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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
*** Update: 15JUL20 -

I replaced both sensors in the trans and the front pass ABS sensor. The codes in the ABS computer are all clear and staying gone. However, I still have a P0500 code. I’ve cleared it with my scan tool and pulled the battery for 4 minutes. The code pops after just a minute or two of driving. What am I missing? Speedo and all work fine, no other lights on dash.

***

Hey all! I just picked up a 2002 IS300 that has some issues. I’ve been searching and haven’t been able to find everything relevant so excuse the possible cringe. To preface this, I’ve wanted one of these for awhile and I found a good deal on this one and scooped it up. It’s had better days but only has 70k on the clock.
Issue 1: Fuel pump is brand new Wally 255. I can drive down the street for a bit then it just dies and won’t restart. If I pull the EFI relay (next to horn relay) and put it back in, it’ll fire right back up and run. Only code is P0500.
Issue 2: Driver window will not move at all. No noise when I hit the switch or anything. The passenger was okay till this morning when it went down then stopped half up. I had to inch it up over a few min to get it back in place.
This car has been a bit abused it seems but the chassis itself is clean and I’m planning a long term build. TIA. Pic of the turd.
135386
 

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My back right motor goes up a lil at a time unless I'm driving for five or ten min then it rolls up fine I just dont roll it all the way down and as for the car having only 70k on the dash then the previous owner probably swapped the cluster you will know if you get the full maintenance history or use a bore scope to check the valves and pistons witch is highly recommended imo as for it dieing let me look into it
 

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The P500 will not cause an issue like you have. That is a speed sensor on the tranny. They are cheap to replace. As for the start issue. Double check your wiring to the pump.

The window, you may need to trace the wiring back. If you can direct power the motor and it works. Also I am assuming the switches are good.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The P500 will not cause an issue like you have. That is a speed sensor on the tranny. They are cheap to replace. As for the start issue. Double check your wiring to the pump.

The window, you may need to trace the wiring back. If you can direct power the motor and it works. Also I am assuming the switches are good.
I’ve seen no issues with the wiring yet. I don’t understand why it dies suddenly then all I have to do is pull that efi relay and it’s good.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The P500 will not cause an issue like you have. That is a speed sensor on the tranny. They are cheap to replace. As for the start issue. Double check your wiring to the pump.

The window, you may need to trace the wiring back. If you can direct power the motor and it works. Also I am assuming the switches are good.
Regarding the windows, the driver side switch panel will roll all the windows minus the drivers itself. I’ll need to pull the panel and see if the wiring to the motor itself may be a-miss.
 

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I’ve seen no issues with the wiring yet. I don’t understand why it dies suddenly then all I have to do is pull that efi relay and it’s good.
Try replacing the relay with a new one. I think I remember it being the same as the horn. If not they are cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Try replacing the relay with a new one. I think I remember it being the same as the horn. If not they are cheap.
I’ve swapped it with the horn relay and the issue persists. Be driving fine and the motor just dies. Pop hood, lift the relay out, put it back in. Repeat.
 

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Aftermarket pump is wired how? Might be the new pump is drawing too much current for the stock set up but now enough to pop a fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Aftermarket pump is wired how? Might be the new pump is drawing too much current for the stock set up but now enough to pop a fuse.
I was wondering about this, but this dying/stalling problem was an issue before pump was changed as well. The pump was suspected by P/O and changed. I havent pulled the pump to see how it was wired but I was told that it was wired per instructions and given that it starts fine and runs, i didnt suspect the wiring on the pump itself to be an issue at this point. I dont know enough about the circuits to figure out the significance of why all I have to do is pull that EFI relay and put it back in and it will run again. Im going to purchase a new 30A today hopefully to put in and see what it does.
 

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Now we are getting somewhere. I think your TPS or APP sensor has a crack. When it gets hot enough it fails. Then power is removed long enough for it to cool off. Basically the time to pull over pop the hood etc..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Now we are getting somewhere. I think your TPS or APP sensor has a crack. When it gets hot enough it fails. Then power is removed long enough for it to cool off. Basically the time to pull over pop the hood etc..
okay, but if I pull over and don’t pull that efi relay, I can sit there for 15 min. It will not start. It will just crank. I HAVE to pull that relay to get it to start again.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ever since I ran a jumper in place of the FP relay it seems to stay running. I’ll report soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
All - so bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay has solved my issue it seems. However, after replacing the VSS near the tail of the trans I’m still getting p0500 code. The kicker, my Speedo works. I do have a c0200 code, would that cause the p0500? Either that, or from the cluster to the ECU I have a wiring issue. All I know is on my scanner, it never shows vehicle speed - stays 0. (Unless it’s reading wrong PID). Thanks.
 
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