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Discussion Starter #82
Been busy working out of town the last few weeks but I managed to make the engine mount fixtures. I'm modifying the factory Camaro aluminum mounts for my car.

 

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Discussion Starter #84

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Good stuff, good seeing progress on the build again. I've really been considering going Turbo 5.3 in mine. I got my GTE running in march, just now going single turbo, not up and running yet and I already kinda want to switch. haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Good stuff, good seeing progress on the build again. I've really been considering going Turbo 5.3 in mine. I got my GTE running in march, just now going single turbo, not up and running yet and I already kinda want to switch. haha.
I know there will be times that I miss the 2J. For me there's some negative perception with an LS swap. I hate the thought of someone hearing the rumble of a V8 and having the attitude "Well, no wonder it's fast." I've always loved a good sleeper.
 

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I know there will be times that I miss the 2J. For me there's some negative perception with an LS swap. I hate the thought of someone hearing the rumble of a V8 and having the attitude "Well, no wonder it's fast." I've always loved a good sleeper.
I just don't get all the hate people have associated with the LS. It's a super efficient and cost effective platform to build and it fits so well in most cars. Anyways, keep it going man!
 

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Discussion Starter #88
After working 21 days in a row I finally took some time off last week. Most of the time was spent with the wife and kids but I managed a few hours on the car.

I am chipping away at the wiring and ecu placement. I removed the white plastic liner in the factory ecu box.



Then I cut out this middle section in order to clear the LS3 ecu.



I mounted the ecu fairly high in the box which made it easier to bolt in but might not be the best location. If it was a little lower it would gain some space between the lid and the plugs/wiring.



Now that the ecu is mounted I can really dig in to cleaning up the harness.

 

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Discussion Starter #89
I am pretty much done with the engine side of the harness. Started planning out all the body connections last night. Not exactly sure on the Serial data. On the LS3 ecu there are two Serial Data wires, one is a positive and the other negative. On Matt's harness it calls for just one. I am guessing it's just the positive one but need to research some more.

Been working on the new intake using some random 4" aluminum bends(1 x 90 degree and 1 x 15 degree) and a Spectre 6" Filter with 4" velocity stack. I was not prepared to test fit the hood last night so that is still a possible issue.



 
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I don't think you'll miss the 2j. The low end torque makes these engines really nice to daily drive. You probably want boost eventually when that supercharged Mustang pulls on you again though haha.

The best value would be a cam and spring/retainer set with long tubes. You don't really need an oil pump. If you mill the heads you'll probably have to buy a new set if you end up boosting it later on. You might be able to find some Dedicated headers for about $500-600 used somewhere. I had to sell mine when I went turbo, they worked really well and I didn't have to fool with making a set that went around that damn steering shaft.

I assume most of the people that hate on LS swaps don't own a car worth anything. It's a good swap lol
 

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Discussion Starter #91
I don't think you'll miss the 2j. The low end torque makes these engines really nice to daily drive. You probably want boost eventually when that supercharged Mustang pulls on you again though haha.

The best value would be a cam and spring/retainer set with long tubes. You don't really need an oil pump. If you mill the heads you'll probably have to buy a new set if you end up boosting it later on. You might be able to find some Dedicated headers for about $500-600 used somewhere. I had to sell mine when I went turbo, they worked really well and I didn't have to fool with making a set that went around that damn steering shaft.

I assume most of the people that hate on LS swaps don't own a car worth anything. It's a good swap lol
I was already looking at Whipple, Magnusson and even LSA blowers. I hate to even think that way since this will be my daily and get driven 25K miles a year. That's way out of budget anyway.

I get to drive one of our shop cars, a pro-touring '71 Camaro with a 540whp LS7 & T56. That car is fun and all but I get bored with the power almost immediately. I have the most fun in that car rev matching on downshifts because it barks something fierce. That car ran 123 mph in the 1/4 at LSfest West with nearly 5000 ft altitude density so it's certainly no slouch.

My goal is 500whp on 91 and 520+ on E85 so mid length 1.75" headers aren't going to cut it. That and I am not exactly happy with DMS customer service so I am not likely to spend money there again. I've left two messages and three e-mails over the last few weeks and nothing. I am ready to send back the jumper harness and just wire the thing myself.

I have tried 4 different sets of 1.875" full length headers that we had around the shop. They've all had their own set of specific issues. One set fit pretty damn good but the angle was terrible. Another set had a good angle but were too wide at the collector. Things like that. As long as I can find a set that is close I don't mind reworking a couple tubes to clear the steering shaft.

This car will see road course action from time to time so oiling is a concern. I doubt I would ever run the Roval at Fontana for fear of killing the engine in turn one.
 

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My goal is 500whp on 91 and 520+ on E85 so mid length 1.75" headers aren't going to cut it. That and I am not exactly happy with DMS customer service so I am not likely to spend money there again. I've left two messages and three e-mails over the last few weeks and nothing. I am ready to send back the jumper harness and just wire the thing myself.
I'm nearly certain I responded to your email this morning (found 1 email in my spam after searching for something else). I have 3 full time employee's answering the phones and all the voicemails are emailed directly to me. I have no voicemails about LS swap components. Although no other employee's can answer major technical questions about Lexus swap stuff. It makes up about 0.5% of our yearly sales so they don't get a lot of practice.

[email protected] is my direct contact
 

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Discussion Starter #93
I'm nearly certain I responded to your email this morning (found 1 email in my spam after searching for something else). I have 3 full time employee's answering the phones and all the voicemails are emailed directly to me. I have no voicemails about LS swap components. Although no other employee's can answer major technical questions about Lexus swap stuff. It makes up about 0.5% of our yearly sales so they don't get a lot of practice.

[email protected] is my direct contact
That was me. I left a message before pulling the trigger and another after. I realize this is supposed to be a universal type harness but I am beginning to think that any of the CAN Bus equipped ECUs won't apply. At least not for OBD. I thought I had tracked down all the Lexus OBD pinouts but I just checked and there are discrepancies on my car. Was the harness designed to keep the rest of the Lexus ECU in play or completely removed?

OBD pinout from this thread..... http://my.is/forums/f103/obd-port-pinout-diagram-501465/

"4-white/black-CG chassis ground *My car matches*
5-brown-SG signal ECU ground *My car matches*
6-black/yellow-A/B(airbag system) *My wire is Black/Green*
7-white-SIL *My car matches*
14-white/blue-TS(skid control) *My car matches*
16-black-Tach *My wire is Mauve*
22(15)-light green-WFSE" *My car matches*

Then I have two extra pins not listed above. Considering there is no 12v source listed above Pin 13 makes sense. However, a 3rd ground on the OBD port is uncommon.
9 - Black
13 - Red

I tried to remove pin 7 tonight and all but destroyed the pin trying to get it out. I released the lock and the pin moved back about an 1/8" and then just stopped. I just left it because I had lost my patience and was about to go agro on it and ruin the whole damn plug. I'm pretty much ready to just cut the connector completely out and just wire up a Camaro plug because it sounds easier than fooling with removing the pins from the Lexus plug.

The LS3 ecu requires the following.
4 - Ground(Pin # 13 (circuit 1050)on the J1 connector)
5 - Ground (Pin # 13 (circuit 1851)on the J1 connector)
6 - Can Bus + (Pin # 28 on the J1 connector)
14 - Can Bus - (Pin # 27 on the J1 connector)
16 - 12V constant (Pin # 20 on the J1 connector)

How did you wire up your LS3 OBD with CAN bus?
 

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The flying lead harness was designed to replace/remove the Lexus ECM, there's no need for it now. The best way to think about this swap is that the engine and chassis work together but as two separate systems. You cannot connect the canbus systems. The best advice is to make the obd-ii connector resemble that of the engine/harness you used to perform the swap. You can even add it as a separate connector and let the Lexus connector remain.

I've swapped a lot of cars over the last 8-9 years but I've always used the 01-02 F-body engine/harness. They seem to work the best with the year models being nearly the same. The newer engine control systems will work too but you will need to treat them as a stand alone system as mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
I'm kind of stalled on the wiring until I get some time to visit my buddy for a few pigtails and the flex fuel sensor.

Had our lead R&D guy draw up and cut out some firewall plates for the Wilwood masters. I just counter sunk some flat head bolts and welded them in place. The clutch one still needs to be trimmed around the edge. I will mess around with pedal ratio tonight.





 
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Discussion Starter #96
I pulled the heads off and tore them down for some upgrades. Factory 821 heads CNC ported, shave a "few" thou off, springs, retainers, pushrods, lifters, bronze rockers busings, 3 bolt cam, adjustable timing chain & melling oil pump.

Loaded up in the Wife's Denali.











I also made a change to the brake pedal ratio. Stock is 3.5:1 so I moved the push rod connection point up 1.125" making the ratio real close to 5:1. I'm hopeful this combined with a 1" bore master the pedal feel won't be mushy. I've got a 15/16" Wilwood master on standby if need be.



I had to move the master up on the firewall an 1.125" to match. I went ahead and made a flex fuel sensor mount while I was in there. The firewall had to be clearanced roughly .25".

 
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Discussion Starter #97
I am glutton for punishment apparently. The old L-Tuned bumper has seen better days. I've had this Duraflex bumper a couple years now just never took the time to make it fit. Some trimming under and around the headlights was required.





I also removed the front suspension. I took everything to work and I am hopeful I can make some of our bushings work/fit.

Sent the 821 heads to Mission Critical for CNC porting.





My Buddy Fred @ HPS Machine is helping with the machine work. He showed me how to run the valves. He let me practice on a trashed valve first.



I've got an external oil cooler coming so I figured it would be good to upgrade the pump.



Fred set up the mill and I trimmed .030" off the deck. Compression should be right at 11.0:1 now.



Picked up the lifters last week. I don't have a pic but I also installed the bronze bushing trunion kit.



Oil pump is installed, front cover is in place and a truck oil pan is mounted. The truck pan is for dyno use only.



With the engine and suspension currently at work I am limited in progress at home with the car. I've been wanting to change the sub box for some time now. The existing box is narrow and deep and takes up useful trunk space. Not to mention the sub faces rearward and is non ported. This new box fits the car much better and is nearly 6" more shallow but double the width. It nestles in real tight against the back seat and places a single 12" right at the rear armrest opening.

 
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Discussion Starter #98
Been a while since an update.

The engine is back together and ready for some dyno time & tuning.





I called my buddy at Holley and grabbed some valve covers.



Before with some home made coil brackets and stock valve covers.



After



I also picked up a shifter finally. This one was a factory Hurst deal so was roughly 22% shorter than stock. It was still too long of throw and mushy so I pulled it apart, removed the rubber insulator and moved the pivot point 3/16", making it closer to 40% reduction and much more positive.



I had a piece of stainless 1.75" bar so I made a new knob. Metal knobs are hot as hell on sunny days so I'll likely have the wife sew up a small cloth condom for it.

 

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Discussion Starter #99
We've been racing side by side with Centerforce & their customers for 10 years now. It's about time one of us run their stuff. I went with their steel flywheel (18 lbs) to keep some drivability. I also chose the single disc and their hydraulic TOB to replace the troublesome stock TOB.

 

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Discussion Starter #100
I've been spending time here and there the last few weeks making pulls on the LS3. HPS Machine had ordered a dyno harness for the E38 ecu but it was going to be a while so I called up FiTech. They sent over their LS kit including their sheet metal intake manifold. I was thoroughly impressed with how easy the hook up and start was. Within minutes it had not only learned idle, part throttle but also WOT. It seemed that with each pull it was getting smarter. The A/F's were a little off below 4500 rpm because we were running open header. The ecu was seeing a lean condition so it was dumping fuel trying to compensate. I had to wait a couple days for the v-bands to arrive so we could install the exhaust extensions. Once installed the ecu instantly began relearning. Within a couple pulls the graph looked much better.

This graph is before the extensions. I have yet to redyno the stock intake manifold with the extension but I expect big gains down low.

Red = stock LS3 manifold - Blue = Fitech short runner manifold.


When we redyno'd the Fitech manifold with proper A/F's we picked up 50lb ft between 3500 & 4000. So, IMO, the FiTech manifold is a pretty good option even for a stock stroke deal like this. On the flip side, I began porting the LS3 manifold yesterday with hopes to move the power to the right a little bit without sacrificing bottom end. HPS also has a Fast 102 manifold that we will test soon. I wasn't too keen on this test since I could never afford one but if it makes power everywhere it might be something worth saving up for.

Stock LS3 manifold


FiTech manifold
 
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