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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my first toyota, moving from hondas.

I have some questions i bought an aem infinity 7106 and wanted to know the best way to retain AC.

I read about keeping both ecus, and some were able to use just the infinity ecu but there are no writeups / how to's that i found that are step by step.

Was hoping for some direction.

I drove 800 miles to grab a 2003 is300 with a blown tranny and body is clean.

Converting to manual and going 7675 or 8285 on e85.

Currently waiting on grannas t56 mag -f swap kit . Dropped some dough, it hurt a little but looking forward to the final result.
 

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I’m on dual ecu (stock + Infinity). I’ve not seen a real wire guide per se, but there’s enough info out there on various builds you can search and figure most of it out. If you go duals, you pretty much give the Infinity control of spark and fuel, and share the sensors (crank, cam, tps, etc) with the stock and infinity. The problem with the IS is that it’s DBW and most people leave throttle control on stock ecu, and it doesn’t idle real great with two ecus trying to control various aspects of the engine. This way with DBW on Infinity, you can set the Infinity to bump idle rpm when the AC/electric cooling fans come on to compensate for the extra draw. I would give all control to the Infinity (dbw, vvti, spark, fuel) and just let the stock ecu be present for the AC outside temp display, and it also does the Coolant temp gauge.

You can remove the stock ecu but you’ll have to wire up the AC high and low pressure switch thru the Infinity, and you have to wire the “AC” button up directly to the compressor clutch. Now I haven’t done that, but there’s a recent thread here that details it pretty good. I think the only thing you’ll really “lose” is the instampg and the coolant gauge when you remove the stock ecu.

If you hadn’t bought the Infinity, I’d recommend the drop in PnP Link-Panic ecu. But I can answer just about any question you’d have on wiring the Infinity to the IS. Main thing is to just break it up so you don’t get overwhelmed. You have to alter just about everything on this car to do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’m on dual ecu (stock + Infinity). I’ve not seen a real wire guide per se, but there’s enough info out there on various builds you can search and figure most of it out. If you go duals, you pretty much give the Infinity control of spark and fuel, and share the sensors (crank, cam, tps, etc) with the stock and infinity. The problem with the IS is that it’s DBW and most people leave throttle control on stock ecu, and it doesn’t idle real great with two ecus trying to control various aspects of the engine. This way with DBW on Infinity, you can set the Infinity to bump idle rpm when the AC/electric cooling fans come on to compensate for the extra draw. I would give all control to the Infinity (dbw, vvti, spark, fuel) and just let the stock ecu be present for the AC outside temp display, and it also does the Coolant temp gauge.

You can remove the stock ecu but you’ll have to wire up the AC high and low pressure switch thru the Infinity, and you have to wire the “AC” button up directly to the compressor clutch. Now I haven’t done that, but there’s a recent thread here that details it pretty good. I think the only thing you’ll really “lose” is the instampg and the coolant gauge when you remove the stock ecu.

If you hadn’t bought the Infinity, I’d recommend the drop in PnP Link-Panic ecu. But I can answer just about any question you’d have on wiring the Infinity to the IS. Main thing is to just break it up so you don’t get overwhelmed. You have to alter just about everything on this car to do it right.
Awesome info,

I appreciate all of this and will fall in line with your recommendation. I do intend on keeping AC as i am in a warmer climate that sees 110*F sometimes during the summer.

The only reason i bought the infinity is because a buddy dropped his build and gave me the discounted price on his brand new infinity ecu.

Thank you.
 

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No problem, man. Yeah 110F without AC ain’t no joke. We don’t typically get past 90’s but our humidity here is killer so you gotta have AC.

I’m not hating on the AEM. A lot of people don’t like it, but it’s been great for me. The Panic Link wasn’t available when I did mine. It’s just dead simple plug n play. Can’t beat that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What are options for mounts that are not solid? I have been searching but nothing has a hp rating. Was looking far hard but not solid mounts.
 

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Got my first toyota, moving from hondas.

I have some questions i bought an aem infinity 7106 and wanted to know the best way to retain AC.

I read about keeping both ecus, and some were able to use just the infinity ecu but there are no writeups / how to's that i found that are step by step.

Was hoping for some direction.

I drove 800 miles to grab a 2003 is300 with a blown tranny and body is clean.

Converting to manual and going 7675 or 8285 on e85.

Currently waiting on grannas t56 mag -f swap kit . Dropped some dough, it hurt a little but looking forward to the final result.
hi there i got a lexus is200 with a 1jzgte swap i did the swap years ago and wired in the standalone and i had a duel ecu so my stock ecu can run the gauges and but these car suffer from the fuel gauge issue and for years there were no fix for this until now, i imported my lexus to the uk from south africa and i spoke to another south african living here and builds wiring harnesses for these cars doing the 1j/2j and v8 swaps and sold me a mini ecu that converts the digtal signal to anologe, cause the lexus is300/200 uses the pulses from the injector to the body ecu then calculates the level in the tank in both sensors then adjusts the level, with this device it works cause it connects to direct to the MPX and coolant sensor and even the aircon as the below thread from Kris ok you can connect the pressure switch and this device connects the ACMG wire and connected to a relay you Aircon will work.
 

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What are options for mounts that are not solid? I have been searching but nothing has a hp rating. Was looking far hard but not solid mounts.
No one is going to rate any like that. Xcessive has mounts with bushings. You can chose between 65 and 75 hardness. But any bushing will wear out under that much load. But you could take the dimensions and make some out of even harder material or talk to them about some.
 

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No one is going to rate any like that. Xcessive has mounts with bushings. You can chose between 65 and 75 hardness. But any bushing will wear out under that much load. But you could take the dimensions and make some out of even harder material or talk to them about some.
HP/kW or any power rating is subjective as well, the force on the mount is really going to torque related than anything else - Force x the distance to the bush. The same mounts might be located different in different cars, therefore a power rating is going to be irrelevant.
 

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That sucks. Wonder why it’s listed as a drop in complete set up on that site I linked?
There's two options on his site last time I checked. $1600 for the pnp harness adapter and Link ECU. Then there's the $2000 full brand new harness and Link ECU
(Lexus IS/GS full engine harness + G4X ECU packages)
.

hi there i got a lexus is200 with a 1jzgte swap i did the swap years ago and wired in the standalone and i had a duel ecu so my stock ecu can run the gauges and but these car suffer from the fuel gauge issue and for years there were no fix for this until now, i imported my lexus to the uk from south africa and i spoke to another south african living here and builds wiring harnesses for these cars doing the 1j/2j and v8 swaps and sold me a mini ecu that converts the digtal signal to anologe, cause the lexus is300/200 uses the pulses from the injector to the body ecu then calculates the level in the tank in both sensors then adjusts the level, with this device it works cause it connects to direct to the MPX and coolant sensor and even the aircon as the below thread from Kris ok you can connect the pressure switch and this device connects the ACMG wire and connected to a relay you Aircon will work.
You must be talking about Phoenix Tuning on Facebook?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Cp pistons 10.0:1 hd and manly turbo tuff tribeam rods finally came in. Im doing some research on the head build and came across more questions. Mind you i came from the honda scene so buckets and shims are new to me.

My head will be fully gone through and looking at supertech valvetrain standard valve size and
Kelford 272 cams. My question is , with brand new cams what can i expect, will i need shims? Are there shimless buckets made?

Also, what can i expect in regards to degreeing the cams / intake specifically. Is there a "sweet spot" with these cams like 120 degrees from centerline (someone was telling me and i didnt quite understand what they meant) .

Thanks for your support. Going to cash in on this AMC stock rise and get the rest of the bottom end finished, including billet mains and 625+ hardware all around.
 

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brand new cams what can i expect, will i need shims?
Yes, you’ll need the adjustability of shims to set lash properly. You’d need to look at your Kelford’s cam card to see what the tolerance is…my GSC were 0.008 intake and 0.012 exhaust (+/-0.001”). The stock are shim on top buckets, but Supertech also makes a shim under bucket style.


Are there shimless buckets made?
Yep, sure is. So you order the shimless bucket according to the size you need to set the lash for all 24. Or the machine shop building the head can spec the same size shimless bucket you need for all 24, and then grind the valve stems to set the height and obtain proper lash.


what can i expect in regards to degreeing the cams / intake specifically
I don’t recall if you’re engine is VVTi? I don’t think you can degree a VVTi intake cam, only the exhaust. There’s degree wheel kits made so you can dial in the exhaust cam, though. It’s different for every motor/build so you just have to do the math/work for your particular engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes, you’ll need the adjustability of shims to set lash properly. You’d need to look at your Kelford’s cam card to see what the tolerance is…my GSC were 0.008 intake and 0.012 exhaust (+/-0.001”). The stock are shim on top buckets, but Supertech also makes a shim under bucket style.




Yep, sure is. So you order the shimless bucket according to the size you need to set the lash for all 24. Or the machine shop building the head can spec the same size shimless bucket you need for all 24, and then grind the valve stems to set the height and obtain proper lash.




I don’t recall if you’re engine is VVTi? I don’t think you can degree a VVTi intake cam, only the exhaust. There’s degree wheel kits made so you can dial in the exhaust cam, though. It’s different for every motor/build so you just have to do the math/work for your particular engine.
Yes it is vvti good info
 
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