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I have previously installed a couple greddy turbo kits on various cars and they all come with banjo fittings on the end of the oil return line that just connects to the oil drain plug on the pan. Is it possible to do this on the IS kits? Instead of tapping into the oil pan for the return that is. If so, is there any pros or cons to this method?
 

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i say dont even tap into the pan, tap into the aluminum upper pan that goes between the block and the oil pan. this way you dont take the chance in backing upt the system and having your seals go bad in the turbo. and by taping into that uper pan you dump the oil on top of the baffle and not streight into the oil.

so just take the time and do it the right way thats my .02

-Brett
 
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It's 5 o'clock somewhere.
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Discussion Starter #4
Nline6 said:
i say dont even tap into the pan, tap into the aluminum upper pan that goes between the block and the oil pan. this way you dont take the chance in backing upt the system and having your seals go bad in the turbo. and by taping into that uper pan you dump the oil on top of the baffle and not streight into the oil.

so just take the time and do it the right way thats my .02

-Brett
thanks for the option, didnt really think of that
 

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here is where you want to tap, maybe a little more to the left on the thing<--there is another one on the fuel rail that looks just like it...its up to you:



picture from mzm international, thanks to leo.

it should be better to tap above the oil level so the oil really "drains" back into the pan.
 
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err, dont tap the pan it will always leak, I had mine in the block like the pic above but it was too close to my turbo and I didnt have a good angle to drain so I ended up getting fittins welded into the pan.
 

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not my car and not my motor. :)
 

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not that there is anything i can tell thats wrong about where this oil line is taped this is where i did mine and ive seen alot of others tap there upper pan.

-Brett
 

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mt vernon area and we dont have e-check

-Brett
 

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I made a detailed post about how to do your oil system for your turbo. The Feed and the drain, but i will give a small little bit of info again.

For your feed, i reccomend tapping the oil banjo bolt that goes into the VVTI solenoid. Use a center punch to mark the center, drill a small pilot hole while being held in a vise. Then use the proper drill bit size for the tap and then use a tap and tap handle and make the threading. Half turn clockwise, then 1 full turn back to clear out the tap grooves. Use grease to pick up any debris and not get cought in the grooves.

For the feed, tap the boss on the bottom of the block. Someone in the pic above made a circle showing where the person SHOULD have tapped the oil return. That boss was there for you to tap, i dont see what you tapped next to it. Again, when tapping, make sure you are careful. Use grease and a vacuum extension to prevent getting debris into the oil as much as possible. Small debris is negiligible as the oil galley's have screens that will pick up all the little stuff. Use some sort of sealer to make sure yo have a tight seal between the fitting and the hole you made.

On the oil feed line comming from the banjo bolt, use an oil restrictor fitting to preserve the life of your turbo. Since the drain is a bit slower than the feed, the restrictor will help with the oil IN and oil OUT properties and not be unbalanced as much.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Malekreza11 said:
I made a detailed post about how to do your oil system for your turbo. The Feed and the drain, but i will give a small little bit of info again.

For your feed, i reccomend tapping the oil banjo bolt that goes into the VVTI solenoid. Use a center punch to mark the center, drill a small pilot hole while being held in a vise. Then use the proper drill bit size for the tap and then use a tap and tap handle and make the threading. Half turn clockwise, then 1 full turn back to clear out the tap grooves. Use grease to pick up any debris and not get cought in the grooves.

For the feed, tap the boss on the bottom of the block. Someone in the pic above made a circle showing where the person SHOULD have tapped the oil return. That boss was there for you to tap, i dont see what you tapped next to it. Again, when tapping, make sure you are careful. Use grease and a vacuum extension to prevent getting debris into the oil as much as possible. Small debris is negiligible as the oil galley's have screens that will pick up all the little stuff. Use some sort of sealer to make sure yo have a tight seal between the fitting and the hole you made.

On the oil feed line comming from the banjo bolt, use an oil restrictor fitting to preserve the life of your turbo. Since the drain is a bit slower than the feed, the restrictor will help with the oil IN and oil OUT properties and not be unbalanced as much.
Thanks a lot....great write-up. Helps a lot! (+rep)
 

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FYI, putting your oil return into the pan (sheetmetal pan, not the alum) is a BAD idea since you will be in oil and the return needs to be free flowing. The writeup by MALEK above is the right way to do it. (+Rep)
 

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that circled cast boss is a vestigal boss that is used for the TT GTE motor which is virtually identical except for the head...
 

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nice write up. but one thing i disagree with you on.

Malekreza11 said:
Again, when tapping, make sure you are careful. Use grease and a vacuum extension to prevent getting debris into the oil as much as possible. Small debris is negiligible as the oil galley's have screens that will pick up all the little stuff.


just take the pan off, dont do this without doing so. i dont care if theres a screen or not. i wouldnt want metal (aluminum) shavings any where in my engine!!! so just do it the right way and take the pan off. yes its a little extra work but its well worth it in the long run.

-Brett
 

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Removing the oil pan is a pain in the ass becuase you gotta remove all the underbody bracing to get it out. If you are extremely careful, you wont get shavings in there. Hence the reason for the grease and the vacuum extension. Ive done this quite a few times and i never got any shavings in there. Just gotta be extra careful when drilling and tapping. Gotta use the grease and the vacuum extension on everything you do.
 

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Malekreza11 said:
Removing the oil pan is a pain in the ass becuase you gotta remove all the underbody bracing to get it out. If you are extremely careful, you wont get shavings in there. Hence the reason for the grease and the vacuum extension. Ive done this quite a few times and i never got any shavings in there. Just gotta be extra careful when drilling and tapping. Gotta use the grease and the vacuum extension on everything you do.
the pan is not that hard to take off you dont even have to drop the cradle! dont get me wrong there are some bolts that are a pain to get to but its not a must to drop everything to get the pan out.

i dont care how carefull you are, shavings are going to get into the pan. yeah you might get most of them but shavings are still going to get in there. not to mention when you tap it, your going to get some very small shavings in there. i just sugest that everyone should take the pan off. and play it safe. thats what i would do, and did on my car.

-Brett
 
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i agree to not do the pan - i went through the lower pan and am having problems (my lower pan was not tapped i too had the fittig welded in)

but definatly have the drain line through the upper pan - it will save you many headaches later - that i am having now - sigh
 

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If you do not remove the upper pan then just flush the pan with some cheap oil to get any of the shavngs that may have fallen inside, out. Also put some good heavy grease on the bit to help retain the shavings.
 
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