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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my first toyota, moving from hondas.

I have some questions i bought an aem infinity 7106 and wanted to know the best way to retain AC.

I read about keeping both ecus, and some were able to use just the infinity ecu but there are no writeups / how to's that i found that are step by step.

Was hoping for some direction.

I drove 800 miles to grab a 2003 is300 with a blown tranny and body is clean.

Converting to manual and going 7675 or 8285 on e85.

Currently waiting on grannas t56 mag -f swap kit . Dropped some dough, it hurt a little but looking forward to the final result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’m on dual ecu (stock + Infinity). I’ve not seen a real wire guide per se, but there’s enough info out there on various builds you can search and figure most of it out. If you go duals, you pretty much give the Infinity control of spark and fuel, and share the sensors (crank, cam, tps, etc) with the stock and infinity. The problem with the IS is that it’s DBW and most people leave throttle control on stock ecu, and it doesn’t idle real great with two ecus trying to control various aspects of the engine. This way with DBW on Infinity, you can set the Infinity to bump idle rpm when the AC/electric cooling fans come on to compensate for the extra draw. I would give all control to the Infinity (dbw, vvti, spark, fuel) and just let the stock ecu be present for the AC outside temp display, and it also does the Coolant temp gauge.

You can remove the stock ecu but you’ll have to wire up the AC high and low pressure switch thru the Infinity, and you have to wire the “AC” button up directly to the compressor clutch. Now I haven’t done that, but there’s a recent thread here that details it pretty good. I think the only thing you’ll really “lose” is the instampg and the coolant gauge when you remove the stock ecu.

If you hadn’t bought the Infinity, I’d recommend the drop in PnP Link-Panic ecu. But I can answer just about any question you’d have on wiring the Infinity to the IS. Main thing is to just break it up so you don’t get overwhelmed. You have to alter just about everything on this car to do it right.
Awesome info,

I appreciate all of this and will fall in line with your recommendation. I do intend on keeping AC as i am in a warmer climate that sees 110*F sometimes during the summer.

The only reason i bought the infinity is because a buddy dropped his build and gave me the discounted price on his brand new infinity ecu.

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Cp pistons 10.0:1 hd and manly turbo tuff tribeam rods finally came in. Im doing some research on the head build and came across more questions. Mind you i came from the honda scene so buckets and shims are new to me.

My head will be fully gone through and looking at supertech valvetrain standard valve size and
Kelford 272 cams. My question is , with brand new cams what can i expect, will i need shims? Are there shimless buckets made?

Also, what can i expect in regards to degreeing the cams / intake specifically. Is there a "sweet spot" with these cams like 120 degrees from centerline (someone was telling me and i didnt quite understand what they meant) .

Thanks for your support. Going to cash in on this AMC stock rise and get the rest of the bottom end finished, including billet mains and 625+ hardware all around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes, you’ll need the adjustability of shims to set lash properly. You’d need to look at your Kelford’s cam card to see what the tolerance is…my GSC were 0.008 intake and 0.012 exhaust (+/-0.001”). The stock are shim on top buckets, but Supertech also makes a shim under bucket style.




Yep, sure is. So you order the shimless bucket according to the size you need to set the lash for all 24. Or the machine shop building the head can spec the same size shimless bucket you need for all 24, and then grind the valve stems to set the height and obtain proper lash.




I don’t recall if you’re engine is VVTi? I don’t think you can degree a VVTi intake cam, only the exhaust. There’s degree wheel kits made so you can dial in the exhaust cam, though. It’s different for every motor/build so you just have to do the math/work for your particular engine.
Yes it is vvti good info
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I highly recommend the shimless buckets, with the 625 arp studs. Who ever does the machine work and assembly of the head, make sure they know what they are doing or you could ended up causing damage and having to rebuild the head again.( ie improper lash, cam install, head studs, etc...)

I am going through a partial rebuild on my head which is a VVTI GE head because of a poor leakdown test and some damage on the cam. I chose this time around to do Kelford cams 272/278 9.95mm lift to replace the old GSC s2's, ferrera behive springs and retainers to replace the BC's. Replace the old GSC exhaust valves with the same ones. ( intake side was still good no issues) Shimless buckets this time, ARP 625 studs to the replace the L19's along with a partial sleeve ( because my builder use to use full sleeves on his drag supra and he said he wanted to do it) just for good measure. Also change fuel pumps from the twin 450's to the twin 500 (Hellcat pumps) along with new relays and wiring etc...

Here he had to massage the journals until they freed up before final assembly. As stated he did inserts along with the new head studs. Cut the valves so he measure the lash with the shimless buckets.


View attachment 138338 View attachment 138339 View attachment 138340 View attachment 138341 View attachment 138342

Awesome info , and pictures are even better. I appreciate your feedback . I am planning on the 625 headstuds as well, as i already bought the 625 main studs. Im going to look into those hellcat fuel pumps, i was planning on duals in the tank and a weldon in line.to kick on when in boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Wanted to provide an update now that the weather has cooled off and isnt over 100 everyday. Engine is at machine shop and head is in line to get ported and flow matched. I have decided to go with protunerz FFIM as i got response that this will fit in IS chassis.

I have also been keeping my eye on the new precision 8080 turbo. If it mends the world of the 7685 and 8385 i may pull the trigger on a purchase.

I have started pulling the wire harness back to relocate ecu into the cabin. I will be utilizing figs extension harness as its cleaner than what i could probably do in the garage.

Saving $$ for that ford 8.8 rear end and lev 5 axles from grannas in a 4.10 to match the t56 magnum-F (tremec) .

I have acquired all the components for the head except intake valves are 8 weeks out on delivery.

Kelford 202 cams for vvti (272)
Super tech full valve train and 91lb dual springs.

Full send at this point. Can't wait to get this thing in and fired up. Will keep you updated
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
UPDATE**

FORD 8.8 from grannas is in and rear subframe is out . Going to reinforce rear diff mount with a weld on brace from FIGS this weekend. Funny thing too, the LEVEL5 axes from driveshaft shop dont look very much different than OEM TBH. but they sure are heavy.

Having very difficult time getting 8mm hex screws out from axles. I read about it as a known issue. going to try some air tools at my buddies house and then if that doesnt work, cutting the heads.

INTAKE VALVES ARE ALSO IN!!!

block gets picked up from machine shop in about 2 weeks, then I will drop the head off to get tested, and then it will get ported and flow matched.



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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Ty bro , i have a half inch impact battery powered however its on its last leg. Ill give it another shot with some air and you are correct, there is alot of build up in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Going to weld the figs rear diff reinforcement plate today or attempt. Had to use 1/2" pnumatic impact with extension to get most axle hex bolts out, had to cut 3 as they would not budge and would not come out with extractor either.

Will post pics later.


Also, what do u think about performance and affordability on the CX racing vs PHR manifolds? One is 3x more than the other.. is it worth the difference in cost? Was looking at cx if it can handle the 1300 +/- 200 hp range
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Was trying to spray primer today but unfortunately the auto body supply spot is closed for thanksgiving weekend.

Still waiting on machine shop. Hopefully will have head within the week to get sent to my guy for a port and flow match job.

Protunerz intake manifold should be here tuesday. I have asked a few people and there are a couple 1000+hp is300s on this mani so i assume it fits and will handle the power. This mani will be flow matched with the head.

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Does anyone know if you have to put in the square tunnel deal where the shifter goes if you are going auto to manual? I see this part for the supra being sold but not much on the lexy, maybe i just am not googling the right name for the part? looking for a how-to so i can make this as clean as possible.
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
As I will be going E85 with this build. I will be installing a NUKE 2gallon Fuel Surge tank, with 3 internal pumps ran in a 1+2 configuration for when I go into boost. Lets say , we will build the fuel system capable for 1500HP, would this warrant -8 or -10 fuel line to feed the rail?

My idea is, fuel line from surge tank to rail, with return line from rail back to fuel surge tank. then take the OEM supply and return and terminate on the Surge tank. Upgrade in tank pump and should be good to go . will keep surge tank full and have a return, and will keep out any air that tries to get in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Also looking into rear wheel tire setup. What are you running as far as a really good drag radial?

Apparently 15×10.25-inch, 275/60R15 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial Pro tires are doable.

What would it take fendor wise to make this fit?

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