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Ok, just to confirm a discrepancy, I bought 3 pins when I did this job on my car a little under a month ago, and they did turn out to be the proper number from Lexus for the flywheel dowels. That part number is:

90250-08054, need a quantity of 3 to do the job.

So far, at 1200 miles, the clutch has been fantastic. I did the clutch damper delete as well, so, the pedal had a softer, yet more responsive feel. Being stock except for this clutch and the exhaust, the difference in feel was pretty astounding.
I just did this last month too. I also bought the pins too. See below. I got my parts from Toyota E Parts Store. I believe that was the cheapest I could find.

Also have 1200 miles so far...no issues at all. Shifts are smoother, engagement predictable, no chirping. This clutch set up + CDD delete = win

Item Name and Options1 Make Model Year Qty Price
FLYWHEEL SUB-ASSY
[Part#: 1340546040] Toyota 0 1 289.8
REAN CLUTCH COVER
[Part#: 312103026184] Toyota 0 1 90.48
BEARING ASSY CLUTCH
[Part#: 3123022101] Toyota 0 1 52.03
REAN DISC CLUTCH
[Part#: 312503039184] Toyota 0 1 69.22
ROD RELEASE CYLINDE
[Part#: 3147314030] Toyota 0 1 6.26
SEAL TYPE T OIL
[Part#: 9031190006] Toyota 0 1 31.2
BEARINGBAL1232F
[Part#: 903631200277] Toyota 0 1 6.24
BOLT
[Part#: 9091002103] Toyota 0 8 5.9
PIN STRAIGHT
[Part#: 9025008054] Toyota 0 3 0.94
Sub Total: $595.25
Coupon Code: 10%
Coupon Discount: $59.53
Discount Price: $577.39
Shipping Total: $41.67
(+) Sales Tax @ 0%
Order Total: $577.39
 

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I just did the Supra clutch/flywheel combo swap last week -- feels great! I have the figs clutch delete, but haven't installed it yet.

One question for those of you that have done this swap -- did you notice any change in the sound of the car? Mine is definitely a little different -- not bad, and very subtle. It's almost like it has a bit of a throaty/raspy sound, whereas the engine was always silent before. My buddy is a mechanic at Lexus (he did the install), and said that he is not worried about it at all, and it might just be due to changing out to such a drastically different flywheel.
 

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It didn't change the sound of my car at all. The only thing I noticed was the revs rise and fall more quickly. I guess that could change the overall sound when giving it some revs. I didn't notice any sound changes during regular driving, just a little more pep in the acceleration.
 

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Can't attest to a difference in sound; I put an OBX header on at the same time, lol. So, the car definitely sounded different without 150k miles of dirty cats restricting the flow. The only noise my clutch assembly makes is that bastard throwout fork singing in neutral with the clutch pedal up. Should have put a throttle return spring on it like some of the earlier posts recommended, but...shoulda, woulda, coulda.
 

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Can't attest to a difference in sound; I put an OBX header on at the same time, lol. So, the car definitely sounded different without 150k miles of dirty cats restricting the flow. The only noise my clutch assembly makes is that bastard throwout fork singing in neutral with the clutch pedal up. Should have put a throttle return spring on it like some of the earlier posts recommended, but...shoulda, woulda, coulda.
Interesting that you all didn't have any change in sound like me....again, mine is very subtle, and actually sounds great IMO. I did this mod along with the Figs clutch dampener delete, and I am blown away by the difference! I always had a hard time rev-matching in the past...now it's easier than in any car I've owned. If anyone is considering this mod...just do it :)
 

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I am curious if anyone has been having issues with the throw-out bearing going out early.
I have already had to replace it once and have to do it again this is around 4-5k miles of normal use.

As to the sound difference I did hear a throati-ness that wasn't there before.
Love the mod w/ a Figs dampener delete but just wish I got a bit more life out of the bearing. Is there something I should check to make sure something else isn't causing this?

Thanks.
 

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I'm looking to do this swap in the near future as my clutch seems to be going out slowly...

Where is the best place to purchase these parts?

Sewell offers Clublexus members a discount but it doesn't seem like they sell new OE Toyota parts.
Carson Toyota seems to have discounted pricing but when I priced it out last night, it came out to about ~$750.

Are there other dealerships/shops that offer greater discounts? I was expecting to spend about ~$550-600 as others have mentioned previously.
 

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Hey sennet,

Read my post near the top of page. I posted my invoice. Out the door was like $570. no tax, all new OEM parts.

I got 5000 miles on my set up and it's alllllllll good still. I don't even get that chirping that everyone's complaining about (knock on wood)
 

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Hey sennet,

Read my post near the top of page. I posted my invoice. Out the door was like $570. no tax, all new OEM parts.

I got 5000 miles on my set up and it's alllllllll good still. I don't even get that chirping that everyone's complaining about (knock on wood)
AH.. Thanks! I totally looked over your post...

Do you still have that coupon code that you used? or know where I could get one?
 

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I can endorse what bryan said. I used Toyota parts zone for this and for a few other jobs now. They are pretty awesome! Never had an issue with a part I got from them. Amazon/ebay on the other hand... don't get me started.

As for the chirp, there was a service bulletin for the slave cylinder within Lexus (not sure if it went full blown recall, don't think it did). When I put in the new slave the chirp went away 98% of the time. But once in a great while it will come back randomly for a day.

Thmpinmonkey, did you grease your bearings and fork well? Might be it was damaged during install or could have been a bad one from the beginning.... 40K miles later and mine is just fine!
 

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Yeah, the code is still active, and actually posted on their main page. The code is: 10%

Toyota Parts - Toyota OEM Parts

The site looks kind of shady, but it's legit. I think its ran by Conicelli Toyota of Springfield
I read this entire thread except this last page, and decided to use this store. The entire time thinking, "man this site looks so damn sketchy," and almost didn't order it. I'm glad you posted this lol. Order placed. Some of the parts have gone up in price, still the cheapest site, and the code still works.
 

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went the Toyota E Parts Store route as posted above. parts came in a reasonable time. everything worked out. so i'll vouch for them as well. that and their price + 10% beats all of the dealers near me even with the shipping cost. so its no brainer for me esp for OEM parts.

regarding the chirp... mine developed 2 months after install and its a little embarrassing because everyone knows i do my own work ha. i only replaced the slave rod with the supra TT one. should i replace the whole slave cylinder? i know another member made their own 82mm rod as well; but as of now, i cheat and ride the clutch ever so slightly to avoid the chirp :p which slave cylinder did you guys go with? supra na? or just a new is300 w/ tt rod?
 

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ROD RELEASE CYLINDE
[Part#: 3147314030] Toyota 0 1 6.26
i cross referenced the p/n and its off the supra tt/is250 so this is what you put in and no chirp?? im about to make another order ha

edit: nevermind, thats the same part i put in and i still have a chirp :[
 

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went the Toyota E Parts Store route as posted above. parts came in a reasonable time. everything worked out. so i'll vouch for them as well. that and their price + 10% beats all of the dealers near me even with the shipping cost. so its no brainer for me esp for OEM parts.

regarding the chirp... mine developed 2 months after install and its a little embarrassing because everyone knows i do my own work ha. i only replaced the slave rod with the supra TT one. should i replace the whole slave cylinder? i know another member made their own 82mm rod as well; but as of now, i cheat and ride the clutch ever so slightly to avoid the chirp :p which slave cylinder did you guys go with? supra na? or just a new is300 w/ tt rod?
I just used a return spring to pull on the arm of the slave cylinder. it's mentioned somewhere in this thread. took a couple attempts to get the tension right, but i haven't heard it since (last summer or something). i could only hear it while in neutral at idle also, not sure if that's the case for you.
 

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I just used a return spring to pull on the arm of the slave cylinder. it's mentioned somewhere in this thread. took a couple attempts to get the tension right, but i haven't heard it since (last summer or something). i could only hear it while in neutral at idle also, not sure if that's the case for you.
ahhh i did read that now that you mention it. i just didnt recall it since i read it before i did the install. yeah it only chirps in neutral at idle. thanks man!
 

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I bought a new slave cylinder and the chirp remained. Don't spend money on a new slave cylinder; just install the spring as mentioned.
 
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