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How to make YOUR stoptech or other 2 piece ( or one piece ) rotors look like NEW

after a year of literally sitting in the elements ... my bigass Stoptech rotors looked like SHEEEAT!!


here are a few pics of how they looked 2 weeks ago...not very good pics really but you get the idea.......gee...kinda like brakes on a car that hasn't moved in a year....:rolleyes:







WHen I got the car running again & started test driving.....ended up that the rust on the rotors was too much to grind off with light use...& somehow just test driving easy......the rust sorta glazed up in spots, & created a pulsing vibration under braking like they were warped. I am sure if I had run them harder they probably would have warped...regardless...had to get them turned.


FYI... finding a shop to turn these 14 inch rotors was a bitch... either they couldn't handle it cause they were just too big...or they couldn't/wouldn't do them cause they were slotted...

turns out i had to go to a shop that deals with heavy commercial trucks etc... the shop i found among other things, handles resurfacing flywheels and brake rotors for Semi trucks & such.... SO... if YOU are having trouble finding some one to resurface/turn YOUR bigass rotors...check into heavy truck repair/brake shops...

PS: it cost $45 to have two rotors done...like double what it used to cost for me to get 2 OEM rotors done........... It's a bitch posing as a "Baller"...



ok so they turned these things down for me & the brake surfaces were so clean & smooth i just had to restore the entire rotors...;)

like a dork... I guess I was tired & just not thinkin, & I forgot to document every step with pictures as usual....but most of this shit is not hard....just basic common sense stuff to do to accomplish the task...

1st I masked off the braking surface of the outside facing side of the rotor. & the bolts on the rotors.... i used MANY short strips of tape layered around the hub to form a clean line around the inside of the hub.. like video game graphics....it ends up taking LOTs of tiny straight strips layered to form a really clean circle/paint line around the Center... .

It is a pain cause a tape line that matches cleanly the inner curve of the center hat needs to be created..so there is a clean smooth line just off the braking surface for paint..I used a wire brush to scrub the center hats and the back sides as well as the hubs on the car.. i also scrubbed the edges of the rotors that were also lightly rusted, & nicely orange rust colored....

I didn't bother with the back side of the rotors as it isn't seen...

so after the clean tape line is formed you will have a bunch of tape hanging off the OUTER edge of the rotor..... i used a Xacto knife to slice off the tape right at the edge of the rotor face as well leaving the edges of the rotor exposed....

Next i used 320 grit sand paper to sand the centers down...i will eventually buy another set of rotors & these will be my track day or spares...& i'll take 'em apart & take these centers to be stripped & re-anodized or powdercoated...so this paint is a temporary cosmetic fix...

When I bought these, the center caps had discolored as anodizing is prone to do. The black was faded & turning purplish.... so I painted them black...





now I had to sand down that paint......after sanding the top and beveled sides of the centers with 320 then 400 grit sand paper they were clean enough then I used fine wire brush to brush around each bolt and in the crease around the centers edge making sure i hit every thing well...

next i wiped the centers off with clean alcohol soaked rags after blasting them with the air hose for a bit to clean the rust dust off.. after wipng them clean & blowing them dry again, I used small labels stickers I found to cover the nuts for the rotor...I just layed the tape flat on top of the nuts, i didnt care if the edges of the bolts got a little misting on them...

I then shot a couple light layers of Adhesion promoter & let them dry in the sun...after the primer dried..I started shooting them with the blue...I used several thin coats separated by 20 30 min or so.... i dont sweat the timing too much

after 5-6 coats of blue I let them dry for about an hour or two...then I blew them off again and I formed a 'block' out of card board so i could spray the edges & not overspray on the centers..

Next I used "Aluminum" rustoleum paint and shot the edges of the rotors straight down the curved vanes.... I shot them about 3 coats and let them dry 15 min between coats or so....



finally...I shot the centers and edges with High temp clear....I shot them 3-4 times or so, and let them dry around 15-20 min between coats...

so far so good...



here is the fun part...


after the last coat, i fired up my new bigass BBq and layered the grill with foil... using only two burners i got it to about 230 degrees & i placed the rotors on the Q to " Bake" the clear and the paint to seal it fast, & cure it faster as well




The blue I used is plain automotive Duplicolor paint that is not heat rated...I wanted to prevent as much heat damage (discoloration,bubbling,flaking) as possible & I have found that if you actually bake even ordinary paint it seems to be MUCH more durable and heat resistant afterwards ... not only that but the paint and the clear usually seems to self level and REALLY smooth out when you bake it....... i let them cook for like 45 minutes... i kept checking on them & after 45 min the paint started tio lightly smoke... so i shut her down and left the lid open to cool them off...

about an hour later i pulled them off & got ready to install...






The end result...





Some day i might repaint my calipers to match.... but for now the paint on them is pretty clean still, & now that the rears are painted to match....i'll tackle that later...


here are a few shots on the road again... MAN do they feel SOOO much better!!!














ok next project.......
 

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dick :)
 

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Damn, those look sweet. +rep to you
 

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Above and beyond as usual Ed.

A simple solution for those of you that don't have two piece rotors, all I do is just put a light coat of black high temp pant all over the rotor, let it dry, install, and you're done. The pad will clear all the paint away is on the rotor and leave you with perfect lines, I do this to every set of rotors I have ever had and has never failed, no rust.....ever.
 

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looks awesome, I'd +rep you but I just got you for painting the rims. You make the rest of us look bad.
 

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It's aight, i got ur back. I think we hold NOR CAL pretty well.

D
 
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