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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys. At first please don't kill me because of my English, I'm from Germany.

So, my IS was leaking pretty bad, it came from the crankshaft seal. So I decided to replace the camseals aswell. I used a new timing belt at the reassemble. Lined up the Yellow mark on the crank pulley with the 0 on the timing belt cover, both cams got lined up with dots and the timing belt cover behind the cams.

After everything was done I tried to rotate the engine with a ratchet clockwise, after 2 revolutions everything lined up like it should. I started the car and it started right up but was idling very rough, brake booster didn't work and I could not move over around 2.5k rpm. I thought about the right camshaft with the vvti pulley. Opened my Techstream and tried a active test with VVT Control (Bank 1). My car died instantly and since that I cannot start it up.

Could I have cracked something serious in the engine or what's the problem right now? Im 99% sure that the timing is right and I did not broke a teeth of the crank thing (don't know the right designation of it in English...) I need the car for the daily drive to work, need help pretty fast.

Edit: Changed spark plugs, same problem.

Thank you in advance guys. Love this page.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I forgot to mention that the Car is choking and when I give it some gas it backfires
 

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I forgot to mention that the Car is choking and when I give it some gas it backfires
I bet you lined up the yellow dots on the cam gears instead of the notches on the game gears.

You need to line up the crank pulley to the “0” mark and you then need to make sure the cans are line up with the little jumps on the timing cover BEHIND the cam gears. You need to take off the cover that says VVTI on it to see those marks behind the cam gears.
DON’T line up the cam gear “DOTS” but instead line up the NOTCHES on the cam gears to the humps.
 

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Keep in mind that as you are turning the crank CLOCKWISE to line up the crank mark to the “0” on the timing cover, the will be TWO marks on the crank pulley. You will want to SKIP the first mark you come up on and there will be a second mark that needs to be lined up to the ZERO mark. So the FURTHEST left (looking at the engine) mark is the mark that needs to line up to the ZERO MARK. Then one up the notches (NOT THE DOTS) on the cam gears to the humps on the upper timing guide.
 

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If you have a search around you will find there are probably 2 or 3 common issues when people do their timing belts.

1. Getting the teeth in the right places, making sure the correct timing marks are lined up on the crank and the cam pulleys. On these engines there are 2 marks on both, most find it best to have the crank pulley set to zero and use the grooves in the cams to line up with the marks on the cam sheild. See photo below.
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2. If the crank seal is being replaced the bottom timing belt gear needs to be removed. To remove it you should remove the gold coloured retainer tab, but some dont see it and pull the gear off damaging the crank sensor timing marks. When it is back together the teeth are damaged and the firing order gets messed up. See the pic below, red arrow is the retainer, green is the crank sensor timing marks
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3. Damaged clips or connectors, usually on the coil packs, or even damaged coil packs themselves. Sometimes they just arent seated quite right or can work loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey. Thanks for the suggestions so far.

I just used the dots to line up the cams because I used the yellow mark (first when turning clockwise) of the crank pulley as well. The crank gear is OK, no teeth broken. Times that right as well and retainer went off before installing and back at reassemble. I thought about coils aswell, but why should they have gone off right after I activated the vvt control in techstream?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I think I know what the problem is finally... The OCV is very loose because I f***** up the thread to make it tight... The Filter of the OCV is completely broken and didn't even came out with the screw. Hope no broken plastic parts went into the Engine... You think this combined can cause a no start?
 

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So I think I know what the problem is finally... The OCV is very loose because I f***** up the thread to make it tight... The Filter of the OCV is completely broken and didn't even came out with the screw. Hope no broken plastic parts went into the Engine... You think this combined can cause a no start?
Well this would cause a no start or very poor idle at best. However while trying to stay optimistic, if the valve is seated into position and plugged up, it should be able to get some type of signal.

so to clarify the car will crank but not start? Or it will startup and run poorly?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Car is not running. When I crank it for about 2 seconds im getting backfire and bangs from the Intake.
 

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Posted a Video on YouTube, hope this is allowed here... When I hear it in the Video it sounds like zero compression. So many things to look at, don't know where to start anymore 😁

Video of the problem
Well backfiring normally would point to timing being off. Unfortunately you should probably check the timing marks on the notches on the cam gears again and make sure they are right. Then check compression.
 

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Start with the easiest and obvious. Get the VVTI back on in working order, then double check your timing marks look like the the ones i posted above with the engine turned in the right direction so the VVTI gear isnt unwound. You dont need to pull much off to get to the cam gears and check the timing. Then i would be trying to remember if you removed that retainer before pulling the crank gear off, as any damage to the timing gear will mean it wont fire when it should.

Also worth checking to see if the ECU is giving any error codes.
 

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Sorry to say it sounds like you mistimed it and when you activated the vvti, it caused piston to valve contact damage. I seen this before at my old dealer. You need to double check the timing, sounds like the vvti gear was rotated to me. Verify the crank trigger is correct, the pulley mark is not as accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So, because i didn't want to open up my Engine with 400k Kilometres on it i just selled my Engine for 500 Euros. Right now im looking at a 93 Supra 2jz-ge non vvti NA-T. I think we can close this thread and i go for another one to get some help with wiring and other stuff. Congrats to all of u
 

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So, because i didn't want to open up my Engine with 400k Kilometres on it i just selled my Engine for 500 Euros. Right now im looking at a 93 Supra 2jz-ge non vvti NA-T. I think we can close this thread and i go for another one to get some help with wiring and other stuff. Congrats to all of u
Wait, don’t give up that easily. Checking the timing is easy. Just pull off the VVTI cover. Cam gears will be exposed. From there you can turn the motor over by hand. You may also check to see if there is any binding while doing so. Pulling the plugs out would help you determine if there is binding or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Checked the timing 3 times and it's 100% correct. I think when I activated the vvti my pistons gone towards the valves and this is the problem right now like @theraflu mentioned above. The Engine is on 400k kilometres and I really don't think it's worth to spend it a new head/valves/pistons.
 

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It is not time correctly. You missed something. Make sure the tension is right and the marks line up with the VVTi gear clocked right.
This is what I’ve been trying to tell him but damn if people don’t listen. 🤷🏽‍♂️ The VVTi has been activated EVERY SINGLE TIME you have started the car in your ownership. Do you not understand that? When you did the timing belt, you have problems BECAUSE you set the timing wrong and to the INCORRECT marks. Like it or not. You want to keep thinking it’s a VVTI problem. Again not trying to be rude, it’s a mistake that has heavy consequences unfortunately.
 

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Or . . . . maybe damn if people arent listening to him ;). Its a good enough reason as any to just replace the engine with 400k on it, and while you are there go boost if you are getting a good deal on another engine... :cool:
 
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