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Sweet, I'll probably go through ToyotaPartsZone but first I'll check the dealer out and see how much everything could be through there just for kicks and giggles. If anything I'll probably create another thread on my swap just to keep everything up to date.

For sure I'll get the dowel pins since I don't want to reuse anything. All I know I don't want to have to redo the job again lol
It's unlikely you will giggle when you see their price vs ordering online. Like TOM said, you can use the old ones but IMO if you're going new everything else - why not keep the trend, keep the parts fresh and have the peace of mind?
 

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Consolidated clutch/tranny DIY

I just did this install this past weekend. All parts listed in the first post are exactly what is needed. I was a little weary to do this as the model interchange of parts just didn't sound right, but much research on these lovely forums, by even more lovely members' replies, built my confidence. My clutch was also slipping at high RPMs when passing on the highway so I had to do this fast and cheaper than the $3700 quote Lexus gave me (I live near Bellevue, WA...). I also didn't want to be missing something and needed this done right the first time so I got a little anal as you can see in the pic below. And, while I did indeed end up missing some things, I got it done one hour past my guesstimate. About 16 on-car hours across 3 days. I could do it again in 6 hours... just never know exactly what you're looking for the first time. :) I will sum up what I've read and experienced with hopes that others will do this inexpensive upgrade without worry.

This started as simple write up on my end, but turned into a DIY. Yes, I know there is plenty of info out there, but I pretty much took everything I learned and rearranged it - making a PDF for everyone.

<<<read PDF here>>

Thank you to all that helped me. I can't begin to mention you all, but you know who you are and what you do for this forum. And we all thank you very much. 6 years on these forums and using the search function has allowed me to do anything I've needed to do. THANK you to what_is_IS for starting this thread and for all his input and trials.

Please let me know of corrections and suggestions. I typed this off memory and am not perfect. :)
-Jason

I take no responsibility for damage incurred to persons or things regarding anything in this post. It is a guide only and the service manual should be referenced first. If I could offer you one piece of advice, wear your safety glasses, gloves, and SEARCH!! 25% of this was experience under the car, the other 75% is slightly plagiarized from countless threads on this forum. :bigSmile:
 

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Yes, I installed the Supra TT push rod backwards. Somewhere on this thread I believe I read that it fit better. I agreed and left it that way. It was 'notchy' feeling when in the proper position and smooth like the stock push rod when backwards.
 

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I just did this install this past weekend. All parts listed in the first post are exactly what is needed. I was a little weary to do this as the model interchange of parts just didn't sound right, but much research on these lovely forums, by even more lovely members' replies, built my confidence. My clutch was also slipping at high RPMs when passing on the highway so I had to do this fast and cheaper than the $3700 quote Lexus gave me (I live near Bellevue, WA...). I also didn't want to be missing something and needed this done right the first time so I got a little anal as you can see in the pic below. And, while I did indeed end up missing some things, I got it done one hour past my guesstimate. About 16 on-car hours across 3 days. I could do it again in 6 hours... just never know exactly what you're looking for the first time. :) I will sum up what I've read and experienced with hopes that others will do this inexpensive upgrade without worry.

This started as simple write up on my end, but turned into a DIY. Yes, I know there is plenty of info out there, but I pretty much took everything I learned and rearranged it - making a PDF for everyone.

<<<read PDF here>>

Thank you to all that helped me. I can't begin to mention you all, but you know who you are and what you do for this forum. And we all thank you very much. 6 years on these forums and using the search function has allowed me to do anything I've needed to do. THANK you to what_is_IS for starting this thread and for all his input and trials.

Please let me know of corrections and suggestions. I typed this off memory and am not perfect. :)
-Jason

I take no responsibility for damage incurred to persons or things regarding anything in this post. It is a guide only and the service manual should be referenced first. If I could offer you one piece of advice, wear your safety glasses, gloves, and SEARCH!! 25% of this was experience under the car, the other 75% is slightly plagiarized from countless threads on this forum. :bigSmile:
Can someone give this man a medal!?!?!

Those of the little kinds of things I hate, you think you have everything and then nope, forgot this, and that and then 3 weeks of shipping(exaggeration). lol

Great and perfect write up! Defiantly appreciate the PDF. Life savor!
 

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Ahh ok. I follow now. I should have made it clearer in the PDF. Thanks for looking out!! :)
 

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So I tried poking around and I haven't quite found a definite answer. Will a W58 Clutch Kit and Flywheel work with a W58 SLAVE CYLINDER with ROD on a W55 trans...? I'm doing an auto to manual swap and I am buying parts new so if I can just buy a W58 Slave Cylinder assembly instead of buying a W55 SC with TT Supra Rod it would save some time and steps.
 

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I'm noticing some info not adding up...in the PDF, it was said you would need a 1 1/8"(1.125), 23 spline. You supplied an O'Reilly part number, which looks to be a 21 spline. I literally just placed my order for all of my clutch components, and figured I can get an alignment tool pretty easily. I just wanna know which one I actually need.
 

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Thanks for catching that. It is a 21 spline, NOT 23 spline. I confirmed the part number on the packaging for the alignment tool is correct. The packaging doesn't list the spline count or diameter. I was pulling it from memory.. though, I would like to wipe the memory of the 2 hour ordeal at 7pm on a Friday between two separate O'Reilly's to try and find this tool. One will called it to the other, but the other couldn't find it.. blah blah eventually someone found it. LOL

If you ask the parts counter rep that you need one for a 96 Supra, they will be able to find it.
 

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PDF updated in post #222.

push rod clarification, Sewell link, clutch alignment tool spline count, few grammar, added/removed relevant service manual pages, added link to dowel pins provided by Savage_IS300 (someone please confirm if they work when you install them - I am sure they will :) ), added hint about rotating the tranny and beating the trans tunnel that someone mentioned on these forums...
 

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I guess you don't 'have' to beat it. I only slightly beat it where the bellhousing hit the trans tunnel during removal. The below link mentions beating the tunnel so you have more room the next time you have to remove it [the tranny].

Anyone change clutch on 02 is300 - ISfanatics.com
 

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I loosened the motor mount bolts where they go into the subframe and with that I was able to tip the whole engine/trans assembly backwards to have easier access to the bell housing bolts and to allow the trans to come right out.
 

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Hey!!!!! I just did this install myself using all this info. Im a technician at a toyota dealership so I it was the perfect route to take. I get good prices for parts. It took me around 6 hours. All the parts listed are exactly what you need. A little hiccup I ran into was that the new flywheel wont have dowells, so hopefully you can get the old dowells out of the original flywheel. I couldn't but my shop had some. this was a huge improvement over the stock clutch setup. especially since i also replaced the clutch dampener with a figs delete tube. Can't explain the gratitude I have for this thread.
 

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Front Suspension Member

I'm going to be attempting this soon, but have very limited experience/skill.

Seems like lowering the front suspension member and loosening the motor mounts is the way to go, but are you guys doing anything about the steering gear that sits on the suspension member? Seems like that would bind/stress it when lowering it?
 

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Discussion Starter #239
And to answer what I know will certainly come to my inbox, I don't have the car anymore, but apparently years later the clutch is doing great. No issues. I did run into the current owner awhile back and everything seemed fine. Carry on!
 

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Ok, just to confirm a discrepancy, I bought 3 pins when I did this job on my car a little under a month ago, and they did turn out to be the proper number from Lexus for the flywheel dowels. That part number is:

90250-08054, need a quantity of 3 to do the job.

So far, at 1200 miles, the clutch has been fantastic. I did the clutch damper delete as well, so, the pedal had a softer, yet more responsive feel. Being stock except for this clutch and the exhaust, the difference in feel was pretty astounding.
 
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