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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all!
I bought a virginal 01 is300 in january, and i want to upgrade the suspension (first!). I've been doing lots of reading on the site and i've learned lots of great stuff, but i want to put a simple question out there.
If i want to keep my stock wheels, and not drastically lower the car, but i want to eliminate as much of the body roll as possible without sacrificing ride quality, what is the best combination of suspension components that i should use?
Obviously, i don't want to go nuts and blow a bunch of money, but i really like this car and don't mind to spend for quality.
Any and all help would be appreciated! Thanks!
 

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you might want to look into strut bars, they will def eliminate body roll. If you lower, I suggest you get a camber kit from figs to eliminate tire wear. Otherwise you will go through a few sets of tires a year. my suspension is completely stock, so I am speaking from reading what other members have posted.

p.s. what do you mean by virginal? I think I know what your trying to say but I would be a little cautious about the words you use on this forum, or you'll be the subject of ridicule. Just a heads up. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
nah, NV, i stand by my words. thats the one i wanted. she's virginal- i.e. unmolested, bone stock, pure..

but not for long!

thanks for the advice! btw, how do i do +rep?
 

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you might want to look into strut bars, they will def eliminate body roll. If you lower, I suggest you get a camber kit from figs to eliminate tire wear. Otherwise you will go through a few sets of tires a year. my suspension is completely stock, so I am speaking from reading what other members have posted.
you dont need a camber kit if you're dropped on eibach pro kits do you? you only need a camber kit if you're dropped pretty low right?
 

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Until you get to 50 post your rep wont effect others. But you click the button that say "rep" on the left side of this under my little picture. See it? click it, and then tell me how cool I am! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
frustrated!

dammit! i'm useless around here! i can't sell my tvs, i can't give people props.. what the hell is this!?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok, just to update this a bit..

i went with the eibach sway bar kit - front & rear. love it and would do it again if spending the same money made the same difference.

thinking next of shocks. anyone?
 

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ok, just to update this a bit..

i went with the eibach sway bar kit - front & rear. love it and would do it again if spending the same money made the same difference.

thinking next of shocks. anyone?
You still can't leave rep. I almost neg repped you because it showed up looking like you neg repped me because of your lack of posts you only give out gray boxes.
 

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You still can't leave rep. I almost neg repped you because it showed up looking like you neg repped me because of your lack of posts you only give out gray boxes.
Honestly, rep is useless and is nothing more than a mere circle jerk.


you might want to look into strut bars, they will def eliminate body roll. If you lower, I suggest you get a camber kit from figs to eliminate tire wear. Otherwise you will go through a few sets of tires a year. my suspension is completely stock, so I am speaking from reading what other members have posted.

p.s. what do you mean by virginal? I think I know what your trying to say but I would be a little cautious about the words you use on this forum, or you'll be the subject of ridicule. Just a heads up. :p
lol WHAT?!

Way to spread misinformation. A strut bar is USELESS for affecting body roll in his car.

Camber kit? Why? His car is near stock and he can still adjust within factory specs with the stock eccentric bolts.

Try not to comment on something you are unsure about.

It could lead the OP into buying something he does not need/might not ever need.
 

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you might want to look into strut bars, they will def eliminate body roll. If you lower, I suggest you get a camber kit from figs to eliminate tire wear. Otherwise you will go through a few sets of tires a year. my suspension is completely stock, so I am speaking from reading what other members have posted.

p.s. what do you mean by virginal? I think I know what your trying to say but I would be a little cautious about the words you use on this forum, or you'll be the subject of ridicule. Just a heads up. :p
few sets of tires per year? wtf? i think most tires for our cars are good for 30k-60k miles right? average road miles are 10k-15k per year (depending where you live?) .. your saying that if you lower the car without the camber fix, your going to get 5k miles per set of tires? LOL!
 

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few sets of tires per year? wtf? i think most tires for our cars are good for 30k-60k miles right? average road miles are 10k-15k per year (depending where you live?) .. your saying that if you lower the car without the camber fix, your going to get 5k miles per set of tires? LOL!
Read my post prior to yours.

I'd take a grain of salt before I took his information.

As long as a car can align within specs and isn't driven like a race car around every corner you should be able to get good life out of them.

Toe is what kills tires.

Camber, not so much.
 

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Toe is what kills tires.

Camber, not so much.
negative. idk where you're getting your information, but camber also affects tire wear just as much as toe-in. negative camber is a common problem with lowered vehicles, which results in excessive wear on the part of the tread closest to the inner sidewall. both of my rides are dropped more than an inch, and this is how i know.

my advice to you is get stiffer sway bars. i have a set of used cusco's i'm about to sell. install lowering springs with a decent drop and get an alignment. if the camber is too negative to be corrected by the camber bolt, THEN consider getting the camber plates.

here are optional suspension upgrades in case you decide to blow more dough: underbody brace, coilovers, strut bar (front and rear).
 

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when it comes to tires wearing fast its because you over paid some idiot to do your alignment. But anyway toe is obviously going to wear the shit out your tires and make them loud over time. And when I say making them loud i mean cupped, fleathered and so on. Camber will wear your tires but only the part that comes in contact with the road surface. If I were you and you wanted to lower your car I would really worry about toe issues and camber later on. I mean if you can lower your car and get toe and camber is spec that will yeild the best out come for sure! And anytime you lower your car its a good idea to get an alignment ASAP!
 

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when it comes to tires wearing fast its because you over paid some idiot to do your alignment. But anyway toe is obviously going to wear the shit out your tires and make them loud over time. And when I say making them loud i mean cupped, fleathered and so on. Camber will wear your tires but only the part that comes in contact with the road surface. If I were you and you wanted to lower your car I would really worry about toe issues and camber later on. I mean if you can lower your car and get toe and camber is spec that will yeild the best out come for sure! And anytime you lower your car its a good idea to get an alignment ASAP!
i heard NOT to get the alignment done asap after lowering, cause u want the springs/shocks to settle first, then do the alignment, so wait a week or two for that.
 

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^^ you're right about that, you want to wait a while before getting the alignment. i'm just not sure how long is correct, but i heard a week as well.
 

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negative. idk where you're getting your information, but camber also affects tire wear just as much as toe-in. negative camber is a common problem with lowered vehicles, which results in excessive wear on the part of the tread closest to the inner sidewall. both of my rides are dropped more than an inch, and this is how i know.

my advice to you is get stiffer sway bars. i have a set of used cusco's i'm about to sell. install lowering springs with a decent drop and get an alignment. if the camber is too negative to be corrected by the camber bolt, THEN consider getting the camber plates.

here are optional suspension upgrades in case you decide to blow more dough: underbody brace, coilovers, strut bar (front and rear).
I get my information from experience and common sense.

Re read my post. I said Toe kills tires more than camber.

I didn't say camber never affects tire wear like you make it out to be seen.

It's a known.

Don't try to act like you can defy logic and physics.

Tires that are scrubbing will wear down faster than those that aren't.

The reason your car went through tires more was due to the fact that after it was lowered, camber changed as well as toe.

If you have camber and toe out of spec, your insides will roast extremely quick.

While as if you have spec or no toe, camber alone won't kill them as fast.
 

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ok fine wait a few weeks to get an alignment and by that time your tires will be all cupped and feathered from your toe being out of spec. if i were you i would get an alignment right after the install and maybe a few weeks down the road. i dont know about you but i would rather pay for 2 alignments then 2 sets of tires. im just letting you know from my experience and trust me i have lowered tons of cars and the guys that waited to get the alignment had tire wear issues since the toe was not corrected. !ZAR! wasnt kidding about toe kiling your tires!
 

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i do alignments on my car once a month i work at a dealership so i do them whenever i want. but from my experience about lowering cars and what not I would do an alignment right after the car being lowered and then maybe a month after that. I mean even after you install new rims you should get an alignment done. it doesnt take much to take your toe adjustment out of spec. and the two things that will almost always take them out of spec is lowering a car and putting new rims on with a different offset.
 
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