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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Ok , manual tunnel is completed along with wiring harness cleaned up. Ill probably use some seam sealer to go around the the manual tunnel box to keep gasses put of the bay once engine and transmission is in for final placement.


Question, does anyone know where i can get the zip ties that mount to the body to hold the harness to the car? There is like an oval shape for a ... connector of some kind and i don't really know what to call it .....



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Dunno where to send you, other than the dealer, for those snap-in ziptie mounting bases.

However, I always keep a big pack of these in the toolbox:


While they're generally intended to be held in place with a pop rivet, I often scuff/clean the paint and epoxy them down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I like your idea but I am going to try to keep it simple. I found some zip ties on a toyota site somewhere after looking for an hour or so i found a part number that seems promising:

Toyota Part # 82711-12200
Hopefully this will work.


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Question, does anyone know where i can get the zip ties that mount to the body to hold the harness to the car? There is like an oval shape for a ... connector of some kind and i don't really know what to call it .....
Came across these just now:

 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Still waiting on machine work however i have recieved a quote for a precision 8385 streetfighter with a 1.0 housing and vband. I am looking into intercoolers and, has anyone used the air to water style coolers? The size seems to catch my eye as it saves room and has more capacity for rejecting heat. Otherwise im stuck looking for something around a 5" core and usually have to piece it together with end tanks.

I was originally looking at the 7685 however i would be maxxing that turbo out with no room to expand. The 8685 is a great turbo however if i want to turn the boost down on the street. Shes a lazy whore and takes some time to spool. The 8385 is middle lane as i can full throttle 2stage off the line with no nitrous and stay in it to hit my goals of low 9 sec / 8sec quarter mile times.

Looking to see if anyone had any pics of an air to water intercooler setup/placement and see if its worth going for.
 

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Air/water coolers are amazing for drag, where you can achieve less-than-ambient charge temperature but they add complexity with their required tank and pump.

In a street car, they add further complexity on account of the necessary front mounted water/air radiator. Plus, you will still ultimately be cooling charge air using ambient air - but adding an extra step as compared to a simple air/air cooler.

The reason OEMS are using water/air coolers ( almost exclusively) on supercharged arrangements is for space... anyone that's ever seen the air/air cooler setup on a blown Ford Supercoupe would totally understand how awkward that can be.

If you intend to street the car, I'd go air/air; the Garrett cores are the best.
 

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Air to water or air to air will work just fine. Heat exchangers work on street cars. They work on drag cars. They are the best way to cool charge air IMO. The only downside is packaging. But if you have enough room to stuff a large air to air up front, you can certainly put a large air to water up front and plumb it to a nice water tank in the trunk and fill it with ice.

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This is the MBH heat exchanger is no longer available for my old CLS55 amg. It’s much larger than the stock heat exchanger (that little guy hanging below) it worked SO much better at cooling the air charge. It was plumbed back to a killer chiller tank in the trunk. I could beat on the car on the freeway back to back and it would never get hot. With the factory system, 4-5 pulls is all you got and then the supercharger would not engage anymore (it was a clutched pulley) because of the heat.

I say if you can run air to water, do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Grannas exhaust manifold 6 weeks out

Precision 8385 streetfighter (sportsman cover) 7 weeks out

Ign1a quick release kit from induction performance shipped

Tweaked harness is coming end of april

All ordered still waiting on machine shop. Shouldnt be much longer as i have been in line since august...

Head work ran into an issue in one of the intake ports, the divider had an air bubble in it from the casting , ground it all out, going to have micro tig welded and refinish that port.

Just checking in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Can anyone post a pic of a clean catch can setup maybe utilizing the battery location? Im curious if they make one like sheepey that is similar in look and design. Thanks!
 

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Not here to say mine is the nicest, cleanest arrangement....nor is it 100% complete...but check out post #47 and #49 in this thread to see how I attacked it. Might give you an idea:


I discussed shopping for and choosing the catch can here:

 

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Oh, you fancy!

I drooled over that setup but I think they only make it for GTE heads...

I noticed the coil connectors they included are the Metri-Pack GT150.2 units. If you're having some other schmuck do your wiring - that'll be fine. But if you're doing it yourself, the Aptiv GT150.3 connectors are a lot easier to work with.,,

The Aptivs are the more traditional "push to seat" design, where you crimp terminals onto the conductors - and then stuff them into the connector. The MetriPack are "pull to seat", so you push the wires through the connector, then strip/crimp terminals, and then pull the terminals back into the connector to seat them. It's a hassle - especially if you want to heat-shrink your harness. The MetriPacks are also a real pain to disassemble in the future.

Here are the Aptivs if you choose to go that way:

Delphi/Aptiv GT150.3 connectors (Ballenger Motorsports part# CONN-76206)

Note that this is a standard 5-way Aptiv GT150.3 that Ballenger dremels a little to make it compatible with the IGN1A coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Only the quick release is compatible with the GE head per the website so thats why i ordered that one. We will find out haha , tha ks for the info i think tweaked may have the harness plug and play but i will also need to inspect that upon arrival.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
This is great, i love vibrant stuff. Actually planning on 4" straighy pipe with a resonator from them.

Had a 3"stainless setup with muffler and resonator on my 700hp integra and it sounded great.

I will look for that grannas video you quoted and do the same. However i do want to find a catch can i can fill in the battery location flush with. Ill be looking around. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Nice. I think ill go rear top mounted fittings versus the gte. The baffles are different amd rhe ge seems easier !

Im removing abs, never had it on a car that i modded for high hp. I will also be using the sensors for traction control
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