Lexus IS Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,582 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
------======\ STORY /======------



I purchased a "HYPER VOLTAGE SYSTEM" made by SUN AUTO of Japan back when I was N/A. (http://www.sunautomobile.com/) I installed it and ran with it for a few thousand miles and then I took it off after the turbo went on and its been sitting in my garage ever since. To be honest, I didn't notice any power gains. I guess it would also be hard to say that my stereo sounded better either. I almost threw it away a few months back when I cleaned out my garage. We had a Chicago Dyno meet in November and I brought it along to see if it actually makes power like they say it does.



------======\ PRODUCT INFO /======------



This is from their website:



What is it?
Hyper Voltage System is a product that is designed to help stabilize voltage from your vehicle’s battery for enhanced electrical system efficiency. Allowing your battery to operate more efficiently will help your vehicle operate at its full potential, helping to restore power, increase fuel efficiency, lengthen battery life, reduce emissions, etc.
Basically, when Hyper Voltage System is installed it stores energy from your battery and releases it as necessary to stabilize voltage for increased electrical system efficiency. Whereas Hyper Ground System increases efficiency by providing an ultra low-resistance ground path, Hyper Voltage System increases efficiency by helping to provide a constant and stabilized energy supply from the battery. Hyper Voltage System is designed to work in conjunction with Hyper Ground System, although each separate product is effective by itself.

How does is work?
Your vehicle’s battery is designed to hold a charge of energy and release it to all the electrical components as necessary. However, with multiple systems demanding for energy from the battery simultaneously, the power from the battery can be used faster than the battery can supply. This causes the voltage from the battery to fluctuate and reduces electrical system efficiency.
The engineering team at Sun Automobile designed Hyper Voltage System specifically for its purpose: researching, developing, and testing to bring the best product available to the market. Installing Hyper Voltage System to your battery will help to keep voltage constant for increased efficiency, allowing electrical components to operate at their peak potential. By increasing efficiency, power that is otherwise lost can be restored; response can be increased, while increasing fuel mileage, reducing emissions, lengthening battery life, etc.

How much horsepower/torque will I gain with Hyper Voltage System?
As with any product, the amount of benefit gained will vary between applications. Some applications we have tested have gained 16+ horsepower, but the average gain seems to be between 3-6 horsepower. Hyper Voltage System is not a product that is used to boost your vehicles power; it is designed to stabilize voltage in the electrical system to help your vehicle operate at its full potential. When used together with the Hyper Ground System, your electrical system will have the ability to maintain peak efficiency for improved performance. One thing to consider is that virtually 100% of our customers are completely satisfied with their Hyper Voltage System purchase, and simply amazed that such a simple addition could help their vehicle perform so much better.




------======\ TESTING /======------



So, basically they are claiming 3-6 HP gain. I thought "There is no way that bolting this thing onto my battery is actually going to gain me HP. If anything it might make less power because its drawing from the battery."

So, there is only one way to find out. Baseline dyno. Then Bolt-on the Hyper Voltage System and dyno again. If it makes power, I'm wrong.



BASELINE DYNO HP: 297RWHP
DYNO AFTER H.V.S.: 300RWHP

BASELINE DYNO TQ: 295RWTQ
DYNO AFTER H.V.S.: 297RWTQ



------======\ CONCLUSION /======------


I am wrong.
This thing made 3 hp just like they claim. I am in disbelief. But it works. Not only did it make power, but it made power all the way through the power band from 2K all the way up to 6K. For all you N.A. guys that are trying to squeeze every HP outta thier car, this product might be for you. I got mine on ebay I think back in the day, I can't remember. But you figure an Intake is at least $250. and your only going to gain like 3-6RWHP on that. So even if you bought a H.V.S. brand new, they are like $150 and you gain the same as an Intake which is the most common mod I think you will find. Also, if you are an Automatic, I think you will find additional benefits. Your shifting should also be smoother since its controlled electronically.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
damn i might have to get TWO of them!!! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,098 Posts
Great write up +rep,I purchased my H.V. MR(the black one) 1 year ago and I know that it just wasent my butt dyno but I felt a change on the way the car drove,shifting is smother and I noticed more power.Oh yeah +rep :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,591 Posts
Great info. + rep.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,782 Posts
Increasing electrical effeciency/maintained voltage/current in theory would help spark, and better spark will get you a better burn and more power, but I'm surprised that the OEM settup could benifit from that glorified shunt filter, but the write up makes this thing a more enticing buy.

Like I wrote in the other thread, peeps who do actually overwhelm the stock electrical set up with either audio equipment and/or fuel booster pumps that cut on and off (Imanage, PCS) and swap out to those itsi tiny "race" batterys could probably benifit even more from this.

Good write up. Awesome you backed it up with a dyno. Jay, I talked to Jack Mac a few days back about their/his drift IS 300 project. Pretty cool stuff. TE is just dominating lately.

Oh yeah, plus rep.

B.
 

·
Not Officially Back
Joined
·
12,742 Posts
Did you record any other information other than the dyno? air temps? Coolant temps? timing?

Also, why do you have smoothing set to 0? It adds a lot of variation to the graph and can change a 3 hp gain into a 1.5...

+/-3 hp is a very small amount, and it's very easy for power levels to vary that much simply due to temperature variations. Unless all other variables are documented and presented with the dyno, you really can't make a decision on a product's useful from a 3rwhp difference.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,582 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
dasgalloway said:
Did you record any other information other than the dyno? air temps? Coolant temps? timing?

Also, why do you have smoothing set to 0? It adds a lot of variation to the graph and can change a 3 hp gain into a 1.5...

+/-3 hp is a very small amount, and it's very easy for power levels to vary that much simply due to temperature variations. Unless all other variables are documented and presented with the dyno, you really can't make a decision on a product's useful from a 3rwhp difference.
The smoothing was set to 0 on accident. I guess the guy runnin' the dyno didn't correct it. I realized it after everything was done. I agree it makes it harder to tell with the smoothing, but you can tell throughout the whole band, there is an increase. The new line is always above the old one regardless of smoothing.

Also, we just got done doing some pretty hard highway runs. I pulled up right on the dyno, strapped it down and started testing. So, these numbers are from a very warm car. There wasn't any cooling down time, we did both runs right away. The only reason why we did this is because so many people were going after me, we wanted to get as many done as possible since I was first.
 

·
Not Officially Back
Joined
·
12,742 Posts
JayMarino said:
The smoothing was set to 0 on accident. I guess the guy runnin' the dyno didn't correct it. I realized it after everything was done. I agree it makes it harder to tell with the smoothing, but you can tell throughout the whole band, there is an increase. The new line is always above the old one regardless of smoothing.

Also, we just got done doing some pretty hard highway runs. I pulled up right on the dyno, strapped it down and started testing. So, these numbers are from a very warm car. There wasn't any cooling down time, we did both runs right away. The only reason why we did this is because so many people were going after me, we wanted to get as many done as possible since I was first.
I've seen many dynos vary by 2-5 whp simply as the car got hotter or colder with no change in mods at all. My own car varies 30 whp with a 10 minute cool down. During our testing of the dragger, I recorded an increase of +3 whp between runs simply because the car warmed up a bit more after being strapped down. It wasn't until I saw repeated results until I decided it was a valid run.

I can give you a graph showing 2 dynos that are 3 whp apart on the same NA car, same day, same dyno, same exact mods... without recording all the other relevant data it's very hard to draw any conclusions.

Do you happen to have the raw dyno files? If so we can replot them and correct the smoothing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,582 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
dasgalloway said:
Do you happen to have the raw dyno files? If so we can replot them and correct the smoothing.
I don't. I might be able to get them though. I'll work on it tomorrow.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
3,369 Posts
Just for entertainment value, rewind to April 2004:-

hkis said:
I think either the Hyper or the Type MR on its own plus the Hotwires will give the most thrust. I had the Type MR on its own for a while and it gave markedly better throttle response plus a tiny fraction of top end power increase. The Hyper, being the new flagship model, apparently does the same thing but better and also caters for the full rev range rather than just top end. The Hyper also has new connectors for connecting ground wires and in fact comes with a single ground wire for connecting it to the engine.
dasgalloway said:
I'll tell you what hkis... ship me one of these kits and I'll do the writeup and research on it, get it on the dyno, etc... and we'll see if it actually gains power.

I'll post up the results and retract all my statements if its true.
hkis said:
I'd let you have one of these things for free, seriously, if I had the spare cash! But since I'm not out to prove anything here (which has been the case starting from day one but none of you critics have managed to comprehend), then so be it. Peace!
dasgalloway said:
Hehe interesting.. if you're not out to prove anything why do you post up how great these things are every time someone mentions them?

I'm out to prove something... no bones about it. I do not think these things do what the manufacturer claims (and you regurgitate on a regular basis). I'd love to get my hands on one of these and test it...
Those were the days - my newbie introduction. :lol:

Oh, I should say that the model Jay tested is like 5 years old and has been superceded by a number of newer versions. These new ones yield more power (for those who believe me).

But, and this is a big but, I should admit that my ECU got fried from using these things during these years. This is one of the reasons why I decided to part with my IS. And I'm not the only one. There have been others here in HK who have had fried ECU's due to using these things in the long-run. So be warned! ;)

Edit: I nearly forgot, +rep to Jay!
 

·
Not Officially Back
Joined
·
12,742 Posts
hkis said:
But, and this is a big but, I should admit that my ECU got fried from using these things during these years. This is one of the reasons why I decided to part with my IS. And I'm not the only one. There have been others here in HK who have had fried ECU's due to using these things in the long-run. So be warned! ;)
Wow, thanks for chiming in. +rep!

A fried ECU is definitely not worth 1-3 hp. :blush:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,582 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
hkis said:
But, and this is a big but, I should admit that my ECU got fried from using these things during these years.....
Didn't you have 2 bolted on?
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
3,369 Posts
JayMarino said:
Didn't you have 2 bolted on?
Yes, at some point. Had the Type-MR initially. Then added the Type-Hyper. Then took off the Type-MR to sell it. Sun Auto actually recommended having both bolted on for the best effect.

But regardless of having 1 or 2, there have been cases of resultant fried ECU's after prolonged use.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top