[IS300GTE]

alright, lots of misinformation

nitrous has a "cooling effect" because it changes from a liquid to a gas at around 600F under atmospheric pressure. when it goes into the intake manifold, its a gaseous form, because the intake manifold is below ~600F

the reason nitrous is hard on the drivetrain is torque. an extra 100hp or tq from nitrous is just that, in less then a second that much extra torque (which is also stress) is applied to an engine. which is much harder than gradual application of extra torque.

for example, how do you break something loose, such as a rusted bolt ... do you sit there and pull, and steadily increase the pressure put on the bolt with your arm muscles, or do you "jerk" on the rachet hoping that the sudden impact will loosen the bolt? i don't know about you all, but i'll jerk on it, that sudden change in torque is much harder on the bolt (comparable to the crankshaft) and will break it loose. if you were to steadily increase torque on the bolt by 25 foot pounds per second, there is a good chance it would not break loose at all

its all about the steep variations

-gte

 

[Wino_II]

ook. but what about the internals? why do i hear that nitrous is bad for the internals? isn't it because of the high heat it creates with a larger explosion?

 

[IS300GTE]

the piston and rod are the lever arm at which creates torque on the crank, which is then transfered through the clutch/drivetrain, to the wheels ...

herego (j/k)

nitrous increases cylinder pressure and temperatures, and it does it at a rate that is much steeper than a turbo or supercharger. it also makes it harder to control, and less forgiving if shit happens, which is why it could be harder on the internals.

the internals don't care how peak cylinder pressure is given, be it nitrous, turbocharger or supercharger, its stress, period, if the peak is the same ... but how quickly it is reached, and how controlled it is, can be the breaking point, or savior to the life of the motor.

see the rusty bolt analogy, and think of it in terms of stress

-gte

ook. but what about the internals? why do i hear that nitrous is bad for the internals? isn't it because of the high heat it creates with a larger explosion?

 

[IS300GTE]

i also think (although i have no measured data to support this) that nitrous, and its violent or sudden changes in cylinder pressure, creates greater hot spots in the cylinder

it also reaches peak torque much faster, which is good for performance, bad for cylinder pressure

-gte

 

[rllinghardis300]

^^^^How much were you spraying when you ran that 15.2?

15.21 @ 89.5 mph "Speed is not what kills, it's the stupidity"

I just got back from the Carlsbad track. I ran a 15.17 @ 94.21, no nitrous.

 

[blueIS]

f' it.
when using N2O, do it at your own damn risk :crazy: (its true tho)

 

[HyperMKIV]

one more thing that was not mentioned is that in order for the N2O to be of any use in automotive aplications, you have to break the bond so the combustion can actually use the oxygen...in order for this to occur, you have to have a really high temperature...i don't remember the actual temp...but i'm pretty sure it was higher than 425 degrees...

now with that said...when someone says nitrous oxide is good cause it lowers your intake temp, this is true...but in order for you to actually use the oxygen in the combustion chamber, you have to heat it up to a certain temp anyway...so basically all it's benifiting you is the added density in the cylinder...which is what nitrous oxide is doing anyway...a denser make up of oxygen...

hope this makes sense...

 

[blueIS]

i think its around 550F

 

[DarkStorm]

I stole this from holley.com:

Q: How does nitrous work?
A: Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F, nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "intercooling" effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.

According to another Q&A, nitrous does NOT cool the engine. The extra combustion cycles generate more heat, regardless of the temp of the nitrous.

Nitrous does however cool the charged air running through your intake or intercooler. It can lower a car's intake temperature by 75F according to the quote above. With a lowered intake temperature, you can cram more into the same space so more oxygen can get into each cylinder. N20 is compressed and there's a lot more oxygen in that bottle than you think. When it burns, it releases oxygen (that would not normally be there) As stated above, the extra oxygen allows for burning of more fuel to get more power.

As gte said, the dramatic power change is what tends to f up cars. Trannys don't like to go from 100-200hp/tq. + in a split second. Rods and pistons take a beating going from 2000-8000rpms in a sudden jolt of power, not to mention a considerable amount more heat then they are designed for. With a turbo, the jolt is smoothed out. It doesn't feel like it when you ride in a turbo car, but compared to nitrous it is a much more gradual application of the power. Look at a dyno of an IS with a 100 or 125 shot and a turbo IS (like a stage 1). Relatively similar power, but the power curve on the nitrous car will be much steeper much sooner while the turbo car might be taller (more hp). I think there are some dynos in the sticky at the top of this forum.

There are two types of kits (generally speaking). Wet kits and dry kits. Dry kits throw a solenoid into your intake and you cross your fingers and hit the button. With a wet kit, you have additional fuel added. Some use an extra injector other a return fuel line or bigger injectors. One way or another, extra fuel is added. These are usually >25hp shot kits.

Both kits can lead to detonation and engine failure quickly if not properly installed. Wet kits add additional fuel which keeps everything running nice and rich, assuming proper install, to avoid detonation. From what I've seen in the forums thus far, most people running a 100 shot report little issues with engine failures. Shifting problems on the auto seem to be the biggest problem they have mentioned.

So here ya go, pros and cons:

Pros:
Cheap
Easily achieve a lot of power
Relatively safe if installed properly
Emissions friendly
Extra exhaust gasses spin up turbos hellafast
Lower charged intake temps

Cons:
Sudden jolts can wear on the engine and transmission quickly
Poorly or incorrectly setup nitrous systems can lead to detonation and engine failure
Higher engine temperatures which can lead to engine failure
You can run out of nitrous
Overheated bottles can explode, leaving a hole in the ground where your car used to be
On our cars, anything over 50shot causes tranny to bounce off the redline (auto)

Feel free to add to those lists as I'm sure there are plenty more pros/cons. Hope this helps out some

 

[phamous101]

in my bros T78 supra, the boost feels just like a N2O car. boost gauge jumps from 7 psi to 22psi in about half a seccond!! its crazy as hell and cuzes serious wheel spin. even in 3rd.

oh, one more thing. one reason why i think that u hear lots of engine damage with N2O is that HP can be increased very easily for very cheap. as little as $20. all it takes is a pill with a bigger oriface. guys with nitrous get power happy and keep bumpin the pills up.

 

[IS300luver]

Thats why all it comes down to is knowing the limits and spraying responsibly. Also, to help with the ware on my tranny what do u guys suggest i do, things like a valve body upgrade, tourque converter, and etc.

 

[NItrouS 300]

^^^^How much were you spraying when you ran that 15.2?

Please re-read my sig.

 

[NItrouS 300]

^^^^How much were you spraying when you ran that 15.2?

15.21 @ 89.5 mph "Speed is not what kills, it's the stupidity"

I just got back from the Carlsbad track. I ran a 15.17 @ 94.21, no nitrous.

Please re-read my sig. Sounds like we run about the same, although your mph is interestingly high...auto correct?

 

[NItrouS 300]

From the NOS Website

Nitrous Progressive Controller (which can essentially alleviate the problem with breaking something due to instant torque, the main disadvantage folks say nitrous has over T/C S/C....not an issue if you use this), see below:

"A major concern of any racer is being able to "hook up" for optimum performance. This is especially true of cars equipped with nitrous systems, as applying hundreds of extra horsepower can often over-power the traction available with a given chassis, tire and track condition. Through applying nitrous gradually, or in stages, it is possible to give the car as much power as it can handle at any point on the track. Extensive testing has proven the use of NOS controllers to dramatically lower elapsed times in many applications.
Programmable Progressive Nitrous Controller
This top-of-the-line unit can be programmed to control both the amount of nitrous that is flowed to the engine (from 0-100%) and the time desired to "ramp up" from first hit to full flow. For example, you can program the controller to flow 25% of the nitrous 1.5 seconds into the run and increase it to 75% nitrous at 5.3 seconds. Or, it can go all the way to 100% much sooner. This enables a racer to "fine tune" the power curve of an engine to best utilize prevailing conditions. It can also be used to activate a retard box or 2nd stage of nitrous. Clearly, this is the most sophisticated progressive nitrous controller available today. However, it is very easy to use, and each function is set through simply turning a series of dials to the desired position and pushing a "program" button.

NOTE: All NOS controllers are safe to use with any NOS solenoids. Other manufacturer's may have excessive draw. Nitrous solenoids should not exceed 10 amps; fuel soleniods should not exceed 5 amps."

 

[MSM MT IS300]

also there is this thingy from NX, that moniters all the important engine crap, and can be set to gradually step up the dosage during mid spray...

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/maximizer.html

 

[NItrouS 300]

also there is this thingy from NX, that moniters all the important engine crap, and can be set to gradually step up the dosage during mid spray...

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/maximizer.html

Same concept, different designs...

Personally I like the NOS version better so far because it looks like it might be more user friendly. I don't see how four buttons numbered from 1-4 can be as ergonomic. Of course, pictures don't tell everything. I'm only beginning to research the "Next Generation" version of controllers.

 

[rllinghardis300]

^^^^How much were you spraying when you ran that 15.2?

15.21 @ 89.5 mph "Speed is not what kills, it's the stupidity"

I just got back from the Carlsbad track. I ran a 15.17 @ 94.21, no nitrous.

Please re-read my sig. Sounds like we run about the same, although your mph is interestingly high...auto correct?

I was asking Boost the same thing, he had a lower time but lower MPH. Yes I have an auto.. that was my best time, but I was averaging 15.29 - 15.34...

 

[CZAR]

I got an NOS big shot wet kit, Currently spraying 150 shot and running a Walbro fuel pump. I hope everybody with Nitrous upgrades there fuel pump. Everybody that i havve heard that does not blows there shiet up. Call Toyomoto and talk to Douglas, he had an
IS with 400hp with just I/H/E & of course nitrous.

 

[phamous101]

I got an NOS big shot wet kit, Currently spraying 150 shot and running a Walbro fuel pump. I hope everybody with Nitrous upgrades there fuel pump. Everybody that i havve heard that does not blows there shiet up. Call Toyomoto and talk to Douglas, he had an
IS with 400hp with just I/H/E & of course nitrous.

ever dynoed w/150 shot?

 

[unirvt]

Okay, so I read all through here, and still would like to know:

Anyone on here have any experience or reliable knowledge running a 75 shot or so (NX wet kit) on a basically stock IS? It'd be occasional use only; this car is my daily and I don't want it to be loud or lose its reliability. (i.e don't want big exhaust, etc.)

I'm not going for record 1/4 mile times, but would like a little extra power every once in a while, so long as I'm not going to trash my car doing it.

The above questions assume of course that I install/use the kit competently, which shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks guys.