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Discussion Starter #41
Ok, i had the diodes in my ecu replaced with some light globes and diodes to allow me to find the short, i chased all through my wiring etc for the short but found nothing, after 3 days in it i traced the short back to the ecu, as it turned out this is what happened. I disconnected the autronic ecu power wire so i could crank the engine to build oil pressure before i started it. The autronic tried to pull its power through the shared sensors etc seeing its a parrallel ecu install and torched the diodes and the circuit board creating a dead short between the etcs power pin and the chassis ground pin. I bought a used ecu and key, put my ecus back to how they were before i started the conversion and disconnected the crank sensor, bought a new battery and cranked it until i had oil pressure then fired it up. Its alive..... unfortunately the 2jz gte etcsi throttle body i bought isnt working so the dbw is in limp mode so thats my next diagnostic task, i also have a premium japan manual throttle convert kit to install but i want the dbw working to control idle before i install the kit as it will be easier to diagnose with the dbw working as factory intended.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
If anyone has any info as to what sensors are required or fuses to check for etcs-i to function correctly that would be very helpful.
 

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If anyone has any info as to what sensors are required or fuses to check for etcs-i to function correctly that would be very helpful.
I think there’s 12 ish wires that run the etcs-i dbw.

So there’s sensors vta1 and vta2 (these are TPS); vpa1 and vpa2 (these are APPS); Clutch + (12V sw) and Clutch - (pwm 230hZ ground), and M+ and M- (dbw stepper control). The vta and vpa are 5V sensors. If you want the Toyota diag sheets, pm me your email and I will send them.

Reference: I put the etcs-i dbw controls to my AEM Infinity.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Do you happen to have a list of conditions that put it into limp mode. Ie failed maf or O2 sensor or similar
 

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Discussion Starter #46
It turns out the 2jz gte etcs-i not working was due to a faulty tps sensor, i took the one off my 1jz throttle body and its working perfectly, now to put the premium japan manual convert kit in the throttle body and find some way to make it control the idle smoothly with my 276/276 cams, i think a 3mm hole in the throttle plate and some adjustment of the idle screws and tps sensors should work to raise the idle to 1000rpm. I use my autronic to control idle with a delta table and closed loop fuelling.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I installed the premium japan etcs kit, made some adjustments to the idle screw and tps sensor, and a few changes in my autronic ecu to make it idle smooth. i currently have the stock ecu in control of my 276 cams, it starts and idles fine now, there is pretty much no cam lope to speak of, perfect for my sleeper look. It moves in and out of the shed under its own power now too, i’ll give it it’s first street drive tomorrow.
I am using the stock crown awd front coilovers but unfortunately they are longer so the front ride height looked like a 1970s gasser. I am unable to modify my bc coilovers to work and the awd front spring is tapered so i couldn’t even cut it, then i noticed my IS300 lowered rears look similar to the awd fronts.... success, is300 rears in the front of my awd is300.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Today i looked at my front wheel alignment and checking the range of adjustment to see if i would be able to get it close to the alignment settings for my application. Even with my camber adjusted to full positive i could see it was still at least a few degrees negative, i remembered hearing about stance guys using jzx upper arms to add camber so figured i should compare my is300 arms to jzs179 arms, when i fitted the subframe i used the jzs arms which are 10mm shorter and the ball joint was central rather than slightly rearward, this limits my available + camber and also reduces castor so i installed the stock is300 upper arms, this has brought me much closer to ideal but its just eyeballing it so far until i get to the alignment shop next week.
My tune is also way off as expected going from short duration 8.5mm lift cams to 276 10.3mm lift cams.
Unfortunately i need to get to the alignment before i can drive it at speed down the highway to clean up the tune, currently the plan is to clean up the tune at light throttle while stationary and load it against the converter to get some higher load zones in the ballpark then limp it to the alignment shop early in the morning before the traffic picks up.
Heres a pic, ive dropped the rear another 10mm to level it out and will remove the stickers for full sleeper effect. I should note it hasnt been washed in a year while its been parked up waiting on the halfcut then getting converted.
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
I got a quick pic of it while i was giving it a quick recon run.
a few months ago i bought a set of pretty rough Team Impul Racing NS/GT2 lightweight race wheels. 18x8+32 and 18x9+38, i got a mate to spray them gloss black and i’ll be putting the brushed stainless finish center caps in with some reproduction decals in matt black and red. Im undecided if i’ll keep them or sell them on. I have some staggered tyre sizes worked out that have almost identical rolling diameters so should work with my awd. 235/40/18 and 265/35/18.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Collected my wheels today, decals and wheel alignment tomorrow then i can put some km on it then get it back on the hoist and inspect everything for any issues. I’ll also be getting the T51r mod done to my 4202 and i have to work out the best orientation for my wastegate dump and make it so i can start working on some boost zones in the tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Yeah, its gone mad, ive got a few things to do over the next week or 2 to have it run in, 1320 has hit me up for a few vids, at this point there will be a dyno pull or 2 during tuning, maybe a few races from roll racing, and a highway pull or 2 and maybe a couple of transbrake launches is she lasts the beatings we have planned. All of this is a few weeks away at the monent though, i need to organise time off work as the dyno is 500km away.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I was a little concerned that all the custom work in the front end and the lowering would make a good drag oriented wheel alignment impossible but as it turns out all of my work was spot on.
I got my rear alignment set to zero camber and zero toe (thanks to some toe arms and a camber kit) and my front has 8 degrees of castor thanks to the combination of crown subframe with is300 upper arms, 1.25deg camber and zero toe.
This setting should allow the rearend to be stiffened and keep a flat contact patch on launch and when the front lifts a touch the front neg camber should move to near zero giving the front tyres a flat contact patch also.
Ive given it about 8-10psi boost so far and where it used to roast the tyres on the 1-2 shift when it was rwd it just hooks and goes, i cant wait to try and get 30psi of boost down at 40kmh and see how it likes that.
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
I was all set to hit the dyno sunday but unfortunately Australia Post lost my turbo compressor cover that is getting a 51r mod. It turned up after we logged an investigation, its completed and on its way back to me but wont be here until monday, unfortunately my holidays have come to an end and i’ve missed my window to take it 500km to the dyno. My next opportunity wont be for 3 weeks or so. ☹
Wheels have tyres on them now, just some federals for street duties. 235/40/18 on the 18x8+32 and 265/35/18 on the 18x9+38, the roll out is .39% different which is well within the tolerance for the awd and the abs/vsc.
Wheels are Team Impul Racing NS GTII lightweight Race Wheels. The 18x9 is 8kg (17lbs). They used to be white, i had them soda blasted and sprayed gloss black and stripped the blue paint off the center caps to reveal a spun stainless finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Wheels are on, offsets, sizes and alignment settings give perfect fitment for my street and drag application. No obvious mexican offsets with stretch tyres or mega camber, just a flat contact patch on the road with tread inside the guard line and a square tyre shoulder to protect the wheels fron stone chips etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Ive put over 1000km on it so far and the awd conversion is working perfectly, on my road tune 18psi its mental, ive never been able to put more than about 10psi of boost down under 100km/h rwd, now it just comes on boost, pins the tach at 6000rpm and gets down the road until road speed catches up to rpm, as rpm approaches 7000 it starts spinning front tyres but the factory trac touched the brakes on the spinning wheel and gets everything under control. Injector flow calcs estimate about 460awhp at 6000rpm, as i rev it closer to 8000 it makes more but i didnt log any inj duty on that pull. On my hoosiers drag radials and 30psi its going to be very quick, my dyno tune is booked for sunday this weekend so providing it doesnt have a failure it should be ready to race. Mt T51r comp cover mod came back and sounds great.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I had some bad luck a couple of weeks ago, i gave it a mild road tune to get it driveable before it went on the dyno, it felt pretty strong, got it on the dyno and it was rich as expected as thats what i set up in my road tune, it went on the dyno and put down 437awkw (590awhp) on gate pressure (18psi). Given its a dyno dynamics (reads about 10-15% lower than a dynojet) and had the drivetrain loss of the awd, th400 and 6000rpm converter.
It developed a slight miss, we changed the plugs, the ones that came out looked fine except the one that had the miss was a touch darker. Put new plugs in and the miss cleared up, unfortunately 3 pulls later it melted cylinder 3, i suspect boiled fuel in the rail, it was ridiculously hot that day, i havnt disassembled it yet as i havnt had time but will be this weekend so i should know more by then. The data logs all look fine and there is nothing to indicate an issue, afr was 11.0, timing only 12-15 deg, boost 18psi, iat 40degC, coolant temp 89degC.
If i had egt probes i would have caught it in time.
I’ll replace pistons and whatever else is damaged, add egt probes to my manifold and im going to do a set of billet main caps while it’s out, it rolled off near 600awhp easily and assuming 150hp drivetrain loss through the awd and th400 thats getting up there by the time i add in another 10-15psi boost.
The awd setup is performing brilliantly, it just comes up onto the converter nearly immediately, pins the tacho at 6200rpm with full boost and holds it until roadspeed catches up, rev’s out to 8000 then pick another gear. Without the stock trac on it will spin the fronts or rears depending on the surface, with the trac on it touches the brakes on the spinning wheel and brings it back under control quickly and smoothly.
 

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Such a beast with those numbers and AWD, it´s a really uniqe car you hav built. I´m sorry to hear about the engine mishaps and I hope you get it sorted out and repaired quickly
 
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