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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have an input on how to increase the bass and maintain the factory headunit.......also if your in socal please let me know the shop that did your work........thanks
 

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Depends on how much you're willing to spend. You can buy line-level converters and an external amp (or an amp with the converter built into it) to power a subwoofer or 6x9s in the rear deck.

Originally posted by GOTTURBO:
Does anyone have an input on how to increase the bass and maintain the factory headunit.......also if your in socal please let me know the shop that did your work........thanks
 

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Hey, I was going thru the same problem. I solved it by simply adding a 2 10" kicker Comps with a custom box and a Sony explode amp. I pulled off the rear speakes and the Sony amp has a high to low converter on the amp. I can still adjust the bass thru my head unit and let me tell it sounds 200 times better now. I was told by a sound pro, not to mess with the system because it already sounds great. He told me to simply add a sub. I couldn't be happier. If you have any specific questions just post.
 

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SIMPLEST solution is a Bazooka tube...quality on the other hand...

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-jb-
'01 Black Onyx
 

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BASS is the way to do.. I added a 12' JL with a punch power amp to the rear of my is. I put the 12 in a hot box so it almost sounds like 2 12's and the IS is very good at damping the trunk rattle..It barely has any. Its like dyno without dyno....
 

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Yeah - I just added one 100watt (bridged) amp, and a single 10" sub driven by the rear (lower/outer) speaker signals. I just wired inline with the existing speaker wires, so some people said I may be messing up the impedance that my amp sees, and overload the amp, but so far it sounds and works great, and my stock amps seem to be driving both the rear speakers and sub input without any cutouts or clippping.
 

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I built my own sub and added it to the factory IS stereo system. Worked perfectly for what I wanted: added clean, solid bass throughout the volume range. It doesn't shake windows from 1/2 block away like some monsters, but it is 1000% improvement (in bass feel) over the factory system.

There are some details on my web site.

I like it because 1) it left the factory system fully intact, 2) the bass is great, 3) it doesn't waste the whole trunk, and 4) it was fun to do.

Do a search in this forum for 'hackerbenny' for a complete set of instructions on how to tap into the factory system and run the wires.

Rob


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2001 IS300
Spectra Blue Mica/Ivory
LS, LD, HH, SR, 17" wheels
2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
4.7L, QuadraDrive, UpCountry
Patriot Blue, Fully loaded

[This message has been edited by MNSpectraBlueIS (edited November 22, 2000).]
 

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I custom built a box with 3 10" JL AUDIO 10w6's and a punch 125.2.
Its pretty sweet but now there is SO MUCH BASS I had to turn the gains way down to balance it out with the factory amp.
100 times better than just the stock stereo.
I'm really loving it now!!
Best thing to get to tap into the speaker wires is a HIGH power step-down converter.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks for all the help........think I will add 2 10 or 12" tubes with a ppi amp........had one more question about tapping the rear speakers and using a high low converter......could someone explain how to tap into the rear speakers......thanks nicky
 

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Originally posted by GOTTURBO:
thanks for all the help........think I will add 2 10 or 12" tubes with a ppi amp........had one more question about tapping the rear speakers and using a high low converter......could someone explain how to tap into the rear speakers......thanks nicky
Since our stereo system is amplified you will need a HIGH power step down, dont get a low powered one. It just hooks right up to the two rear speakers. No external power is necessary but if you get interference there is usually two brown wires on the converter that are both ground wires for the two channels. You shouldnt need to hook those up since you are converting the signal to use for low frequency amplification.
Its is VERY simple to do. If you need more info...just ask!!!
 

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It has been suggested that the front speakers be used to tap off of, because the rear speaker wires are already crossed over in the factory amp (for the co-axial rear speakers). The fronts are full-range. I'm no expert, so I don't know for certain what is better. I chose to tap off of the fronts just in case. My system sounds sweeeeet!!

Rob
 
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