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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my is recently and when i bought it sounded and rode good to me with no cel. The person i bought it from must have erased the codes because within my first 50 miles of driving it, the cel came on. First it was p0136 and that is b1s2 o2 sensor malfunction. So i remove it and find that emission bypasser device thingy.
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I had ordered a new sensor thinking i had to replace it because it read no voltage but i just put it back without that device and now I receive voltage but the short term fuel trim b1s2 still reads N/A. B2s2 shrttft reads 99.2 constantly. I have no clue what all this means.
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After receiving that o2 code, i got another code p0012 which is shown in this picture.
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Now that i am seeing this code, i dont think my engine is supposed to sound like this.
2jz is300 sound with p0012
I need to get emissions and inspection asap because this is the car i will be driving in august to get to college. Please help
 

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You've learned why it's such a good idea, when checking out a used car, to hook up a scan tool FIRST. When you see there have been zero trips since last reset - that's a big clue. Also, you should always shut the car off during a test drive because many faults that trigger a CEL (it' actually called the MIL - Malfunction Indication Lamp) require "two trips" to actually turn the light on.

I suspect your STFT is "N/A" because that feature was suspended on account of the sensor being non-operative. I would try running a bit more to see if that feature comes alive.

A better question is why the O2 anti-fouler (that extension dong thing the O2 sensor was screwed into) was installed. Hopefully it was somebody being cheap and figuring it was less expensive to install an anti-fouler vs. replacing the O2 sensor. Or it could have been installed to mask a failing catalyst...

Cam position fault:

You need to decide if you want to try to actually diagnose the real issue, or just throw parts at it. If you decide to start throwing parts at it (which is the easier approach), the first thing to try is a new sensor. If that doesn't fix it, you need to decide if you next want to change out the VVT solenoid or "rebuild" the VVT actuator - which is a timing belt off service - which basically implies doing a timing belt service. The VVT actuator relies on oil pressue to do its job. Pressure is controlled by the solenoid. The actuator does not get a lot of actual oil flow so the oil in it tends to kinda stagnate... When I "rebuilt" mine, the oil in it was really black and nasty. Old foul oil could potentially be causing it to stick in an improper position. I don't know of a way to "flush" this other than to take it off, disassemble, drain the oil from it and put it back together. The solenoid is faster/easier to replace, and it's equally possible that it is the problem, rather than the actuator.

Last, I don't know where you live, or what your "inspection" requires... But I didn't think a camshaft position fault was usually a problem. What usually matters is all emissions monitors have run and passed - thus providing you with "emissions readiness". I don't think you need to worry about the STFT being N/A so long as the O2 monitor has run and passed.
 

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Did you check the fuses for the O2 sensors? The p0012 maybe a dirty oil screen for the VVTi solenoid or the solenoid is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Did you check the fuses for the O2 sensors? The p0012 maybe a dirty oil screen for the VVTi solenoid or the solenoid is bad.
I will go try and find the fuses now. I am going to inspect and clean the vvt solenoid and the ocv filter and also do an oil change.
I live in Virginia and i think the cel light has to be off to pass. Not 100% tho.
if i drive the vehicle after all this without clearing the codes, will it disappear? Or should i clear the code? Because i want to see if the shrttft b1s2 will come on and i think if i erase it then it will reset and i will have to drive even more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
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just found that my oil cap is cracked.
Checked the vvt solenoid. It was clicking when I applied voltage to it but it didnt cause a rough idle or a stall.
also saw my timing belt while at it.
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Errr.... i wouldn't drive it on that belt if i were you. From here it looks cracked and about to let go :oops:
 

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What they said about the timing belt...don't drive on it. You should also do the cam gear seal while you are at it....I see oil along the rim of the cover so it's probably leaking. Actually, you should do everything...spark plugs, water pump, etc.
 

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As a fun aside, a pal has a late 90s Ford Ranger with 2.3L and unkown miles. It crapped out Easter sunday morning from a broken timing belt. Luckily, they're non-interference engines and easy to work on so he was back on the road by lunchtime. Anyway, I was able to break the belt into little pieces simply by pulling on it. Rather amazing it lasted as long as it did. I suppose that's because the valve springs are so soft you can almost actuate the valves by hand, and the cam only opens the valves about .300"
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes i plan doing a timing belt water pump kit and engine tune up. By cam gear seal, do you mean the front camshaft seals? If so, i do plan on changing it.
 

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Yes i plan doing a timing belt water pump kit and engine tune up. By cam gear seal, do you mean the front camshaft seals? If so, i do plan on changing it.
The vvti cam pulley itself has an o ring that gets old, hard, and begins to leak - especially when you take that cam pulley bolt out with an impact.

Unfortunately, I catalogued the part number for the correct o ring in an Amazon review - but the Gates Racing kit I reviewed is no longer for sale on Amazon and thus, the reviews are gone too. I'm sure if you search, you'll find the answer. IIRC, it was for some toyota 4wd transfer case, because Toyota does not sell parts for the cam pulley - they say to replace the whole thing, but that's a bunch of BS. It's just 3 bolts holding it together, pop the o ring into place and bolt it back together. There are YT videos about it. It's pretty easy.

You should def also replace the cam and crank seals while you've got everything apart.
 

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As a fun aside, a pal has a late 90s Ford Ranger with 2.3L and unkown miles. It crapped out Easter sunday morning from a broken timing belt. Luckily, they're non-interference engines and easy to work on so he was back on the road by lunchtime. Anyway, I was able to break the belt into little pieces simply by pulling on it. Rather amazing it lasted as long as it did. I suppose that's because the valve springs are so soft you can almost actuate the valves by hand, and the cam only opens the valves about .300"
Sadly, the 2jzge are interference engines, both vvti and non vvti. If that belt snaps, you can kiss your valves goodbye.
 
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