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I still need to set the clutch pedal stop, so I won’t be driving it anywhere else til I get that done.
This is how I arranged my clutch pedal stop when I installed my T56 with the Tilton throw-out bearing:



If I remember correctly, I didn't have to even drill any holes. I think the bolts are m6x1.

With car on hoist, rear wheels off the ground, transmission in gear and clutch fully engaged - I had two helpers attempt to spin rear wheels simultaneously. Obviously with trans in gear, the wheels don't spin. Then I gradually pushed on the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch - while helpers kept trying to spin wheels. We found the clutch pedal travel point where the wheels could easily be spun; and I set my clutch pedal stop slightly beyond that point. Tilton had a specification for how far beyond the disengagement point to set the travel limiter.

It's important to have two helpers because Torsen LSDs kinda act like an open differential when one person spins just one rear wheel; rather than spinning the driveshaft (and thus the transmission and clutch), it'll just spin the other wheel the opposite direction. Two helpers, each trying to spin the rear wheels (in same direction) will ensure the differential imparts torque on the driveshaft. Even with two helpers, if they get out of synch, the differential can start to differentiate and slip.

You could probably have car on ground and have a helper push the car to find the disengagement point of your clutch; but I think everyone will have better "feel" with the rear wheels off ground, able to spin freely once clutch is disengaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
Hows it running now? No more overheating issues?
I have not driven it much, but it has not over heated yet. I’m guessing it was the headgasket initially. All the valve fuckery didn’t start til I tried to have the head worked on locally. Prolly coulda avoided it by just cleaning the deck and slapping the head back on. C’ est la vie. It starts, comes up to temp, and drives pretty good so far. I been waiting on cooler weather to arrive before I mess with it much more.

Last thing I did was I cleaned up some wiring and need to adjust the clutch pedal again. I added a chase bays clutch cylinder adapter and a Tilton 3/4” CMC, and bled it. The twin disc seems like it’s working as it should. I think I worried and fretted and kinda burnt myself out on it, and the hot weather didn’t help matters any. I took it out and drove it and didn’t get much pleasure from it, so I need to just let it go for awhile. I babies it and kept the rpm’s low/no boost cuz new clutch. I’ll warm back up to it eventually.
 

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I have not driven it much, but it has not over heated yet. I’m guessing it was the headgasket initially. All the valve fuckery didn’t start til I tried to have the head worked on locally. Prolly coulda avoided it by just cleaning the deck and slapping the head back on. C’ est la vie. It starts, comes up to temp, and drives pretty good so far. I been waiting on cooler weather to arrive before I mess with it much more.

Last thing I did was I cleaned up some wiring and need to adjust the clutch pedal again. I added a chase bays clutch cylinder adapter and a Tilton 3/4” CMC, and bled it. The twin disc seems like it’s working as it should. I think I worried and fretted and kinda burnt myself out on it, and the hot weather didn’t help matters any. I took it out and drove it and didn’t get much pleasure from it, so I need to just let it go for awhile. I babies it and kept the rpm’s low/no boost cuz new clutch. I’ll warm back up to it eventually.
My running joke is "it's a toyota whats it gonna do break, thats against the laws of nature" they're pretty good about not breaking as long as you did everything right ish. Pretty basic set it and forget it engines. I'm sure as it gets cooler the boost weather will bite you and you'll have it out good job tho sounds like you got it all down. Wanna see some vids of it ripping eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 · (Edited)
Well I got the car out and took it for a tank of fuel. Did OK, but the clutch is gonna take some getting used to. No overheating so far and runs pretty good. If y’all remember, I deleted the GTE oil cooler when I had the engine out. So now my oil temp runs a bit warmer @ 210F. I guess that’s OK? I figure I will put an air-oil cooler on eventually. PHR has a pretty nice one. Been a pretty crap year so I’m gonna have to save up for it.

I ended up having to put my old dog down, he was almost 15. We got a “new” old dog, he’s a minpin like my other boy was. Well he’s got a lipoma (not life threatening) but while the vet was ruling out a hernia, they found out he’s got heart worms. I think he will be OK, but there’s just not been much car time or extra money.
 

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So now my oil temp runs a bit warmer @ 210F. I guess that’s OK?

I ended up having to put my old dog down, he was almost 15.
Ain't nothing wrong with 210*F oil temp, and won't hurt a thing if it even gets up to 225-230. In fact you want oil to run at water's boiling temp or a bit higher to essentially distill any water out of it. Hendrick Motorsports and Childress Racing wouldn't even allow us to do a power pull on one of their cup car engines until the oil temp was at least 250.

So sorry to hear about the dog! I have two Weimaraners that will be 13 in February. They're brother/sister from the same litter. They're in good health - albeit a lot slower, chill and a bit more ornery then they used to be - but I really dread the double-whammy I'm in for when they depart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
So sorry to hear about the dog! I have two Weimaraners that will be 13 in February.
Thanks man. It hurts and you can’t prepare mentally for it. Those Weimars are good pups!


Ain't nothing wrong with 210*F oil temp, and won't hurt a thing if it even gets up to 225-230
I may not do an air-oil cooler then. The plumbing looks to be a mess since I have the AC compressor still. I use Mobil1 synth so not terrible worried about the current temps, but I did notice a temperature increase post-factory cooler delete. So if water boils at 212F, then the oil needs to get up close to 212 to boil out the condensed water? That makes sense.
 
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