Lexus IS Forum banner

21 - 40 of 78 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
Man this thing is a monster! I see you went with a COP setup, too. What coilpacks? I went with 1NZ yota coils from a junkyard yaris.

So this 2jz block - it’s a special Crown block that has an offset for the front diff? Or is it just a special upper/lower oil pan? I’m guessing your in OZ or NZ? I saw some parts from Golebys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I bought a set of g37 (same as R35) coils on ebay from USA and made the rest and used some suitable plug boots.
The awd blocks have the oil pickup bolt directly to the oil pump at the front of the engine as the usual pickup on a jz would interfere with the diff tube in the awd pan.
First pic is normal jz pan setup note where the oil pickup bolts to and feeds the oil pump via a gallery in the block, the awd block does not have provision for that in the block casting
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
That makes sense about the pick up tube being in the way of the diff tube. I had no idea how these awd cars managed room for a diff where the motor is already located. I google some pics of gtr’s and they were how you described. Pretty bad ass how there’s a tube cast into the upper oil pan for the axle to pass through! We never get the cool cars here in the states. Really a shame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Cheap BBK.... well big rotor anyway.
You get the benefits of larger rotor mass and diameter, its a good street upgrade although a better caliper would be better for track work.
It is basically a cheap way to get Supra 323mm Rotors onto the front of your IS300 without havibg to buy those high priced replacement caliper brackets.
I noticed the stock caliper brackets have the mounting bolt holes offset, as it turns out if you swap the brackets to the other side of the car the top bolt hole lines up and positions the pad in exactly the right place on a supra rotor, a 12mm thick round spacer and oval shaped bracket with bolt hole centers at 30mm is all thats needed to make it all fit and work. I should emphasize to use grade 8.8 or higher fasteners and have the small bracket made out of high strength steel. All up this BBK setup cost me under $20 in hardware and set of supra rotors and new pads, 18 inch wheels are needed although some 17s fit. Best of all you dont need to open the hydraulic system, just slide out the slider pins and hang the caliper out of the way, swap the brackets from left to right side of the car, work out your spacers and fasteners, put it all back together with red loctite on the new nuts and bolts,
Warning- this is your braking system, be smart, check and double check everything, a fuck up here could cost the lives of you and others. Ive been using mine for over a year now with no issues.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Yesterday i fabricated the transfer case and front prop shaft humps in the floor to make room for the front drive hardware. When i get home next werk i’ll wire wheel the surface rust off the panel steel, trim the floor to suit and stitch weld it inside and out, seam seal it, spray on some sound deadener and hit it with some paint.
Jobs i have left before first start:
Fabricate screamer dump tube
Connect up power steering and trans cooler hoses
Wire up the Autronic ECU to control VVTI
Install my dbw throttle convert kit
Shorten one of my intercooler pipes 40mm
Add fluids
Charge battery
Install front prop shaft when the shop finishes it.
After all that i have to work out how to make the passenger side seat fit back in and look stock, i think i’ll make up a new seat mount and put it in a fixed position now it’s travel is reduced by 100mm and the factory front right side seat mount is no longer suitable.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,868 Posts
Yesterday i fabricated the transfer case and front prop shaft humps in the floor to make room for the front drive hardware. When i get home next werk i’ll wire wheel the surface rust off the panel steel, trim the floor to suit and stitch weld it inside and out, seam seal it, spray on some sound deadener and hit it with some paint.
Jobs i have left before first start:
Fabricate screamer dump tube
Connect up power steering and trans cooler hoses
Wire up the Autronic ECU to control VVTI
Install my dbw throttle convert kit
Shorten one of my intercooler pipes 40mm
Add fluids
Charge battery
Install front prop shaft when the shop finishes it.
After all that i have to work out how to make the passenger side seat fit back in and look stock, i think i’ll make up a new seat mount and put it in a fixed position now it’s travel is reduced by 100mm and the factory front right side seat mount is no longer suitable.
Sent you a PM. Have not heard back. Are you getting them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
All the information i have for the brake upgrade on hand is in here, i would have to disassemble my car to get the info you asked for, i recommend you disassemble your car and check it for the bolt sizes and make the spacers you require accordingly, you could use a stack of washers to get the thickness you require then have it laser cut out of steel the correct thickness. That is what i did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Wicked build, man - I'm just sitting here in awe at all the things you're doing with this car that I'd never be brave enough to even think about. Gonna be a completely different beast when it's all done!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
In all honesty i wanted an R32 GTR to build but the gtr tax on them over here is ridiculous so i built my own toyota version and best of all i get to use a 2jz instead of an unreliable RB pos.
I also have a dry shot nitrous kit to get it onto boost instantly if required.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Front prop shaft will be here in a few days(front cv to suit toyota front diff and rear cv to suit the territory transfer case flange). i’ll have Most of the loose ends tied up this set of days off work. Depending on weather i may be doing my first start this coming tuesday if not the following weekend.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Floor is complete, its final assembly time, i ran out of time this round of days off but next block she’ll be ready for first start.
Jobs left include extend exhaust, shorten intercooler pipe, repair a few wires and run an extra for vvti, make a couple of spacers for the center bearing, make a wastegate dump tube and add all the fluids.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
I got everything done except the cooler pipe and exhaust, added all the fluids and went to start it and it fried my lexus ecu etcs power supply circuit, im unsure if it is caused by the new used 2jz etcs-i throttle body or something else thats changed over the last year so i am sorting through the wiring and either fixing my ecu or using the one out of the half cut, i need to rectify the cause before i plug the new ecu in so i dont end up with 2 dead ecus.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
What part of the etcs circuit burnt up? The dbw motor driver +\- or the electric clutch? It’s a small bump compared to all the fab you’ve done, but still sucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
I dont have access to an ecu circuit diagram so i am unsure, it is blowing the etcs fuse so i have some continuity/light bulb tests to do on the fuse box and ecu when i get home so i can track the issue. I suspect its drawing excessive current through that circuit rather than being a short to ground, i am currently working away so i wont be able to test anything for a week or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
The car is mechanically finished with exception to the interior reinstalled and ecu issue, i traced down my wiring and tested for shorts etc and found nothing, unfortunately as soon as i touched the terminals to the battery it fried the diodes in the ecu and blew the etcs fuse instantly, atm i’m pretty stumped as i havnt changed anything electrically. The plan currently is to install light globes instead of diodes and use that as a test tool and start unplugging things and watch the condition of the light until i find the issue, correct it and resolder some new diodes in. Its doing my head in. 😕
 

Attachments

21 - 40 of 78 Posts
Top