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Discussion Starter #1
For those that know LTunedGirl's old car, you'll then be familiar with my car, since I purchased Shauna's car back in July. The car has been running absolutely perfect from the day I got it, but yesterday, after making a quick trip to the store, I decided to replace the positive battery terminal. I replaced the terminal, but when I started the car, I began to notice that the car was now idleing rough, stuttering when gas was applied, and my UEGO was showing a very lean mix (10.2).

The car is running a Turbo East kit with the 7th fuel injector, which has a power lead into and out of a small black box. Since my problems started after replacing the positive battery terminal, and I'm running extremely lean, I'm suspiscious that I may have done something to 7th injector. I'm throwing a CEL now, but don't have any codes to give you guys. The car is also running on Emanage, but as far as I'm aware, Emanage won't "reset" my current map after being deprived of power for any length of time.

I'm affraid to drive the car in it's current condition, so I was hoping you guys might have some suggestions. I've contacted Turbo East via email, but haven't received a reply yet. Thanks in advance for any help.

Jason
 

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alright, since its E-Manage, the settings are still saved more than likely, so that shouldnt be a problem at all. 10.2:1 is actually right in the rich spot for turbo, unless you are running like.... 20 octane gas. lol. How about this. Get a E-Manage cable, and plug it into the ECU, and see how the E-Manage is doing? If you lost settings, GL with that, and have fun getting it re-tuned, even after TE sends you a map to use.
 

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hmm... now on the PLP kit, the 7th injector had its (+) side of the injector directly to the battery and the AIC controlled the (-) side.
Check to see if when replacing your (+) side terminal, you forgot to connect a connection or see if there is a fuse on the (+) side of the injector that might have blown. That is if the TE kit 7th injector is setup in the same way.
 

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i believe when he got home with his brand new, shiney battery terminal, he shut the car off, replaced the old with a new terminal, and then re-fired her up. That is when his problem began.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Seven, you are exactly correct. I've doubled checked the connections, which all appear to be fine, but I will check again when I get home. Yes, my 7th injector appears to be setup the same way as PLP's, although I don't know if there's a fuse within the black box or on the injector. Can anyone confirm this for me?
 

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does the box pop open? If so, open it up, and take a look.
 

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Yes, make sure the injector's + terminal is hooked up to your battery. And make sure the fuse is okay, I think there is one.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the advise everyone. I've attached, taken off and re-attached the positive terminal countless times before with no problem. I used to be a MCEP certified installer, so it's not like electronics are anything new to me. I'm starting to think that I may have blown a fuse or re-attached the injector lead poorly. Turbo East just replied to my email indicating Jeff would contact me shortly, so we'll see what he has to say.
 

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Does the 7th injector use an AIC1 like the PLP kits? If so, I believe there is a fuse in there. Hopefully it's that simple.

Here's a tip for next time, when replacing the positive, or disconnecting the positive at all, always take the negative off first!! You could blow amp fuses, delicate electronics, etc.. if you remove the positive only. Cause instead of just connecting a ground wire, you're sending a surge through each and every component in the car. Most things are build to withstand the in-rush current, but small things like the AIC1 use a fuse for protection I believe.

Good luck!

Kane
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm pretty sure it's not using Split Second's AIC1 fuel injector controller. If anything, the black box between the battery and additional fuel injector appears to be a fuse of some sort, so I'll check that tonight when I'm home. Hopefully, that's the problem, otherwise I'll be looking for an auto courier to ship the car to Sound Performance in Chicago.
 

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lol, no need for that. Give me a PM, and i'll get you taken care of
 

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I have an early TurboEast stage II turbo, and am also using an auxillary injector (actually two)... I have been having some problems with my CD player, so I have been resetting the car (remove the neg, and step on brake for a minute) a few times lately, and without fail the car sputters and acts crazy for a few miles (just like you mentioned) before the ecu gets everything back in order and then the car runs fine. I suspect that the same may be happening to you.

How much have you driven the car since? Has it been more than say, 5-10 miles? If not, I say pull the neg terminal off, and hold down the brake for a minute to reset the ecu. Then drive it a bit more and see if the car straightens up.

You are not running lean. You are rich. 10.2 is on the rich side, especially for driving in a vaccuum or idling.
 

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Seven said:
alright, since its E-Manage, the settings are still saved more than likely, so that shouldnt be a problem at all. 10.2:1 is actually right in the rich spot for turbo, unless you are running like.... 20 octane gas. lol. How about this. Get a E-Manage cable, and plug it into the ECU, and see how the E-Manage is doing? If you lost settings, GL with that, and have fun getting it re-tuned, even after TE sends you a map to use.
10.2:1 is not in the right spot for a turbo. That's crazy.

At idle you should be running 14.7 with e-manage, not rich.

If there was a problem with the injector driver box, my guess is that you'd be running lean, not rich at idle. I think you guys are barking up the wrong tree backwards. This isn't a non-fuel issue, it's a too-much-fuel issue.

But I guess there's always the possibility that the injector is stuck open for some reason.

Not much you can do except for checking the CEL (pretty sure it'll say "system too rich") Reset the ECU with the neg terminal and see how it goes. If it's not right, go in with your e-manage communication cable. Take a saved copy of your map and reload it to the main unit. Sometimes e-manage loses it's settings even though you can see that they are there. Pretty stupid.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I haven't driven the car more than up and down my driveway for fear of harming the vehicle. But now that I know the car is actually running rich, and not lean, I won't be afraid to reset the ECU and take the car for a 10 mile spin.

Thanks Seven for giving me a call today. I'll let you know the outcome of my drive. Worse comes to worse, we can meet up next weekend and figure something out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No luck today resetting the ECU and driving it around. I drove approximately 15+ miles after resetting the ECU, but the car still drives like a log. Car idles at roughly 600rpm, and while maintaining constant speeds. a/f's seems to be too low for my UEGO to read. When I'm accelerating, I do momentarily see a/f's in the 14+ range, but they immediately die off to 10 and below. Car also stutters while driving at constant speeds. I have no Emanage cable, so at this point, I can't hook the sucker up to my computer and give you all some feedback.
 

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Quick ?

Does sound performance tune the Emanage on IS300s...?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yep, I'm pretty sure that Sound Performance is quite capable of tuning Emanage equiped cars. Check their Web site, I'm pretty sure they make the claim on their site.
 

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JB, your welcome ;) Not a large problem at all. Just a bad MAF. too bad those things are $$$ at the dealership.

Malek, thanks for the phone support. The cold and snow made my mind go retarted :p
 
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