’t think I forgot anything too major…

My motherboard has two USB ports (there are headers for four more, but they won’t fit with the CarCPU case, will they?). Should I go with one powered hub, and an unpowered hub?

It would be nice to run everything off of the Opus, but I’m not sure that it will work.

Any recommendations on what I should do? Ideally, it would be nice to power the computer itself, the monitor, the USB hub, and the DVD player from the Opus, but 150W seems like it is pushing it, even with the CPU underclocked. I would like this because everything is on the Opus shutdown controller.

Looks like I’m going to need another DC-DC PSU. What should I power with it? The touchscreen is an obvious choice, as well as the DVD player… what about the USB hub? If I were to power the USB hub via a separate PSU, would any of the connected devices still use anything more than a miniscule amount of power from the PSU powering the computer? If this worked, it would be nice because the soundcard, WiFi card, etc. would no longer be putting a load on the main PSU. But… the PSU would have to keep providing power at least as long as the main Opus PSU keeps the computer on, because I will set it to keep running for a short amount of time, after the car is completely off. Should I just get a smaller Opus and set it with the same shutdown settings? Is there any way to use something like a relay with a smaller DC-DC PSU, so that it stays on as long as the Opus is on?

All in all, this shouldn’t be too impossible of a job. I need to get it done before school starts (yeah, I need to go to school in the summer :(), and I’m getting very busy now, so this may not get done. I’m trying hard though…I’ll be installing this along with an audio system, something I’ve never done before, so I’ll be learning a lot. I have some other power questions, but they can wait until later. Right now I just want to focus on the lower level power issues.

Thanks very much!
 

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ever considering a laptop?
 

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forza italia
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
BIGGrUmpYBUTT said:
well my friends have it in their cars, its so cool, everything you need internet, nav, caller id through car speaker, need a bluetooth phone though, but this is a very goodwebsite:

www.mp3car.com
MP3Car is great. I actually posted there to make sure that the on-board video will output the Xenarc's native resolution without issue (a lot of people are having issues with built-in video), and to make sure that the previous Opus issues with the Biostar board have been resolved.

van48 said:
ever considering a laptop?
Nope, and I don't plan on it. It really isn't the best choice, for a variety of reasons. It might be worth it if you found a Centrino-based laptop with a broken screen for a very good price, and somehow came up with a good, intelligent way to power it. Other than that, a laptop isn't the best idea.
 

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azzurro said:
Hi all,

I’m not 100% sure that I’m going with a PC-only solution for my car, but here is what I am thinking right now:

Main Computer Components:

> CarCPU DIY kit (MicroATX case, with Opus 150W PSU)
> Athlon Mobile 2500+ CPU
> Biostar M7NCG Motherboard
> 256 MB PC2700 DDR SDRAM
> Seagate 80 GB 3.5” HDD
I see no issues there. Not a big fan of AMD products, but it's cool.

azzurro said:
Monitor:

> Xenarc 700TSV 7” Touchscreen LCD

And now for the USB devices:

> M-Audio Transit (powered via USB)
> DVD drive (not sure of specific drive, will need external power)
> Linksys WUSB54g (powered via USB)
> Laptop/keyboard (Wireless – probably Gyration – powered by USB)
> GlobalSat BU-303 USB GPS receiver (powered via USB)
> Griffin RadioShark (powered via USB)
If you don't plan to relocate Xenarc's buttons and are not going to use (enable first) auto input2 switch feature (for back-up camera), there's no reason to get TSV over TS.

For audio, I'd get something that has its own power plug. Sometimes USB-powered devices pick up power and other noises from the system. SB Audigy 2NX is my all-time favorite.
N/A for RadioShark as it sends audio digitally to the system.

There are some ext DVD drives that are powered through USB. They are hard to get a hold of and you don't always know if it is the case. Still, most require 5V, which can be taken from the system's power rail.

Gyration makes really good keyboards. I am even using one of them at home for the hidden-away PC.

azzurro said:
Here’s the plan, in terms of component locations:

Front of the car:
> Xenarc touchscreen located in JDM dash kit

Mounted underneath rear deck:
> WiFi card, GPS receiver, keyboard/mouse RF transmitter, FM receiver (connected to car antenna if possible)
I would move keyboard/mouse receiver somewhere to the front. In fact, mine is mounted upside-down under the lint collector/vent piece. I drilled 4 holes and used longer screws to hold it in place. If I need to program keyboard/mouse, I can pull off the whole thing for easy access. Also getting a better reception too.

azzurro said:
Inside trunk:
> Computer, DVD drive (don’t really need to put it up front, won’t be using it much), amp for sound system, sound card, USB hubs

I don’t think I forgot anything too major…

My motherboard has two USB ports (there are headers for four more, but they won’t fit with the CarCPU case, will they?). Should I go with one powered hub, and an unpowered hub?
There are holes for 4 USB headers. You may want to get those at the same time, as they are hard to find (12").
For a hub, I would get a powered one. Otherwise, you may put too much load on a single USB plug.

azzurro said:
It would be nice to run everything off of the Opus, but I’m not sure that it will work.

Any recommendations on what I should do? Ideally, it would be nice to power the computer itself, the monitor, the USB hub, and the DVD player from the Opus, but 150W seems like it is pushing it, even with the CPU underclocked. I would like this because everything is on the Opus shutdown controller.
Opus will handle it. Trust me, those are some really good DC-DC power supplies. Worth every penny. I've pushed them all the way to the limit, which is more than what you plan on doing.

I wouldn't run the LCD off it, though. Xenarc accepts 11V+ power, so it can run directly off car's electrical system. However, it is very sensitive to any power fluctuations / noise. There's a 25WT isolating DC-DC power supply that Xenarc is run through, which made it work flawlessly. I also have 9V chip on that power supply so my mouse is charging even if the battery is starting to run low (chip needs 12V min to output 9V).


azzurro said:
Looks like I’m going to need another DC-DC PSU. What should I power with it? The touchscreen is an obvious choice, as well as the DVD player… what about the USB hub? If I were to power the USB hub via a separate PSU, would any of the connected devices still use anything more than a miniscule amount of power from the PSU powering the computer? If this worked, it would be nice because the soundcard, WiFi card, etc. would no longer be putting a load on the main PSU. But… the PSU would have to keep providing power at least as long as the main Opus PSU keeps the computer on, because I will set it to keep running for a short amount of time, after the car is completely off. Should I just get a smaller Opus and set it with the same shutdown settings? Is there any way to use something like a relay with a smaller DC-DC PSU, so that it stays on as long as the Opus is on?
My suggestion, use Opus for all of the devices except LCD. For LCD, either plug it in directly or use a DC-DC power converter.

azzurro said:
All in all, this shouldn’t be too impossible of a job. I need to get it done before school starts (yeah, I need to go to school in the summer :(), and I’m getting very busy now, so this may not get done. I’m trying hard though…I’ll be installing this along with an audio system, something I’ve never done before, so I’ll be learning a lot. I have some other power questions, but they can wait until later. Right now I just want to focus on the lower level power issues.

Thanks very much!
You're welcome. :)
That was some long post. Whew.
 

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van48 said:
ever considering a laptop?
Laptops / Notebooks have a load of issues to deal with. Not worth it for a permanent solution.
 

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forza italia
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
vlad_a said:
I see no issues there. Not a big fan of AMD products, but it's cool.
For this set-up, I like the fact that this is the lowest power usage I'd be getting, short of going with a sloooow VIA mobo/proc combo, or with an expensive Pentium-M. The processor is completely unlocked, so I can underclock it severely if I need to, or overclock it very high if the power usage isn't too high and it was made from a good batch of silicon ;)

The last couple of PCs I've built have been running AMD processors, with the latest nForce chipset, and they've been a pain in the ass though. nVidia's drivers have been nothing but problems, but the MSI boards I used were all highly recommended. I'd like to stay away, but this is the only way I can get decent on-board video (Via's on-board video won't display the Xenarc's native rez properly).

vlad_a said:
If you don't plan to relocate Xenarc's buttons and are not going to use (enable first) auto input2 switch feature (for back-up camera), there's no reason to get TSV over TS.
I have no use for the inputs in the car, but I was thinking that they could see some other use outside of the automotive environment. This should be permanently in the car though, so I guess I should just save the extra couple of bucks by going with the TS.

vlad_a said:
I would move keyboard/mouse receiver somewhere to the front. In fact, mine is mounted upside-down under the lint collector/vent piece. I drilled 4 holes and used longer screws to hold it in place. If I need to program keyboard/mouse, I can pull off the whole thing for easy access. Also getting a better reception too.
I guess the RF Tx/Rx power is really low if the unit performs so much better from the front. Have you tried it underneath the rear deck though?

vlad_a said:
There are holes for 4 USB headers. You may want to get those at the same time, as they are hard to find (12").
Hmm... I can't figure out if the motherboard comes with the actual headers. It says I have six USB ports, and two are in the rear, and I see the actual header connectors on the motherboard itself, but that's it. Would I need to buy something separate, and are these connectors standardized? Every computer I've built has had them included.

vlad_a said:
Opus will handle it. Trust me, those are some really good DC-DC power supplies. Worth every penny. I've pushed them all the way to the limit, which is more than what you plan on doing.

My suggestion, use Opus for all of the devices except LCD. For LCD, either plug it in directly or use a DC-DC power converter.
Sounds good.

vlad_a said:
I wouldn't run the LCD off it, though. Xenarc accepts 11V+ power, so it can run directly off car's electrical system. However, it is very sensitive to any power fluctuations / noise. There's a 25WT isolating DC-DC power supply that Xenarc is run through, which made it work flawlessly.
I'll go with the 25 watt DC-DC PSU. How would I power/connect this though? It would be nice if it were on whenever the Opus is on. Do I power the smaller PSU from the distribution block, and use a relay?

vlad_a said:
For audio, I'd get something that has its own power plug. Sometimes USB-powered devices pick up power and other noises from the system. SB Audigy 2NX is my all-time favorite.
N/A for RadioShark as it sends audio digitally to the system.

There are some ext DVD drives that are powered through USB. They are hard to get a hold of and you don't always know if it is the case. Still, most require 5V, which can be taken from the system's power rail.

For a hub, I would get a powered one. Otherwise, you may put too much load on a single USB plug.
What is the best way to actually wire the Audigy 2NX, a powered DVD drive, and a powered USB hub? Do all of these require 5V?
I know that the Opus has a +5V output, but can it easily be used to connect these devices, or will I need to start hacking molex connectors?

vlad_a said:
You're welcome. :)
That was some long post. Whew.
Thank you so much, once again :)
 

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azzurro said:
For this set-up, I like the fact that this is the lowest power usage I'd be getting, short of going with a sloooow VIA mobo/proc combo, or with an expensive Pentium-M. The processor is completely unlocked, so I can underclock it severely if I need to, or overclock it very high if the power usage isn't too high and it was made from a good batch of silicon ;)

The last couple of PCs I've built have been running AMD processors, with the latest nForce chipset, and they've been a pain in the ass though. nVidia's drivers have been nothing but problems, but the MSI boards I used were all highly recommended. I'd like to stay away, but this is the only way I can get decent on-board video (Via's on-board video won't display the Xenarc's native rez properly).
I'm not a fan of VIA boards either.

There is an alternative. You can get a good ol' Intel P4 Northwood chip. Go with 800FSB 512K version, so you'll get HT (Hyperthreading) capability. HT is like AWD in the car world. While quicker processors may get stuck, HT keeps pulling.
Those processors are discontinued and are hard to get a hold of, but don't let that fool you. They consume good 2-3 amps less power than the newer Prescotts and run cooler. Performance-wise, they outperform Prescotts because they have quicker cache memory.


azzurro said:
I have no use for the inputs in the car, but I was thinking that they could see some other use outside of the automotive environment. This should be permanently in the car though, so I guess I should just save the extra couple of bucks by going with the TS.

azzurro said:
I guess the RF Tx/Rx power is really low if the unit performs so much better from the front. Have you tried it underneath the rear deck though?
Rear deck should work without any problems. It is just not accessible once assembled. I had no issues running with the receiver temporarily located in the ski-pass.

azzurro said:
Hmm... I can't figure out if the motherboard comes with the actual headers. It says I have six USB ports, and two are in the rear, and I see the actual header connectors on the motherboard itself, but that's it. Would I need to buy something separate, and are these connectors standardized? Every computer I've built has had them included.
Those are pretty much standard. Very rarely you'd have to relocate pins on the header. MB manual should have the pin-out. The header goes in the following order: +5V, Data (-), Data (+), Ground.

azzurro said:
I'll go with the 25 watt DC-DC PSU. How would I power/connect this though? It would be nice if it were on whenever the Opus is on. Do I power the smaller PSU from the distribution block, and use a relay?
Just power it through ACC line. No need to have the LCD on all the time with the PC.

azzurro said:
What is the best way to actually wire the Audigy 2NX, a powered DVD drive, and a powered USB hub? Do all of these require 5V?
I know that the Opus has a +5V output, but can it easily be used to connect these devices, or will I need to start hacking molex connectors?
Opus' molex is mounted directly into the case, so it can be used to power external devices. Then, a power harness is made from (M) molex connector. Red is 5V, black is ground and Yellow is 12V.

azzurro said:
Thank you so much, once again :)
You're welcome.
 

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forza italia
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
vlad_a said:
I'm not a fan of VIA boards either.

There is an alternative. You can get a good ol' Intel P4 Northwood chip. Go with 800FSB 512K version, so you'll get HT (Hyperthreading) capability. HT is like AWD in the car world. While quicker processors may get stuck, HT keeps pulling.
Those processors are discontinued and are hard to get a hold of, but don't let that fool you. They consume good 2-3 amps less power than the newer Prescotts and run cooler. Performance-wise, they outperform Prescotts because they have quicker cache memory.
I'll see if I can find one easily over here. If I can find one, and the price is right, I'll go with the Intel system.

vlad_a said:
Rear deck should work without any problems. It is just not accessible once assembled. I had no issues running with the receiver temporarily located in the ski-pass.

Those are pretty much standard. Very rarely you'd have to relocate pins on the header. MB manual should have the pin-out. The header goes in the following order: +5V, Data (-), Data (+), Ground.
Nice.

vlad_a said:
Just power it through ACC line. No need to have the LCD on all the time with the PC.
Of course... stupid me.

vlad_a said:
Opus' molex is mounted directly into the case, so it can be used to power external devices. Then, a power harness is made from (M) molex connector. Red is 5V, black is ground and Yellow is 12V.
Do I have to physically make such a power harness? I'm still not sure how I would physically connect the hub and soundcard so it is powered by the molex connector.

Other than that, I think I'm almost ready. :)

I'm in the process of researching and making a wiring diagram for the entire system (PC and audio components). Once that's all done, and I know exactly what I'm getting myself into as far as installation is concernced, I'll be ready to buy everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK... here's the wiring diagram that I've come up with.



Not sure how correct this is. This is what I came up with after reading some install sites all night.

I'm not entirely sure about the wire gauges and fuses. These should work, I think...

Some comments/questions:

First of all, the power connections for the externally-powered USB devices are not shown, because I'm not sure how that would work (see my post above).

The Xenarc power isn't connected. What kind of wire would I need to run?

Is ACC good for IGN on the PSUs and REM on the amp? What is the best way to get ACC in the trunk? Extend the gray ACC wire that I see going into the stock amp on the wiring diagram that I am looking at, or is there a better way?

Once again, thanks :)
 

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ACC you can get from gray wire for the radio/amp or pink cig lighter one.
25WT PSU can be connected to the same wire as above. No need to ground it to the same spot. It is fully isolated on (+) and (-) sides, so it eliminates power grounding loops. It'll consume about 1-2 amps of power, so there's not much to worry about.
For Xenarc, you just cut off cig lighter plug and screw the wires into 25WT PSU.

For powered USB device, you'll have to make your own power harness or have one made for you. Original wires from AC adapters are used for it.

For amp remote, you may wire a relay to the above harness and have it send ACC input to the amp when tirggered. This will save amp from "thumping" when the system turns on, as there is a 5 second delay.

Opus will take the same ACC wire as input. You may want to install a switch on that wire so you'll be able to shut the system down if need-be. My amp's remote wire, which goes through a relay, also uses the same input. This way, if the switch is off, the amp is off too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
vlad_a said:
ACC you can get from gray wire for the radio/amp or pink cig lighter one.
25WT PSU can be connected to the same wire as above. No need to ground it to the same spot. It is fully isolated on (+) and (-) sides, so it eliminates power grounding loops. It'll consume about 1-2 amps of power, so there's not much to worry about.
So basically I should just tap into the cig lighter, fuse the tap (2 amp fuse?), and connect this directly the the 25W PSU? What input connections are on this PSU? Just BATT, or is there BATT and IGN? Would I be able to keep this PSU permanently behind the glove compartment?

Now, for ACC in the rear, should I run another wire at the point I just made the tap for the PSU, fuse it at something like 1 ampere, and run it all the way to the trunk? Reading below, you say to send ACC from the power harness to the amp. But that +12V is coming from the Opus 12V rail, which means that the Opus is already on, meaning that it has its own ACC, right? Is this actually from the gray or pink wires up front, ran into the trunk, or from somewhere else?

vlad_a said:
For amp remote, you may wire a relay to the above harness and have it send ACC input to the amp when tirggered. This will save amp from "thumping" when the system turns on, as there is a 5 second delay.

Opus will take the same ACC wire as input. You may want to install a switch on that wire so you'll be able to shut the system down if need-be. My amp's remote wire, which goes through a relay, also uses the same input. This way, if the switch is off, the amp is off too.
I've been trying to wire this, but I realized that my problem is that I am not sure what causes the thump, because I'm not entirely certain how the amplifier actually works.

Is this correct: Amp is wired with the BATT connection connected to the +ve terminal of car battery, GND is grounded to the vehicle chassis, and remote is somehow connected to ACC. With ACC at 0V, the amplifier is completely off. When ACC hits 12V, the amplifier powers itself up. Where is the thumping noise coming from? The amplifier has to turn on sometime, right, so am I correct in assuming that this noise is only a factor if the amplifier is turned on immediately when the car is started? This is the only way that I can think of that makes sense, because the actual REM intput is probably a relay in itself.

Now, do I want to delay the the ACC signal from getting to REM, or the amplifier's power (directly from the battery) getting to BATT? Either way seems like it would work, if I understand correctly, but the former seems like it would be much safer for the amplifier and the battery.

So, the schematic I came up with for the relay & switch is below (assume BATT is connected to my d. block). Is that what I need? I won't need to access this switch unless the computer crashes violently, which I hope won't be often, so I could hide the switch up front, and turn it off if I bring the car in for service or something. :bigSmile:



Actually, cutting ACC to the Opus in the event of a crash probably won't be too helpful if the shutdown delay is set for a long time, right? Not a big deal anyways.

vlad_a said:
For powered USB device, you'll have to make your own power harness or have one made for you. Original wires from AC adapters are used for it.
Ahh ok. Do you happen to know if there are any tutorials on how to do this? I can't imagine it being too hard, but I don't want to just start cutting stuff up to experiment.
 

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azzurro said:
So basically I should just tap into the cig lighter, fuse the tap (2 amp fuse?), and connect this directly the the 25W PSU? What input connections are on this PSU? Just BATT, or is there BATT and IGN? Would I be able to keep this PSU permanently behind the glove compartment?
25WT PSU has only 2 inputs, (+) and (-). Connect (+) to either pink cig ligher wire or gray radio wire. Ground (-) wire. Output is also (+) and (-). Connect it to Xenarc's cig ligher cord.

I don't think there is much space behind the glove box. Mine is attached to the metal rail, where stock HU used to be. I put 2 bolts on the bottom side of the PSU and drilled 2 holes in the rail. 2 nuts hold the bolts in place and then the whole thing attaches to the rail. This way I can remove AC controls and be able to take off PSU.

No need to fuse it. There's already a fuse on the line from the factory.

azzurro said:
Now, for ACC in the rear, should I run another wire at the point I just made the tap for the PSU, fuse it at something like 1 ampere, and run it all the way to the trunk? Reading below, you say to send ACC from the power harness to the amp. But that +12V is coming from the Opus 12V rail, which means that the Opus is already on, meaning that it has its own ACC, right? Is this actually from the gray or pink wires up front, ran into the trunk, or from somewhere else?
Opus has its own 12V, 5V, etc outputs used by the PC. 12 can be used to trigger a relay to send car's ACC to the amp. You may want to use a small relay. There's very little current going through it.

You would need only 1 wire run to the trunk. From there, connect it to opus' ACC input and relay switch (pin 87). Second relay switch wire (pin 30) would go to Amp's remote input. 2 relay trigger wires (pins 85-86) would connect to opus' 12V output (yellow and black wires). This way, amp will be off when the pc is off or car's acc is off.

azzurro said:
I've been trying to wire this, but I realized that my problem is that I am not sure what causes the thump, because I'm not entirely certain how the amplifier actually works.
Amp turns itself on when it has input on the remote wire. Opus has a 5 sec delay to turn on so you can start the car w/o putting extra stress on the PSU. Now, if you send ACC to both of them at the same time, amp will turn on right away and the PC only after 5 seconds. Since the amp is already on, when PC turns on, it creates a thump. The work-around is to use a relay to trigger when the PC is on to send car's ACC to the amp. This will ensure that the amp is on only when the PC is on and car's ACC is on.

azzurro said:
Is this correct: Amp is wired with the BATT connection connected to the +ve terminal of car battery, GND is grounded to the vehicle chassis, and remote is somehow connected to ACC. With ACC at 0V, the amplifier is completely off. When ACC hits 12V, the amplifier powers itself up. Where is the thumping noise coming from? The amplifier has to turn on sometime, right, so am I correct in assuming that this noise is only a factor if the amplifier is turned on immediately when the car is started? This is the only way that I can think of that makes sense, because the actual REM intput is probably a relay in itself.

Now, do I want to delay the the ACC signal from getting to REM, or the amplifier's power (directly from the battery) getting to BATT? Either way seems like it would work, if I understand correctly, but the former seems like it would be much safer for the amplifier and the battery.
See above.

azzurro said:
So, the schematic I came up with for the relay & switch is below (assume BATT is connected to my d. block). Is that what I need? I won't need to access this switch unless the computer crashes violently, which I hope won't be often, so I could hide the switch up front, and turn it off if I bring the car in for service or something. :bigSmile:

Pins 85 and 86 go to Opus' 12V output (see above). This output can be found in the molex power connector, 1 of which is made external on the case. Pins 30 and 87 can be reversed, so you're not sending any power to pin 87a when the relay is not tirggered.

Also, put a diode parallel to pins 85 and 86. Have it wired the following way:
Code:
Black    Yellow
 (-)        (+)
-----|>|-----
azzurro said:
Actually, cutting ACC to the Opus in the event of a crash probably won't be too helpful if the shutdown delay is set for a long time, right? Not a big deal anyways.
No big deal there. I virutally never have to deal with those.

azzurro said:
Ahh ok. Do you happen to know if there are any tutorials on how to do this? I can't imagine it being too hard, but I don't want to just start cutting stuff up to experiment.
Sorry, no tutorials. I can help you via PM or you can have it done for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Alright, I really don't know what I was thinking yesterday.

This should be much better:

EDIT: Made a mistake... I need to run (from the front to the trunk) an ACC wire in addition to the wire connected directly to the battery, right? If I were to do what I have below, then would the system be always on, all the time, unless the switch is open?



Is the wiring safe? I realize that some of the wire (eg. 2 awg from the battery) is overkill [2 awg with a 50 amp fuse... lol], but it can't hurt, and I plan on adding two more amps in the future anyways. Is there anything wrong with 16 awg for all my ACC lines? Am I OK fused at one amp?

Looking at the diagram, it seems that putting the switch in the trunk is the easiest. Is this where you have it? It would be nice to be able to switch everything off from the driver's seat, but that shouldn't be a big deal, right?

I can't think of any other questions for the moment. Almost ready to buy :)

Anything else I should know?

Thanks as usual!
 

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Just one correction. The switch for Opus Ign and Amp remote goes to the ACC line instead of the D block. You would want your system to turn off automatically when you turn the car off.

For ACC wires, except 25WT PSU, you can get away with 18-gauge and higher. There's very little current draw. They're only used as triggers. The relay doesn't have to be a high-power automotive one. For my setup, I used a 12V mini relay found at radio shack. It is very little, so it doesn't require any special mounting. It's just taped along the wiring.

There are 2, actually 3, switches in the front. The main one (kill switch) is located in the passenger fuse panel. It cuts off battery power to the system. I use it if I have to get some work done. I could also pull the fuse under the hood for the same effect. Second is under the arm rest. It is the same thing as you have above. Third is also under the arm rest. This is what I call as a "home mode" switch. If I flip it over, it keeps the system running when the car is off.
 

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forza italia
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
vlad_a said:
Just one correction. The switch for Opus Ign and Amp remote goes to the ACC line instead of the D block. You would want your system to turn off automatically when you turn the car off.

For ACC wires, except 25WT PSU, you can get away with 18-gauge and higher. There's very little current draw. They're only used as triggers. The relay doesn't have to be a high-power automotive one. For my setup, I used a 12V mini relay found at radio shack. It is very little, so it doesn't require any special mounting. It's just taped along the wiring.

There are 2, actually 3, switches in the front. The main one (kill switch) is located in the passenger fuse panel. It cuts off battery power to the system. I use it if I have to get some work done. I could also pull the fuse under the hood for the same effect. Second is under the arm rest. It is the same thing as you have above. Third is also under the arm rest. This is what I call as a "home mode" switch. If I flip it over, it keeps the system running when the car is off.
Beat me to it... I was showing someone the drawing, and explaining what it did, when I realized that I made a mistake. I was editing my post, but you had already posted before I could finish.

This is coming together nicely. Thanks for all the help! You'll be getting an e-mail this weekend hopefully :)
 

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forza italia
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
One more question just popped into my head:

vlad, are you getting any FM or AM radio in your car? I don't plan on listening too much, but I think that it is useful to have.

I know that you can hook up an external antenna to the RadioShark, but I read a complaint somewhere that sound quality was terrible, even when connected to the car's stock antenna :confused:
 

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forza italia
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1,563 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
OK, new wiring diagram. Will this work? I'm thinking of doing an on-off switch in the front of the car, and the "home mode" switch in the trunk. I will use 18 guage for the ACC lines (didn't update the drawing in that respect).




If both switches are closed at the same time, and the car is on, will this be a problem?

How are these Radioshack parts?

12VDC/1A SPDT Micro Relay
$4.29
Catalog #: 275-241

• Coil Rating: 12VDC, 37.5mA 320 Ohm
• SPDT 1A at 125VAC
• Size: 1-1/32x3/8x1/4"
Micro 1A Diodes
$0.59
Catalog #: 276-1101

30A surge. Type 1N4001. Peak Inverse Voltage (PV) is 50. Package of 2.
I'm currently acquiring parts from all over the place. (Already placed my order for the DIY kit, Xenarc screen, and 25W DC/DC converter from CarCPU :)).

I bought an Audigy 2NX from a local shop and am listening to some music on my laptop with it right now. Sounds pretty good!

Will I need to chop up the cord coming from the AC adapter to the Audigy? I would rather not do that... is there any standardization for the male end at the end of the adapter that goes into the device?

If I need to cut the wire... what is the plastic-encased cylinder near the end of the line? Is that a fuse in case the transformer goes haywire? If it is, I should cut after it, and then fuse the line from the molex connector?

One more question: how did you affix the Audigy and your amp to the back of the trunk?

Thanks as usual :)
 

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azzurro said:
One more question just popped into my head:

vlad, are you getting any FM or AM radio in your car? I don't plan on listening too much, but I think that it is useful to have.

I know that you can hook up an external antenna to the RadioShark, but I read a complaint somewhere that sound quality was terrible, even when connected to the car's stock antenna :confused:
No AM or FM for me because I never listen to it. I'd put RadioShark in my car if I had the need. It has a nice time-shifting feature. However, if I was really after music over the air, I'd get XM PCR and do an optical-out MOD to get the best sound quality.

RadioShark has no external antenna input. The jack on the back of it is for headphones / aux-out. By itself, it sends audio digitally through USB.
 
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