Lexus IS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 94 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,459 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been searching the archives for a while, So I know that this is talked about quite a bit, So Sorry for bringing this up again.(Newbie)
Wife says no Turbo....For Now. So where do I start getting the HP gains from the car. I do not want a "ricey" exhaust note, But also know that the exhaust is going to be a key component. Any suggestion on a quite Setup? The Toyomoto headers are looking real nice too, But Ohio's emissions are pretty tough. Will it pass?
I am looking at the AEM intake, there postings of dyno results show some impressive numbers, But I read on that the CEL will come on for 2 days after installing it. Well after 2 days, then what? The FIPK would be another option, But looking into the strut brace, and I read that it will not fit. SRT is a little out of my price range right now, although it is probably the intake of choice.
What other items would give me the best results, I am sure there are tons of items I am missing here, But I am kinda new to the performace part of cars other than exhaust and intake work.
Any suggestion would be very helpful, planning on purchasing parts this winter for a spring install. Any other members from around cleveland, Very interested in meeting up with someone who might be able to help me out,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,728 Posts
if u wanna get performace gain just save ur money for turbo...ur not gunna get too far with bolt-ons...hks exhaust, hp racing headers, srt intake but if its too much get a used one/new injen...safc and get it tuned....but with that if ur stick ull run high to mid 14's on a good day..personally i dont think its worth it tho..

if money is an issue also just buy used...ull find everything ull possibly need on the member sale trade forum..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,162 Posts
What about nitrous? There isn't much discussion about it on the forums though, is there?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,453 Posts
_DAG_ said:
What about nitrous? There isn't much discussion about it on the forums though, is there?
I think cause im one of the few that uses it with consistency and by that i mean once or twice a day depending a minimum of a bottle a week though so far this weekend i got it filled friday at lunch and earlier tonight at midnight i rolled through the 24 hour filling station and got it refilled and its empty again
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,292 Posts
Installing headers will remove the two main o2 sensors, so that will fail inspection. Leave the stock headers and look into race pipe with high flow cat. Then ck out for a full cat back exhaust, like L-tuned, GReddy Evo2 or SP2, & others. Intakes, there are LMS, PLP, Injen & others. Also look into SAFC or Emanage. If you are concerned about the strut brace not fitting & rubbing, ck out PLP. I think it's pretty hard to make the IS ricey and that's just my .02. Ultimately it's your choice cause your the one who is going to like it & live with it. Keep on mod'n :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
835 Posts
replacing stock headers wont pass inspection because it will remove 2/3 of the catalytic converters, aftermarket headers make the most power though and as someone else said a bunch can be gained by safc II tuning it along with intake/exhaust , but the general consensus is that replacing the stock y-pipe yields minimal gains and just running with the stock y will retain more low end torque. the most common setup for na that ive seen from a bunch of people is intake/exhaust/header/maybe y pipe/adjustable cam gear and all safc tuned

das's wonderful y-pipe analysis
http://www.is300.net/forums/showthread.php?t=209937

and das's terrific cam gear analysis
http://www.is300.net/forums/showthread.php?t=224565&highlight=cam+gear
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,459 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
john55 said:
bunch can be gained by safc II tuning it along with intake/exhaust
I have seen this many times now, what is a safc II? How would a novice go about getting it "tuned" or tuning it myself? Again, please remember that add on computers and such are something that i have never used in the past.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
337 Posts
You can get away with headers in Ohio because there is not a visual inspection other than sticking a mirror under the car to check for a cat. They don't care how many you have as long as there is one present. For cars with OBD II ('96 and later), the e-check now consists of checking the codes in the computer. The car passes if no codes are stored -- that simple. You shouldn't have any trouble with e-check with any of the mods you mentioned as long as you keep the stock y-pipe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
835 Posts
8MYCASH said:
I have seen this many times now, what is a safc II? How would a novice go about getting it "tuned" or tuning it myself? Again, please remember that add on computers and such are something that i have never used in the past.
the Safc II is a device made by apexi to adjust the air/fuel ratio in our cars. Adding bolt ons like header intake and exhaust will create more air flow running in and out of the car which the ecu will try to compensate for by adding more fuel than neccessary and making the mixture run too rich. The safc will lean out the mixture with all the bolt ons to create more power. Installing it if ur not great at electronics can be pretty difficult so imma say have it installed and dyno tuned by a reputable place.

EDIT: sorry for speaking about other states emissions laws, im a southern california guy so no matter what we do here we're screwed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,459 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
any suggestions on where i could have it installed in cleveland area? And does anyone out there have sound clips of diffrent exhaust's installed on the IS?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,459 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
the Dragger II sounds pretty good from the video, Is this a system that would be reccomended by other? What would be another alternative.
 

·
Not Officially Back
Joined
·
12,742 Posts
Hrmm 8... let's review your goals:

1) Additional power (enough to feel)
2) No rice sound
3) No FI/etc
4) No headaches (error codes, no black soot spewing from tailpipe, etc)
5) Works with other mods (Strut bar, etc)

Here's a plan that I think meets all your goals:

1) Intake:
Get something like the PLP SFI or a black JoeZ, and a drop-in filter (TRD, K&N, etc).
Cost: $150-200
Installation: Self, 30 mins

Why?
Both intakes above retain the stock airbox... they simply replace the OEM pipe which runs between the airbox and the throttle body. The OEM pipe has a resonator and some baffling in it, which keeps the intake very quite but also slows and disrupts the airflow a bit. There are a few HP to be freed up by replacing it with a smooth pipe... and then replacing the OEM dry paper filter with an aftermarket oiled one will add some more power. In addition, staying away from an open element intake/short ram (which removes the stock airbox) will keep the noise levels down AND make sure that your intake system will work with any front strut tower bar you choose to purchase. Also, keeping the stock airbox and replacing the pipe with a black pipe makes it much less obvious any work has been done to the car... both the PLP and JoeZ intakes look like they could easily be OEM equipment... one less red flag to someone inspecting your car for emissions. Not a great pic, but see if you can point out the PLP pipe in the red car:

Header:
You really can't go wrong with a Toyomoto Gen1 (also known as HP Racing, $300) or TurboEast (also known as OBX, $300-$450). Some packages include not only the header, but also a ypipe, o2 sim, and gaskets.

The difference between the Toyomoto/HP and the Turboeast/OBX headers is theoretically that the TE headers are a "short runner" design, which is supposed to give you more power in low RPM ranges while sacrificing some power up high. The Toyo headers are a long runner design, which gives more power up high but theoretically makes less down low. We don't have any hard fact to support that, but the theory seems to be sound.

IMPORTANT:
Whatever header you get make sure it comes with an o2 simulator. When replacing the stock header it is required that you get an o2 sim to keep the CEL (check engine light) in your car from coming on. The car's ECU has numerous sensors in the exhaust flow, watching the amount of oxygen and fuel retained in the exhaust gasses to make sure all your catalytic converters are working. When you put in aftermarket headers, you remove the catalytic converters, so all of a sudden the car's ECU thinks they have all failed, and will throw error codes. An o2 simulator "simulates" a good sensor reading to make the ECU think all the cats are still in the car and functioning properly.

If you're industrious and aren't scared to turn a wrench... you can install the header and o2 sim yourself with simple mechanical and soldering skills. Call up a friend and get to work... 3-4 hours later you'll have the new header in the car. IF you don't feel like doing it... expect to pay a shop $200-300 for their trouble.

What about the Ypipe?
As I said, a lot of header packages come not only with a header, but with a Ypipe as well. The stock Ypipe has one catalytic converter in it... and most aftermarkets don't have any at all (The Turboeast Y is the only known exception... you can custom order it with a cat). For more details about the OEM vs aftermarket Ypipes, check out this link. Now.... what to do?

Sell the Ypipe! That's right. If you want to retain a cat for emissions, and keep far away from a ricey sound... replace the stock headers, but keep the stock Ypipe. Keeping that one cat in there will tone down the exhaust note quite a bit, and look good for emissions, AND keep the back end of your car clean (you'd know what I meant if you had ever driven around a car with no cats... ewww).

You can get $100-125 by selling the ypipe from the kit... if you pay a total of $300 (ToyoGen1's, shipped, from Toyomoto)... all of a sudden you've paid only ~$200 for your header setup. Take the wife to dinner with the money you saved. ;)

Exhaust:
Ask around for OPINIONS on what exhaust sounds good... keeping in mind that sound is a qualitative property. What sounds "Awesome and not too loud" to one person might be insanely loud and ricey to you... it really helps to hear a few examples in person before making a decision. Be wary of video clips you see floating around the internet... the software compression used to decrease the size of online video can severely distort the sounds you hear. Also, you might see a video or two of someone sitting with a car in neutral rev'ing the motor. Believe it or not... an exhaust can sound completely different when the engine is not under load (in neutral) vs when you're actually driving down the road. Hear the exhaust IN PERSON if at all possible.

As a matter of personal opinion, I feel you can't go wrong with a L-tuned exhaust. It's one of the quieter exhausts out there, designed by Lexus/TRD to be shipped as OEM equipment on the IS300. IT might be a little more pricey unless you can find one used... check around, you can sometimes pick one up for $300-$400.

The exhaust is easily self installed... a jack, 30 mins, and a 14mm wrench will have you sporting your new gear.

TUNING: You've got an intake, header, and exhaust... how to squeak out the last of the power? 2 things you can adjust on the car without getting too crazy: Air/fuel mix and exhaust cam timing.

Optional: Switch to an adjustable exhaust cam gear. This won't do anything too crazy to emissions or sound, and will squeak an extra ~10 bhp and btq out of the motor. More details here... my pizza is going to burn if I type too much more. :p I'd view the cam gear as optional... expect a total project cost of $300-400... parts, installation, and tuning.

Air fuel mix:
Finally... tune everything out. Of course, coming from the factory your luxury sedan is going to be running very conservative tuning... purchasing an Air/Fuel Converter (AFC) can allow you to maintain that conservative tune for 99% of driving, but give you a little more oomph when you want to mash out the pedal on the right. A popular model is the Apexxi SAFC II (it's called an "S" AFC because it's super!). An SAFC will run you $200-300... can be self installed if you can follow directions and aren't scare to solder. Expect a shop to wrangle $100-200 out of your wallet for installation...

The SAFC needs to be dyno tuned. While you might be able to "get close" by using the same settings as someone else with similar mods... the only way to ensure you get the most bang for your buck is to strap the car down to a dyno and a let a tuner have his way with her. By adding the SAFC, you gain the power to change the amount of fuel the ECU is spraying into the motor by tricking it into thinking it's got less air entering the intake than there actually is. This will cause the ECU to spray less fuel, resulting in a "leaner" mix. LEaner mixes make more power than richer ones (they burn hotter and more completely)... the downside is that if you run it too lean you'll start melting things and causing all sorts of other problems. Ask around for a local shop that might be able to help you out... and expect to part with another $100-150 for the tuning time.

Finally... most shops charge by the hour for tuning time... with a 1 hr minimum. It doesn't take a full hour to tune an SAFC or tune a cam gear... so if you decide to do both you might try to work it so both are tuned at the same time on the same day... savings: ~$100-150. Take the wife out to dinner again, and let her know how much money you're saving by making the car faster. ;)


Damn. My pizza is burnt. :blush:


Too late to rescue it now, so to review:

1) PLP Silent Flow or JoeZ Intake, $150-200 self-installed
2) TRD/K&N etc drop-in filter, $50-75 self-installed
3) Toyomoto Gen1 Header + o2 sim, $300 self-installed or $500-600 shop installed
4) Sell the YPIPE! -$100!
5) L-tuned exhaust, $300-400 self-installed
6a) Adjustable Exhaust Cam Gear Professional Installation ONLY- $350-450 parts, installation, and tuning.
7) Apexxi SAFC II, $250-300 self-installed, $450-500 shop installed, either way you need +$100-150 of dyno tuning
8) Tune the AFC and cam gear at the same time! -$150!

Total Cost: $1300 self-installed bargain-hunter - $2300 shop-installed buy everything new

What to expect:

The NEW 260-275 hp IS300. Luxurious, quiet, and clean... LEXUS DIY... The Passionate Pursuit of Horsepower.




Hope this helps. Off to buy another dang totinos. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
851 Posts
yea i second that... dragger II sounds niiccce
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,459 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok, So I get the PLP intake ( anyone got one for sale? )
Already have the K&N Filter on the way.
I am not going to have any issues running just these, correct?
Then I get the Toyomoto Headers W/ Sim keeping stock Y-pipe and Cat and Exhaust.
Still no issues, correct? Not going to suck gas or smoke?
After I add the timing gear, I should then get the SAFC to get peak HP out of the setup. Basically I am just wondering if it can all be done in steps without creating problems. If anyone has any of the parts I need, Or a good place to start picking them up at...Let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,236 Posts
You shouldn't have any problems doing it in steps. My mods have gone on the car at different times over the past year and a half. You shouldn't have any problems. You might search the web for some online aftermarket parts distributors. It's what I did--and found some good prices. Also, if the place doesn't have a physical location in your state, you don't pay sales tax--just be careful on what you pay for shipping. If I could remember where I got stuff from, I'd let you know, but I just don't remember. Google's a good place to start--just be patient with it, and you'll find good deals.

-MG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,728 Posts
be patient and get them on the sale trade forum or u see stuff on ebay occasionally...but i suggest on the sale trade forum...quality products and a fraction of the cost
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,728 Posts
i think u can still post in the sale trade forum if u wanna buy something...u prolly wont be able to post something that u wanna sell tho if ur under 30 posts tho...just be on the lookout in the sale trade forum for anything performance related and get it if it meets ur list
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
464 Posts
Nice write up Das!! Even though I knew most of the info on there, I still feel as if I learned something. +rep (at least i think, first time giving rep, so not sure if it worked) :approve:
 
1 - 20 of 94 Posts
Top