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Yep back again about my build there’s so many forged rods out there from $300-1900 I see your paying for the name brands as like anything . My question is forged steel is forged steel right 4340 , I’m really not looking to go with China CX ones but lower $4-500 eagle rods are still forged vs higher priced bigger name brand . Also not sure why haters are complaining about my threads about my build ? I’m doing extensive research and asking questions is the best thing to do when one doesn’t know too much about this ? All in all I want a reliable built engine and am hoping my fellow IS300 pals can shed some light thanks
 

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Yep back again about my build there’s so many forged rods out there from $300-1900 I see your paying for the name brands as like anything . My question is forged steel is forged steel right 4340 , I’m really not looking to go with China CX ones but lower $4-500 eagle rods are still forged vs higher priced bigger name brand .
Listen, you are just asking us to tell you its OK to buy lower priced parts. Your statement that forged steel is forged steel is redundant in as of itself. Of course it is. Just buy whatever you can afford. Its the reason not everyone runs an hks t51r.

Also not sure why haters are complaining about my threads about my build ? I’m doing extensive research and asking questions is the best thing to do when one doesn’t know too much about this ? All in all I want a reliable built engine and am hoping my fellow IS300 pals can shed some light thanks
Let me try to explain. You come in here asking questions about a car that's AT BEST 14 years old. Not exactly the latest and greatest...though it has dat mad tyte toojayz33 engine y0! On a car thats so old people have done everything to it already. Remember, you are walking the path now that many walked in 2001-2005 and then some. Use the search function. Research needs to include searching and self learning beyond just asking questions.

And third, you have created two or three threads asking basically the same questions. It is appreciated that people confine their questions to one or two threads let alone create 3 about the same thing.

The search function will aid you in your research into these old cars. Remember, before firing off a question, search around the forums, chances are it has already been answered in the 19 years they been around. Welcome and good luck.
 

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This is "4340":

CHEMICAL ANALYSIS
C% Carbon 0.38 – 0.43
Mn% Manganese 0.6 – 0.8 max
P% Phosphorus 0.035 max
S% Sulfur 0.040 max
Si% Silicon 0.15 – 0.3
Ni% Nickel 1.65 – 2.0
Cr% Chromium 0.7 – 0.9
Mo% Molybdenum 0.2 – 0.3

The balance is iron (Fe)...

Note there is an acceptable tolerance for all of the various elements. So, 4340 varies from one batch to the next. The best steel mills hold tighter tolerances. Beyond that, was the steel melted in open air, or was it Vacuum-Induction-Melted? Was it Electro-Slag-Remelted? Was is Vacuum-Arc-Remelted? How many times did the steel go though these processes, redundantly, to remove the oxidation and impurities?

When the rod was actually forged from the steel slug, what care was taken to keep it away from atmospheric oxygen while it was still hot? Was the forging machined and THEN heat treated, or was it heat treated prior to machining? What heat treatment process was used? What heat treat condition is the finished part in? What is its fatigue strength? Hardness?

None of these questions ask anything about the geometry of the finished parts themselves, and whether or not they are straight, with the big/small end bores parallel to each other and perfectly perpendicular to the long axis of the rod, or what the finished diameters or surface finish is, etc etc.

I suspect most of the lower-end forged H beam rods for the 2J come from the same steel mill in China. I suspect for the cheaper ones, like CX racing and Eagle, that raw forgings are machined and finished in China as well. The higher end ones like K1 and Manley are likely finished in USA, but this is purely speculation on my part. For sure, the higher end stuff like the Turbo-Tuff and Carrillo are made from start to finish in the US with premium steel that HAS undergone all the latest/greatest steel manufacturing techniques - and that is what you're paying for. You KNOW they're gonna be right.

So at the end of the day, you pays your money and you takes your chances. Personally, I'd buy K1 with ARP2000 bolts. Real Street endorses them and say they pretty much always use these rods for applications that make 175hp per rod, or less.

Last, I still see no reason why you can't ask your piston/rod/bottom end questions in a single thread. We don't need a new thread for each new question you have about them. If you bellyache about "haters" (that are thoroughly answering your questions in great detail) again, I suspect those same "haters" will stop replying.
 
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