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Discussion Starter #1
Got a P1349 code last week and need of some help.

Last night I metered the OCV and it read 7.5-7.8 ohms, so that looked good. I took the valve out applied 12 volts and it moved back and fowards. So I think it is ok. The locking ramp for the clip is either broke off or there isn't one since the connector pulled straight off.

Next I was going to check the filter for the valve. I took the oil feed line off, dropped the inside washer (yeah I know), and tried to find the filter to clean it. But I couldn't either find the filter to pull it out, or there isn't one there to get out. How far back inside the block is the filter, and how are you guys getting them out?

The guy at Advance who read the code said the car could have jumped time. I had a new timing belt installed about 4k miles back, and when I pulled the cover off of the belt, the timing marks were both in the same spot.

Is there anything else I can check? Can I pull the OCV back out, disconnect the feed line and wash the OCV block out with some brake cleaner?

This is driving me nuts. Car seems to run fine, just gas mileage got bad, real bad.
 

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Yea, i would replace the filter($5) or the whole OCV($90 w/Sewell discount). It should be right behind the banjo bolt and if you use conventional most likely it is dirty. I haven't removed mine other than testing and i know when i tested mine the car died after hesitating bad(w/12v applied). Hopefully this helps, try spraying it out with brake parts cleaner. P1349 almost always means the OCV or wiring related to it, usually if you are out of time you will throw a P1346 DTC too.

2002 IS300: OEM Engine & Fuel (ENGINE OIL COOLER) Replacement Parts

#15678 is filter
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't see the filter. Should it be easy to get to with the banjo bolt removed? When I took the bolt out, I didn't see or feel any sort of filter.

Gotta get a break here at work and see if the engine stalls out with 12 volts applied to it...forgot to do that last night.
 
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I'm sorry i don't have first hand details as i haven't removed it but it should be behind or in the cavity of the banjo bolt. You should be able to see a spool with wire mesh, like this...which is clogged. Hope that helps. Applying power to it should make a noticeable difference if not stall the car.

edit; EM-26 of the FSM shows the mesh piece below should be attached to the end of the banjo bolt, so when you're reinstalling it, the valve should stick to end of the banjo bolt. Maybe yours became loose from the banjo bolt. The right side of it sticks to the banjo bolt. You have the mesh part that is encased in a frame(below) that goes on the end of the banjo bolt.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah there wasn't one there when I took the bolt out, not unless it is stuck way inside of the bearing cap.

Would it cause any issues with the bearing if I took the OCV out and the banjo bolt back out, and then flushed out the cap with brake cleaner? I would let it dry and then reinstall with a new filter and OCV...if the OCV doesn't make the car stall or run rough.

After I took everything apart last night, reset the computer and have drove it for about 15 miles with no codes yet. I wouldn't have thought I would have gotten a VVTi error considering the car barely makes it past 2500 rpms when I drive...I didn't know there was any VVTi action going on down there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, got the manual saved on my desktop for easy viewing :)
 

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Okay, good.

P1349
Definition
Vvt system malfunction (bank 1)
Probable cause
1.- valve timing off
2.- blocked oil passage
3.- failed oil control valve
4.- electrical circuit fault

Make sure your timing is good as well but i would think you would also throw DTC P1346 if you were actually off. As mentioned, 95% of the time the OCV is what causes this code it seems(well from the time I've spent on here).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wanted to give a head up for people wanting to clean out the filter.

The o-rings are not o-rings as I think of o-rings- rubber, but are metal washers. Mine on the block side was stuck, and I thought it was the edge of the filter...so I popped it loose, and it fell down. I never found it, so I pried the one off of the bolt side to put on the block side and drilled out another washer I had to fit the bolt side. Without the two washers you will get a massive oil leak.

So be careful with these guys...and it wouldn't hurt to have a couple spares if you drop one into the abyss like I did.
 

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Yea, i forgot to mention about the metal bushings that are a one time deal, as per fsm. Did the cleaning prevent p1349 from coming back so far? Hopefully the bushing just landed on the under cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Been at work since I've posted this. Gonna get some cleaner on the way home and squirt things out...and get a quart of oil to rinse after the cleaner and provide the bearing with some lube after getting cleaned. Gotta do the power while running test first.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No change in idle with the car running and power applied to the valve. The solenoid could be heard moving, but no change in the idle. Sounds like a bad OCV.
 

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No change in idle with the car running and power applied to the valve. The solenoid could be heard moving, but no change in the idle. Sounds like a bad OCV.
I agree, something is not right with the OCV. Providing the car was warmed up completely, you should have seen/heard the car run poorly if not stall. When i tested mine a couple years ago the car didn't stall but sounded like it was about to and there was a noticeable difference when i pulsed battery +/- across the coil. Good troubleshooting.

Remember to replace the metal gaskets when you replace it, they are a one time deal obviously.

Just Fyi, the valve is spring loaded and does not maintain the same state when the battery voltage is removed. Meaning, as you look at the OCV in the bay as it's mounted, the solenoid should shift to the exhaust side but the spool should shift back to the intake side with a loss of power. I would just replace it, it may be mechanically bound, sticky or not shifting fully. $90 isn't too bad i guess, i was hoping to hear the cleaning worked as well as the tests. Thanks for the update!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
She was purring like a kitten when I was bumping the valve with power.

I was hoping it would stumble and stall...but not my luck.

Oh well, have to order parts to fix it...local Toyota dealer wants $10 for the filter and $4 each for the washers.
 

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I got the P1349 code and since on of the reasons this code appears is due to oil being dirty or low and since i purchased the car used so i decided to change the oil before that the engine would shake and it stalled at times. After the oil change it ran great no more weird shaking as if it were going to stall but then just today i would press the gas pedal and it felt as if the engine was choking and it took time for the car to speed up only after i press down on the gas pedal :/ i found this thread and i checked if the OCV filter was clogged since the engine oil i removed was horrible i hoped that was the case but once i removed the banjo i found that there was no ocv filter :/ so this is where i hit a dead stop could it be something with my throttle since my engine does not shake no more but im only having issues in acceleration, any help would be appreciated and well i was also wondering since im new to this forum were can i find tech info like part numbers, troubleshooting info in this forum ???
 

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If you search OCV and my username(or jasonm4444) you'll find a ton of threads on how to test it and install it. Using conventional oil can cause the mesh filter to clog up faster. As mentioned, 95% of the time when this DTC pops up it is the OCV itself(~$90). It will cause poor idling, hesitation and even random misfires if bad enough. Are you sure the filter didn't become detached from the banjo bolt? It should be in there, can't imagine it not unless someone didn't reinstall a new one or forgot to put the old one back in. The filter is about $4 at the local Toyota/Lexus dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My CEL went off by itself yesterday...still ordering the parts to fix it.
 

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Mlexus, click on the links Jason provided on the second post...all of the part numbers are there. If your local dealership is like mine, the prices are about double what is listed on the Sewel site even before our discount.

But yeah, I didn't find a filter in mine and was wondering if it was stuck in the bearing cap way in there. But these guys say it should come out when you take the banjo bolt out.
 

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thanks

Thank you all for your help and since im broke at the moment you mention sewel sold the part for 90 I was wondering whats the link ? I will have to wait I hope to get it resolved soon :/ so for those that didnt find thr filter where you able to find it and where was it located ? I unscrewed the banjo slowly but saw nothing I guess I will just get the whole unit to really fix it once and for all.
 
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