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Discussion Starter #1
After putting on side skirts at night, I turned on the car/lights only to see that my passenger HID is not working. After flickering the switch a few times, it will work but the times it doesn't, the ballast will make a buzzing sound for a short second. Also, when I start the engine, the passenger light that was previously on will shut off. It seems like I would haft to be lucky (after 4-5 tries) in order to have both the HID headlight on when igniting the engine. Now I am still learning on cars and a bit newbie with this stuff. Tomorrow I will switch the HIDs out and see if it is the Bulb, ballast, or relay.
 

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After putting on side skirts at night, I turned on the car/lights only to see that my passenger HID is not working. After flickering the switch a few times, it will work but the times it doesn't, the ballast will make a buzzing sound for a short second. Also, when I start the engine, the passenger light that was previously on will shut off. It seems like I would haft to be lucky (after 4-5 tries) in order to have both the HID headlight on when igniting the engine. Now I am still learning on cars and a bit newbie with this stuff. Tomorrow I will switch the HIDs out and see if it is the Bulb, ballast, or relay.
Ballast is going out. Will need to replace it soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
interesting, is that the reason that it is having trouble igniting the HID bulb when starting the engine?
 

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Mr. Roo
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If the ballast is buzzing for a second and nothing lights, then the ballast is working properly, and the bulb is dead. If there was no buzzing, then the ballast would be dead. However, it's not always that straightfoward, so the only real way to check it is to do what you say and switch stuff around and figure it out. Is it possible that your batter ran low while working on the car? Happens to me all the time lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If the ballast is buzzing for a second and nothing lights, then the ballast is working properly, and the bulb is dead. If there was no buzzing, then the ballast would be dead. However, it's not always that straightfoward, so the only real way to check it is to do what you say and switch stuff around and figure it out. Is it possible that your batter ran low while working on the car? Happens to me all the time lol.
That does happen with me too! a week ago I was fitting an integra type r wing on the is300 (which looks amazing btw) and I left the door open causing some power to be used from sounds/lights causing me to need a jumpstart.
 

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If the ballast is buzzing for a second and nothing lights, then the ballast is working properly, and the bulb is dead. If there was no buzzing, then the ballast would be dead. However, it's not always that straightfoward, so the only real way to check it is to do what you say and switch stuff around and figure it out.
When i had the same issue last year the ballast was buzzing but it was the ballast at fault, had me chasing my tail with the bulbs though as it would sometimes follow the bulb when testing and sometimes not.
 

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Actually the ballast is mounted under the headlamp housing. The only way to access is to remove the lower large access panel - then the bumper. When one of my ballasts went - I replaced both ballasts, and every bulb I had access to so as to not have to remove all that again for awhile.
 

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yea i figured that right after i did this post i replaced the driverside ballasat because that was the side that kept going out it will now let me put the highbemas on without it going out after i turn the highbeams off but if i turn the headlights themselfs off then turn them right back on the drivers side will not work i have to wait a good 10 mins before i can get it to work again im figuring the bulb must be shot..... thanks for the reply tho bud
 

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Mr. Roo
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When i had the same issue last year the ballast was buzzing but it was the ballast at fault, had me chasing my tail with the bulbs though as it would sometimes follow the bulb when testing and sometimes not.
well yeah I guess there are always exceptions to the rule. Could have been a problem with the actual bulb connector in your case, or something else, who knows. My statement was more for a general rule of thumb to get started in a pinch, but nothing beats just swapping parts left and right to test.
 

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well yeah I guess there are always exceptions to the rule. Could have been a problem with the actual bulb connector in your case, or something else, who knows. My statement was more for a general rule of thumb to get started in a pinch, but nothing beats just swapping parts left and right to test.
Could be, I've had bulbs blow on other cars and could trace it easily with the bulb swap method, but not this time. I have a feeling i might have ended up leaving the bulbs swapped, i had a spare headlight so swapped the ballast and bulb from that as it looked less burnt. The cable was definitively squeezed up tight in there though which did make me wonder why more people dont have wiring or plug issues.
 
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