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Virgin Magnet
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8,768 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
this is hte code that i am throwing... no idea why, no idea how ot get rid of it.

anyon else have this problem?

using a TE AEM n1.11
 

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Virgin Magnet
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8,768 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
no new cams


not much haschanged other than the EMS, and the EMS should have nothing to do with the cam sensor... BAH!!

its the vvti actuator thing i am pretty sure.. according to all-data
 

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It's 5 o'clock somewhere.
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6,017 Posts
Intake Cam Position Actuator Circuit Open - Bank 1

Description:

How does a P0010 code trigger the check engine light? This code will trigger the check engine light under the following condition:

The comprehensive component monitor, referred to as the CCM, monitors the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) circuit to the computer for high and low voltages. If the voltage falls below a set limit for a specific amount of time during this test, the check engine light will come on and set this trouble code.

Possible Causes:

Open or short in the VCT circuit
Open in the Vehicle Power circuit
Open or short in the VCT solenoid valve itself
Damaged computer (PCM)

Diagnostic Help:

This check engine light code is caused by a circuit fault of the VCT system. Testing should include all related wiring circuits, the VCT solenoid and PCM itself. Please refer to out article on Automotive Circuit Testing for help with this. You may also use the "Get Help" link if you need specifications or have any other related questions. Remember to refer to an appropriate manual for specific instructions.
Diagnose Check Engine Light Codes, Emissions And Oxygen Sensor Faults
 

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Virgin Magnet
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8,768 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
yeah i read that too...

i was hoping someone else had to deal with this and i could get a definite answer of what it was/is
 

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I'm sure you checked your plugs/connectors, so my only guess would be if the AEM is setup to run VVTi. If so I would think it would be wired in a way that puts the OE ECU out of the loop (PWM wire probably cut within the ECU box), and an open would be sensed. Find the wire in the PNP harness for VVTi and check it out (E5 and E6 in the ECU pinnout floating around here).
 

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Virgin Magnet
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8,768 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I'm sure you checked your plugs/connectors, so my only guess would be if the AEM is setup to run VVTi. If so I would think it would be wired in a way that puts the OE ECU out of the loop (PWM wire probably cut within the ECU box), and an open would be sensed. Find the wire in the PNP harness for VVTi and check it out (E5 and E6 in the ECU pinnout floating around here).
my AEM has nothing to do with the OCV.

we all feel dumb, teh connector wasn't all the way on.. :blush:
 

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Ok let me edit to "I'm sure you DIDN'T" hahaha.

Good thing it wasn't something hard and/or expensive.
 

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the one from dezod 1.19. does the code mess up timing an any way?
The Dezod AEM controls VVTi, thats probably your CEL, the OE wires are cut, and the AEM in direct control, I'd bet its an "open" its detecting.

Seems to only detect open or short, not dynamic changes, a resister of the right value should be a fix.

I can put the multimeter to the VVTi coil/solenoid/stepper motor or whatever the F it is and get a resistance reading/s for you. But it'll be maybe three days until I have time to touch my car.
 

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if it was the VVTi than wouldnt it put out a different code other than p0010? is that the sensor that connected to the side of the cam gear cover? would setting up the crank/cam sensor wizard do anything?
 

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Intake Cam Position Actuator Circuit Open
That doesn't sound like a sensor to me, but the actual actuator, which would be an inductive mechanism of some kind, be it stepper motor or whatever (I believe its a PWM signal). It (OE ECU) has a detection circuit for an open or short condition, apparently. Would suck to get rid of this CEL with a resistor and then get a different one because it also has a feedback logic kind of like closed loop.
 

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so you think this is normal with the dezod AEM since its controlling vvti?
I'm doing what many of the no-longer-here OG'ers hated. Since obviously there is not help, I am provided an idea, a hypothesis, a route for the average DIY'er to explore and rule out. It simply makes sense

BUT

With these things, there are always more than one scenario that can lead to the same condition/symptom. The best I can do for you is take a resistance reading, and give you the pinout so you know what wires to look for (if they are cut), and if they are cut, what resister to go with.

I did this with a heater circuit question someone had. I took the cold reading of the heater circuit, but later realized that the heater resistance may be variable and I should have take the reading with the car hot. I haven't heard back how it went. I do not claim to be a car or tuning God, this is my hobby, and I like to try and help.

B.
 
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