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-Information and Pics from Xcessive Manufacturing-

Full Throttle W/O throwing a code.
2JZ-GE Throttle Lock
$17.00



https://xcessivemanufacturing.com/toyota/by-engine/1jz-2jz/2jz-ge-throttle-lock.html


If you've ever experienced the lag or hesitation of the Drive By Wire 2JZ-GE found in '98-'05 cars (USDM), we've got a way to help with that, a nifty little throttle lock (also know as a drive by wire delete). This little piece is also extremely helpfull if want to go stand alone ECU without DBW so you don't have to source a new throttle body. These throttle bodies are found in the IS300 (SXE10) and GS300 (JZS160/161).

The stock internal plastic throttle actuator only allows a small amount of mechanical throttle, without DBW or a throtle lock, you will not be able to achieve full throttle! Our molded plastic throttle lock insert is the easiest, lightest and most affordable way to accieve full throttle with just the throttle cable alone.

Made from injection molded glass reinforced Nylon, this little part fits on the input side of the stock throttle hardware so you can eliminate the gears run by the DBW motor and dramatically reduce the drag of pulling the DBW system. In most cases, the modification can be done with just and 8mm wrench or a screw driver in a matter of minutes and doesn't require recalibration of the TPS unless you adjust the idle screw.

If you're retaining the factory computer in a stock type arrangement still in the original car, you can leave the entire DBW system in place and the ECU will not throw a code or have trouble with cold idle or AC idle. We do recommend turning off traction control if you plan on getting agressive with the throttle, normal driving will not have an issue.

Installation requires the removal of the 4 screws that hold the throttle quadrant and input TPS, then just lift it off the throttle body and put our Throttle Lock on the internal wheel. The throttle lock is fully captured when installed, just bolt the TPS/Quadrant back in it's factory index/location and it's locked and loaded!

The design of our throttle lock insert does not require any recalibration of the TPS as the ECU retains most of the DBW control and idle control. If you're going with a stand alone ECU and no DBW, you'll be setting TPS values anyway for tuning.
 

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Interesting, but I'm not sure why I would need this, or if it would have any noticeable benefit for daily driving?
did you see the description under the pix? I know next to nothing about DBW or how it works, but I do know is that my car has it and I do not like it (i hate the lag). i am curious to see if anyone has installed this and if it really does feel like a traditional throttle cable (w/ out stand alone).
are you suggesting this will not do anything? if so, please explain.

Also, tag for updates.
 

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It is the same as doing the 45 degree mod to the existing throttle mechanism, basically takes up the slack between where the DBW motor works and the "limp home" in case of DBW failure works.

Yes you will have instant throttle response, however just as with the 45 degree mod you will be putting pressure against the DBW motor. Will it throw a code? Possibly not straight away. Will it cause premature wear on the DBW motor causing motor failure and a code, and possibly go into limp mode? Most who have tried the 45 mod seem to say yes from what i have read.

Where this would work great is if you plan to run a secondary "dummy" throttle body with the DBW motor to make the ECU think it is in control, but use this part in the primary throttle body to take up the slack and still look stock.
 

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It is the same as doing the 45 degree mod to the existing throttle mechanism, basically takes up the slack between where the DBW motor works and the "limp home" in case of DBW failure works.

Yes you will have instant throttle response, however just as with the 45 degree mod you will be putting pressure against the DBW motor. Will it throw a code? Possibly not straight away. Will it cause premature wear on the DBW motor causing motor failure and a code, and possibly go into limp mode? Most who have tried the 45 mod seem to say yes from what i have read.

Where this would work great is if you plan to run a secondary "dummy" throttle body with the DBW motor to make the ECU think it is in control, but use this part in the primary throttle body to take up the slack and still look stock.
I just came across this part as well. Throttle response in this car has always been a gripe with me, and this seemed a little too good to be true.
I have 2 questions about this, though: Would this retain cruise control? My gut is telling me yes, but I'm not quite sure. I use cruise a lot, as i drive my car long distances pretty often. Secondly, What is the 45° mod? I haven't heard of it, nor could I find any posts about it.
 

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I just came across this part as well. Throttle response in this car has always been a gripe with me, and this seemed a little too good to be true.
I have 2 questions about this, though: Would this retain cruise control? My gut is telling me yes, but I'm not quite sure. I use cruise a lot, as i drive my car long distances pretty often. Secondly, What is the 45° mod? I haven't heard of it, nor could I find any posts about it.
yes cruise control would be maintained but traction control would not (well it would in the sense that the DBW motor would be trying to back the throttle off against your foot holding it down.

http://my.is/forums/f114/bypassing-dbw-stock-parts-325195/
 

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Mr. Roo
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After reading through that thread about the 45-degree angle mod, which never seemed to be resolved, I'm still not sure if this little plastic lock thing would really help much.


Would it still result in the stiff pedal feeling and the system working against the pedal constantly? And all the issues that causes....



Where this would work great is if you plan to run a secondary "dummy" throttle body with the DBW motor to make the ECU think it is in control, but use this part in the primary throttle body to take up the slack and still look stock.
That's what I was thinking too, just have two separate systems. Mod the one on the intake, move the plug to the spare one. But , my understanding is that this will still cause it to go into limp mode, because the ECU can tell that the DBW motor is having no effect on the system
 

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I ended up emailing Xcessive to see what the difference this is compared to drift motions drive by wire delete, which is similar.

This is what they said “Our 2JZGE VVTi Throttle Lock is designed to work with the original ECU and throttle motor connected to retain the factory idle, cruise control and traction control functions, all while being a direct drive solution. Our design allows for the throttle motor to still have minimal control for those functions to work while still operating the throttle manually.”
 

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I ended up emailing Xcessive to see what the difference this is compared to drift motions drive by wire delete, which is similar.

This is what they said “Our 2JZGE VVTi Throttle Lock is designed to work with the original ECU and throttle motor connected to retain the factory idle, cruise control and traction control functions, all while being a direct drive solution. Our design allows for the throttle motor to still have minimal control for those functions to work while still operating the throttle manually.”
Yeah thats partially right, the cruise control would still work as you are taking your foot off the pedal and letting the DBW motor do its thing. However when you are loosing traction it would need to physically lift your foot off the pedal as your foot is now the "motor" directly opening and closing the throttle, the DBW motor has a clutch of sorts so would slip.

Tobias is right, you have a stiff pedal with this pushing or working against the DBW motor. I tried it and it wasnt that nice a feel so set it back to factory and then set up the throttle cable to have the least amount of slack in it and set the APS and TPS to be bang on to get the best out of them. The only time it gives me trouble and hesitates is when coasting into a roundabout and then nailing the gas to get into a spot.

I have briefly tried the separate throttle body, it worked ok and didnt give any codes if i had it plugged in direct. The issue i had was when trying to relocate it with longer wired, i think the wires i used had too much resistance and it threw a code straight away. I had planned to give it another go some time this summer, but at the moment i have too many other more important jobs . . . according to the wife :p
 

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I too was considering this device. How would it work with the traction control turned off? I don't have cruise control on my RS200Z. I dislike my cars throttle response and might just give this thing a try.

Sent from my LG-H915 using Tapatalk
 

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Mr. Roo
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I ended up emailing Xcessive to see what the difference this is compared to drift motions drive by wire delete, which is similar.

This is what they said “Our 2JZGE VVTi Throttle Lock is designed to work with the original ECU and throttle motor connected to retain the factory idle, cruise control and traction control functions, all while being a direct drive solution. Our design allows for the throttle motor to still have minimal control for those functions to work while still operating the throttle manually.”
Yeah, so it sounds like it does cause the stiff-pedal effect, depending on what the throttle motor is trying to do.


Tobias is right, you have a stiff pedal with this pushing or working against the DBW motor. I tried it and it wasnt that nice a feel so set it back to factory and then set up the throttle cable to have the least amount of slack in it and set the APS and TPS to be bang on to get the best out of them. The only time it gives me trouble and hesitates is when coasting into a roundabout and then nailing the gas to get into a spot.

I have briefly tried the separate throttle body, it worked ok and didnt give any codes if i had it plugged in direct. The issue i had was when trying to relocate it with longer wired, i think the wires i used had too much resistance and it threw a code straight away. I had planned to give it another go some time this summer, but at the moment i have too many other more important jobs . . . according to the wife :p
Yeah I have adjusted my cable for as little slack as possible, but I do have the annoying lag when trying to enter a roundabout too. I know exactly what you mean. Not sure how to adjust the sensors though.

But, if running a separate throttle body worked for you without any codes, perhaps that is the best solution.

I too was considering this device. How would it work with the traction control turned off? I don't have cruise control on my RS200Z. I dislike my cars throttle response and might just give this thing a try.
Pnut00 said it above you. They recommend to turn off the traction control, because it will fight against your foot when it gets triggered, which might cause a confusing feeling. Or, you can leave the T/C on, and whenever you "feel" a slip or see the dash slip light go off, back off the pedal. Basically, manual T/C control lol.
 

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I'm interested. Just been very busy with the rest of life at the moment, looking forward to your results!
Ha, yeah im in the same boat. I started playing around with setting up the spare throttle body a few years ago but ran out of time. Since then its kids, house extensions and renovations, work . . . good thing the tezza is so patient, never complains from the lack of attention. :grin:

Looking forward to seeing what you think when you get it, i would rather use one of these than have to set up the throttle cables after cocking it over to compensate. Also there is a limitation with it in that you can only fit 2 of the 4 screws on the sensor, it still works ok but i would much rather use one of these and have it looking stock.
 

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Just installed this. Using greddy emanage ultimate. Idles fine at first start then driving around afr bog super low 10 or lower and coming to a stop the car dies from too much fuel. Car ran fine before the install. After I give it gas at idle and then take off it sits around 10afr for 10 seconds then hunts 20 afr to 11 over and over. Trying to floor the car produces a very uneven power curve.
 

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Finally, chiming in. Installed this 2 days ago. No issues at idle & throttle is indeed more responsive. Initially was going to remove the throttle body from intake manifold for easier install. But I opted to install with it still assembled so it took longer as i did not want to remove all the parts(bolts/hoses) It seems like this lock is more appreciated near upper rpm/redline. I'll post an update if any issues.
 
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