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It doesn't matter whether the TC is on or off, the pedal feel is the same. I had to drive my car in traffic the other day and was getting annoyed with the stiff pedal (normally I drive it briefly on the weekend or during the week a couple miles to the gym). I think I'm going to take it out and shave a couple mm off it to see if I can remove some of the stiffness on the pedal, also loosen the throttle cable a bit.
 

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Well, the inevitable happened. I ran this part on my '02 manual for a few months, and I think it accelerated the wear in my throttle motor. I'm at almost 140k miles on the stock TB and motor, so I think it was about time for it to go anyway. I tried the TPS and that didn't solve my issue, so I have a used tb coming in the mail with the motor and sensors attached to it. I'm going to toss that one on and see if it solves the issue. If it does, I'm going to swap out parts until I find the culprit (mostly for my own knowledge). I did talk to Xcessive Manufacturing and they said that this throttle lock can wear your throttle motor faster, as you're always "fighting" it to open and close. I was really happy with the pedal feel and responsiveness with the lock installed, so it's pretty disappointing that I'll be so hesitant to put it in the new TB. I'll probably just leave that one on the workbench for a while..

EDIT: Forgot to explain my issue... Basically the throttle motor will cut out after a few seconds of the car running and it goes directly into limp mode. It was manageable with the throttle lock installed, as I didn't need to rely on the throttle motor, but I drive 30 miles to and from work every day, all highway miles, so cruise control is very valuable to me.
 

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yeah well they wanted $8 dollars shipping for a piece of plastic the size of a quarter so I passed.
 

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Well, the inevitable happened. I ran this part on my '02 manual for a few months, and I think it accelerated the wear in my throttle motor. I'm at almost 140k miles on the stock TB and motor, so I think it was about time for it to go anyway. I tried the TPS and that didn't solve my issue, so I have a used tb coming in the mail with the motor and sensors attached to it. I'm going to toss that one on and see if it solves the issue. If it does, I'm going to swap out parts until I find the culprit (mostly for my own knowledge). I did talk to Xcessive Manufacturing and they said that this throttle lock can wear your throttle motor faster, as you're always "fighting" it to open and close. I was really happy with the pedal feel and responsiveness with the lock installed, so it's pretty disappointing that I'll be so hesitant to put it in the new TB. I'll probably just leave that one on the workbench for a while..

EDIT: Forgot to explain my issue... Basically the throttle motor will cut out after a few seconds of the car running and it goes directly into limp mode. It was manageable with the throttle lock installed, as I didn't need to rely on the throttle motor, but I drive 30 miles to and from work every day, all highway miles, so cruise control is very valuable to me.
Why dont you try wiring in the new one as a "dummy"? You leave the existing throttle connected with the plastic so still have direct throttle response, but have the TPS, APS and motor connected to the dummy hanging somewhere else? You will obviously loose traction control and cruise control, but as far as the ECU knows you have it still connected though its all sitting to the side freewheeling so nothing to wear it out prematurely. I would also try and tape it up so no risk of fingers getting caught in the open throttle body. Some guys relocate it under the passenger seat, though i found you need to use very low resistance cables going to it or else the ECU picks up that something isn't right with the extra cables added.
 

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Why dont you try wiring in the new one as a "dummy"? You leave the existing throttle connected with the plastic so still have direct throttle response, but have the TPS, APS and motor connected to the dummy hanging somewhere else? You will obviously loose traction control and cruise control, but as far as the ECU knows you have it still connected though its all sitting to the side freewheeling so nothing to wear it out prematurely. I would also try and tape it up so no risk of fingers getting caught in the open throttle body. Some guys relocate it under the passenger seat, though i found you need to use very low resistance cables going to it or else the ECU picks up that something isn't right with the extra cables added.
So I assume when you use this dummy throttle body, it is the entire throttle body assembly as opposed to just the dbw motor?
 

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So I assume when you use this dummy throttle body, it is the entire throttle body assembly as opposed to just the dbw motor?
Yes, the sensors need to know they are reading the motor moving so need to be attached somehow, a second TB is the easiest.
 

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Why dont you try wiring in the new one as a "dummy"? You leave the existing throttle connected with the plastic so still have direct throttle response, but have the TPS, APS and motor connected to the dummy hanging somewhere else? You will obviously loose traction control and cruise control, but as far as the ECU knows you have it still connected though its all sitting to the side freewheeling so nothing to wear it out prematurely. I would also try and tape it up so no risk of fingers getting caught in the open throttle body. Some guys relocate it under the passenger seat, though i found you need to use very low resistance cables going to it or else the ECU picks up that something isn't right with the extra cables added.
I've actually been considering this. I want to take stock of the new part first and see how it looks then I'll weigh my options.
 

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It doesn't matter whether the TC is on or off, the pedal feel is the same. I think I'm going to take it out and shave a couple mm off it to see if I can remove some of the stiffness on the pedal, also loosen the throttle cable a bit.

Anyone have thoughts on shaving it down at all?
 

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Anyone have thoughts on shaving it down at all?
i know loosening the cable adds a delay to the reaction time from foot moving to throttle moving. I tightened mine up to try and get better throttle responce but still using the DBW setup. I would imagine shaving the plastic is only going to have the same effect, adding a delay. The resistance or heavy feel is your foot fighting against the DBW motor, you can confirm by pulling out the motor and comparing the feel.
 

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i know loosening the cable adds a delay to the reaction time from foot moving to throttle moving. I tightened mine up to try and get better throttle responce but still using the DBW setup. I would imagine shaving the plastic is only going to have the same effect, adding a delay. The resistance or heavy feel is your foot fighting against the DBW motor, you can confirm by pulling out the motor and comparing the feel.
BRB, pulling motor real quick ?
 

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I just installed mine yesterday, and have the stiffer pedal as well. I don't think it's too big of a problem really, you just need to adjust your driving in traffic but when you put the pedal to the metal it doesn't matter. I could tell it opened fully when I had the whole throttle body off in my hand at my work bench. I still don't know why it would be stiffer though.

I'm considering doing the LS400 VVTI throttle body soon, just wondering if I could use this type of throttle lock on that throttle body as well? Anyone know if it'll work?
did you or any body try this locking mechanism on the V8 TB?
 

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does anyone still currently using this have any input they can share? looks like a great mod to do
 

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does anyone still currently using this have any input they can share? looks like a great mod to do
It's a good mod for throttle response but it does make the throttle extremely stiff to operate. For daily driving I'm torn if I like it or not, on the track it makes it better.
 

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It's a good mod for throttle response but it does make the throttle extremely stiff to operate. For daily driving I'm torn if I like it or not, on the track it makes it better.
ohhh okay. thanks for the response! how much more stiffer is it to operate? will i still be able to heel-toe? haha
 

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ohhh okay. thanks for the response! how much more stiffer is it to operate? will i still be able to heel-toe? haha
Yes, I can still heal and toe on the track. On the street it just feels weird. It's significantly more stiff than stock, I don't know how more to describe it really.
 

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Yes, I can still heal and toe on the track. On the street it just feels weird. It's significantly more stiff than stock, I don't know how more to describe it really.
Like pushing against a little electric motor or generator? :D
 

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Figured I'd add some info to this because I just installed this into my NA-T automatic on stock ECU yesterday. I drove about 50 miles today with it. The pedal stiffness was noticeable but I got used to it quickly. The improvement in throttle response from a dead stop and also snap WOT response is significant. I used a spare TB so if anything bad happens with the throttle motors then I'll just put the original one back on without the throttle lock. For now I'm going to keep it installed because I like the benefits it offers. No engine codes at all and I didn't notice any other issues with how the engine runs.
 

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Figured I'd add some info to this because I just installed this into my NA-T automatic on stock ECU yesterday. I drove about 50 miles today with it. The pedal stiffness was noticeable but I got used to it quickly. The improvement in throttle response from a dead stop and also snap WOT response is significant. I used a spare TB so if anything bad happens with the throttle motors then I'll just put the original one back on without the throttle lock. For now I'm going to keep it installed because I like the benefits it offers. No engine codes at all and I didn't notice any other issues with how the engine runs.
Back in the day. There was one from another company that would allow the cruise to still work. Forget who it was. I remember it was around $400.
 

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Back in the day. There was one from another company that would allow the cruise to still work. Forget who it was. I remember it was around $400.
Theres one by a company called Premium Japan or something like that, not sure if that's who you are thinking of.
 
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