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*Just a note

My experience on my P0037 code: oxygen sensor problem B1S2. After changing my spark plugs SK16s, (now the car freaking flys!)
The P0037 cel code was gone for a longer period of time because I can get the code back easily if I push the car hard.

So now I will just replace the sensor.
 

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Hi, I got a question,

If my car is triggering only a P0174 code, does that mean the problem is focused on the O2 sensor at B2S1 or could it possibly still be airflow sensor or fuel injector or something else?
 

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O2's the last thing you wanna check. search for vacuum leaks, clean and inspect the MAF sensor, test the fuel pressure. do some searching on the site based on the code. there are more detailed scenarios mentioned that might help you narrow down your problem.
 

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the reason why I assumed that it is O2 is because MAF would trigger both codes, P0174 and P0171, and from my small understanding fuel pressure should trigger both as well. I have checked vacuums and have not noticed any damage or holes. Driving the car for a bit I have noticed no difference in performance nor any changes in noise or vibrations.

Could any of this help narrow down the cause of my problem?
 

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the reason why I assumed that it is O2 is because MAF would trigger both codes, P0174 and P0171, and from my small understanding fuel pressure should trigger both as well. I have checked vacuums and have not noticed any damage or holes. Driving the car for a bit I have noticed no difference in performance nor any changes in noise or vibrations.

Could any of this help narrow down the cause of my problem?
Wifey's car (not an IS300) is throwing the exact same codes. I replaced the MAF but it didn't fix the problem. Checking the vacuum tubes too. I'm now thinking I might have to take it somewhere to get the fuel pressure/filter checked.
 

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O2's the last thing you wanna check. search for vacuum leaks, clean and inspect the MAF sensor, test the fuel pressure. do some searching on the site based on the code. there are more detailed scenarios mentioned that might help you narrow down your problem.
now im really concerned, CEL went off, not the first time, but is yet to come back,3 start ups and 100 miles later. I doubt the problem could have fixed itself. What should I do now :confused:
 

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OK, whats the deal with the O2 PN: 89465-53190 v/s -53150? I have a P057 / B2S2 code on my '03. Is the '150 and '190 interchangeable?
 

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If i am not mistaken i had the 02 simulator done by the way of aftermarket headers and removing the cat. It turned off my CEL but my gas mileage was still less than desirable and i am def. running rich but no CEL. a few months down the road after getting it done i am having problems, sputtering and stalling. The computer brings up no problems but states my 02's are slow to respond. Now i have a tech at Toyotech trying to figure it out.
 

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I'm getting code P0135. Can I do a similar quick fix as done for P0161 by tapping the B1S1 heater wire to the B2S1 heater wire?
Thanks
 

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Car is throwing code P0161 which is B2S2. Decided I would actually replace and fix it rather than do the free fix. Just thought I'd share my price findings with others:

Part Number - 89465-53120
B2S2 for '01 IS300 (103k miles)

Lexus of Wilmington (local stealership) $177.27
Iron Toad $141.82 + shipping
Denso $114.74 + shipping

Went with the Denso and found a 10% off coupon :approve:
 

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My Anti seize pre-dates O2 sensors.
Any suggestions on O2 safe anti seize ?
 

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Lifted from Wikipedia

Sensor failures

Normally, the lifetime of an unheated sensor is about 30,000 to 50,000 miles (50,000 to 80,000 km). Heated sensor lifetime is typically 100,000 miles (160,000 km). Failure of an unheated sensor is usually caused by the buildup of soot on the ceramic element, which lengthens its response time and may cause total loss of ability to sense oxygen. For heated sensors, normal deposits are burned off during operation and failure occurs due to catalyst depletion, similar to the reason a battery stops producing current. The probe then tends to report lean mixture, the ECU enriches the mixture, the exhaust gets rich with carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons, and the mileage worsens.

Leaded gasoline contaminates the oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. Most oxygen sensors are rated for some service life in the presence of leaded gasoline but sensor life will be shortened to as little as 15,000 miles depending on the lead concentration. Lead-damaged sensors typically have their tips discolored light rusty.

Another common cause of premature failure of lambda probes is contamination of fuel with silicones (used in some sealings and greases) or silicates (used as corrosion inhibitors in some antifreezes). In this case, the deposits on the sensor are colored between shiny white and grainy light gray.

Leaks of oil into the engine may cover the probe tip with an oily black deposit, with associated loss of response.

An overly rich mixture causes buildup of black powdery deposit on the probe. This may be caused by failure of the probe itself, or by a problem elsewhere in the fuel rationing system.

Applying an external voltage to the zirconia sensors, e.g. by checking them with some types of ohmmeter, may damage them.

Symptoms of a failing oxygen sensor includes:

* Sensor Light on dash indicates problem
* Increased tailpipe emissions
* Increased fuel consumption
* Hesitation on acceleration
* Stalling
* Rough idling
 

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Thanks, hope mine comes with some as well.

And did anyone ever come up with a way to get that B2S1 Out ?
Just looked under the hood. You do mean B2S1, correct? The one above the cat on the rear bank facing the firewall?

Doesn't look like it'd be that hard to change. What's the problem?
 

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Right, but what's the problem?

Can't get your wrench on it? Can't get leverage on the wrench? Thing is stuck? Are you using an O2 socket? Did you remove the intake tube?

Gimme a hint! :)
 

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Right, but what's the problem?

Can't get your wrench on it? Can't get leverage on the wrench? Thing is stuck? Are you using an O2 socket? Did you remove the intake tube?

Gimme a hint! :)
I tried to get them undone with a wrench, gave up and got a O2 socket.
so they are all out except this one, cant get to it to get the leverage on the breaker 3/4 inch bar. now the exhaust was loose, which made it more difficult. I may try again once the gearbox it back on and the exhaust tightened up. yes the Air pipe is out. couldn't get the manifold out the top or bottom, engine is dropped and tilted. I didn't want to mussel it and damage something.
 
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