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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title says my motor will not crank and has no spark. All grounds have been checked and and wiring seems to be fine. The crank positioning sensor and ignitor have just been replaced. I'm running a FFIM and aftermarket tb, BUT we have the stock tb still wired up and relocated in the trunk. When testing to voltage or whatever the ecu opens the ground with the ignition on. I have an AEM standalone in the garage that will go on, but we wanted to make sure the car would start without it first. Do we need to go ahead and install it? Also, I hooked up my code reader and got the following codes,

P0120 - TP Position Sensor/Switch ‘‘A’’ Circuit Malfunction
P0335 - CKP Sensor ‘‘A’’ Circuit Malfunction
P0340 (2) - CMP Circuit Malfunction
P1120 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1656 - OCV Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)

Also, as the title states, how do you reset the immobilizer? I've searched and searched and searched some more and all I'm coming up with is how to program a key. We are not certain that this is what's causing the car not to start but this will at least let us cross off as a potential cause if that doesn't fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
also had 4 incomplete monitors as well

Catalyst
EVAP
o2 Sensor
o2 Heater
 

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The codes mean that you did not do the wiring for the TB to the trunk properly.

If the car does not crank (meaning it does not turn over) then how do you know you do not have spark??

Even if you immobilizer for some reason locked you out, you will still be able to crank the car.

Check your starter system.
 

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Both crank and cam position sensors are missing their signal too? Holy crap man. How badly is your car mangled now?

CKP = CranK Position
CMP = CaM Position
 

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UH OHH looks like someone wont get his car finished before i do :p good luck, check all your wires again? you might have left one snipped by accident... you never know.
 

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I think some definitions need to be made.

Lets assume:

motor cranking - Starter is operating, turning the motor.

turning over - Engine actually fires up, you let go of the key, starter ceases to operate.

This is how I've always understood it. The motor will run (crank or idle) without the Cam sensor. I know, I've pulled it. The motor will crank, but will NOT turn over without the crank sensor, or the immobilizer locking you out.

If you replaced the crank sensor, and are still getting a crank sensor code, you're wiring is screwed. There's no doubt about that. Good luck, I had a feeling this was going to happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thats the way Ive always understood it as well Nick. Based on my countless searching on this site the if the Immobilizer is tripped then it wont allow spark for the motor to crank. does anyone know how to reset it?
 

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Security light (blinking led) goes off when the key is turned to "on"

Starter turns the motor over.

Fuel pump runs and delivers fuel to the regulator and rail.

New ignitor with proper continuity to each coil and to the ecu.

There is proper continuity between the crank and cam shaft position sensor

Crank pos sensor is new

There is proper continuity between the tps and accel sensor for the stock tb in the trunk

The MAF, TP, and accel pos sensor all have proper 5v ref signal

There is a measureable signal coming from the crank and cam pos sensor (measureable frequency)

All the grounds to the ecu measure zero ohms to ground (from pinout)

I couldnt find a tach output. Wires trace out fine but there is no output directly at the ecu. Is this a variable voltage signal or pulses??

The "sensor ground" has continuity for all the required sensors. It also shows zero ohms to ground when the key is OFF but not when the ignition is on. this part confuses me. Not sure how this should look but this is not intuitive.

No Spark.

Don't think the injectors are getting a signal but I haven't paid much attention as the spark has done a good job of distracting me.
 

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drill the head and put a distributor on there and you'll be good! lol

the tach signal is a pulse frequency.

allen, do you need a "competent" electrician to help? lol.. jk bro. i love you zack!

but seriously, give joe a call at my shop.. its too hard relaying info back and forth.
 

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drill the head and put a distributor on there and you'll be good! lol

the tach signal is a pulse frequency.

allen, do you need a "competent" electrician to help? lol.. jk bro. i love you zack!

but seriously, give joe a call at my shop.. its too hard relaying info back and forth.
Thanks for the help today. I think I've at least got a path forward.... and I'm the only "electrician" I've met who regularly uses a hammer...
 

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Thanks for the help today. I think I've at least got a path forward.... and I'm the only "electrician" I've met who regularly uses a hammer...
well at least you have one of the tools that are necessary... now you just need to get some duct tape and zip ties and you'll be set!

let me know if you have any more questions... we'll do our best to help! :D
 
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