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Discussion Starter #101
Yeah its nearly 1:1 to the NZD lol! If it wasn't for the freight messed up from the virus at the moment i would be very tempted to buy more bits for mine from overseas at the moment.

Does the AWD on these cope ok with any difference in the front and rear tyre diameter? Just thinking about a few mates with Subi's moaning about how they had diff whine unless they had almost perfectly matched tyres all over.
If you havn’t read the build the drivetrain isn’t toyota
 

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If you havn’t read the build the drivetrain isn’t toyota
I did read it but admittedly did miss the part about the transfer case being from something else as well, had thought it was from a Gita or Crown. But either way i know some AWD systems are a bit sensitive with tires so had wondered about this one with that much power behind it. Awesome unique build though :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #103
This week i pulled my th400, removed the pump and replaced the stator bushings and the converter bushing in an attempt to stop my converter drain back issue and fix a reasonably bad leak. The new bushes fixed the drain back issue and i found that the o ring on my 4l60 speed sensor was broken and allowing the fluid to leak out when the converter drained back raising the fluid level in the pan. I refilled the trans with iso46 hydraulic fluid to tighten up my converter a few hundred rpm rather than dex 3. I’ll see how it works, it definately feels like it couples quicker up top and has lost about 300rpm stall so it’ll be interesting to see if it struggles to get up on the converter from a stand still.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
This week i sold my evo wheels and have my hoosiers up for sale. I have ordered a set of federal rs-rr for my Rays RE30s for daily driving and a set of Mickey Thompson 26x8.5 pro drag radials to go on my 15” slipstreams. I’ll use the rs-rr on the front for now until i get some small brakes and get another set of slipstream 15s with pro drags all round.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Heres some fitment pics.
Street Set
Volk Racing RE30-18x8.5+30 f&r
Federal RS-RR 235/40/18 f&r
Drag Set
Rota Slipstream- 15x8+40
Mickey Thompson Pro Drag Radial 26x8.5
Rear Camber .5deg 0 toe
Front Camber 1.5deg 0 toe
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EEE8FF32-77D4-4445-AB69-6748DD120CDD.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Today i thought i’d have a go at making a sheet metal drag wing, its half done, more pics to follow later in the week if not tomorrow. So far i’ve done the main plane section and spill plates, i’m yet to affix the wickerbill, fasten it to the boot, finish riveting the spill plates to the plane and them give it s coat of matt black epoxy paint.
I used the stock wing as s template for the curve so i could maintain the curve of the boot etc. i’ll probably find a spare boot lid and just swap boot lids rather than fitting and removing the wing for street use etc.
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Discussion Starter #107
Finished drag wing all painted in matt black vht epoxy paint. My spare boot should be painted gloss black in a week or 2 and i’ll put the race rubber back on with the wing and get s few shots of it in race trim even all the tracks are still closed over here.
I also painted a pair of GS300 17x8+50 in matt black to put a pair of my hoosier 245/45/17 DR2 on for the fronts.
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Discussion Starter #108
I bought a shitty boot and had a mate give it a quick coat of black paint to mount my drag wing to.
 

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i did a double take on the 2nd pic, i saw the dark outline near the bumper and thought you had mounted a chute as well . . . doh no just boots :oops::LOL:

Looks like a good fit, i will be interested to know if it makes much difference on the strip. Looks mean though :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #110
We did a walk around show and tell vid Of my awd IS300 on my mates swampy supra youtube channel. Have a look and give it a like, subscribe and share if you like it. Theres a few pulls on there too.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
I finally had a drivetrain failure, unfortunately my rather expensive torque converter failed and needs repairs, the rest of the transmission and transfer case look fine. Something started making noise After the first 30psi pull On the street, i searched for the source of the noise and couldnt track it down so i decided to wait until it got worse, one 5000rpm brake stall launch and it got worse, fyi it launches very hard even just on RS-RR street tyres. I noticed plenty of glitter in the trans fluid so i stripped the box and didn’t find anything damaged or worn so i sent the converter away to get split and inspected, the verdict was no mechanical failure in the converter but high likelihood that excessive converter pressure deformed and eroded the turbine and impeller fins until the point it started making noise.
Im currently looking at getting the damaged parts replaced and getting it flanged to make it a bolt together converter that i can service myself If i can justify the expense.
 

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Interesting to see the insides, I'm familiar with the theory but not what they actually look like. Some of those fins look pretty damaged (bent, chunks missing, etc.) can it really be repaired?
Excuse the ignorance but I thought the fins needed to be fairly accurate so that the fluid forms a "viscous drag" or connection between both sides?
 

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Discussion Starter #113
By repaired i mean those finned housings will be replaced and it will be put back together. They are fitted to the inside of the housings.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
While my converter was gettingvrepaired i had them put some flanges on it so it is now servicesble by me as it is now a bolt together. I refitted it and tge harmonic/vibration is still there. 😠
Next step is remove the engine snd inspect the thrust bearings and check for another set of broken main caps.
While it’s out i plan to swap my Stock/modded intake for an aftermarket one like the xs power one and make a few changes to it to make it function a bit better. Regardless of what i find when i strip the motor i’ll be doing billet main caps too.
Hopefully the short runner intake will give me another 500rpm of useable powerband. Being stuck with 3.73 final drive, 1:1 top gear, only 26’ tall tyres and the usual torque converter losses i could do with some more rpm to get a bit more speed out of each gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #115
I got the engine out, the thrust besrings were fine, i broke main caps 2-6, only caps 1 and 7 were holding the crank in position, it looks like the caps cracked, bending the crank slightly thus creating the harminic/vibration. My cheap xs power type intake manifold turned up this week too so i’ll put a spare block and head back into my car for mock up of my intake/throttle body while my block and billet main caps are getting machined and see what needs modifying and moving to make everything fit in the same amount of space. All of the caps broke in the usual spot and bent all of the main studs too, so i’ll need new main studs, rod and main bearings and the block and billet caps machined and i should be good to go.
I’ll probably get some 70x6mm ally strap and copy the gasket onto it and holesaw then radius the holes with a router to make bellmouths and add thickness to the mounting face.i’m thinking i’ll drill a hole in the back of the manifold to access the end bolt then tap the hole for the brake booster fitting. My car is rhd so i have a bit more room down that end of the mani as the brake booster is on the exh side. I’ll also be using a 90mm throttle body which requires me to cut off the flange on the mani and rotate and angle the one that suits my throttle body before welding it on.
Hopefully once its all done i’ll be able to run 30-35psi and make peak power closer to 8000rpm to gain me an extra 500rpm in each gear to help out with my top speed seeing i’m stuck with 3.73 gearing and 26’ tall tyres. The short runner intake setup should also drop a bit of midrange torque and move it further up the rev range so theres less load in everything from bottom end to drivetrain.
 

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Discussion Starter #116
I dropped my block at the machine shop to get the billet cap machining done, unfortunately its going to be a few months. In the mean time i have scrounged up some semi shit bits and pieces to put together a “stock” bottom end to use for a few months. It will be gte rods with 10.5:1 ge vvti pistons, a stock crank we had with a damaged keyway i’ll repair with epoxy keyway repair kit, stock main caps and bolts and some used but good condition bearings, i’ll get the ebay intake mani worked out and drive it turned down until i have my billet mains block ready to go in. I’ll also zero out the vvti to drop the midrange cylinder pressure to help the ge pistons last, i’ll probably use a rising boost curve as well and hipefully the short runner intake will gain some useable topend rpm even though i’ll be losing power across the midrange. Hopefully some pics tomorrow.
 

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I missed the last post about the mains. That was a cheap price on the billet ones, though.

unfortunately its going to be a few months.
That’s crazy. Must be the place to go, if they’re that backlogged. It’ll give you time to sort the intake out so that’s good. RealStreet mains seem to be the go-to here in the States, seem to require the last amount of machining. Typically just a line bore, but I’ve heard other brands require more work.

Waiting for pics!
 

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if you want all the salt to be really super obvious
Salt? The only real risk of salt usually down under is sea spray :D

Definitely no snow or ice on Aussie roads that i know of, in NZ you might get some in the south Island but not often.
 
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