Lexus IS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey, what's up guys I have a few questions that I would appreciate if anyone on here can help me out with. I have a few questions but don't want to bump posts from 3 years ago.
So I decided to go the 1jz route considering the cost of a proper Nat build.

To start off I have a 05 5sp IS300
I would want to run on stock is300 harness and 1jz ecu without a standalone or piggyback for a little while.
I have a spare 01 harness (I've been informed with the 01 harness most plugs will connect, I just might need to extend the harness)

This is the general Understanding I have so far


The jzx100 has the front sump for perfect fitment in our chasis.
I need an 01 harness to connect to the jzx100 ecu.
Since I'll stay stock ecu for a while until I can afford a standalone, I'll have to deal with the dbw.
Ive seen multiple people on forums and even on a youtube video use the drift motion delete to make it "drive by wire" instead of changing out the entire throttle body.
Swap over is300 immobilizer chip.


So a few questions I have

-JZX100 vs JZX110 ? I know both are front sump and have dbw, but I've seen more people go with 110. The reason I'm asking is b/c there is a local importer that only has jzx100's in stock.
Would I have a lot more wiring issues with the jzx100?


-Since I'll try making this work without any engine management, I know I'll have issues with the DBW therefore I can either get a throttle body of a JZX90 or I've heard people use a dbw delete to make it "driven by wire" by drift motion for 20$. https://www.driftmotion.com/2JZ-GTE-VVTi-ETCSi-Drive-By-Wire-Delete-p/dm3403.htm
Have any of you on here used this?

When it comes to wiring, I already have a spare 01 harness. What main issues do people run into when wiring up? Emissions for me is not needed nor do I need trac control and cruise control. I just want the car running.
Will the car run like crap without any sort of engine management just on stock ecu with is300 body harness?

The biggest question is can this be done for under 2500?
-1jzgte jzx100 with auto trans/ harness /ecu 1200
-fmic already have one for free 0
-basic maintenance water pump/timing 200-300
-possible harness extension, connectors 400-500
-Downpipe/exhaust 300-400
-Oil/coolant 100
-unexpected issues 200-400
-Miscellaneous 100-300


I'm a broke college student that wants to hold off getting a standalone and r154 until I finish school for those asking why I'm going that route, and yes I have a daily minivan :smile2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
@blkaltezza Thank you so much for your time into this post, I've been doing research for days and this is exactly the answer I've been looking for!!
Do you by any chance have a thread on your whole process?
Also, is there any specific dealer you used for the JZS171 or jzx110 that you would recommend? Most places only offer 100's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,594 Posts
As for your budget, doing it the proper way is going to cost alot more than $2,500. The electrical part will make or break this swap. I know the Dezod AEM is expensive ($1,800), but it will save you alot of headache down the line. You're planning to go standalone anyway so I would just save up for it. Get the motor and do all the maintenance on the side, and when you finally have enough for the AEM you can drop it in with no issues.
:approve:

Do it right the first time and save yourself some money and headaches in the long run. I was waiting for someone to chime in so as to not sound like an a-hole. A lot of times people just rush into stuff like this on a whim because jayzee fever y0. Good luck man!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
That is some good info on the swap @blkaltezza. So all the front sump 1jz's are either the JZS171 or jzx110's if I read that correctly. I have been debating on the 1jz or the 2jzgte swap since I purchased my 01. Seems the 1jz route would be the more simplified route. I am looking to keep my luxuries as well; ac, power steering, and cruise. Which ecu from those would be best to keep those working without having to run dual ecus?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
765 Posts
All three are front sump, but the JZX100 lower pan won't clear the IS300 crossmember. The JZX110 and JZS171 oil pan is flat on one area like the IS300 oil pan while the JZX100 isn't. Not my picture but this is basically what I'm talking about. The left is how the JZX100 pan will look like and the right is how the JZS171, JZX110 and stock IS300 pan will look like. Most guys who do the JZX100 swap just swap over their oil pan from the IS300. It bolts right on with no modifications.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
I'm having difficulty finding wire pin outs for some reason. Read a few threads on the 1jz swap but none of them really include wiring info. I have the 01 IS300 ecu pinout but unable to find the body junction info at the moment. The search continues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Hi,

I have completed my swap..

Issues I ran into relating to the engine swap it self: None, like previous replies have stated.. the JZS171 drops right in.. I replaced my engine mounts because I have no clue the condition of the ones that came with the engine.. as well as the usual seals, belts and valve cover gaskets, also inspect condition of donor engine hoses clamps etc before dropping the engine in..

Things that I wish I id while the engine was out: replace all hoses and upgraded the fuel lines etc etc but since you are on a budget like I was.. if those things are still good then whatever..

Some minor things that I have encountered but did not see on the threads:
- the fuel feed banjo looking thing that attaches next to the engine block, the motor I got had the banjo piece attached but I took it off and attempted to attach the stock is300 feed line, but it is 1. too short and 2. its a different bend so it doesnt fit as it should between the two metal pieces designed to hold it steady.. so I got a longer hose and attached the 1jz banjo piece to it and it fit nicely.

- fuel return is a must, you can leave the stock fuel dampener and regulator if you are thinking on leaving the system stock, and just follow some of the fuel return threads here for the fuel pump modifications..

- the abs can be left where it is but its a tight fit with the stock cooling pipes for the turbo, I kinda nudged the whole thing more towards the body of the car but its still tight in there, doesnt seem to be rubbing though..

Now.. the differences with the 1jz for our swap as what blkaltezza said: jzx100 is more common but more of a headache wiring wise ( for guys like me who just want a stock application).
jzx110 is the next best thing, drops right in but now you have to worry about the immobilizer etc, other than that its not hard to repin what needs to be repined..
and finally the jzs171, which is what I went for due to the fact that my car is a 2001 and I was hoping to get the tiptronic working out of it because I planned on keeping it auto.. ( which I finally got working :) ); the jzs171 comes with the A340E/LS transmission which supports tiptronic since the Toyota Crown has it.. the Jzx110 has the A341E transmission as does the jzx100 (if you buy it with the auto and plan on keeping it)
another thing you must know between the JZX110 and JZS171 is that once wiring is done, with the JZX110 your gauges will work properly (except the top gauge showing fuel flow) but with the JZS171 I have noticed that the temp gauge does not work.. I had to get an aftermarket coolant temp gauge.

the hardest thing about the swap is finding the diagrams (for me).. the jzx100 has all kinds of diagrams all over the net, and the jzx110 has a few good ones now that it is becoming a more common engine, but the jzs171 doesnt have a lot of info on it and most of what I found is in Japanese..
I have yet to figure out the alarm system with my jzs171, the radiator fans do not turn on at all (but I bridged the connector and they are on all the time) and THE A/C SYSTEM!! I believe the jzs171 ecu does not have a pin labelled "FAN" and based on the is300 diagrams "FAN" controls the radiator fans and "A/C Diode" which I believe is the reason my A/C doesnt engage when I press the A/C button.. it's very frustrating but I am slowly learning the wiring diagrams and reading more info online to figure everything out.. but as for the swap itself.. everything is good, loving the 1jz so much..

I basically repeated what most people said but whatever.. to answer your question.. I spent about $3600 on my swap and that includes the engine trans ecu harness & shipping which I got for $1400.


and yes my Tiptronic system works!! cruise control works as well but who uses that? and traction control does not.. again who needs that?? lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
lexus is200 1jzgte jzx100 swap

Hi all

i swap my motor for the 1jzgte vvti R154 5 speed but it was a jzx100 motor and cause it was a is200 not a 300
i rip out the engine harness and made a new one with the one that came with the motor and its running a standalone parallel
with the oem ecu but it works nicely but the one thing i need the fuel gauge doesn't work, cause the oem ecu receives the pulses from the
injector and the ecu works out between the tank level and the pulses to give a correct level and it cant do that.

I want to change to a jzx171 ecu to fix this issue cause with a standalone aem ecu box.
cause of the oringnal ecu not one the 1j i get heating problems but it also needs a oil cooler upgrade.

is the fuel gauge fix able with the jzx171 ecu
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
So I have been able to gather up alot info about the wiring of this swap and read several threads regarding it but all of them seem to not have much info or the ones that do just seem to end abruptly. Most of the information is so scattered around. I came from hondas just like most everyone started out with cause they are simple, cheap, and easy to work on without all the computers controlling different pieces of the car.
I plan on starting out with the 1jz in basically stock form mated to the stock IS300 trans. I want to keep everything functioning as normal so I know I will need to run both ECU's to make this happen. I'm trying to see how cheaply I can accomplish this swap itself, not including maintenance parts themselves, but doing the actually motor swap and getting it running and functioning properly like OEM. I know I can purchase a blank ecu jumper but the Boomslang one is $399. Now that leads me to this. What other Lexus cars here in the states use the same ecu plugs with harnesses that can be found in junkyards I like wiring and doing alot of DIY stuff. I would assume the 98-00 or 01 GS chasis would use the same or similar plugs. So I was thinking that I could go to the junkyard and get the pigtails and ecu to get the connector part out of and build my own blank jumper. Where would I be able to find the female pins to use to pin the connector for the ECU side as I'm sure enough pins and proper crimp tool can be purchased for less then $400.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
So I have been able to gather up alot info about the wiring of this swap and read several threads regarding it but all of them seem to not have much info or the ones that do just seem to end abruptly. Most of the information is so scattered around. I came from hondas just like most everyone started out with cause they are simple, cheap, and easy to work on without all the computers controlling different pieces of the car.
I plan on starting out with the 1jz in basically stock form mated to the stock IS300 trans. I want to keep everything functioning as normal so I know I will need to run both ECU's to make this happen. I'm trying to see how cheaply I can accomplish this swap itself, not including maintenance parts themselves, but doing the actually motor swap and getting it running and functioning properly like OEM. I know I can purchase a blank ecu jumper but the Boomslang one is $399. Now that leads me to this. What other Lexus cars here in the states use the same ecu plugs with harnesses that can be found in junkyards I like wiring and doing alot of DIY stuff. I would assume the 98-00 or 01 GS chasis would use the same or similar plugs. So I was thinking that I could go to the junkyard and get the pigtails and ecu to get the connector part out of and build my own blank jumper. Where would I be able to find the female pins to use to pin the connector for the ECU side as I'm sure enough pins and proper crimp tool can be purchased for less then $400.
Not sure on what other Lexus models use the ecu plugs but I would really appreciate a detailed tutorial on this if you go down this road. I am on the fence about whether or not to use a Boomslang harness or just splice directly into the factory harness for my JZX100 swap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
I do plan on going this route but as of right now I don't have a time table on it. I need to check the inventory on what cars are available at my local pullapart. I like this idea cause if for some reason I need to go back to original it would just be unplug and not have to do any rewiring. I haven't even purchased my 1j yet cause I was in the process of collecting parts to swap to manual with the ar5 transmission.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
6/16/2017
Just wanted to share what info i've gathered along the way while doing my swap. My car is an 02 with a manual transmission. My engine is a jzx110 or newer with the notched pan. Do maintenance while the engine is out. Do not toss out the 1jz harness until you are sure everything on your 2jz harness isn't broken and connects without slipping off. Swap over broken clips as needed and use wires to extend those on your 2jz. The reason being is that some are shielded and they are free. Also remove and swap over wire flex conduit as needed which is also free. Use non adhesive vinyl tape if you can get it.

6/30/2017
Still dont have an exhaust, ic piping, ems or maf on the car but decided to try and start it anyway. Started first crank so i guess the rumors are true.


REPLACED:
Rear main seal (same as 2jz)
Cam seals (1jz specific)
Front main seal (same as 2jz)
Tensioner arm (1jz specific)
Tensioner idler pulley. (tensioner pulley is the same but the idler arm is not, so swap pulley or order whole assembly)
Timing belt (1jz specific)
Coils (same as 2jz)
Coil connectors (same as 2jz) THESE WILL PROBABLY BREAK
Plug wires (same as 2jz)
Spark plugs use 6 or 7 heat range (same as 2jz)
Ct turbo drain gasket
Oil filter housing o-ring (same as 2jz)
AC o-rings (random pack from chinabay)
VVTI solenoid (same as 2jz)
VVTI solenoid filter (same as 2jz)

WIRING: Very easy and somehow still a pain in the ass.

Optionally you can remove all hard plastic sheathing.

Remove hard plastic wiring cover that goes over engine.
Cut plastic off of the part that sends the wires down between the manifold.(Allows it to be routed easier)

Extend the coolant temp sensor (2 wires). On my 1jz its on the passenger side and not eh driver side. Not sure if this applies to all 1jz engines.

Extend a shielded single wire sensor under the intake manifold, not sure what sensor that is.
Flip solenoid under intake manifold instead of cutting wire to it.

Route wires under throttle body. Everything should be tight but fit with a little wiggle room.

Relocate small grey box to cruise cable mount.

Relocate throttle body wires no. No need to cut anything

One solenoid will need to be moved from the 2jz to 1jz. My 1jz didn't have it and not sure if it would trip a check engine light.

Not sure if i have to extend the MAF wires yet as im planning on using the stock airbox.

All connectors on the 2jz harness will have a place if you move over the one solenoid which i haven't attached to any hoses.

The bypass valve wont be connected to anything and will need to be controlled.

ENGINE MOUNTS:

(You should NOT be able to reach the rear trans bolts from the top if mounted correctly.)

Remove oil filter housing from both engines.

Remove 1jz turbo elbow.

Remove the turbo drain/feed line from the 1jz to get to the remaining mount bolt.

Remove engine mounts from the 1jz using a flex extension no need to remove the turbo.

Remove engine mounts and brackets from the 2jz.

Swap 2jz mounts over to 1jz. If you dont it has been noted the engine will sit too far forward.

FUEL LINES:

MAKE SURE YOU CAN GET THE SOFT LINE OFF OF THE TUBE FIRST TO FOLLOW A, IF NOT PROCEED TO B. B is much better IMO
FEED Line (Not sure if every 1JZ swap needs the feed line)
AAAAAAAAAAAAA

M14 x 1.5 inverted flare to -6an adapter (for hardline adaptation).

M12 Banjo to -6an for a honda (get the thicker one). Russell 640913

Used 2 -6an hose ends Russell vapor lock. ( 1 straight , 1 45 degree).

Ordered 3 feet to connect the hose ends only needed a little under 2.

BBBBBBBBBBBB (If you failed to get it off or it stripped. )

Cut hardline right behind fitting using the correct pipe cutter

Use 5/16 (8mm) tube adapter to -6 fitting AT165056ERL (compression type good for 250 psi no need to flare, will be difficult to get on. Make sure you file edges that will be slightly mushroomed after cutting.)

M12 Banjo to -6an for a honda (get the thicker one). Russell 640913


RETURN Line
Used -6 return line (actual line size is a little smaller so i used 2 clamps)

Used 2 straight -6 pushlock fittings (Pushlock sucks to assemble so use Russell Vapor Lock instead)

Used 90 degree -6 bulkhead fitting and 2 plastic washers

Used sealant on both sides of bulkhead fitting.

Ran part of line for drain back to tank

Did NOT modify pump carrier any further.


DONT USE BS HOSE. MAKE SURE IT IS RATED TO 150PSI, FUEL SAFE, REINFORCED AND SHIELDED.

THROTTLE CABLE

The stock one is too short. Used a throttle cable from a 93 Camry 4 cylinder which is a bit too long but works fine and is half the price of a Supra tt cable. If i do any upgrades in the far future ill get the PHR throttle cable.



Will be edited more as time goes on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
So I'm going to make an attempt here to revive this post - I am in the process of my swap right now - this exact post below may show up on other threads as i search for the answers, and hopefully help others on their quest.

04 is300 (5ps auto)-> putting in a 1jzgte -single turbo (stock) - keeping w55 tranny
Background:
Engine (2JZGE) died on me at 140K miles - screw it lets throw a 1JZGTE single turbo in the biatch and have some fun instead of being boring and putting a 2JZGE back in her.
- running as low on budget as possible (will upgrade various parts in very near future but just need the car running asap) - daily driver - extremely short time frame - started 11/7 needs to be completed no later than 11/30
- myself and a friend working out of his shop - working nights mainly as we have other jobs - all necessary tools (engine lift, jack, impact tools) but **no fab capabilities at all besides our 4.5" grinder**

I have pics of progress but my phone is being weird and I'm having trouble finding most of them - will post ASAP.
Bought:
1JZGTE VVTi and transmission to be safe - $1350 - JDM Engine world - shipping $231 - supposedly <50k miles (it actually does look like it tbh)
-i believe this is a JZX110 but idk for certain - its front sump, tranny lines up with w55 perfectly -
stock radiator >$60 eBay

Progress: keep in mind all these hours include other mundane tasks like moving heavy parts around the shop cleaning, labeling parts, organizing stuff, troubleshooting issues, etc
1.decided to use w55 instead of the 1j tranny 5 speed > 4 all day SO we had to separate the engine and tranny - 4 hours w/3ppl
2. pulled hangers and did exhaust removal prep 1 hr w/3 ppl
3. had to grind off the exhaust @ the downpipe- was so rusted to the cat section it was beyond use - 2.5 hours w/2 ppl
4. 2JZGE and tranny out of the car - 1.5 hours w/2 ppl
5. separated above and attached w55 to 1jzgte (perfect fit), parts list made (hoses mainly) for drop which we are doing tomorrow (11/17)- 3hrs w/2 ppl

Questions:
1.how do i tell if it is a jzx110 or a JZS171 - cant seem to find anywhere that has a clear answer on this
- need to know for this whole ECU thing
2. ECU's - we dont know jack about how this all works
- standalones (if i go that route)... where can i get one for around $400-600 that will work well and is able to be tuned by a shop
2.there are two hoses coming from the power steering pump - the one above looks to be a normal power steerling fluid hose, but the one below is more like an assembly and when we pulled it off oil came out, not power steering fluid - yes we are positive this is the power steering pump - just looking for general guidance on what to do with these

Recommendations or experiences with intercooler kits for this? my situation below:
- intercooler kit kit still not purchased - was going to buy the cxracing 2jzgte single front mount turbo intercooler kit, but cxracing is out of the intercooler for 6-8 weeks... but can send me the piping kit ASAP
1. think my best bet is to buy the Mishimotor universal zline intercooler - looks like it would fit perf under the front bumper (dims: 28x2.5x7.5; 2.5" in/outs) - get the cx racing piping and minor adjustment and i should be good = $637 all included w/2 day shipping
- cxracig says 3" piping but their in/out is also 2.5" so i don't see why that would be an issue to get the piping sizes matched up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
I just purchased my 1jz gte this past weekend. I’m currently lookin for the intercooler, oil cooler, etc. now my question is, i have a jzx110 ecu with no immobilizer. I wanna use my a650e trans, now is it possible to run it with the jzx110 only, or do i have to use a dual ecu setup to keep everything functioning like oem? I have an 01, and plan to use the same harness since i read it’s practically identical to the jzx110 harness.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top