Lexus IS Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok...let me see if I can explain all this...

I've got some LED's I'm installing under each of my seats on the inside of the car...I wired them to the cig lighter but don't want them on all the time so I purchased a switch from Radioshack...problem is it draws 20-amps...and the cig fuse is 15 amps...I buffed up the cig fuse to 20 and it still blew...should I find another powersource to power the switch or just get a bigger fuse? And also...the switch has a power, ground and accesory thingy....I'm guessing the accessory is so you can turn whatever your plugging in on an off...but what part of the LED's do I wire to the accessory, there's only a power and ground wire...do I have to add a wire or something?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,194 Posts
Ok...let me see if I can explain all this...

I've got some LED's I'm installing under each of my seats on the inside of the car...I wired them to the cig lighter but don't want them on all the time so I purchased a switch from Radioshack...problem is it draws 20-amps...and the cig fuse is 15 amps...I buffed up the cig fuse to 20 and it still blew...should I find another powersource to power the switch or just get a bigger fuse? And also...the switch has a power, ground and accesory thingy....I'm guessing the accessory is so you can turn whatever your plugging in on an off...but what part of the LED's do I wire to the accessory, there's only a power and ground wire...do I have to add a wire or something?
First of all, a switch by itself does not draw any amps, what's connected on the other end of the switch, in this case, the LEDs, would do all the current drawing. That being said, unless you have a really screwed up/shorted LED, there is no way in hell it could draw 20amps. The only even remote exception to this is that the switch itself has some built in LEDs, but even in that case, same argument applies, a normal LED would not draw 20amps.

You probably have something shorted somewhere, double check your wiring or describe/take pictures of what you wired so far and show us your findings.

EDIT: I just thought of something, if you are wiring LEDs directly to a 12v source, that's gonna be an issue. Most cheapo LEDs require much less than 12v (I think somewhere along the lines of 2v?) You will destory an LED if you connect it directly to a 12v source, which might be the cause of all your problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well it's 4 sets of LED's all going to the cig lighter...and the switch has a tiny light on it...but what would the accessory part of the switch connect to?

Here's some pics:



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,194 Posts
Well it's 4 sets of LED's all going to the cig lighter...and the switch has a tiny light on it...but what would the accessory part of the switch connect to?

Here's some pics:



Well depending on what that switch was made for, power may or may not be for a 12V source in the car. Since you said the switch has a built in LED, how that LED is wired in the switch would determine the voltage applied to the power lead.... the packaging/specs for the switch will tell you. I'm going to assume it's made for a 12V power source. Ground goes to ground, and ACC would presumably goto your LEDs, but it would feed 12V to your LEDs, which may be an issue like I described in my previous post.

A few more bits of info from you and I could help you out more:

1) What kind of LEDs did you get and what voltage and amps are they rated at? As mentioned before, if they're just cheapo loose LEDs you get a radioshack for <$1, they're probably 2-4 volts and 10-20mA, depending on color.

2) What is that 3rd picture of? The one with the stray wires?

3) And most importantly, how are you connecting the 4 LEDs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1) What kind of LEDs did you get and what voltage and amps are they rated at? As mentioned before, if they're just cheapo loose LEDs you get a radioshack for <$1, they're probably 2-4 volts and 10-20mA, depending on color.

2) What is that 3rd picture of? The one with the stray wires?

3) And most importantly, how are you connecting the 4 LEDs?
K...here's the specs for the switch

Here's the "specs" for the lights, didn't really give any specs...nor did the packaging they came in...LED's

The LED's are also found here but the site's having problems right now...

The 3rd picture is the positive and negative of a pair of LED strips connected to the positive and negative of the cig lighter...

And I've only wired one set of LED strips so far...the strips come connected with two in a set...I planned on hooking up the negative and positive of the other set to the positive and negative of the cig lighter though...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,194 Posts
K...here's the specs for the switch

Here's the "specs" for the lights, didn't really give any specs...nor did the packaging they came in...LED's

The LED's are also found here but the site's having problems right now...

The 3rd picture is the positive and negative of a pair of LED strips connected to the positive and negative of the cig lighter...

And I've only wired one set of LED strips so far...the strips come connected with two in a set...I planned on hooking up the negative and positive of the other set to the positive and negative of the cig lighter though...
Good stuff.... so the LEDs you're using aren't the cheapo ones from radio shack and looks like can be connected directly to 12V, no problems there. Also, the switch you got is 12V, so no problems there either. Here's what you need to do...

For the other strip you said you were gonna connect directly to cigarette lighter, this is easy, looks like you have it already, but just to recap:
1) Connect (-) of LEDs to GROUND
2) Connect (+) of LEDs to cigarette lighter 12V

That following should take care of the strip you want to control by switch:
1) Connect GROUND to Ground pin on switch
2) Connect Acc pin on switch to (+) of LEDs
3) Connect (-) of the LEDs to GROUND
4) Connect 12V source from your car to the Power pin on the switch (you'll probably want to also use cigarette lighter 12V for this as well)

NOTE: the GROUND mentioned above can be the (-) lead of the cigarette lighter.

And that's it.... Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
K...thanks...that's exactly how I had it wired up to the switch...but still one problem...I blew the 15 amp fuse for the cig lighter and replaced it with a 20 amp fuse and blew that as well...so what's the problem there...like you said...I seriously didn't think my LED's we're pulling more than 15 amps of current...so does that mean I should start looking for a short or something??

EDIT: just blew another 20 amp fuse =(...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,194 Posts
K...thanks...that's exactly how I had it wired up to the switch...but still one problem...I blew the 15 amp fuse for the cig lighter and replaced it with a 20 amp fuse and blew that as well...so what's the problem there...like you said...I seriously didn't think my LED's we're pulling more than 15 amps of current...so does that mean I should start looking for a short or something??

EDIT: just blew another 20 amp fuse =(...
Either there is a short in your wiring, a short in the switch, or a short in the LED lights. Does it only short when you put the switch in the mix? If so, then you can rule out the LED lights.

Anyway, just double check your wiring, make sure it's exactly as you think it is... I miss a connection here and there sometimes myself, or reverse something, which is bad

I was extremely bored and drew a quick picture for the wiring :) If either the Power or Acc/LED+ touches the ground in anyway, you'll blow your fuse.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok...wait...not everything is working fine...all the lights are turning on and stuff but the LED's are sound activated, to shift through their colors each time a bass note hits...the front set is working fine, but the back set isn't activated by the bass...the two remotes that control both sets are right next to each other...any explanations on why the second set isn't working like the first set?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,194 Posts
try this way its safer to your switch and wiring, i know, i know there leds but better safe than sorry.
Man, that's pretty cautious of you, it probably takes more current to switch the relay than power the LEDs! ;) Ok I might be exaggerating a little.... but still... hehe, nice PPT though!

p.s. Oh, and I think you mean a N/O relay right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok...wait...not everything is working fine...all the lights are turning on and stuff but the LED's are sound activated, to shift through their colors each time a bass note hits...the front set is working fine, but the back set isn't activated by the bass...the two remotes that control both sets are right next to each other...any explanations on why the second set isn't working like the first set?
Any suggestions on this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,194 Posts
Any suggestions on this?
I suggest you talk to the people who sold you the LEDs or the LED manufacturers. Unless someone else has owned the same LEDs as you, I don't think anyone can say what's wrong with them. It sounds like the wiring to get power to them correctly is fixed, and that's about all anyone can help you with.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top