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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you guys could, can you guys tell me if this is going to work? I'm planning on buying a set of Stern ST-1. And I'D REALLY APPRECIATE IT if you guys can help tell me if this is going to be a decent setup, without much work on the fenders. Any, spacers? Also, what tires size I should use. Thanks guys!!!

*18x8.5 35offset
*18X9.5 35offset

(they're used)


Here's a picture of the rims from google:




THANKS AGAIN!! AND ANY OPINIONS ARE APPRECIATED!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
^^I have done some research, but this is my first staggered set up. i've bought wheels for FWD vehicles before, but im new to this, so forgive me.

So I decided to make a sort of "guideline" for wheel fitment with offset.

This is a guideline. If you decide to stretch or squeeze tires onto a rim, you'll change clearance.

This is a guideline based on calculations from my 8.5 rear with a 42 offset.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
What I based it on: If a wheel is 1 inch wider, you will be .5 closer to the fender. It will need to be corrected by "offset" which is 25.4mm per inch. So if your wheel is 1 inch wider, half an inch needs to be corrected for with 12.7mm offset.

The setups listed below assume a normal sized tire and is the furthest you should push the wheel out.

Front wheels (With a conservative drop)
(7)..... +32
(7.5)..... +39
(8)..... +45
(8.5)..... +51

Rear Wheels ( With a partially shaved fender)
(7.5)..... +30
(8)..... +37
(8.5)..... +42
(9)..... +48
(9.5)..... +53
(10)..... +61
Please let me know if im wrong. Since the fronts are +35 that means i need 16mm spacer? and the rears are +35 i need, 18mm spacers?
 

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^Why would you need spacers? The fitment on these wheels are aggressive already. Putting those size spacers on will require more fender work. You will have to do a little fender modding as is with the +35 offsets.
 

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Get ready to do some reading. Pay attention to the VS-XX wheels being mentioned. When twestman added spacers, his specs were close to what you want. The first post explains what he did, but that's for a more aggressive setup. The process he went through for the VS-XX is in the thread...you just have to find it. Alternatively, you can just do what twestman did for the rpf1's and be done with it.

http://my.is/forums/f95/twestmans-ggp-390761/
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
^^ wow thanks man! This is really my first set of wheels, to me the wheels are ok (not to die for), but staggered and not stock, and they're affordable.

So when would you use a spacer then? with high offsets?

and what's so important about center hub rings?

Thanks for the comments!
 

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are you boosted? if not dont do staggered as this car is setup for a balanced set of wheels and the offsets are more oriented towards fwd vehicles
 

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you're gonna be fine with no spacers. you have plenty of room away from the suspension. unless you want to be doing more fender work then stop asking about spacers! lol

hubcentric rings are important so that you're original hub bore will match with your new wheels. i.e. your wheels may have a 73mm hub bore but ours are 60.1mm. so then a hubcentric ring installed in the center of your wheels would make them 60.1

i'd say go with 215/40s up front and 245/35 out back like twestman
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
anyways thanks guys for the info, ends up that after committing to purchasing the wheels, dood ends up selling it to someone else...what a flaker... and again THANKS GUYS FOR THE HELP!!!! :p
 

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i think he was a little confused about the spacers. what i think he was asking was since that guide lists a "good" fitment as 8.5 +51 fronts and 9.5 +53 rears, and since the wheels he was looking at were 8.5 +35 and 9.5 +35, did that mean he needed 16mm and 18mm spacers, respectively?

NO, exact opposite. (and for the wheel gurus, i KNOW its not the spokes whose position is determined by the offset, i'll be referring to the "spokes" for simplicity).

the spacers make the wheels stick out even MORE. +51 instead of the +35 you were looking at means the spokes are 51mm away from the dead center of the wheel, towards the OUTER part of the rim (thus causing a smaller lip compared to the exact same rim with a +35 offset). a spacer is exactly what it sounds like. a piece of metal in the shape of a circle that you mount onto the care BEFORE you mount the wheel. so the size of your spacer is the amount of millimeters the wheel will stick out more than if you didn't have the spacer.

if the wheels you're looking at getting wont fit because they stick out too much, then you would need a HIGHER offset. lets say you did +42 instead of +35. what that means is that the spokes will be 7mm CLOSER to the outer edge of the rim, thus making the lip size 7mm smaller (while the actual width of the rim is still the same).

what those offset numbers mean is how many millimeters off from the dead center of the rim the spokes are. thus, the LOWER the offset (assuming the wheel width stays the same), the more the wheel will stick out and the larger the lip will be.

PLEASSSSE tell me if there's any part of that you dont understand, i'd be more than happy to try and explain it a different way
 
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