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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok, so i finished my HG install today and tried to start the car, here are the problems (car did start and ran until we shut it off, we started it 3 times):

1. at initial start up, when i crank the ignition, there is a pretty loud metal to metal contact sounding screech coming from the engine. but, my friends he thinks it sounds more like the belt is slipping.
this only occurs at start up.

2. then, car idles really rough and runs like sh*t and few seconds later, CEL comes on with a flashing TRAC.

3. fuel leaking from the fuel pressure sensor tap (i will take care of that) there was a puddle of fuel around the sensor. would this be causing the rough idle?

4. when i revved the engine, there is a whirring sound.

thanks for helping.

here is the video (all the vacuum hoses are not organized yet because car is under testing mode) oh, and dont worry about the intercooler because we putted it back on afterwards and it still runs the same.
 

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Are you sure that your timing is correct? Fix your fuel leak, check the timing and take things from there...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i am sure my timing is correct because the dots and yellow mark on the crank lines up perfect. however, it does sound like a timing issue so its either the injectors or the spark plug?? at this point, without scanning it i really cant know what is going on.
 

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TDLI said:
ok, so i finished my HG install today and tried to start the car, here are the problems (car did start and ran until we shut it off, we started it 3 times):

1. at initial start up, when i crank the ignition, there is a pretty loud metal to metal contact sounding screech coming from the engine. but, my friends he thinks it sounds more like the belt is slipping.
this only occurs at start up.
The whining noise is your timing belt idler pulley. It's basically worn and the extra tension from the headgasket is putting more stress on it.

2. then, car idles really rough and runs like sh*t and few seconds later, CEL comes on with a flashing TRAC.
Find out what code is being thrown. Make sure the coils are on correctly, make sure the ignitor isn't lose. Make sure all the wiring harnesses are also on correctly and nothing is lose.

3. fuel leaking from the fuel pressure sensor tap (i will take care of that) there was a puddle of fuel around the sensor. would this be causing the rough idle?
Not sure if that will cause the issue but make sure it's fixed ASAP.

4. when i revved the engine, there is a whirring sound.
The noise is caused by a worn timing belt idler pulley.

thanks for helping.

here is the video (all the vacuum hoses are not organized yet because car is under testing mode) oh, and dont worry about the intercooler because we putted it back on afterwards and it still runs the same.
Let me know if you need anymore help.
 

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I think we discussed this last night TDLI.
What'd you find when you connected the rest of the stuff?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
SophieSleeps, everything (intercooler and crossover pipe) was connected back on the car after we talked and after i resetted the ECU the car still ran the same way

meanwhile, i really dont think my timing is off because i am sure the marks are lined up. plus, someone told me that that if timing is off, car probably wont even idle. in my case, the car seemed like it would have idled for as long as i left it on.

as of the fuel leak, i think i fixed it last night but i havent start the car yet to verify that.

right now, i am thinking about its either one of the injectors, spark plug or can a bad o2 sensor cause the sh*tty idle?

another question i have is about the loud metal to metal contact sound at start up (at least thats what i think it sounds like). assuming if it is coming from the camshaft grinding against the camshaft cap or the head (because maybe i didnt lube it enough?) or maybe even the lobe and the valve cap, would i have heard this sound when i was turning the crank by hand? because i heard no such sound when i was turning it by hand.

thanks guys.
 

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TDLI said:
SophieSleeps, everything (intercooler and crossover pipe) was connected back on the car after we talked and after i resetted the ECU the car still ran the same way

meanwhile, i really dont think my timing is off because i am sure the marks are lined up. plus, someone told me that that if timing is off, car probably wont even idle. in my case, the car seemed like it would have idled for as long as i left it on.

as of the fuel leak, i think i fixed it last night but i havent start the car yet to verify that.

right now, i am thinking about its either one of the injectors, spark plug or can a bad o2 sensor cause the sh*tty idle?

another question i have is about the loud metal to metal contact sound at start up (at least thats what i think it sounds like). assuming if it is coming from the camshaft grinding against the camshaft cap or the head (because maybe i didnt lube it enough?) or maybe even the lobe and the valve cap, would i have heard this sound when i was turning the crank by hand? because i heard no such sound when i was turning it by hand.

thanks guys.
You wouldn't have heard it if you turned it back by hand unless you can spin the crank fast enough. I had the same problem too, the metal to metal sound. Took the car out for a quick ride and built enough oil pressure to lube up the cams and noise went down.
 

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definitely agree with lambchop on the lubrification, as far as timing, you could be just a tooth off and not really notice the timing difference, but there is one - As far as 02 problem, you run @ initial startup on a closed loop, so your ecu doesn't use any sensors, then when it warms up you're in open loop, where the ecu checks all the sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
TeckniX said:
As far as 02 problem, you run @ initial startup on a closed loop, so your ecu doesn't use any sensors, then when it warms up you're in open loop, where the ecu checks all the sensors.
so you are saying the o2 sensor wouldn't have caused this?
 

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TeckniX said:
definitely agree with lambchop on the lubrification, as far as timing, you could be just a tooth off and not really notice the timing difference, but there is one - As far as 02 problem, you run @ initial startup on a closed loop, so your ecu doesn't use any sensors, then when it warms up you're in open loop, where the ecu checks all the sensors.
Other way around.

And TDLI,
do what I said. Stop guessing. The car is throwing a code trying to tell you what's wrong. You need to get it read. There's no better way.
You can let everyone else on the board take wild guesses if you want.
 

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initial startup is on open loop.

CEL with a flashing TRAC is multiple (most likely multiple) cylinder misfire. I can guarantee you on that. That is why it idles rough and the TRAC keeps flashing. Make sure when you put the belt back on, the crank and cylinder #1 was at TDC then slipped the belt on to its correct cam gear markings. check your plugs, coils and see if its damaged or fried, and do a quick compression test to see if there are any leaks, open valves etc.
 

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AltezzaBob said:
initial startup is on open loop.

CEL with a flashing TRAC is multiple (most likely multiple) cylinder misfire. I can guarantee you on that. That is why it idles rough and the TRAC keeps flashing. Make sure when you put the belt back on, the crank and cylinder #1 was at TDC then slipped the belt on to its correct cam gear markings. check your plugs, coils and see if its damaged or fried, and do a quick compression test to see if there are any leaks, open valves etc.
CEl with flashing trac is not always for misfire.
I can guarantee that.

And setting timing is not as simple as setting Cyl 1 to TDC and lining up timing marks. Your intake cam can be significantly off.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok i got the codes read. its throwing:

1. random misfire p0300
2. misfire on 1 and 5

so, we took the plugs (1 and 5) out and tested for spark, it was ok, spark was a little weak on one of it.

then we reset the ecu and tested again and now i am also getting misfire on 4.

any idea what might be the cause?
 

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Could be tuning...your spark plug gap...weak ignition..or your spark plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
what can be the cause of a weak ignition?

another thing that we noticed was, on cyclinder 1 and 5, when we removed the plugs, the pistons looked wet whereas cyclinder 2 (not code thrown) was dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i am wondering, the plugs were supposed to be gapped at .025 for the SRT2. now that i have a 2.5mm HG, do i need to change the gap to lets say .028? or this totally makes no difference.

i have read that the HKS DLI should help too if its weak ignition. problem is, the car ran fine with the kit without the HG, so i wonder why i didnt misfire before.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
BigDaddyRich said:
If ur timing is off you gonna get a misfire and unburnt fuel in combustion chamber
i will double check on that tomorrow. thanks BDR.
 

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TDLI said:
i am wondering, the plugs were supposed to be gapped at .025 for the SRT2. now that i have a 2.5mm HG, do i need to change the gap to lets say .028? or this totally makes no difference.

i have read that the HKS DLI should help too if its weak ignition. problem is, the car ran fine with the kit without the HG, so i wonder why i didnt misfire before.
if u search around, it seems like a common problem with those SRT kits and misfiring....an ignition unit usually solves that...

I have an MSD DIS 4 that I could deliver to you this week, all wired up and ready for the IS (BRAND NEW)......let me know on AIM Brandon! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
at this point, i will be happy to try this because it would help me to either eliminate one of the possible causes of the problem or hopefully just fix the misfiring.

i will im you later on when you are not watching us open anymore. thanks marc.

brandon
 
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