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my friend accidently drove my car when i had the rear o2 sensor wire hanging down. and since my car is ridiciously low. the wires are shredded.


should I just soder the wires back or buy one of these?

I do have a CEL
 

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I'll add to the list of happy customers. I've driven about 15k and now CEL's. Solid product!
 

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I just received mine and about to install with new headers. I have had a CEL on for over a year due to failing cats. I will deff leave my feedback shortly.
 

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Id say TS is the only option ..........Happy customer and 20K+ with pnp o2 sim installed
 

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This thread is making my week!

I am curious if peeps are interested in a slightly more affordable option of a "flying lead" version. Its the same internals, same box etc, but rather than two wires with connectors going to either o2 connector making it PNP, instead have one wire loom that is "flying lead" that one runs into the ECU box (sim box to stay outside) to be manually wired in? Cost would be in the $110 shipped range.
 

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For those not afraid to solder their OE ECU wires (maybe already running a patch harness) it is a more affordable route, its the same internally short of some wiring configuration changes (no need to run two different cables). Run the wire through the bottom ECU grommet, keep the module external, clean.
 

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i'll get this next time i get a CEL
 

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Installed the headers and PnP and no CELs!!!! first time since i have owned the car!!! Recommended!!
 

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I am having a slight problem with my 02 IS300

I just installed the PnP o2 simulator from tokensolutions. After the install.. the CEL went away. Of course cause i resetted the ecu by taking off the battery for about 30-40 minutes. i installed 2 bungs to plug the holes from where the sensors were. After 2 days, the CEL came back on after 100-130 miles of driving around. Got the car scanned

P0156 B2S2
P0136 B1S2

The same exact codes i had before the o2 sim install..

any suggestions to why and how this happened. If anyone have a solution. I greatly appreciate it!!

thanks
 

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Those are circuit malfunction codes- pretty serious in the sense that you had them both before the sim, and after. This means what you had before was not slow response, or heater codes, or lack of cat codes, but more likely a wiring flaw in the OE harness and/or ECU-- as this code is more for circuit readings FAR out of spec (such as a complete open or short). Since this product is plug and play from the o2 sensor connector-on, any flaw in the OE harness from the ECU to the sensor connector is still in play.

What work has been done to your car? Did you buy it used? Does your harness look altered? Has a piggy or standalone been installed and/or removed? Salvage title?
 

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Those are circuit malfunction codes- pretty serious in the sense that you had them both before the sim, and after. This means what you had before was not slow response, or heater codes, or lack of cat codes, but more likely a wiring flaw in the OE harness and/or ECU-- as this code is more for circuit readings FAR out of spec (such as a complete open or short). Since this product is plug and play from the o2 sensor connector-on, any flaw in the OE harness from the ECU to the sensor connector is still in play.

What work has been done to your car? Did you buy it used? Does your harness look altered? Has a piggy or standalone been installed and/or removed? Salvage title?
the only thing i've done tot he car is

aem short ram intake
HP racing race headers
Apexi WS1 catback exhaust

before any of this happens.. i had CEL due to B2S2.. i bought a new denso o2 sensor for it.. Nomore CEL for like 3 weeks of non-stop driving.. then CEL came back on B1S2.. so then i started to search for alternative options and was introduced to the token solutions PnP o2 simulators.. I bought it and had it professional installed..took out both B1S2 and B2S2 sensors and replaced it with screwed on bungs to sensors locations and took out the battery for like 30-40 minutes to reset the ECU. No CEL after that.. Once i started the car. no rough idle of any sorts.. but driving. i felt a the difference but thats due to system was relearning.. So I drove around normally from NJ to NY (about 20-30 miles straight highway).. not a hard stepper on the gas. i remember after the partying at night. I did hit the throttle a bit hard from 40-80mph on the highway which the CEL came back on.. I dont know if that has anything to do with all this. I dont know if the system was still relearning and i throttled it harder than usual. But in my terms.. i don't think that has anything to do with why the CEL came back on when i downshifted and gave it a harder throttle than usual.

My car carries a clean title. nothing wrong with my car in any ways. If anything. i can bring the car to the shop and have them check for leaks through the pipping but i highly doubt theres any leaks..

i pretty much explain everything with the best of my ability.. hope you can solve it for me or guide to a solution.. thanks
 

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So your car was CEL free for the longest time, then B2S2 went out, then shortly after B1S2, and both the circuit fault code?

I would ensure the connectors are connected to the actual B1S2 and B2S2 connectors, and not the primary. You can also send the sim back for testing/replacement. If you or the mechanic are savvy with a multimeter, the testing can be done on your end by either typed instruction or over the phone.
 

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So your car was CEL free for the longest time, then B2S2 went out, then shortly after B1S2, and both the circuit fault code?

I would ensure the connectors are connected to the actual B1S2 and B2S2 connectors, and not the primary. You can also send the sim back for testing/replacement. If you or the mechanic are savvy with a multimeter, the testing can be done on your end by either typed instruction or over the phone.
heres the thing.. i bought the car with the header mods already installed on the car. the CEL was on due to the B2S2 so i replaced then No CEL.. after awhile B1S2 came on..

also.. the ECU was untouched.. so i dont think its the wiring.
 

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Hey guys, I'm the installer for Snoopee's O2 sim.

Here are a few pics of how I mounted it and the bungs used to block off the O2s. Everything was plugged in and zip tied away from any hot surfaces.









What should I be looking for as far as voltage/continuity/resistance in the harness?

-Freddy
 

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There are variables involved here. The car is used, and came with the headers, so the assumption/variable #1 was that the code is due to missing cats, and not a circuit fault to begin with, or it was a cat code at first, but you have assumed it was the circuit malfunction code after reading the code after the B2S2 replacement.

Variable #2, maybe the previous owner had an o2 sim, clipped it out and sold it? Open the ECU cover and inspect.

Variable #3, when you replaced B2S2, did you reset the ECU? This could have restarted the diagnostic and now through chance determined a fault with B1S2 as again, both wires may be cut at the ECU.

Tip-in, driving style, bung plugs etc have nothing else to do with this.

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Solutions
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As previously mentioned-
#1 inspect harness as best as possible, with emphasis on the two o2 signal wires at the ECU- I can email ECU pinnout if need be, though a "chip style" o2 sim tutorial would also work.

#2 Either send the unit back to me, or call me with meter in hand, unit opened yet still plugged in (ensure to not ground the circuit board to anything) to do just one or two readings to determine if the circuit is getting power, and/or what it's output is.

--- Either there is an issue with your car, or in transit something happened to the sim (as I bench every signal one that heads out personally) and in which case you'll have it repaired/replaced-- by doing the above solutions, this will be fixed.
 
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