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Discussion Starter #1
looking to swap out stock speakers and add an amp- i'd like clarify and a bit of bump without adding a sub (don't want the extra weight in this car)

i was thinking of 2 6.5" component systems in the stock location, and run a 4 channel-

i was considering Hifonics 6.5" Zeus components and a 440x4 amp

also looking at Kicker, Precision Power and possibly JL products. MBQuarts, Focal and Boston are a bit out of my range at the moment (trying to buy a house).

i'd like some bass, but w/o a sub, i think i'm SOL.

would 2 component systems be best? 6.5" up front, 6x9's in the back? currently have Alpine co-ax's in the front, 6x9 in the back, but no bass....would a decent amp fix that?

thanks.
 

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let me tell you this..... i have had NUMEROUS sound systems and around 6 setups in the IS300 alone.

Getting components will make your system louder, but you will defeat alot of the bass as they are crossed over at a much higher point than the stock system. THe stock system is allowing low frequencies to the rear 6x9's.

If you run low frequencies to your comps and decent power, you will blow them, garanteed!

running a freeair sub wouldnt be that heavy. Run an IDmax 10 in your ski pass and you will have all the bass you need with minimal weight.

I run Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 silks in the front powered by my soundstream amp, pushing 200 watts RMS to each side. Running Boston pro-midbasses in the rear. There is NO low end bass at all. Subs are needed if you go component. With that said, i have 2 diamond subs. I removed my spare, and with the custom box, my trunk is roughly 15-25 pounds heavier than stock. MINIMAL weight adding for the system i run.

Some food for thought.
 

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if you want incredibly clear vocals and highs, id go with beyma speakers. they sound quality is amazing...id put them there with focal.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Malekreza11 said:
let me tell you this..... i have had NUMEROUS sound systems and around 6 setups in the IS300 alone.

Getting components will make your system louder, but you will defeat alot of the bass as they are crossed over at a much higher point than the stock system. THe stock system is allowing low frequencies to the rear 6x9's.

If you run low frequencies to your comps and decent power, you will blow them, garanteed!

running a freeair sub wouldnt be that heavy. Run an IDmax 10 in your ski pass and you will have all the bass you need with minimal weight.

I run Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 silks in the front powered by my soundstream amp, pushing 200 watts RMS to each side. Running Boston pro-midbasses in the rear. There is NO low end bass at all. Subs are needed if you go component. With that said, i have 2 diamond subs. I removed my spare, and with the custom box, my trunk is roughly 15-25 pounds heavier than stock. MINIMAL weight adding for the system i run.

Some food for thought.
PPI had some light weight drivers at one point- i had considered *possibly* adding one of those if i could still find them- IDMax eh? - i'd really like to avoid it though.

i've got a hifonics atlas 12" and a Zeus XX amp (1200 rms) laying around for one of my projects- waaaayyy too much weight though for a 200 hp car.

thanks for the useful info.
 

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Malekreza11 said:
Getting components will make your system louder, but you will defeat alot of the bass as they are crossed over at a much higher point than the stock system. THe stock system is allowing low frequencies to the rear 6x9's.
I am running 150W RMS to each side of my Image Dynamics CXS 62s and they really do a lot of work down low. The midbasses produce extremely punchy mid-bass and I really do think that they produce actual bass frequencies (ie. those below what you'd consider "mid-bass"). Obviously not like what you'd get with a lot of power to big subs, but they do produce bass frequencies. I wish I could measure the frequencies being emitted because I'm very curious.

Malekreza11 said:
If you run low frequencies to your comps and decent power, you will blow them, garanteed!
Now this is what I need to look into. I should have realized this myself.

My entire set-up consists of a single amp and the single set of components, and they are being fed the raw soundwave from my computer's soundcard. If this is an issue I can easily add a software high-pass filter, make my own high-pass filter (analog) with inductors and capacitors or with op-amps and capacitors (there are other ways but I know how to make these - although I'm not sure how this will sound). I think my Diamond Audio amp will let me do this as well, and it will probably sound pretty good.

But do I really need to do this? What frequency should I cut off at?

Malekreza11 said:
running a freeair sub wouldnt be that heavy. Run an IDmax 10 in your ski pass and you will have all the bass you need with minimal weight.

I run Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 silks in the front powered by my soundstream amp, pushing 200 watts RMS to each side. Running Boston pro-midbasses in the rear. There is NO low end bass at all. Subs are needed if you go component. With that said, i have 2 diamond subs. I removed my spare, and with the custom box, my trunk is roughly 15-25 pounds heavier than stock. MINIMAL weight adding for the system i run.

Some food for thought.
You've got me thinking about running a sub in the ski pass. I'm not concerned about weight so much as trunk space. Here's a picture of my trunk right now (not completely finished):



I don't think it would work without re-doing everything (not an incredibly huge deal), but it gives me something to think about.

How does free-air compare to sealed? Obviously sealed will sound better, but how huge of a difference are we talking about?
 

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150 to the ID's is a decent amount of power. THey should be happy with 150 RMS.

Your diamond D5 amp has built in crossovers, so use those, dont bother with all that stuff you said, it will be a waste of time.

I crossed over my components at 80hz, and my amps have 12db octave crossovers, so the dropoff is not as aggressive as a 24db crossover.

I also have a audiocontrol 13band EQ for my components which allows me to cut the obtrusive frequencies and boost the lacking midbass. Unfortunately the IS300 suffers alot from soundwave cancellation.

I do agree that the comps produce some low bass, but not enough. As for mids, its very punchy.
 

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Take a look at the eD EU-700. It's a 7" midbass, but more like a subwoofer. I haven't gotten mine installed yet, but the plan is to put them in the rear deck in the stock 6x9 locations.

I'm figuring it will be more than sufficient for my needs while not significantly affecting the weight.
 

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damn....all you guys talking about weighing down your car with one 10" sub makes my car feel OBESE....
 

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Malekreza11 said:
150 to the ID's is a decent amount of power. THey should be happy with 150 RMS.
Yeah, I'm very happy with the midbass. I need to play with the location of the tweeters and the cut-off slopes on the crossovers though to get the highs where I want them to be. I'm not as picky as you though ;)

Malekreza11 said:
Your diamond D5 amp has built in crossovers, so use those, dont bother with all that stuff you said, it will be a waste of time.
Sometimes it's fun to play around though. There are some quality digital filters available, and I'd be willing to bet that they'll sound better than what's built-in to my amp.

My friend actually wants me to make him a crossover. But that's an entirely different story ;)

Malekreza11 said:
I crossed over my components at 80hz, and my amps have 12db octave crossovers, so the dropoff is not as aggressive as a 24db crossover.
Thanks, I think I'll try that. Image Dynamics says that the response is as low as 45Hz in the door. Does this mean that I can be more aggressive and filter at 45 Hz? If I use a digital filter running on my computer I may be able to do approximately neg. infinity dB/decade. Or maybe not... maybe I should check what's available.... (but if I use the amp's crossovers I'll filter higher, obviously)

Actually, that made me think of a good way to test the response. Using my computer, I can produce some sine waves of varying frequencies and play them back one by one (obviously not at high gain - especially the low frequencies).
 

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I have 2 pairs of the JL Audio XR components right now driven by a 2 channel Eclipse PA series amp, and the sound is excellent. Clean and clear, with real good bass. Not thumping sub bass, but decent midbass (maybe down to 60 hz). I am real happy with them, might wanna check them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Split2nd said:
I have 2 pairs of the JL Audio XR components right now driven by a 2 channel Eclipse PA series amp, and the sound is excellent. Clean and clear, with real good bass. Not thumping sub bass, but decent midbass (maybe down to 60 hz). I am real happy with them, might wanna check them out.
JL's aren't priced too bad....

what does everyone think of Phoenix Gold's Xenon line? They've got a nice 5 channel amp as well, that they *claim* sends a clean 150 rms to 4 channels at 4 ohm, and 400 bridged at 2 ohm to the remaining channel, with an internal crossover.

i figure a 6.5' Xenon comp. set in the front doors, 7" Xenon comp. set in the rear deck with that amp and a 10' (maybe Phoenix, maybe JL, ID....) where the spare tire is could be a nice little system....
 

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I was looking into this too, and I will probably still get a sub, but DLS makes some 7x10's that put out some great bass for non-sub speakers, although they will require some custom rear deck work....it would be a space/weight saver though.......
 

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have you heard of Aura drivers? I've got 2 sets. The driver is like a little hammer that strikes/vibrates against a flat object when the lows are sent to it. It creates the vibration a real woofer would. I haven't had time, but what i was going to do was mount them against the back seat. They are about 10 lbs, weight of the magnet.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-027
 
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