A few .Net members have asked me to do a DIY for the oil change. I was originally not going to do one, so I hope this helps a few people.
PDF procedures and pictures attached at the bottom
DISCLAIMER: The procedures, methods and products written up here was for my circumstances only and were performed on a 2001 Automatic. I make no promises that your results will be the same nor do I claim that this is the best way to do it. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
WARNING: Automotive fluids are not good for you. I have no reason do doubt the statement that used fluids are carcinogenic. Use latex gloves when handling used automotive fluid, and wash hands soon after you are complete with the task.
WARNING on working under a raised vehicle: This procedure requires that he vehicle be raised. Do not depend on the jack alone. Use jack stands and place them under the lift points as described in the owner’s manual.
Time Required: 40-45 minutes
Oil Pan Drain Crush Washer Part Number: 12031 cost $1.15
Oil Filter Part Number: 90915-YZZD1 cost $7.89
6 Quarts 5w30 oil. (Purchased Mobil 1 Synthetic at Costco for $24.95 + CRV)
Qty Needed: 5.7 qts (6 bottles)
Tools Needed:
-Oil Filter Wrench
-14mm combination wrench
-14mm 3/8” deep socket
-Torque wrench capable of up to 50 ft lbs
-Plastic bag (I like Target bags and thick produce bags from the supermarket. Choose a bag that is stretchy, and not brittle (like plastic grocery handle bags). When you pull the filter out, there are a lot of sharp edges and a thick pliable bag works best to prevent oil getting everywhere.
-Funnel
Optional:
-10mm socket
-3/8” ratchet
You can work on a hot or cold car but I prefer working on a cold car. A few reasons: the oil filter is pretty deep in the engine and my arm touches the intake manifold which gets really hot. I don’t really like working with scalding hot oil. When the car is cold more of the oil will be in the pan, but it will flow slower. Your choice, but I choose cold.
Step 1. Jack up the front of the car and put the car and stands.
Step 2. Remove the 14mm drain bolt and drain the oil.
Step 3. Replace the crush washer with a new one, clean the drain plug and the oil pan, and reinstall the drain plug. (28 ft lbs)
Optional: You can remove the two 10mm bolts on the underbody flap and remove the filter from the bottom of the car. I never do, but here are the pics of where the filter is in relation to the flap.
Step 4. The best way to figure out how to get the oil filter out is to wiggle a new one into the crevice to get an idea of how to get the old filter out. First remove the transmission dip stick. This small amount of extra room pays off later. Next follow the steps pictured here:
Step 5. Once you have your path figured out, loosen the filter slightly with the wrench. When it is just loose enough for you to remove by hand but not so loose that oil is coming out, stop. Now, place the plastic bag under the oil filter flange, as high as it will go. Once in place, quickly spin the filter off, letting it fall into the bag.
Step 6. Gather the bang and gently pull the filter out, wide open side first. I rarely spill almost any oil, so I know it is possible.
Step 7. I always fill my filter with fresh oil to about ¾ full. This helps in getting oil to the engine faster. Does it hurt not to? Probably not, but it’s a habit.
Step 8. Make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter. Be sure the new filter gasket has lube on it. If it does not, put a thin coat of oil on the gasket. Reinstall the filter hand tight, but very snug. Do not use the filter wrench to put the filter back on. Reinstall the transmission dip stick.
Step 9. Use a funnel to put oil back into the crankcase. When I did my spark plug replacement, there was a pool of oil in the first cylinder. This was likely from missed oil fills. I would prefer if I did not find that in the future. The car requires 5.7 quarts with a filter change.
Step 10. Lower the car off the jack stands. Start the car and allow it to idle for a minute or so checking the filter and the drain plug for leaks. Stop the car, wait a few minutes and top off the car if necessary.
PDF procedures and pictures attached at the bottom
DISCLAIMER: The procedures, methods and products written up here was for my circumstances only and were performed on a 2001 Automatic. I make no promises that your results will be the same nor do I claim that this is the best way to do it. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
WARNING: Automotive fluids are not good for you. I have no reason do doubt the statement that used fluids are carcinogenic. Use latex gloves when handling used automotive fluid, and wash hands soon after you are complete with the task.
WARNING on working under a raised vehicle: This procedure requires that he vehicle be raised. Do not depend on the jack alone. Use jack stands and place them under the lift points as described in the owner’s manual.
Time Required: 40-45 minutes
Oil Pan Drain Crush Washer Part Number: 12031 cost $1.15
Oil Filter Part Number: 90915-YZZD1 cost $7.89
6 Quarts 5w30 oil. (Purchased Mobil 1 Synthetic at Costco for $24.95 + CRV)
Qty Needed: 5.7 qts (6 bottles)
Tools Needed:
-Oil Filter Wrench
-14mm combination wrench
-14mm 3/8” deep socket
-Torque wrench capable of up to 50 ft lbs
-Plastic bag (I like Target bags and thick produce bags from the supermarket. Choose a bag that is stretchy, and not brittle (like plastic grocery handle bags). When you pull the filter out, there are a lot of sharp edges and a thick pliable bag works best to prevent oil getting everywhere.
-Funnel
Optional:
-10mm socket
-3/8” ratchet
You can work on a hot or cold car but I prefer working on a cold car. A few reasons: the oil filter is pretty deep in the engine and my arm touches the intake manifold which gets really hot. I don’t really like working with scalding hot oil. When the car is cold more of the oil will be in the pan, but it will flow slower. Your choice, but I choose cold.
Step 1. Jack up the front of the car and put the car and stands.
Step 2. Remove the 14mm drain bolt and drain the oil.
Step 3. Replace the crush washer with a new one, clean the drain plug and the oil pan, and reinstall the drain plug. (28 ft lbs)
Optional: You can remove the two 10mm bolts on the underbody flap and remove the filter from the bottom of the car. I never do, but here are the pics of where the filter is in relation to the flap.
Step 4. The best way to figure out how to get the oil filter out is to wiggle a new one into the crevice to get an idea of how to get the old filter out. First remove the transmission dip stick. This small amount of extra room pays off later. Next follow the steps pictured here:
Step 5. Once you have your path figured out, loosen the filter slightly with the wrench. When it is just loose enough for you to remove by hand but not so loose that oil is coming out, stop. Now, place the plastic bag under the oil filter flange, as high as it will go. Once in place, quickly spin the filter off, letting it fall into the bag.
Step 6. Gather the bang and gently pull the filter out, wide open side first. I rarely spill almost any oil, so I know it is possible.
Step 7. I always fill my filter with fresh oil to about ¾ full. This helps in getting oil to the engine faster. Does it hurt not to? Probably not, but it’s a habit.
Step 8. Make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter. Be sure the new filter gasket has lube on it. If it does not, put a thin coat of oil on the gasket. Reinstall the filter hand tight, but very snug. Do not use the filter wrench to put the filter back on. Reinstall the transmission dip stick.
Step 9. Use a funnel to put oil back into the crankcase. When I did my spark plug replacement, there was a pool of oil in the first cylinder. This was likely from missed oil fills. I would prefer if I did not find that in the future. The car requires 5.7 quarts with a filter change.
Step 10. Lower the car off the jack stands. Start the car and allow it to idle for a minute or so checking the filter and the drain plug for leaks. Stop the car, wait a few minutes and top off the car if necessary.