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Nice thing about a ~3 litre engine, is it can't/won't make abusive instant torque, so it doesn't shock the trans and druveline like a big (blown) V8.

Grannas has Craig @ Liberty's Gears of Michigan do a cryogenic treatment and RIM polish on T56 guts to improve their strength and fatigue resistance.

I used to do some work with Craig, he's great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Nice thing about a ~3 litre engine, is it can't/won't make abusive instant torque, so it doesn't shock the trans and druveline like a big (blown) V8.

Grannas has Craig @ Liberty's Gears of Michigan do a cryogenic treatment and RIM polish on T56 guts to improve their strength and fatigue resistance.

I used to do some work with Craig, he's great.
No doubt the end product is great. I would love to get this done. For now im looking at something more cost effective. The feedback thatbi have recieved is to add a trans fluid pump and spray directly onto the head set gear. Most of the failures have been from lack of lubrication on the head set gear and front gear on the counter shaft. I guess its the same idea of launching, and all the fluid goes to the rear. If you have a pump there , you wouldnt see the starvation happen and extend the life of the tremec t56 magnum.

I will be going this route untill i can save enough for that special sauce (cryo and rem, brass pads etc..) but im not going faceplated as this will be mostly a street car.
 

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Another Instagram dude, @mileskurth just had to do that on his 1000 horsepower, stock Magnum car. Who really knows how long a T56 + pump or TR6060 could last on a JZ. I will totally do one once I'm fed up with my AR5, but I feel that won't be for a while. I kind of wish Grannas looked into the Tremec T5 5 speed, just because I feel like the IS300 should be a 5 speed car. Anyways, look into that pump before you start hunting for 8's.
 

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I kind of wish Grannas looked into the Tremec T5
Those are weak, unless you spend a bunch of money on fancy guts... But, they're lightweight and really shift great with their low-inertia gearing.

That said, with a quicktime bellhousing - it wouldn't be tough to install a T5, TKO or TKX 5 speed into our cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
The T56 magnum and tremec TR6060 share guts. The 6060 has a pump built in. I think its incorporated into the integrated midplate/bellhousing, but perhaps it could be put into the t56 magnum.
Another Instagram dude, @mileskurth just had to do that on his 1000 horsepower, stock Magnum car. Who really knows how long a T56 + pump or TR6060 could last on a JZ. I will totally do one once I'm fed up with my AR5, but I feel that won't be for a while. I kind of wish Grannas looked into the Tremec T5 5 speed, just because I feel like the IS300 should be a 5 speed car. Anyways, look into that pump before you start hunting for 8's.
This is exactly who i spoke to, ordered his custom bracket to support the cause. Slow_2j referred me to him for the bracket.
 

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This is exactly who i spoke to, ordered his custom bracket to support the cause. Slow_2j referred me to him for the bracket.
These days a lot of people like to "gatekeep" and it can be fun to troll here and there, but Miles is a solid dude. No BS from him or any of the PowerDynamix guys (in my experience). I like to offer as much help as I can as well.

Those are weak, unless you spend a bunch of money on fancy guts... But, they're lightweight and really shift great with their low-inertia gearing.

That said, with a quicktime bellhousing - it wouldn't be tough to install a T5, TKO or TKX 5 speed into our cars.
;(
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
I hear what you are saying, coming from the honda world, these toyota/lexus guys seem to be alot better in regards to community help and like to see people overall succeed, least i can say is everyone i have dealt with here and online in regards to the build has been awesome and i appreciate all of you 😁
 

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For what it’s worth, the GR900 uses stock gears. Just rem polishing and cryo treatment. Better forks and blockers rings, and a oil sprayer. Vipers run 1000whp through their tr6060 (practically the same as the t56 mag as people mentioned) which is around 900 ft lbs wtq.

Tick makes a front cover oil pump for the t56 mag (edit edit: the bowler one works with 2.6 only not 2.9 without machining, I don’t know about Tick’s but grannas uses Tick’s for the oiling) . Definitely, definitely use oil sprayer regardless of what transmission you use. The front bearing will get starved with heavy launches. The synchros tend to go when trying to shift quickly in these. They are very fine tooth’s compared to the T56 proper. A good flat shift tune and a gorilla strength yank might bypass that but keep that in mind. Reliability will depend on what you find acceptable.
 

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A good flat shift tune
OP should definitely talk to Grannas about one of his strain shifters. Basically it turns your shift lever into a bi-directional force sensor that is sensitive to the driver pushing or pulling on the lever. It outputs a 0-5V signal to the ECU.

2.5V output means no force on the gear lever
Voltage going down from 2.5V, towards 0V represents increasing force in the forward direction (towards 1st, 3rd or 5th gear)
Increasing voltage, headed upwards from 2.5V towards 5V represents increasing force in the backwards direction (towards 2nd, 4th, 6th)

You can then set voltage thresholds in your ECU that represent a sufficient yank on the gear lever to induce a momentary ignition cut that will unload the shift hub - allowing the hub to slide easily from one gear to the next.

Doesn't allow for clutchless shifting (unless trans is a pro-shifted/face-plated dogbox), but certainly makes flatshifting easier and less abusive to the trans.
 

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The grannas one is $1400… the fuel tech one is $299. It’s a strain gauge not black magic. Even if the fuel tech one doesn’t fit the bolt spacing of the T56, a adapter is easy and way less than the grannas one still…
I don't know what output fueltech shift lever puts out so I can't tell if you are comparing apples to apples. Strain gages put out a signal in millivolts, so most ECUs are not equipped with the hardware required to resolve such a tiny signal - thus an amplifier is often required to translate that signal into something the ECU can read.

Not trying to have an argument or suggest the Grannas product is the only way to skin the cat; but his unit does put out a 0-5V signal that any ECU can use, so long as it has the software to calibrate flatshift parameters.
 

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It’s bare outputs so needs a amplifier. I personally would just glue a strain gauge on from digikey and add supporting circuits and call it a day since I’m so cheap lol. And yeah many ways to go about this depending on budget and knowledge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Currently ran into a transmission guy who upgrades t56 magnums . 500$ for parts and 700$ for labor for bronze pads and carbon synchros... so i did take a look at attempting this myself, however i dont feel confident without a mentor, i havent dove into transmissions as much as id like to.

What do u think on his pricing?

Any other mods recomended while were in there ? I know REM and CRYO is recommended but i dont plan on faceplating as this will see the street most of its life, with track days when i can .

I will look into the strain guage as i do have experience with controls and converting signals. Usually milliamp to 0-10v with a 500ohm resistor or 0-5v with a 250ohm resistor but ill see whats out there.
 

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Price seems okay. Tick charges $2000 for essentially the same service for reference. Check out Tick’s level 5 T56 magnum to see what they upgrade in there. It’s basically all the stuff recommended so far if you’re too lazy to check.
 
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