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Oil Change *DIY* Lots of Pics ***Printable PDF Attached***

41K views 85 replies 58 participants last post by  thirtytwo24 
#1 · (Edited)
A few .Net members have asked me to do a DIY for the oil change. I was originally not going to do one, so I hope this helps a few people.

PDF procedures and pictures attached at the bottom

DISCLAIMER: The procedures, methods and products written up here was for my circumstances only and were performed on a 2001 Automatic. I make no promises that your results will be the same nor do I claim that this is the best way to do it. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

WARNING: Automotive fluids are not good for you. I have no reason do doubt the statement that used fluids are carcinogenic. Use latex gloves when handling used automotive fluid, and wash hands soon after you are complete with the task.

WARNING on working under a raised vehicle: This procedure requires that he vehicle be raised. Do not depend on the jack alone. Use jack stands and place them under the lift points as described in the owner’s manual.

Time Required: 40-45 minutes

Oil Pan Drain Crush Washer Part Number: 12031 cost $1.15

Oil Filter Part Number: 90915-YZZD1 cost $7.89

6 Quarts 5w30 oil. (Purchased Mobil 1 Synthetic at Costco for $24.95 + CRV)
Qty Needed: 5.7 qts (6 bottles)

Tools Needed:
-Oil Filter Wrench
-14mm combination wrench
-14mm 3/8” deep socket
-Torque wrench capable of up to 50 ft lbs
-Plastic bag (I like Target bags and thick produce bags from the supermarket. Choose a bag that is stretchy, and not brittle (like plastic grocery handle bags). When you pull the filter out, there are a lot of sharp edges and a thick pliable bag works best to prevent oil getting everywhere.
-Funnel

Optional:
-10mm socket
-3/8” ratchet


You can work on a hot or cold car but I prefer working on a cold car. A few reasons: the oil filter is pretty deep in the engine and my arm touches the intake manifold which gets really hot. I don’t really like working with scalding hot oil. When the car is cold more of the oil will be in the pan, but it will flow slower. Your choice, but I choose cold.

Step 1. Jack up the front of the car and put the car and stands.
Step 2. Remove the 14mm drain bolt and drain the oil.


Step 3. Replace the crush washer with a new one, clean the drain plug and the oil pan, and reinstall the drain plug. (28 ft lbs)

Optional: You can remove the two 10mm bolts on the underbody flap and remove the filter from the bottom of the car. I never do, but here are the pics of where the filter is in relation to the flap.



Step 4. The best way to figure out how to get the oil filter out is to wiggle a new one into the crevice to get an idea of how to get the old filter out. First remove the transmission dip stick. This small amount of extra room pays off later. Next follow the steps pictured here:



Step 5. Once you have your path figured out, loosen the filter slightly with the wrench. When it is just loose enough for you to remove by hand but not so loose that oil is coming out, stop. Now, place the plastic bag under the oil filter flange, as high as it will go. Once in place, quickly spin the filter off, letting it fall into the bag.



Step 6. Gather the bang and gently pull the filter out, wide open side first. I rarely spill almost any oil, so I know it is possible.


Step 7. I always fill my filter with fresh oil to about ¾ full. This helps in getting oil to the engine faster. Does it hurt not to? Probably not, but it’s a habit.
Step 8. Make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter. Be sure the new filter gasket has lube on it. If it does not, put a thin coat of oil on the gasket. Reinstall the filter hand tight, but very snug. Do not use the filter wrench to put the filter back on. Reinstall the transmission dip stick.
Step 9. Use a funnel to put oil back into the crankcase. When I did my spark plug replacement, there was a pool of oil in the first cylinder. This was likely from missed oil fills. I would prefer if I did not find that in the future. The car requires 5.7 quarts with a filter change.
Step 10. Lower the car off the jack stands. Start the car and allow it to idle for a minute or so checking the filter and the drain plug for leaks. Stop the car, wait a few minutes and top off the car if necessary.
 

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#8 ·
sMoKeScReEn said:
If you need a DIY for an oil change you should drive to your nearest Jiffy lube! :lol:

i do all my own installs, but when i was under the car looking at the oil filter for the first i was like Sh*T thats gonna be a bitch to take out, i'm sure i would have figured it out after messing with it for a while but isnt it easier that someone pointed out for the best way to get the filter out???

Thanks for the DIY
 
#10 ·
black86 said:
have you tried the 90915-YZZD3 filter? is there enough clearance?
No, have not tried that filter. I can try to get that filter next time I get filters. I still have 5 more of the style I used left over. As long as the other filter is not over 1/2" longer and no wider, I don't see any reason that it would not work.
 
#11 ·
Great write up, a man of your words. I PM'd him a few months ago regarding this and he said he would do it. Perfect timing time for an oil change in my car :). I'll probably do it next weekend.
 
#12 ·
manuels_madness said:
Great write up, a man of your words. I PM'd him a few months ago regarding this and he said he would do it. Perfect timing time for an oil change in my car :). I'll probably do it next weekend.
Glad I could help. Was going to PM you, but I cleaned our my inbox and could not remember who it was that asked me to do this.

Cheers
 
#14 ·
Nice article. After reading all the posts, I think I will leave it to the dealer to change my oil. I'll have to bite the bullit and pay big bucks, but I am not even about to tackle this bag of worms.

I work at a Ford Dealership in Sales, I wouldn't even think of leaving my car for our grease monkeys in the service department to change my oil.
 
#15 ·
carguy1 said:
Nice article. After reading all the posts, I think I will leave it to the dealer to change my oil. I'll have to bite the bullit and pay big bucks, but I am not even about to tackle this bag of worms.

I work at a Ford Dealership in Sales, I wouldn't even think of leaving my car for our grease monkeys in the service department to change my oil.
Don't let my over anal posts scare you off. It takes me < 30 minutes to change the oil on the IS. Probably less than 20 if I am in a rush (which I try to to be when I work under a car).

Give it a try. It really is very, VERY easy. The only reason I did a DIY was beacause a few .netters asked me to.

Cheers.
 
#19 ·
did you just jack up the front of the car?
 
#21 ·
Hiroshima said:
Yes just the front.
Interesting. I heard that to change the oil, the whole vehicle must be level to ensure that all the old oil drips out correctly? I would imagine that if some of the old oil didn't come out, it probably wouldn't be a bid deal, especially with Synthetic. Just Curious.
 
#22 ·
86b said:
1 quart = 1 liter?? :confused:
google says 1 us quart = .94635295 liters


Also, plus rep for DIY
 
#25 ·
JayMarino said:
Interesting. I heard that to change the oil, the whole vehicle must be level to ensure that all the old oil drips out correctly? I would imagine that if some of the old oil didn't come out, it probably wouldn't be a bid deal, especially with Synthetic. Just Curious.
I personally just do the front. On my other honda's the bolts are in various places, If I am lucky they are toward the end the is tilted BACK when I lift one side of the car. On the IS, since it is on the side, I would say that if you want to get ALL of the oil out, pull the drain plug, lower the car (leaving the jack under the car) and let it sit for an hour. Then jack it back up and reinstall the bolt.

But I would guess that you may get 1/2 a cup of extra oil out. Not that important IMHO, but to each their own.

Jeff
 
#26 ·
Do you guys know if the YZZF2 filter will cause any leak? It is slightly smaller and I think it is for the 2JZ-GTE motor. It fits onto our motor fine, however, it is smaller in diameter, probably by 2mm.

I thought the oil filters for the GE and GTE motors were all the same.

Thanks in advance.
 
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