Lexus IS Forum banner

41 - 60 of 81 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
You guys that are seeing these temps are N/A? And not turbo?
Yup, I have a stock motor with mods listed in my signature.

I really wasn't pushing the car too hard, and it was maybe 85f ambient with high humidity and I was over 260f. With a proper driver the car would probably break 300f (or lose oil pressure completely first) without a cooler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
If you're an experienced driver I'd highly recommend an oil cooler!! I just did my first event at COTA this past weekend. Running brand new 5w-30 full synthetic and my oil temps were about as high as I'd go.. I didn't push the car very hard (beginner HPDE driver) and I still broke 260f temps. Oil pressure was good (65psi @ redline) but before I push the car any harder I will need a cooler. External readings are definitely not accurate as even just normal highway driving gives me readings over 220f at like 80f ambient.

As you said, COTA is a high speed track and with summer coming in full swing soon high temps will be hard to avoid.

Good luck. Maybe I'll see you out there some time - it's a fun track!
an oil cooler is on the list for sure, I'm not planning on going full send the first session. I havent been to COTA in a couple years and never in my IS. I'm mostly just looking forward to being on that track in a car that doesnt have death dealing snap oversteer, my elise has tried to kill me a few times with that trick.

I'm not to worried about oil temps lower than 270, I worked with detuned N55 BMW 235IRs for a while, those damn things ran 240 water temp and 310 oil temp and somehow didnt melt. that being said, my engine has almost 240k on it, if it dies, it dies
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
an oil cooler is on the list for sure, I'm not planning on going full send the first session. I havent been to COTA in a couple years and never in my IS. I'm mostly just looking forward to being on that track in a car that doesnt have death dealing snap oversteer, my elise has tried to kill me a few times with that trick.

I'm not to worried about oil temps lower than 270, I worked with detuned N55 BMW 235IRs for a while, those damn things ran 240 water temp and 310 oil temp and somehow didnt melt. that being said, my engine has almost 240k on it, if it dies, it dies
Yeah the IS was a blast on that track. It was very neutral through the S's and high speed turns. Obviously slow down the straight, but hey straight lines are boring anyway.

240 water temp is crazy! I didn't even break 200f.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,270 Posts
If you're an experienced driver I'd highly recommend an oil cooler!! I just did my first event at COTA this past weekend. Running brand new 5w-30 full synthetic and my oil temps were about as high as I'd go.. I didn't push the car very hard (beginner HPDE driver) and I still broke 260f temps.
260F oil temps aren't that bad. I'd worry when you hit 300. My E36M3 would hit 300 on hot days. 200F is too low. 220F is enough to boil off water and fuel contamination in the oil. Even with 300F oil, the water temps were around 190ish.

Track usage wears the oil out 4 times faster than normal driving so, you might want to step up your change interval if you're tracking regularly. I used to change mine every other track weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,033 Posts
I believe he meant 200f water, which is what I see. I also change oil every other track day. accidentally did 3 in 2 weeks last time since i didn't have time but oil levels were still good and the oil wasn't that bad. I'm ready for two more again

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
If you're an experienced driver I'd highly recommend an oil cooler!! I just did my first event at COTA this past weekend. Running brand new 5w-30 full synthetic and my oil temps were about as high as I'd go.. I didn't push the car very hard (beginner HPDE driver) and I still broke 260f temps.
260F oil temps aren't that bad. I'd worry when you hit 300. My E36M3 would hit 300 on hot days. 200F is too low. 220F is enough to boil off water and fuel contamination in the oil. Even with 300F oil, the water temps were around 190ish.

Track usage wears the oil out 4 times faster than normal driving so, you might want to step up your change interval if you're tracking regularly. I used to change mine every other track weekend.
I change mine every 5k on the street, and every 3 or so track days. I don't even count autocross as wear on anything except tires and brake pads/fluid.

I and a couple guys i track with do a big "fluid swap" at the start of every year, brake fluid, engine, trans, clutch hdyro, diff, coolant check and power steering (I'm the only one with hydraulic anymore, damn modern electric systems being service free) we will also do brakes again half way thru the year. Done pretty well so far aside from shearing that spindle, which I have to take some responsibility for.

My car also runs at 195 since I did the head, it was 205 before that. I run about 30% coolant to water with water wetter and have a csf aluminum rad. Fingers crossed the old thing survives COTA on June lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
I change mine every 5k on the street, and every 3 or so track days. I don't even count autocross as wear on anything except tires and brake pads/fluid.

I and a couple guys i track with do a big "fluid swap" at the start of every year, brake fluid, engine, trans, clutch hdyro, diff, coolant check and power steering (I'm the only one with hydraulic anymore, damn modern electric systems being service free) we will also do brakes again half way thru the year. Done pretty well so far aside from shearing that spindle, which I have to take some responsibility for.

My car also runs at 195 since I did the head, it was 205 before that. I run about 30% coolant to water with water wetter and have a csf aluminum rad. Fingers crossed the old thing survives COTA on June lol
What day and group are you running? I'm in the process of piecing together an oil cooling kit now, hoping to have the car ready and sign up for an event mid-June
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
I change mine every 5k on the street, and every 3 or so track days. I don't even count autocross as wear on anything except tires and brake pads/fluid.

I and a couple guys i track with do a big "fluid swap" at the start of every year, brake fluid, engine, trans, clutch hdyro, diff, coolant check and power steering (I'm the only one with hydraulic anymore, damn modern electric systems being service free) we will also do brakes again half way thru the year. Done pretty well so far aside from shearing that spindle, which I have to take some responsibility for.

My car also runs at 195 since I did the head, it was 205 before that. I run about 30% coolant to water with water wetter and have a csf aluminum rad. Fingers crossed the old thing survives COTA on June lol
What day and group are you running? I'm in the process of piecing together an oil cooling kit now, hoping to have the car ready and sign up for an event mid-June
I'll be running with scca the 29th and 30th in the TT run group, we'resharing the event with club race so We can afford it. Our event filled up within 10 minutes of reg opening since space was so limited

Good luck out there, I'm also interested to know what components you're using for the oil cooler, I will eventually need one
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I like the ideal of the volume control on the steering wheel, I just started playing with shifting with those buttons after having my 01 for about 14 years lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
I went r10 too, just waiting to be put in. what road courses have you done? I'll be using rsr rr's 215/45 on 17x8 +28 the rr's run wide, close to 225. how do you like the rt615k+? what other suspension mods have you done? my original jic flt a2 would have been on their 3rd rebuild so I just decided to go feal 441+

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
I've done Motorsport Ranch, Cresson, TX on a bunch of configurations more times than I can count, I've driven COTA in my other car, and I've done Texas motor speedway infield course a few times and a bunch of fun laps on the oval. Theyre rebuilding Eagles Canyon right now and LGmotorsports is supposed to be building another track up north of dallas.

The RT615k+s I really like on track, they suck for autox tho. on track they get to temp pretty fast, and stay consistent lap after lap, its tough to overdrive them, and good god they are cheap. $620 for a set of 255s, and they hold up to the track abuse, dont wear down super fast.

running figs bushings everywhere, Truhart Rear LCAs, Fortune auto 500s with 14k/12k swift springs, a 32mm hotchkis front sway on the stiffest setting, and a stock rear sway bar (with the hotchkis rear bar the rear end was really loose, especially under hard braking)

these cars are a ton of fun on the track, but the stock front brakes are pretty terrible, I cooked both front calipers and rotors a couple years ago, they just arent up to stopping such a heavy car.
I'm surprised to hear about the brakes being a problem, I have a friend that races his car and is still on stock calipers with upgraded rotors, pads and lines (that's it). He has only ever mentioned one failure in a full season of racing.

I'm really liking your build by the way, it's a relief to see someone building one for proper use rather than just looking pretty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,270 Posts
these cars are a ton of fun on the track, but the stock front brakes are pretty terrible, I cooked both front calipers and rotors a couple years ago, they just arent up to stopping such a heavy car.
I didn't want to believe it but this was my experience too. I had carbotech track pads. I think running wider tires than stock might block the air flow for the brake coolers. I was toying with the idea of widening the stock brake ducts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
I went r10 too, just waiting to be put in. what road courses have you done? I'll be using rsr rr's 215/45 on 17x8 +28 the rr's run wide, close to 225. how do you like the rt615k+? what other suspension mods have you done? my original jic flt a2 would have been on their 3rd rebuild so I just decided to go feal 441+

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
I've done Motorsport Ranch, Cresson, TX on a bunch of configurations more times than I can count, I've driven COTA in my other car, and I've done Texas motor speedway infield course a few times and a bunch of fun laps on the oval. Theyre rebuilding Eagles Canyon right now and LGmotorsports is supposed to be building another track up north of dallas.

The RT615k+s I really like on track, they suck for autox tho. on track they get to temp pretty fast, and stay consistent lap after lap, its tough to overdrive them, and good god they are cheap. $620 for a set of 255s, and they hold up to the track abuse, dont wear down super fast.

running figs bushings everywhere, Truhart Rear LCAs, Fortune auto 500s with 14k/12k swift springs, a 32mm hotchkis front sway on the stiffest setting, and a stock rear sway bar (with the hotchkis rear bar the rear end was really loose, especially under hard braking)

these cars are a ton of fun on the track, but the stock front brakes are pretty terrible, I cooked both front calipers and rotors a couple years ago, they just arent up to stopping such a heavy car.
I'm surprised to hear about the brakes being a problem, I have a friend that races his car and is still on stock calipers with upgraded rotors, pads and lines (that's it). He has only ever mentioned one failure in a full season of racing.

I'm really liking your build by the way, it's a relief to see someone building one for proper use rather than just looking pretty.
At motorsport ranch in cresson, tx, there is a corner called rattlesnake, after a decent length hitting ~105mph and braking to about 35mph to make the next 2 corners cooked the hell out of my stock brakes, burnt the high temp coat off the calipers and warped the hell out of the rotors which were cross drilled. They stopped great but couldn't take the heat. Im running a supra tt setup which seems to take heat better (at least at rattlesnake lol) but I've got the figs 330mm race brake kit on order at the moment.

And thanks for the compliments on the car, not a well loved car by racers but such a great platform.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
these cars are a ton of fun on the track, but the stock front brakes are pretty terrible, I cooked both front calipers and rotors a couple years ago, they just arent up to stopping such a heavy car.
I didn't want to believe it but this was my experience too. I had carbotech track pads. I think running wider tires than stock might block the air flow for the brake coolers. I was toying with the idea of widening the stock brake ducts.
I bent the hell out of the air catch on the backing plates to be sure they catch air from under the bumper, otherwise the tire blocks it for sure. 215 tires on a 7 inch wide rim were a decent size in 2002 lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,270 Posts
I only use solid blanks. Some tracks won't let you run non-OEM cross drilled because they tend to crack. Brembo had a note on their drilled rotors for my Honda that said "Not for track use". I didn't warp my rotors and the brakes always worked but the pads wore really fast which is a sign they're running too hot. I've run a bunch of cars on this track so, when I say "wore fast" I mean much faster than on my WRX or BMW.

The stock brakes just didn't feel very good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
555 Posts
I change mine every 5k on the street, and every 3 or so track days. I don't even count autocross as wear on anything except tires and brake pads/fluid.

I and a couple guys i track with do a big "fluid swap" at the start of every year, brake fluid, engine, trans, clutch hdyro, diff, coolant check and power steering (I'm the only one with hydraulic anymore, damn modern electric systems being service free) we will also do brakes again half way thru the year. Done pretty well so far aside from shearing that spindle, which I have to take some responsibility for.

My car also runs at 195 since I did the head, it was 205 before that. I run about 30% coolant to water with water wetter and have a csf aluminum rad. Fingers crossed the old thing survives COTA on June lol
What mods did you do to the head?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
I change mine every 5k on the street, and every 3 or so track days. I don't even count autocross as wear on anything except tires and brake pads/fluid.

I and a couple guys i track with do a big "fluid swap" at the start of every year, brake fluid, engine, trans, clutch hdyro, diff, coolant check and power steering (I'm the only one with hydraulic anymore, damn modern electric systems being service free) we will also do brakes again half way thru the year. Done pretty well so far aside from shearing that spindle, which I have to take some responsibility for.

My car also runs at 195 since I did the head, it was 205 before that. I run about 30% coolant to water with water wetter and have a csf aluminum rad. Fingers crossed the old thing survives COTA on June lol
What mods did you do to the head?
SCCA rules say I can't make any mods to the head, so it was just a stock refreshed head with a not-blown headgasket keeps it a bit cooler. Running 95% coolant and 5% motor oil in the cooling system doesn't do great for heat transfer. Would love some better valve springs tho
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,711 Posts
SCCA rules say I can't make any mods to the head, so it was just a stock refreshed head with a not-blown headgasket keeps it a bit cooler. Running 95% coolant and 5% motor oil in the cooling system doesn't do great for heat transfer. Would love some better valve springs tho
There is stock then with in stock spec. If the larger valves are to service limit and or maybe happen to be undercut. It is still "stock spec". Spring spec should be similar. Sometimes it is a gray area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
SCCA rules say I can't make any mods to the head, so it was just a stock refreshed head with a not-blown headgasket keeps it a bit cooler. Running 95% coolant and 5% motor oil in the cooling system doesn't do great for heat transfer. Would love some better valve springs tho

There is stock then with in stock spec. If the larger valves are to service limit and or maybe happen to be undercut. It is still "stock spec". Spring spec should be similar. Sometimes it is a gray area.
I much more enjoy beating people knowing my car is well within the rules, that being said, I have the sc300 single mass flywheel/clutch swapped into mine and that is way farther into the grey area of the rules. I claim driver safety (dualmass more likely to fail at high revs) and parts availability, my single mass was trashed and a new ones are 1/3 the value of the car vs. $300 for a single mass from lexus
 
41 - 60 of 81 Posts
About this Discussion
80 Replies
23 Participants
wasabiboi
Lexus IS Forum
Community dedicated to Lexus IS Enthusiasts. Come in and enjoy our articles, galleries and information on aftermarket parts for the IS300, IS250, IS350.
Full Forum Listing
Top