Lexus IS Forum banner

61 - 80 of 99 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
token solutions O2 sim problems

i have an 03 IS300 and i installed the token solutions 02 sim and my car is still running like shit and i check engine light keeps coming back on even after replacing existing O2 sensors, kinda gettin pretty pissed, any ideas anyone?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,403 Posts
i have an 03 IS300 and i installed the token solutions 02 sim and my car is still running like shit and i check engine light keeps coming back on even after replacing existing O2 sensors, kinda gettin pretty pissed, any ideas anyone?
are you just throwing parts at it, or have you checked the code?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
i havent had a chance to check codes yet been working, actully installed it and o2 sensors at work, the only reason i thought it may have been at least one o2 sensor is becuase all were new but 1 and check engine light didnt come on until i put the headers and full exhaust on, and it didnt run like shit unless the o2 sensor was pluged into the rear plug at the rear of the valve cover, runs good without anything pluged into that rear plug, check engine light just stays on, thought it might have been a vaccum leak since i was missing the hose running from the intake to the valve cover, just had a filter on the valve cover side, i will try after work to see if that was the problem, bu with my headers i put them on then realized that on the rear 3 cylinders there is one o2 sensor and 2 sensors on the front 3, after i installed them i noticed i couldnt get the rear sensor in due to interference with the firewall so the 2 o2 sensor under hood are reading off the front 3 cylinders, didnt think that would effect anything though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,782 Posts
after i installed them i noticed i couldnt get the rear sensor in due to interference with the firewall so the 2 o2 sensor under hood are reading off the front 3 cylinders, didnt think that would effect anything though
You are experiencing what turbo members experience when they put B1S1 and B2S1 in the same down-pipe. The OE ECU is more like two ECUs, and now having each sensor in essentially the same stream, things get ugly.

You need to fix the B2S1 location, or splice the two sensors together- there are a few write-ups on how to do this. When I was in this situation, I fixed the B2S1 location, there is a reason the OEs have two primary sensors, one for each bank. IMO splicing is a compromise when nothing else can be done to keep B1S1 and B2S1 in their respective banks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
or what i need to do is get a 90 degree adapter, pull the headers out and screw into the rear bank o2 bung so i can put the B1S2 in the rear bank, then plug the front o2 bung, and that will keep the CEL light off and stop the car from spitting and sputtering?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,782 Posts
P0051- B2S1 heater circuit high= heater circuit probably shorted.

so what i pretty much need to do is take the rear plug (B1S1??) and splice it into the wires that my O2 sim plugs into?
No.

or what i need to do is get a 90 degree adapter, pull the headers out and screw into the rear bank o2 bung so i can put the B1S2 in the rear bank
No, this will throw another type of CEL, or possibly negatively effect the tune.

There is an old thread of mine where you take the header off, have a hole drilled, have a $1.00 bung welded on and have the car operate as intended.

There is also the "band aid" that doesn't ALWAYS eliminate the CEL of cutting the deleted primary (read here: NOTHING to do with the PNP Delete) sensor's wire's at the ECU, and tap the ECU side wires into the other functioning primary o2 sensor's wires (o2 and heater).

Reading now that you have a B1S2 heater fault, I am going to assume that you either have that sensor un-plugged from the harness, or you have a faulty heater and need the sensor replaced, or should do the wire splice mod.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
ok, so it sounds like if i just weld a new bung on i will be good so i will proceed down that route then i will put the o2 sensor in the bank 2 headers and plug the sensor back up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,782 Posts
Its un-fortunate, but a lot of the affordable headers out there have a bogus B1S2 location, but its not that hard of a fix. IMO it is best to keep both primary o2s functioning in their appropriate banks. This keeps the dual ECU intended function intact, giving a higher level of accuracy in o2 feedback and correction per bank. This also allows for various OBDII trouble logics to stay in tact, possibly saving your engine in the future. I have even seen someone rather than splice primary o2s in a downpipe, drill holes and put in bungs in their tubular turbo manifold to keep this feature in tact. IMO wise thing to do, allowing for proper a/f correction in changing VE environments and allowing OBDII to indicate to you if a certain bank is having an issue, such as a stuck injector.

Did you have the B1S2 un-plugged? If not you may need it replaced as the heater is faulty. To save money you do not need to buy a PNP one from the dealership, but a universal splice-in one- I have those on my site.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
well, I've had my Mazzuri V1 header and y-pipe on since March, and the car has been running rich, Trac light flashing, and check engine light on, I have the codes, don't feel like looking them up in my phone where I took pics of the scan tool's display. I ordered the O2 sensor sim back in March, but it's been sitting in a box behind the driver's seat since I received it. Well, today I finally decided to plug it up, mind you I've been experiencing very loud backfiring upon sudden deceleration (quickly removing my foot off the accelerator pedal) ever since the header and y-pipe install and O2 and AFR sensor removal. When I buried the accelerator pedal, especially hard on the interstate to open it up after downshifting, I always left a cloud of smoke behind me, and my rear bumper and trunk were always covered with oily soot. Well, plugged up the O2 sensor sim, started the car, same lights were on the dash, although it started up smoother this time, unplugged the battery for 20 mins, plugged it back up, started the car, no dash lights, took it out for a spin, ahhh.....finally, the car doesn't backfire, well, it actually does ever slightly, but no more shotgun blasts....I've known the issue, had the product, just never installed it. Great product. Hopefully my gas mileage will improve now also, it was running pig rich, i was getting TERRIBLE gas mileage before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Finally a solution for us turbo guys with no room on downpipe to install a cat lol.....

Lol no room, effin Mass emissions nazis
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Ive had similar problems and codes thrown. Turned out I had the front plugs plugged in the wrong location. The front 2 plugs belong to B1S1 and B1S2. The one near the exhaust valve cover is B2S1. The plug at the top front is B1S2. I got those right and all my codes went away and the car purrs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Just ordered mine today and cannot wait to get that bad boy in cause I am sick of looking at that flippin CEL!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Put this little bad boy in last Friday it was a piece of cake. I think it took about an hour and that was mostly because I couldn't figure out where I wanted to mount it. So far I have driven 120 miles and have not seen a CEL at all! This product is fantastic and the seller is a great guy. If you have some cels due to b1 and b2 s2's get this and save yourself some cash in the future!
 
61 - 80 of 99 Posts
Top