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Discussion Starter #61
First day at COTA in the books, 2:52 lap time was the beat i could put down with a bit of traffic. Oil temps stayed below 240, coolant under 205 and the falken tires were excellent, lots of slip angle and grip, could have used stiffer spring rates though. Old 4 pot supra brakes didn't let me down going from 115mph to 35 at the end of the back straight.

The old war horse survives for tomorrow with no issues, although I can tell the 240k mile engine is starting to get tired, going to run it till it doesn't though.
 

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First day at COTA in the books, 2:52 lap time was the beat i could put down with a bit of traffic. Oil temps stayed below 240, coolant under 205 and the falken tires were excellent, lots of slip angle and grip, could have used stiffer spring rates though. Old 4 pot supra brakes didn't let me down going from 115mph to 35 at the end of the back straight.

The old war horse survives for tomorrow with no issues, although I can tell the 240k mile engine is starting to get tired, going to run it till it doesn't though.
nice!! I know someone in a CTR that did cota for the first time, 2:32 but he's a beastly Brazilian man I'm intrigued to try out those falkens... you're running 255/40 on 17x8.5... and steering response is still good? temps have been in the triple digits at my local tracks, I might have to venture to Laguna seca where it's a cooler in the 80s good to hear the r10's holding up. I got them mainly for auto club speedway where you go 140 to 35 oval to infield

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #65
First day at COTA in the books, 2:52 lap time was the beat i could put down with a bit of traffic. Oil temps stayed below 240, coolant under 205 and the falken tires were excellent, lots of slip angle and grip, could have used stiffer spring rates though. Old 4 pot supra brakes didn't let me down going from 115mph to 35 at the end of the back straight.

The old war horse survives for tomorrow with no issues, although I can tell the 240k mile engine is starting to get tired, going to run it till it doesn't though.
nice!! I know someone in a CTR that did cota for the first time, 2:32 but he's a beastly Brazilian man I'm intrigued to try out those falkens... you're running 255/40 on 17x8.5... and steering response is still good? temps have been in the triple digits at my local tracks, I might have to venture to Laguna seca where it's a cooler in the 80s good to hear the r10's holding up. I got them mainly for auto club speedway where you go 140 to 35 oval to infield

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Track temps were 140+, falkens felt great, lots of slip angle and grip, super consistent. A similar car on hankook rs4s was a bit quicker, so I might try those next, but I'm not disappointed in the falkens at all. Even in the wet session they were sticky to the touch when I came off track
 

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Discussion Starter #66
The old war horse survives for tomorrow with no issues, although I can tell the 240k mile engine is starting to get tired, going to run it till it doesn't though.
What will be your plans when the engine goes?
I have a rebuilt 2jzge ready to go, scca stx spec, so .020 oversize pistons, and stock everything else, but I did go with coated bearings and balanced rotating assembly for longevity, which is how toyota did them in the first place. I may have gone overkill on it, sandblasted all the aluminum parts and had every piece of hardware plated gold zinc
 

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I have a rebuilt 2jzge ready to go, scca stx spec, so .020 oversize pistons, and stock everything else, but I did go with coated bearings and balanced rotating assembly for longevity, which is how toyota did them in the first place. I may have gone overkill on it, sandblasted all the aluminum parts and had every piece of hardware plated gold zinc
Are you happy with the power output or are you staying n/a for class restrictions?
 

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Discussion Starter #69
I have a rebuilt 2jzge ready to go, scca stx spec, so .020 oversize pistons, and stock everything else, but I did go with coated bearings and balanced rotating assembly for longevity, which is how toyota did them in the first place. I may have gone overkill on it, sandblasted all the aluminum parts and had every piece of hardware plated gold zinc
Are you happy with the power output or are you staying n/a for class restrictions?
Class restrictions mainly, but I do have a lot of fun beating faster cars with a ge engine with only bolt ons
 

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Hey man, car looks good! Just had my 2nd day at COTA and I had some questions for you regarding car setup.

My car is basically stock, I have only the mods listed in my sig. I'm obviously getting a lot of body roll and I'm looking into getting KW V3 coilovers in the near future. My tires and brakes can handle anything that I can throw at them for the time being.

Have you corner balanced your car? What alignment specs do you go with? Which bushings made the biggest improvement when switched to poly? Do you have any adjustable arms?

Thanks in advanced. I had a lot of fun last weekend - made a lot of personal progress. I ran a 3:13, not bad considering I have less than 2 hours total track time but I managed to chase down and pass a C7 ZR1 and V10 R8, and also got moved up to Intermediate class. Looking forward to the next one!

Also wanted to add, with the 25 row oil cooler my oil didn't go over 225f. Compared to 265f last time, with 10f lower ambient.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Hey man, car looks good! Just had my 2nd day at COTA and I had some questions for you regarding car setup.

My car is basically stock, I have only the mods listed in my sig. I'm obviously getting a lot of body roll and I'm looking into getting KW V3 coilovers in the near future. My tires and brakes can handle anything that I can throw at them for the time being.

Have you corner balanced your car? What alignment specs do you go with? Which bushings made the biggest improvement when switched to poly? Do you have any adjustable arms?

Thanks in advanced. I had a lot of fun last weekend - made a lot of personal progress. I ran a 3:13, not bad considering I have less than 2 hours total track time but I managed to chase down and pass a C7 ZR1 and V10 R8, and also got moved up to Intermediate class. Looking forward to the next one!

Also wanted to add, with the 25 row oil cooler my oil didn't go over 225f. Compared to 265f last time, with 10f lower ambient.
I have indeed corner balanced, it's sitting at a perfect 50/50 cross (lf to rr, rf to lr) about 55% front 45% rear total is the best I've been able to do, that 2j is a boat anchor

Alignment specs are -1.9 camber in the front, basically maxed on my stock adjusters (although i think I could get more if I had a few hours to play with it on the rack), -2.0 rear camber, front toe at .003 out on each side, rear toe .006 in on both sides. Caster is about 5.7, i don't have the adjustable bushings.

The front lower control arm and front caster arm bushings make the biggest difference in my opinion, i have many more, but those are the minimum I would go with. All my upper arm bushings, front and rear are stock, my rear upper wishbone are original with 238k, no idea why they're still good.

Only aftermarket arms I have are rear lowers, i have the truhart ones with poly bushings so they are scca/stx legal, they're great over stock since they delete the cam bolt adjusters for camber, settings don't slip anymore.

No idea what my oil temps were last time out but it did fine, i estimate about 230 though, an oil temp gauge is on the list for the future.

I managed a 2:52 or so lap time in the dry, most of that down to tires, brakes and suspension since these damn cars put about 180hp to the wheels. I'd avoid KW products tbh, not worth the money at all, worked on a few racecars that specd them and they were junk. My fortune autos have 70k miles on them and have had no issues, but any coilovers in the 1500 to 3000 range will be pretty decent, aside from bc and me (I'm sure I'll get a lot of crap for hating on 2 popular brands but its just an opinion and you can take it for what it's worth lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Ran an SCCA TT at MSR Cresson on the 1.3 circuit yesterday, go beat pretty handily in class, 2.5 sec off first, but the car survived the day, plus a 2 off and a full 4 off lawn mowing when I out drove the brakes in one session (Figs Engineering did great on the RB kit, I just went in way too hot). Still have a lot to learn, but the brakes never faded, the drivetrain (with 240k miles) held up fine and the Falken Rt615k+ tires took the abuse, although I think the RS4s are a little bit faster.

 

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Do you guys have any issues heel-toe'ing with these cars? I cant for the life of me be able to effectively brake and downshift with mine because of the delayed and vague gas pedal feedback, which also feels too low compared to the brake pedal.

I'm thinking of adding a spacer on top of the gas pedal to make it level with the brake pedal and do the typical modifications to increase the throttle response.
 

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Do you guys have any issues heel-toe'ing with these cars? I cant for the life of me be able to effectively brake and downshift with mine because of the delayed and vague gas pedal feedback, which also feels too low compared to the brake pedal.

I'm thinking of adding a spacer on top of the gas pedal to make it level with the brake pedal and do the typical modifications to increase the throttle response.
no issues here... I do have the CCD removed, a Supra NA flywheel/clutch setup, gas pedal spring delete and tighten the slope from the cable it self.


you could just do separate actions. brake, then clutch, gas and shift... sounds almost the same

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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I'm trying to learn heel and toe myself. The spacer has been documented and posted here. I'll be doing it myself for my track car as I also find the pedal distance awkward.
 

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Pedal distance in this car isn't great but not horrible either. I don't find much trouble doing it on the track.

For those practicing you should certainly master it on the street first before trying it on the track. That said its hardest on the street because you really need hard braking to give you a solid place to pivot. Heel toe with light to medium braking is possible but much harder to do smooth.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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no issues here... I do have the CCD removed, a Supra NA flywheel/clutch setup, gas pedal spring delete and tighten the slope from the cable it self.


you could just do separate actions. brake, then clutch, gas and shift... sounds almost the same

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
That's how I do it now and its lame lol

What's killing me the most is the throttle response. I have to heel toe the gas pedal for what seems like a full second before the engine revs up for a smooth downshift.
 
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