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Discussion Starter #1
I've scoured the forum and can't seem to find a direct answer to this question.

I'd like to run both of my post-cat O2 sensors from B2S1, effectively deleting B2S2, BUT unlike all of the threads which I have seen about doing this, I would like to do so by splicing together the harnesses for the 02 sensors themselves, not by splicing connections at the ECU.

I know there are 4 wires for each sensor at the connectors; both black are for the heater circuit, blue is signal to ECU and white is a constant ground. my question is, does the order of the black wires matter when I splice them into each other and if so, what is correct? I'd assume it doesn't matter, but I don't want to go through the trouble of doing it and having it not work or messing something up, if someone can give me a straight up answer and save me the headache.
 

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It is easier to simulate both S2 post sensors. Reason being. There must be a variance in the responding sensors. So to speak. You can splice the two S1 primary senors.
I assume you are running a turbo. If not. Do not spice. Splicing itself has issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is easier to simulate both S2 post sensors. Reason being. There must be a variance in the responding sensors. So to speak. You can splice the two S1 primary senors.
I assume you are running a turbo. If not. Do not spice. Splicing itself has issues.
Well, if I were to splice the 2 primary O2 sensors into 1, then I’d still like to utilize the same approach. So my question about the 2 heater circuit wires still stands.

Also, if needing a slight variance between the 2 post-cat sensors is an issue, I could reasonably put a low impedance resistor in-line with one of the signal wires so that the voltage will read slightly lower for that sensor.
 

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Well, if I were to splice the 2 primary O2 sensors into 1, then I’d still like to utilize the same approach. So my question about the 2 heater circuit wires still stands.

Also, if needing a slight variance between the 2 post-cat sensors is an issue, I could reasonably put a low impedance resistor in-line with one of the signal wires so that the voltage will read slightly lower for that sensor.
Heater is easy. Just a load resister. Around 20ohm if I remember.
Signal is more complicated than resistance. It is a digital style. Sort of. Square wave deal. It is looking for timing and resistance with duration. The sim is a simple circuit to make. Available online and Karl long makes some with the heater done also. His is plug and play. Also not badly priced.
 
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