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Anybody do this in the Los Angeles area, if so what shop did you go to and how much. Talking install not the parts. I know a shop in Hawthorne Torrance area that will do my clutch which is slipping after 230k miles all of a sudden. Now I want this setup, but I dont know if the shop can handle this type of setup if it needs extra instructions.
 

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Im doing this swap soon, just ordered the parts. Ill keep you guys up to date in case anybody wants to do this still. Im just in the ordering stage though. the eparts store still exists and so does the 10% discount so they are the best to order from, but shipping soaks up all that discount but still, it would've been in the under 6 hundred range for all the parts.
 

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My parts arrived, I got everything mentioned in this post. placed the order late thursday, got the parts the following tuesday. heading to my mechanic possibly thursday.
 

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Into the shop on Thursday, out of the shop on Wednesday. I paid 675 for the work. Car feels fantastic. No issues so far.
 

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I've been subscribed to this thread for a long time, waiting for my OE clutch to give out. It started slipping in 3rd and so this holiday break I got into it.

I did the work myself on jack stands; this was my first clutch job. Generally I followed the procedure here: http://my.is/forums/f221/clutch-swap-diy-350510/
(I will follow up later w a post to that thread with some tips on doing the work, but no real surprises by comparison.)

Below is the parts list with the prices I paid. Items were bought either at Toyotapartsestore.com or toyotapartsdeal.com.

Code:
[B]qty.    Price Total     p/n            Item[/B]
1    $340.00     13405-46040    N/A Supra flywheel
8    $49.52     90910-02103    Flywheel bolts
1    $6.32     31473-14030*    Slave cyl push rod (from TT Supra)
1    $74.35     31250-30391-84    N/A sprung clutch disc
1    $6.24     90363-12002-77    Pilot bearing
1    $54.43     31230-22101    Release bearing
1    $35.45     90311-90006    Rear main seal
1    $96.35     31210-30261-84    Pressure plate
3    $2.82     90250-08054    Dowel Pin
4    $4.00     9010510466    Drive shaft bolt
4    $3.32     9017810007    Drive shaft nut
4    $5.04     9056010102    Drive shaft washer
2    $11.06     9091706046    Y-pipe gasket
3    $3.57     91515-81035    Bolt - header/y exhaust
3    $3.60     90177-10001    Lock nut - header/y exhaust
[B]Total: $696 (+taxes, shipping)[/B]
Some related points...
- car has 190k km (120k Mi). Stock flywheel was def. needing replacing (springs were dead) and clutch disc was pretty thin.
- I installed "slave cyl push rod" with the boot collar 'neck' closest to the slave cyl. No clutch pedal adjustment was needed, and so far no chirping from the throw-out bearing. I have a return spring on-hand in case this changes. FWIW I've never had the TOB chirping problem. Car is an '04.
- pedal feel is def. lighter than stock setup
- I removed the clutch dampener years ago

So far I'm very happy w the change.
 

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ARP bolts are a bit longer than Toyota bolts

I purchased both the Toyota 90910-02103 and ARP 203-2802




However, based on Celica owners that do a 2JZ-GTE swap they claimed the ARP bolts are too long, and will bottom out. But this may just be the 2JZ-GTE crankshaft is threaded and expecting the 6 speed.

Has anyone used these bolts when doing the Supra flywheel? I'd imagine the IS300's 2JZ-GE may use a much different crank shaft in combination with the massive flywheel on the W55, so the crankshaft may have a bit more threading to accommodate that (Especially if they used torque to yield bolts).

ARP seems to document that these will work just fine on the W58 flywheel, which I guess only is ever paired up with the 2JZ-GE. None-turbo.
 

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I purchased both the Toyota 90910-02103 and ARP 203-2802




However, based on Celica owners that do a 2JZ-GTE swap they claimed the ARP bolts are too long, and will bottom out. But this may just be the 2JZ-GTE crankshaft is threaded and expecting the 6 speed.

Has anyone used these bolts when doing the Supra flywheel? I'd imagine the IS300's 2JZ-GE may use a much different crank shaft in combination with the massive flywheel on the W55, so the crankshaft may have a bit more threading to accommodate that (Especially if they used torque to yield bolts).

ARP seems to document that these will work just fine on the W58 flywheel, which I guess only is ever paired up with the 2JZ-GE. None-turbo.

Crankshaft holes are more likely to be the same.

You can cut the shaft of the ARP studs down to the correct length and you'll often see this in flywheel instructions when required. i.e. the OS Giken instructions tell you that you can use ARP studs and what length to cut them back to.
 

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Yes. but those flywheels are slightly thinner too when mounting. Anybody have experience with these ARP bolts on the W58 flywheel? ARP made these for some sort of toyota oem flywheel.

Well good thing I have both sets of bolts. I would rather return the ARP bolts without opening the package to find out they will bottom out.
 

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Make it easy on yourself; use the OEM bolts, and return the ARPs.

From what I remember the crankshaft holes are thru-holes and there is probably clearance for a few threads on the other side, but why bother with a new path? Good-guy OEM has even pre-applied the loctite for you.
 

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Great news! The ARP 203-2802 fit perfectly with the OEM Toyota W58 flywheel. I am not sure if the aftermarket flywheels (Maybe the Fidanza would) - will work with the ARP bolts due to variations in thickness.

The difference in threads is about 3-4 threads, not sure how much the stretch bolts - "stretch". But it wouldn't be absurd for the bolts to stretch a 1-2 thread length. So chances are the crank is deep enough to accommodate for all the different OEM Toyota stretch bolts used in the GE, GTE, and various transmissions that mate to these from the factory.

Get the ARPs if you are going to do this upgrade, 70 ft-lbs of torque with the blue locktite on the threads and supplied ARP grease on bolt heads.
 

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Going to replace my clutch tomorrow on my is300.

I'm going with Stage 2 Competition Clutch kit for the n/a supra along with the light flywheel. Toyota OEM bolts and throw out bearing. Will keep you updated since I believe no one is running this set up. I will also be doing the CDD
 

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Will it be fine with LuK or SACHS flywheel and clutch kit on rockauto instead of Toyota OEM??
It is way cheaper than Toyota OEM flywheel.
I'm not in the United States and not much supra or is300 parts here.
I have to import these parts and pay tax on import.
 

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Will it be fine with LuK or SACHS flywheel and clutch kit on rockauto instead of Toyota OEM??
It is way cheaper than Toyota OEM flywheel.
I'm not in the United States and not much supra or is300 parts here.
I have to import these parts and pay tax on import.
for fitment issues, it should be kosher. parts reliability it can be up in the air. they're oem replacement parts which aren't factory oem. so even tho it's cheaper, you get what you pay for

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