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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Valves, Lifters, Cams, Hoses, Radiators, Pumps, Headers, Intakes.. etc etc. All have been replaced, Engine is Oil free and could cook a egg on it. New plug wires, New Plugs, New Vacuum hoses, yada yada. As I said in a post a couple months ago, car has had "dodgy" if that term should even be used "maintenance". Mis-fire on 1, 3, 5 after he replaced everything. Valves have been soaked multiple times. Lifters replaced. Engine still runs like crap. I don't even think it holds oil pressure, and my dad is just about had it and is going to buy a brand new block. I never had a big problems except oil leak from a cover that was all RTV'ed, and Trac Light flashing, if that should be a clue to anything or issues he's experiencing?!

Anything anyone can think of? He is 25+ years of ASE Certs for 100% GM Master Tech. Do you think the new plug wires could cause it, ECU, anything else I should ask him to check? He's literally pulled apart, and built it 9 times now. I don't want to owe him 4k after he's bought a block, probs 10k if it was a real deal with labor and unknown mechanic. I literally could have turbo'ed my car with intake and manifold from a GTE fabbed up for a GE with that amount of money + more. But knowing this it probably would have ended up in a gazillion pieces

I drove the car 1 time after I interior swapped it, 50 miles and drove it a bit and maybe went a buck. And 110 miles before that going to and from Orlando, also coming on the way back, a stretch of road I knew, I did top speed just to see how the car was, and let off after that and filled up cause it had low fuel light on. Added 20$ (half tank) and continued home.

Do you think driving a car that hard that hasn't had proper maintained besides a oil change and fill up, and the times before I drove it, I maybe hit red-line once or twice a day other than that I don't drive it to hard. Caused anything such as carbon to come loose and score a cylinder? If that is the case I guess it's just bad luck. I would have worked on it if I could just to clean it up, someone won't let me :/ . Any thing is helpful. Hey at-least I'll have a brand new engine if it comes to that.

Any info is helpful. Fuel cuts? anything ECU related, doubt he has looked at it super in-depth? Re-tune?
 

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Sorry trying to decipher all that you said. From what I gathered.

1. The engine had a misfire when you bought or it developed a misfire while driving it.

2. you had your dad look into it which lead to him dismantling the engine COMPLETELY for some reason

3. it has now been COMPLETELY DISMANTLED 9 times and there is still a problem with a misfire.

From what I gathered, I have a few questions:

1. Why was the motor dismantled?

2. why was the motor dismantled 9 times?

3. any more check engine light codes popping up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry trying to decipher all that you said. From what I gathered.
Sorry I forgot to add more info. No the car was fine before, no misfires before it was taken apart.

My dad was going to fix the oil leak when I bought it. I drove it for a month or 2 just fine. Just topped oil up.

He did maintenance on it, Spark Plugs, Maf, Water Pump, Belt, Plug wires and the Oil Pan

While doing those, he noted that the Spark plugs were finger lose, Vacuum hoses and plastic part kept breaking, and some of the bearing had slight scoring but nothing to worth about.
He also stated, "Who ever worked on it last did not know $#!t" I feel the same way after I had to look up, "What is the OEM 2001 Lexus IS300 radio harness look like"

No, figure of speech. Probably 5 times. And he has changed more parts to see if its the cause. Deductive reasoning, what people use to find a solution of a problem.

Weirdly no, the only code still poping up is what ever the sensor is for Traction Control/ABS. Complete unrelated to the problem. Next thing will be spark plug wires and coils. Then what ever is causing the Trac light. After that its going to be the fuel system, If that does not fix it new block.
 

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This is what makes zero sense to me. If the car was running fine why tear apart the entire engine as far down to the bearings?? All of that just to fix an oil leak?
No disrespect intended but you dad probably messed something up by accident.
These motors are know to leak from the the valve cover gaskets, cam seals, crank seals and the oil pan gasket. Of course leaks aren’t limited to those seals. They are just EXTREMELY common. Especially the cam and crank seals. Those alone will cover the entire front of the engine in the matter of a month.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
This is what makes zero sense to me. If the car was running fine why tear apart the entire engine as far down to the bearings?? All of that just to fix an oil leak?
No disrespect intended but you dad probably messed something up by accident.
These motors are know to leak from the the valve cover gaskets, cam seals, crank seals and the oil pan gasket. Of course leaks aren’t limited to those seals. They are just EXTREMELY common. Especially the cam and crank seals. Those alone will cover the entire front of the engine in the matter of a month.
As I said. This was to fix in the first place the oil leak. He replaced everything seal wise, added water pump, new belt, and new oil pan and gasket cause it looked like some one ran over a person before. The spark plugs on my car 3 of them finger loose and all but 2 fouled with oil also, while some retard used 2 different plug types, 3 Spitfire and 3 Denso. the plastic holding to the harness was breaking to pieces. This led to more things breaking.

The first time he was done it started leaking from the water pump after he started it up. Apparently the last person used RTV all around it cause that person or previous attempt gouged the block so he fixed that.

2nd time now after having it back together. Starts it up, notices now it still leaking but from different place. Find a aluminum connector for the block was broken from lifting the engine slightly to make more room. Took it off, aluminum stick welded it back up, all fixed good to go. Car sat a couple weeks. Puts it back together, replaces some more little things.

3rd time now. Car starts up, no leaks but is running worse than before. Discovers there is misfire. Being the engine sat for awhile having no oil, a valve spring could have become stuck from starvation. Takes it back apart and replaces the valve spring and oils it up again. Also fixes some other little things such as old rad, and replaces it. I think it was the 6th cylinder exhaust valve.

4th time now, car starts making bad knocking noises. 1, 2, 5 are all misfires for going lean. Car takes the most damage from starting up. Imagine how many times he has tried to diagnose this engine within the span from December 2019 to May 2020? The block probably isn't the same that the car originally came with, I will ask him to make sure. I have all OEM panels on my car. But the mileage on my car and engine don't line up. He says it probably has over 200k+ at least on engine while the car has 176k last I drove it I think.

He's had his fair share of Japanese cars and has had a Mazda truck or two he swapped 5.0's into when he was in High school. Super crazy fast. He's had Jeeps, Old 300ZX 80's, multiple of each cars. I sure would hope he knows what he is doing. I would no doubt. He only works on my car Saturdays and Sundays not all the time though, probably 1/4th of them since December and a few late nights up until the suns back up.

To add. Every seal is replaced. after the 5th time I think he replaced head gasket with new OEM Toyota GE Metal Head Gasket. I also forgot to add that some Valve cover bolts and studs were either missing or just broken off and stuck in block. I think 3 where missing from the exhaust side, and 1 head stud was broken in the block, and more else where. He fixed everything that should need tighting down. No leaks. I would hope he accidentally messed up something. I can only hope.

If you have any more questions please ask but will update this after I'm done with School work (8 more essays to do, a whole test, and another huge paper, and a commercial to make) He said he will try to finish up this week. So either he's sick of me asking or he's pulling my leg for graduation.
(edit: added spacing for easy reading)
 

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Just find a local JDM engine supplier and replace the entire engine. Or pick one up from FB marketplace. Quick search today there were several engines in the $500 - 800 range.
 

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So the problem at the moment is the misfire?

Its common for the coil pack connectors to break up and sometime not make a good contact, or for the coil packs to go bad. From memory 1 & 2 are on the same coil, could be a failing coil. Or maybe the igniter failing.

Its unusual to have 3 run lean, usually if its lean it will be all cylinders because of the fuel pump failing, bank 1 OR bank 2 from a bad o2 sensor on one of the banks, or possibly 1 injector failing. If its lean on 1,2 &5 then its unlikely to be any of those, more likely to be an electrical issue or maybe with the connection to the injectors not sitting right.

I will say though mine also made a knocking sound after starting after replacing the plugs, thought i had stuffed something up on such a simple job. But it was the ECU relearning the timing and fuel and i guess new plugs with a different resistance, it knocked for about 5-10 seconds (felt like forever though) and then slowly sorted itself out. It needs to run through a warm up cycle to learn the new maps needed and adjust accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So the problem at the moment is the misfire?
Ok, I asked him again and about what I thought. He said it is just electrical now, but it still misfires. He put it back together for right now and moved it out of the shop for the time being.
I also was able to finish all the school work. Only doing a couple things now. No more school, I hope.
 
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